It’s important to check your car’s engine oil level, and it’s easy to top up the engine oil yourself whenever you find it’s too low, but you can’t keep doing this indefinitely. You also need to drain it completely and refill it from time to time, and install a new filter when you do. It’s an easy job to handle yourself, but what happens if you don’t change your oil regularly?

VOIDED VEHICLE WARRANTY

Failing to maintain your car according to the manufacturer’s recommendations can lead to the warranty being partially or completely voided, and these recommendations typically include regular oil changes. Check your owner’s manual for the specific frequency recommended for your car and keep track of all routine maintenance you perform.

WEAR AND TEAR OF ENGINE COMPONENTS

Over time, engine oil picks up dirt, debris, and soot, while heat and friction cause it to lose its properties and can change its viscosity. Dirty oil can clog the filter and cause low oil pressure, meaning less lubricant circulating in the system. This leads to increased wear and can easily result in premature component failure.

OVERHEATING ENGINE

Reduced lubrication also means reduced cooling and a risk of engine overheating. This can lead to leaking seals, warped cylinders, or a blown head gasket, and should not be ignored under any circumstances.

OVERALL ENGINE FAILURE

If left unchanged for too long, the engine oil won’t be able to perform its essential functions, and you could face total engine failure. That’s why it’s important to know how often an oil change is needed. The recommended intervals depend on your vehicle’s age and engine type, driving conditions, and the product you use.

So remember to perform this job on time and save yourself a lot of potential trouble down the line.

The manifold absolute pressure sensor measures the intake manifold pressure (IMP) downstream of the throttle valve to indirectly calculate – through the relationship between pressure and engine speed – the amount of air drawn in. It measures the pressure in the intake manifold (IM) and sends this information as an electrical signal to the engine control unit.

Typically, it is mounted directly on the IM. Pressure usually acts on a piezoelectric element, which then produces a corresponding output signal via an electronic circuit. This can be a PWM signal or an electrical voltage.

SYMPTOMS OF MALFUNCTIONS

It can become clogged, damaged, or contaminated. Sometimes, excessive engine heat can damage it or the vacuum lines. If it is not working properly, the computer cannot accurately calculate the air-fuel mixture, meaning the mixture is too rich or too lean. Here are some symptoms of a faulty MAP sensor:

INCREASED FUEL CONSUMPTION

A MAP sensor showing increased pressure in the intake manifold indicates a high engine load to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). This results in more fuel being injected into the engine than necessary. It also increases fuel consumption, as well as the amount of gaseous emissions into the environment. Hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide are some of the components found in smog.

Lack of performance or low engine power
A sensor indicating low IMP actually means the power load for the PCM is low. The PCM responds by decreasing the amount of fuel injected into the engine. Although you may notice fuel savings, you will also find that the car does not perform as well as before. Reducing the engine’s fuel supply increases the temperature in the combustion chamber. This raises the level of nitrogen oxides produced. Nitrogen monoxide is also a component of smog and has a negative effect on our environment.

ENGINE FAILURE WHILE DRIVING OR WHEN STARTING

If the MAP sensor is faulty, the car may not run when expected or run poorly, or in both cases, performance will be affected. For example, when trying to pass another vehicle, the car may not accelerate smoothly. A lean or very rich air-fuel mixture makes it difficult to start the vehicle. If it only starts when you press the accelerator, there is a high chance the sensor is failing.

WHAT HAPPENS IF I UNPLUG IT

It is not recommended to drive without it. Your vehicle will not run as efficiently without the sensor readings. The engine and catalytic converter could be damaged and wear out faster. If you suspect a problem, it’s a good idea to test it immediately.

HOW TO TEST A MAP SENSOR

Most are connected to the intake manifold via a hose. Ensure it is connected and in good condition. Also check if the hose is clogged or cracked. This can lead to abnormal readings. If it is properly connected to both the electrical system and the intake manifold, use a voltmeter to measure the output voltage. After reading the output voltage, compare the result with the manufacturer’s specifications. Check the intake manifold sensor connector and the system wiring. The connector may be damaged by corrosion, or some wires may be short-circuited. If the sensor is corroded, the issue may be resolved by cleaning the MAP sensor.

TESTING WITH A MULTIMETER

If you choose to test a malfunction with a multimeter, make sure to use one with at least 10 megohms. This ensures you won’t damage any other sensitive electrical devices in your car.

HOW TO CLEAN A MAP SENSOR

First, wearing a pair of rubber gloves and safety glasses, disconnect it. Using a paper towel or a soft cloth and an electrical parts cleaner, remove dirt from the sensor. Spray the cleaner inside – a few sprays are enough. Shake off any excess cleaner and let it dry completely. Take a look at the vacuum hose or the intake manifold connection. If you see more dirt or grime, clean the hose with the same product and a brush. Once everything is dry, it should be clean and can be reinstalled.

Generally, braking a car involves pressing the brake pedal. But there is another way to reduce the vehicle’s speed, which is engine braking. But how exactly does it work and what distinguishes it from regular braking? Let’s discover how you can use your vehicle’s engine as a brake.

ENGINE BRAKING

The standard way to slow down the car is to press the brake pedal. This is connected to the braking system, which then slows down the car’s wheels. There are a few different designs, but generally, this is done by applying friction to the wheels.

Engine braking works differently and involves a gasoline engine and the driver removing their foot from the accelerator pedal. When the pedal is released, fuel injection stops and the throttle is almost completely closed, leading to a significant reduction in airflow. This results in a strong vacuum in the manifold, meaning the air pressure in the engine’s intake manifold, which is lower than the surrounding atmosphere, is unable to draw in air. The cylinders struggle to compensate for this, thereby undermining the energy they provide and slowing the vehicle in the process. This does not work if the car is not in gear, as the deceleration force created is not properly transferred to the transmission, or on diesel engines, as they do not use a throttle body and do not have a comparable vacuum. Diesel engines instead require specialized brakes often called Jacobs brakes or Jake brakes and are particularly common in trucks. The overall effect of this type of braking can be enhanced by shifting the car to lower gears while releasing the accelerator pedal. Engine braking in automatic cars requires shifting to a lower mode.

IS ENGINE BRAKING BAD FOR MY CAR?

Engine braking increases the engine’s RPM. Whether this is a bad thing depends on two factors: how high the RPM increases and how long it stays at that level. Even audible RPM increases in response to engine braking do not need to be harmful as long as the RPM remains below the limit indicated by the red mark on the dashboard. Staying in this zone or at such high levels for extended periods can lead to engine overheating and strain the car’s cooling system.

The car’s transmission system also undergoes stress when shifting too quickly from a high gear to a lower one. The gears and clutch plate can experience increased wear, which can become a costly problem to fix.

These risks can be overcome with practice and experience and result in a few benefits. Most importantly, engine braking reduces wear on the brake pads and decreases the risk of the braking system overheating.

Now, if you need to stop quickly and safely, this method won’t suffice. There is no alternative but to press the brakes when an obstacle suddenly appears on the road or the driver in front of you stops abruptly. Needless to say, hitting an obstacle or another vehicle is certainly not good for your car.

WHEN IS ENGINE BRAKING A GOOD IDEA?

There are situations where engine braking is a better idea than using the brake pedal. When driving downhill over longer distances, pressing the brakes can put intense pressure on the braking system. The increased wear caused by reducing the car’s momentum as it descends a slope can damage the brake pads or similar stopping mechanisms, overheat them, and reduce the friction they provide. This leads to brake fade and can be fatal when descending a steep slope. Shifting to lower gears and engine braking can significantly slow the car, thereby reducing the need to engage the brakes and sparing them from the intense wear they would otherwise undergo.

Another time when engine braking can be useful is when driving in winter conditions. Ice and snow create dangerous road conditions that make braking by locking the wheels a hazardous undertaking. Since the roads become slippery, locking the wheels or suddenly slowing them can result in the car’s momentum taking it for a ride, sliding on the surface. Under these conditions, especially if you maintain sufficient distance from the car ahead and drive slowly, shifting to lower gears can help you avoid the dangers caused by harsh braking on an icy road.

PLACES WHERE ENGINE BRAKING IS PROHIBITED

Some places, especially in the United States or Canada, will have signs prohibiting engine braking, brake retarders, compression braking, or Jake brakes. This has less to do with safety issues and more with noise pollution. Engine braking and especially its equivalent for truck diesel engines can be very loud, and as such, many municipalities prohibit their use within their limits. The signs do not warn the driver of a danger to their car but of an exceptional danger to their wallet if they do not comply.

Conclusion

To summarize, engine braking is an alternative way to slow down your vehicle, although it cannot universally replace pressing the brake pedal and activating the standard braking system. It works by creating a vacuum that reduces the energy the car can expend for locomotion. This means of braking is slower than the regular type and does not lend itself well to emergencies. However, in certain situations, it is safer to use this form of braking when conventional brakes risk weakening, such as during a descent, or when sudden and complete stops of the wheels do not halt the car’s momentum, as on slippery roads. Overall, engine braking poses no risk to your vehicle’s well-being if performed correctly.

In a car with an internal combustion engine, the engine typically runs hot. This is a natural consequence of using rapid fuel explosions mixed with air to create the locomotion that drives the wheels. This in turn creates the need to cool the engine, and that’s where the engine cooling system comes into play. The most critical part of this system is the coolant. In the past, it was water, sometimes mixed with antifreeze in winter to prevent the engine block from becoming an ice engine block. With advances in technology, not only has plain water been abandoned as the main coolant, but sensors to determine the coolant temperature have also been developed.

WHAT IS A COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR?

Coolant temperature sensors were developed to determine the engine’s operating temperature. In short, the sensor delivers a small charge that the engine control unit can read. This charge is the result of voltage passing through the sensor’s internal resistance, the latter decreasing as the temperature increases and vice versa. Measuring the effect of the lowered or increased resistance allows the ECU to determine the measured temperature. It essentially serves the same function as an old thermometer but uses resistance instead of mercury to determine the temperature.

SYMPTOMS OF A FAULTY ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

Several issues indicate that the coolant temperature sensor is damaged. Among the most common are increased fuel consumption, difficult engine starts, and higher idle speeds. Other indicators may include black smoke coming from the exhaust pipe and cooling fans that do not activate. Often, the “Check Engine” light comes on. These problems are caused by incorrect readings, which lead the fuel system to inject inappropriate amounts of fuel and the engine running too hot because the cooling system is not prompted to engage by the control unit. In these cases, a faulty coolant temperature sensor can prevent a car from starting at all.

TROUBLESHOOTING A DEFECTIVE SENSOR

There are several ways to test a faulty coolant temperature sensor. Generally, the OBD II error codes from the ECU will be the first conclusive evidence indicating a faulty coolant temperature sensor. The codes associated with this range are from P0115 to P0119. If you see any of these codes or suspect that the coolant sensor is the source of your problems, proceed as follows:

In case you cannot start your engine, you can simulate hot and cold readings by immersing the sensor in hot and cold water. Ensure the sensor is sufficiently waterproof and avoid immersing the terminals. Use cold and barely boiling water to take your readings. Make sure your vehicle is off and the key is not in the ignition when you remove the sensor. This will prevent you from getting an electric shock.

More precise figures on the voltages and resistances to expect from your coolant temperature sensor can be found in the technical documentation or online. Refer to these numbers if you are unsure about the values received.

REPLACING A DEFECTIVE SENSOR

Unfortunately, a faulty coolant temperature sensor cannot really be repaired, and you need to buy a new one. Fortunately, they are not particularly expensive. The replacement process is quite straightforward and can be done at home:

Car rain sensors are ingenious devices that detect the amount of rain falling on a car’s windshield and then adjust the operation of the wipers accordingly. They provide an additional layer of safety in bad weather and help ensure that drivers are not caught off guard. But how do they work and can their functionality be improved? Let’s find out below.

HISTORY

Believe it or not, automotive rain sensors have been around for decades. However, the earliest sensors were not integrated into the wiper control system. Instead, they were found in some Cadillac convertibles and served to automatically close the convertible top and raise the windows in case of a downpour. The most commonly used sensors today stem from a design invented and patented by Australian Raymond Noack in 1978. Cadillac would again equip some cars with rain sensors in 1996, but this time to operate the wipers instead of the convertible top.

HOW RAIN SENSORS WORK

Most modern rain sensors use total internal reflection to detect whether raindrops are smearing the surface of the windshield. This works on the following principle: a constant beam of infrared light is projected onto the windshield from inside the car at a 45-degree angle. This beam is read by a device. The received values remain constant as long as the glass is dry. Once the windshield begins to be covered with raindrops, the way the light is reflected and refracted changes, because water behaves differently from glass. The more rain covers the windshield surface, the less light is reflected back to the sensors. This difference is measured by the aforementioned device, which then sends the appropriate signal to the wiper system to turn it on or adjust the speed at which it operates.

HOW AUTOMATIC WINDSHIELD WIPERS WORK

There is little difference in the construction of rain sensor wipers compared to ordinary wipers. The difference lies in the operation of the system that controls them. Standard wipers are activated by the driver, usually via a stalk on the steering column. This stalk also controls the intensity, i.e., the frequency and speed at which the wipers wipe the windshield.

Cars equipped with automatic systems and rain sensors may have a similar lever, but do not require driver intervention to activate. Instead, the stalk serves as a manual control to turn the wipers on or off. The system operating the wipers works by interpreting signals from the sensor to determine how heavily the windshield is covered with water, and then adjusting the speed at which the wipers sweep across the glass. Since the sensor constantly sends and receives new signals, the operation can be adjusted in response to changing conditions almost instantly. Rear windows rarely have these sensors for automatic wipers, as they are not as critical for safe driving as the front windshield and do not receive as much rain. However, some cars are equipped with sensors, especially those that activate when reversing.

DRAWBACKS

While having a system that automatically adjusts the intensity with which water is prevented from obstructing the driver’s view is convenient and allows the driver to keep one less thing in mind, there are problems that rain sensors can encounter and a few potential points of failure when using a system that relies on sensors and electronic components to function properly.

THE FUTURE OF RAIN SENSORS

Rain sensors have been available on the regular car market since at least the 1990s, but only became increasingly common around the turn of the century. Even though rain sensors are being used more and more, their use for rear windows has not taken off as much and remains an area of innovation. Similarly, combining the functionality of the rain sensor with that of a light sensor allows for a dedicated system that not only automatically activates the wipers but also turns on the headlights in dim light, fog, or darkness. This adds an extra layer of safety, especially in jurisdictions where lights are required and in conditions where it can be difficult to tell if the lights are even on. Companies such as Hella already manufacture such combined sensors. On the other hand, Tesla has experimented with using the cameras installed in its cars to replace the sensor functionality. Eliminating the need for an additional system helps reduce the complexity of future car designs.

Overall, the future of rain sensors looks promising. And if not, they will turn on and wipe away all the problems.

From life bags to separating our waste, recycling is great. So good in fact, even your engine recycles and reuses gases from the combustion process.

As climate change continues to shape the world around us, governments are taking action. For the everyday car user, this often means problems. Car manufacturers are forced to reduce exhaust gas emissions even more than they have over the past 20 years due to even stricter legislation. Diesel and gasoline manufacturers are doing everything they can to catch up with electric and hybrid cars and comply with new emission standards.

One of the ways conventional fuel-based engines attempt to achieve this is by using Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) systems. The ingenious system helps reduce the amount of nitrous oxide – one of the most harmful byproducts of the combustion process – that comes out of your car’s exhaust. On gasoline engines, the system also reduces fuel consumption when the engine is running at partial load. But what exactly is an EGR system, how does an EGR valve work, and what are common EGR problems? If you’re exhausted from searching for answers to these questions, look no further!

WHAT IS THE EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION SYSTEM?

Simply put, the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system reduces NOx emissions in internal combustion engines. The system is composed of an EGR valve, a temperature sensor, and a control unit and it is connected to both the ECU and the engine’s intake/exhaust manifolds.

The main goal is to reduce these NOx (nitrous oxide) emissions and it does this by recycling exhaust gases into the combustion chamber, where it cools the combustion. The gases that have already been used in the combustion do not participate in the next combustion process, but they still help reduce NOx as well as the temperature of the chamber itself.

Part of the reason for wanting to keep the chamber temperature low is that if the combustion temperature is high, it can lead to engine overheating and also the production of more nitrogen oxide in the engine’s combustion chamber. The combustion temperature in the combustion chamber is reduced by recirculating some of the exhaust emissions back to the fresh intake air and the lower combustion temperature results in less nitrogen oxide and an engine less likely to overheat.

HOW DOES THE SYSTEM WORK AND WHY DO YOU NEED IT?

As part of the combustion process, air enters the combustion chamber through the intake manifold and mixes with fuel. When it is compressed or ignited (depending on the system), the pressure pushes the piston down to power the engine and the exhaust gases exit through the exhaust manifold. If an engine is running at full load, that is, operating at its greatest capacity, during hard acceleration for example, this process works perfectly and all the oxygen atoms in the air that are sucked in by the intake manifold are used in the combustion process.

What normally happens is that an engine only runs at partial load. When you are simply driving on the road, idling, or slowly looking for a parking space, the engine is not running at full capacity, which we call a partial load. This becomes a problem regarding emissions. Because less fuel is injected (because the engine doesn’t need to work as hard), not all oxygen atoms are used in the combustion process. The remaining atoms combine with nitrogen (which makes up 70% of the air entering through the intake manifold) to form NOx (nitrous oxide). Unfortunately, this is a toxic air pollutant and it is exactly what the new government legislation aims to prevent. This is where EGR comes in.

In the final exhaust phase of the 4-stroke combustion process, when the exhaust gases leave the cylinder, the exhaust gases are partially rerouted internally and pumped back to the combustion chamber. Before getting there, there is an exhaust gas recirculation valve. The location of the EGR valve depends on your car’s system, but it is always located before the intake manifold so it can regulate the amount of recycled gas.

The gas already used in the combustion combines with the fresh air that is also entering the chamber and the gas that then enters the chamber is a combination of gas already used in the combustion process and fresh air. The valve regulates the amount of this gas allowed.

In collaboration with the ECU, sensors determine the load on the engine, i.e., the power required from the engine, and the amount of exhaust gas that is recirculated is calculated accordingly.

The lower the load, the more exhaust gases are recycled because there will be less fuel injected into the cylinder and thus more harmful NOx byproduct.

If the load is higher, more fresh air and oxygen are admitted and therefore less exhaust gas is recycled. Since the gas that has already been used is inert (it does not react), there is no risk of it reacting with oxygen to produce more emissions.

The temperature of the gas also impacts the combustion process and presents another advantage. Since the exhaust gases are hot, they decrease the time needed for the gas in the cylinder to reach the temperature required to exert pressure on the piston and thus eliminate “ignition delay.” In short, it makes the engine run more efficiently and quickly, providing more controlled combustion.

As mentioned above, this process also decreases the temperature of the combustion process. The compression gases raise the temperature needed to apply pressure to the piston. But the inert gases absorb this temperature because they are at a lower temperature than the compressed gas. The heat is absorbed by the recycled gases and means there are fewer NOx byproducts and less risk of engine overheating.

WHAT ARE SOME COMMON EGR PROBLEMS?

The EGR is used continuously with the engine and the system is therefore subjected to very high loads, which can cause problems, especially on high-mileage vehicles. Since the valve is the most important part of the system here, most problems are associated with it.

It is quite obvious if there is a problem with your EGR valve because your car will experience bad EGR valve symptoms like rough idling and stuttering during acceleration. Your fuel economy will also decrease due to a faulty EGR valve and you might see a check engine light on the dashboard followed by a readable code in your car’s OBD-II or a newer computer.

The likely causes of these symptoms will be a stuck EGR valve. A buildup of deposits in the EGR valve over a period of time causes the valve to let less or no recycled gas pass through, meaning your car’s performance will start to suffer (the ECU will assume the correct amount of gas for combustion is in there, as it assumes the valve is working). This happens particularly often with a diesel EGR valve. This buildup is part of the vehicle’s normal operation and can be repaired by cleaning or replacing the valve.

Cleaning the EGR valve is not as complicated as one might think and you can certainly do it yourself. Once you have located and removed your EGR valve (the location varies from vehicle to vehicle, so consult your user manual), shake it gently. If you hear something moving back and forth inside, that’s the diaphragm, meaning there’s a good chance your EGR valve is still in good condition and just needs cleaning to return to normal operation. If you don’t hear anything, your EGR valve might be stuck. This is not a definitive test, but it’s a good starting point.

If you have a newer EGR valve, it is likely electronic and therefore a wiring harness is connected to it. In this case, it is important that you avoid applying corrosive cleaners to the wiring and connectors and, of course, the engine must also be off. You will also need reliable eye protection and chemical-resistant gloves.

CLEANING AN EGR VALVE

First remove the vacuum line, which is the rubber hose connected to your EGR valve. If it is brittle, broken, frayed, damaged in any way, or otherwise seems less than perfect, replace it. Vacuum issues are the source of all kinds of engine problems, including a faulty EGR valve.

Then disconnect the electrical harness and unlock the EGR valve. If it doesn’t come off immediately when you have removed the nuts or bolts, you can loosen it by tapping it with wood or a small hammer.

Then remove the gasket and check that it is in good condition and not torn, frayed, or disintegrated. If it doesn’t look so fresh, you can install a new one at the same time.

Cleaning the valve assembly is a two-step process. First, soak the valve itself in a bowl filled with carburetor cleaner. Carburetor cleaner smells horribly bad and is unpleasant, so soak it outside or in a very well-ventilated area. Let it soak overnight if you can. If that’s not possible, move on to the next step.

Once you have let your EGR valve soak in the cleaner overnight (if possible), you need to clean its passages, openings, and surfaces with a small brush. Toothbrushes and pipe cleaners dipped in the same carburetor cleaner you used before are perfect for this. Be sure to use your protective glasses and gloves at this stage to avoid injury. You want to clean the valve as much as possible and get into as many different nooks and crannies as possible – the more black sediment you get out, the better your chances of solving the problem.

Once it is clean and free of crust, you can reinstall your clean EGR valve. Remember to reconnect your vacuum hose and electrical connections if necessary. If you are still experiencing problems after cleaning the valve, you may need to replace it.

WHAT IS AN ALTERNATOR BELT?

The car alternator is essentially a power generator that keeps the car battery charged and allows it to continuously power the main electrical components of the car. Without it, the battery would quickly discharge as it does not have the ability to power all components for long periods. The alternator is attached to the engine by brackets and bolts. It is powered by the crankshaft mechanism and driven by a belt.

In the past, car engines used several separate belts, such as V-belts, for different engine units. The alternator was driven by a separate drive belt, which wrapped around the crankshaft and alternator pulleys. Nowadays, the vast majority of vehicles use a single belt, known as a serpentine belt, to drive multiple units, including the alternator, power steering pump, water pump, and air conditioning system unit. These ribbed belts are designed to maintain as much contact with the pulleys as possible to increase the power transmitted. If the belt is damaged, these units will stop functioning, and as a result, the car’s power system could shut down.

WHEN TO REPLACE THE BELT

V-belts typically last up to 4 years or 40,000 miles; however, the new serpentine belts can last much longer and are generally easier to maintain. The average serpentine belt can last between 60,000 and 100,000 miles. Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer (EPDM) belts are more durable than standard belts and can be used for about 10 years before needing replacement.

However, several issues can arise as the alternator belt ages. For example, it may start to fray, wear out, crack, or peel, as well as become loose or misaligned. Replacing the belt in time is the best way to prevent the system from shutting down while the car is on the road and to avoid serious damage to the driven components and the car battery.

CAUSES OF ALTERNATOR BELT PROBLEMS

SYMPTOMS OF A LOOSE ALTERNATOR BELT

Here is a list of the most common symptoms to help you identify when your belt needs to be replaced due to loss of contact or tightening.

CAN I REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR/SERPENTINE BELT MYSELF?

Of course you can. As long as you have the right tools and skills, you should be able to replace this component yourself at home. However, you will also need to replace other broken or worn parts, such as the belt tensioner.

A hybrid electric vehicle is a vehicle that combines a conventional gasoline or diesel engine with one or more electric motors powered by the battery. The engine is meant to increase the propulsion power of the engine, although some hybrids can rely solely on electric power for short distances. These cars are gaining popularity due to their fuel economy benefits and their reputation for being more environmentally friendly.

Diesel hybrids are much rarer than gasoline hybrids because, despite technological advances, combining engines with electric power systems is more complex and expensive. Due to the torque characteristics of the engine, diesel units do not naturally complement traction motors in the same way as most gasoline units.

HOW DOES A HYBRID CAR WORK?

These vehicles typically feature an internal combustion engine, an electric motor, and a battery. However, there are now several types of hybrids on the market, and each type works in a slightly different way.

First, you need to know the difference between full hybrids (FHEV) and mild hybrids (MHEV). MHEV systems have smaller batteries, meaning they do not have the capacity to run solely on electricity. The electric motor is there to give the gasoline engine a boost during acceleration. Full hybrids, on the other hand, have a large enough capacity to operate in EV mode for short distances.

WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF HYBRID VEHICLES?

FAQ

In an ideal world, all road surfaces would be flat and smooth, allowing you to drive freely without worrying about your tires or your suspension system. Unfortunately, bumps, potholes, and rough roads are a daily reality for drivers. Fortunately, modern vehicles are equipped with effective damping systems that reduce vibrations and unwanted movements caused by driving on uneven surfaces. Shock absorbers play a key role in this regard.

Shock absorbers, also called suspension dampers or “shocks,” are devices that balance the compression and extension movements of the suspension springs. They also cushion the body components from shocks and reduce the intensity of vibrations. They do all this by converting kinetic energy into thermal energy. For example, when a car goes over a bump, the springs react and absorb the kinetic energy. To stabilize the car’s movement, this energy must then be dissipated. A piston is activated in the shock absorber’s cylinder, forcing the oil inside out. This oil must be forced through small openings or absorption valves, creating resistance. In turn, the resistance slows down the movement of the piston and suspension while generating heat.

These components are essential for maintaining road contact, stability, and vehicle control. If your shock absorbers are not working properly, you may notice the vehicle bouncing uncontrollably and swerving when turning. This will also negatively affect the vehicle’s braking efficiency.

TYPES OF SHOCK ABSORBERS

Nowadays, the most common suspension shock absorbers are hydraulic; however, there are many types of hydraulic devices with various designs and components. Here are three popular types of shock absorbers used in modern vehicles:

HOW LONG SHOULD THEY LAST?

Typically, you can expect your shock absorbers to last at least 4 to 5 years unless they are subjected to extreme driving conditions. The replacement interval will largely depend on the driver’s habits, the type of vehicle (e.g., light or heavy), road conditions, and the vehicle’s mileage. Off-road driving, carrying heavy loads, or frequent driving over potholes and rough surfaces will cause the components to wear out faster. It is advisable to inspect them annually or at least every 50,000 miles.

It is important to replace them when they are faulty for your own safety and that of the passengers. If you don’t, you could lose control of your vehicle the next time you encounter a bump in the road or a pothole.

SIGNS THAT THE SHOCK ABSORBERS NEED TO BE REPLACED

Car maintenance can be intimidating, even when it comes to something as basic as engine oil. Depending on your vehicle’s make and model, you need to consider the oil type, viscosity grade, service classification, and compliance with additional industry standards or specific requirements from your vehicle manufacturer. Fortunately, you don’t need to be an expert to provide your automobile with the right oil. All it takes is your owner’s manual and an understanding of some easy-to-learn symbols and numbers printed on the engine oil packaging.

Oil Types

Engine oil has come a long way since the late 19th century, when crude oil was first refined into lubricants for the steam engines of the time. Contemporary offerings now include everything from conventional formulations to synthetic oils that offer superior performance. There are also oils designed to extend the life of older engines in cars with high mileage. Here is a quick introduction to the most common types of oil currently used:

Oil Specifications

The type of oil is important, but there is more to know before topping off or changing your vehicle’s oil. Automakers and industry organizations have developed various oil standards, which appear on engine oil packaging in the form of two symbols called the “donut” and the “star.” The information provided by these symbols includes:

Protect Your Engine

Your engine is the heart and soul of your automobile, and using the right type of oil is essential for both its performance and longevity. When selecting engine oil for your car’s maintenance, always refer to the owner’s manual to determine the specific requirements for your particular vehicle.