In a car with an internal combustion engine, the engine typically runs hot. This is a natural consequence of using rapid fuel explosions mixed with air to create the locomotion that drives the wheels. This in turn creates the need to cool the engine, and that’s where the engine cooling system comes into play. The most critical part of this system is the coolant. In the past, it was water, sometimes mixed with antifreeze in winter to prevent the engine block from becoming an ice engine block. With advances in technology, not only has plain water been abandoned as the main coolant, but sensors to determine the coolant temperature have also been developed.

WHAT IS A COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR?

Coolant temperature sensors were developed to determine the engine’s operating temperature. In short, the sensor delivers a small charge that the engine control unit can read. This charge is the result of voltage passing through the sensor’s internal resistance, the latter decreasing as the temperature increases and vice versa. Measuring the effect of the lowered or increased resistance allows the ECU to determine the measured temperature. It essentially serves the same function as an old thermometer but uses resistance instead of mercury to determine the temperature.

SYMPTOMS OF A FAULTY ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

Several issues indicate that the coolant temperature sensor is damaged. Among the most common are increased fuel consumption, difficult engine starts, and higher idle speeds. Other indicators may include black smoke coming from the exhaust pipe and cooling fans that do not activate. Often, the “Check Engine” light comes on. These problems are caused by incorrect readings, which lead the fuel system to inject inappropriate amounts of fuel and the engine running too hot because the cooling system is not prompted to engage by the control unit. In these cases, a faulty coolant temperature sensor can prevent a car from starting at all.

TROUBLESHOOTING A DEFECTIVE SENSOR

There are several ways to test a faulty coolant temperature sensor. Generally, the OBD II error codes from the ECU will be the first conclusive evidence indicating a faulty coolant temperature sensor. The codes associated with this range are from P0115 to P0119. If you see any of these codes or suspect that the coolant sensor is the source of your problems, proceed as follows:

In case you cannot start your engine, you can simulate hot and cold readings by immersing the sensor in hot and cold water. Ensure the sensor is sufficiently waterproof and avoid immersing the terminals. Use cold and barely boiling water to take your readings. Make sure your vehicle is off and the key is not in the ignition when you remove the sensor. This will prevent you from getting an electric shock.

More precise figures on the voltages and resistances to expect from your coolant temperature sensor can be found in the technical documentation or online. Refer to these numbers if you are unsure about the values received.

REPLACING A DEFECTIVE SENSOR

Unfortunately, a faulty coolant temperature sensor cannot really be repaired, and you need to buy a new one. Fortunately, they are not particularly expensive. The replacement process is quite straightforward and can be done at home:

Car rain sensors are ingenious devices that detect the amount of rain falling on a car’s windshield and then adjust the operation of the wipers accordingly. They provide an additional layer of safety in bad weather and help ensure that drivers are not caught off guard. But how do they work and can their functionality be improved? Let’s find out below.

HISTORY

Believe it or not, automotive rain sensors have been around for decades. However, the earliest sensors were not integrated into the wiper control system. Instead, they were found in some Cadillac convertibles and served to automatically close the convertible top and raise the windows in case of a downpour. The most commonly used sensors today stem from a design invented and patented by Australian Raymond Noack in 1978. Cadillac would again equip some cars with rain sensors in 1996, but this time to operate the wipers instead of the convertible top.

HOW RAIN SENSORS WORK

Most modern rain sensors use total internal reflection to detect whether raindrops are smearing the surface of the windshield. This works on the following principle: a constant beam of infrared light is projected onto the windshield from inside the car at a 45-degree angle. This beam is read by a device. The received values remain constant as long as the glass is dry. Once the windshield begins to be covered with raindrops, the way the light is reflected and refracted changes, because water behaves differently from glass. The more rain covers the windshield surface, the less light is reflected back to the sensors. This difference is measured by the aforementioned device, which then sends the appropriate signal to the wiper system to turn it on or adjust the speed at which it operates.

HOW AUTOMATIC WINDSHIELD WIPERS WORK

There is little difference in the construction of rain sensor wipers compared to ordinary wipers. The difference lies in the operation of the system that controls them. Standard wipers are activated by the driver, usually via a stalk on the steering column. This stalk also controls the intensity, i.e., the frequency and speed at which the wipers wipe the windshield.

Cars equipped with automatic systems and rain sensors may have a similar lever, but do not require driver intervention to activate. Instead, the stalk serves as a manual control to turn the wipers on or off. The system operating the wipers works by interpreting signals from the sensor to determine how heavily the windshield is covered with water, and then adjusting the speed at which the wipers sweep across the glass. Since the sensor constantly sends and receives new signals, the operation can be adjusted in response to changing conditions almost instantly. Rear windows rarely have these sensors for automatic wipers, as they are not as critical for safe driving as the front windshield and do not receive as much rain. However, some cars are equipped with sensors, especially those that activate when reversing.

DRAWBACKS

While having a system that automatically adjusts the intensity with which water is prevented from obstructing the driver’s view is convenient and allows the driver to keep one less thing in mind, there are problems that rain sensors can encounter and a few potential points of failure when using a system that relies on sensors and electronic components to function properly.

THE FUTURE OF RAIN SENSORS

Rain sensors have been available on the regular car market since at least the 1990s, but only became increasingly common around the turn of the century. Even though rain sensors are being used more and more, their use for rear windows has not taken off as much and remains an area of innovation. Similarly, combining the functionality of the rain sensor with that of a light sensor allows for a dedicated system that not only automatically activates the wipers but also turns on the headlights in dim light, fog, or darkness. This adds an extra layer of safety, especially in jurisdictions where lights are required and in conditions where it can be difficult to tell if the lights are even on. Companies such as Hella already manufacture such combined sensors. On the other hand, Tesla has experimented with using the cameras installed in its cars to replace the sensor functionality. Eliminating the need for an additional system helps reduce the complexity of future car designs.

Overall, the future of rain sensors looks promising. And if not, they will turn on and wipe away all the problems.

From life bags to separating our waste, recycling is great. So good in fact, even your engine recycles and reuses gases from the combustion process.

As climate change continues to shape the world around us, governments are taking action. For the everyday car user, this often means problems. Car manufacturers are forced to reduce exhaust gas emissions even more than they have over the past 20 years due to even stricter legislation. Diesel and gasoline manufacturers are doing everything they can to catch up with electric and hybrid cars and comply with new emission standards.

One of the ways conventional fuel-based engines attempt to achieve this is by using Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) systems. The ingenious system helps reduce the amount of nitrous oxide – one of the most harmful byproducts of the combustion process – that comes out of your car’s exhaust. On gasoline engines, the system also reduces fuel consumption when the engine is running at partial load. But what exactly is an EGR system, how does an EGR valve work, and what are common EGR problems? If you’re exhausted from searching for answers to these questions, look no further!

WHAT IS THE EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION SYSTEM?

Simply put, the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system reduces NOx emissions in internal combustion engines. The system is composed of an EGR valve, a temperature sensor, and a control unit and it is connected to both the ECU and the engine’s intake/exhaust manifolds.

The main goal is to reduce these NOx (nitrous oxide) emissions and it does this by recycling exhaust gases into the combustion chamber, where it cools the combustion. The gases that have already been used in the combustion do not participate in the next combustion process, but they still help reduce NOx as well as the temperature of the chamber itself.

Part of the reason for wanting to keep the chamber temperature low is that if the combustion temperature is high, it can lead to engine overheating and also the production of more nitrogen oxide in the engine’s combustion chamber. The combustion temperature in the combustion chamber is reduced by recirculating some of the exhaust emissions back to the fresh intake air and the lower combustion temperature results in less nitrogen oxide and an engine less likely to overheat.

HOW DOES THE SYSTEM WORK AND WHY DO YOU NEED IT?

As part of the combustion process, air enters the combustion chamber through the intake manifold and mixes with fuel. When it is compressed or ignited (depending on the system), the pressure pushes the piston down to power the engine and the exhaust gases exit through the exhaust manifold. If an engine is running at full load, that is, operating at its greatest capacity, during hard acceleration for example, this process works perfectly and all the oxygen atoms in the air that are sucked in by the intake manifold are used in the combustion process.

What normally happens is that an engine only runs at partial load. When you are simply driving on the road, idling, or slowly looking for a parking space, the engine is not running at full capacity, which we call a partial load. This becomes a problem regarding emissions. Because less fuel is injected (because the engine doesn’t need to work as hard), not all oxygen atoms are used in the combustion process. The remaining atoms combine with nitrogen (which makes up 70% of the air entering through the intake manifold) to form NOx (nitrous oxide). Unfortunately, this is a toxic air pollutant and it is exactly what the new government legislation aims to prevent. This is where EGR comes in.

In the final exhaust phase of the 4-stroke combustion process, when the exhaust gases leave the cylinder, the exhaust gases are partially rerouted internally and pumped back to the combustion chamber. Before getting there, there is an exhaust gas recirculation valve. The location of the EGR valve depends on your car’s system, but it is always located before the intake manifold so it can regulate the amount of recycled gas.

The gas already used in the combustion combines with the fresh air that is also entering the chamber and the gas that then enters the chamber is a combination of gas already used in the combustion process and fresh air. The valve regulates the amount of this gas allowed.

In collaboration with the ECU, sensors determine the load on the engine, i.e., the power required from the engine, and the amount of exhaust gas that is recirculated is calculated accordingly.

The lower the load, the more exhaust gases are recycled because there will be less fuel injected into the cylinder and thus more harmful NOx byproduct.

If the load is higher, more fresh air and oxygen are admitted and therefore less exhaust gas is recycled. Since the gas that has already been used is inert (it does not react), there is no risk of it reacting with oxygen to produce more emissions.

The temperature of the gas also impacts the combustion process and presents another advantage. Since the exhaust gases are hot, they decrease the time needed for the gas in the cylinder to reach the temperature required to exert pressure on the piston and thus eliminate “ignition delay.” In short, it makes the engine run more efficiently and quickly, providing more controlled combustion.

As mentioned above, this process also decreases the temperature of the combustion process. The compression gases raise the temperature needed to apply pressure to the piston. But the inert gases absorb this temperature because they are at a lower temperature than the compressed gas. The heat is absorbed by the recycled gases and means there are fewer NOx byproducts and less risk of engine overheating.

WHAT ARE SOME COMMON EGR PROBLEMS?

The EGR is used continuously with the engine and the system is therefore subjected to very high loads, which can cause problems, especially on high-mileage vehicles. Since the valve is the most important part of the system here, most problems are associated with it.

It is quite obvious if there is a problem with your EGR valve because your car will experience bad EGR valve symptoms like rough idling and stuttering during acceleration. Your fuel economy will also decrease due to a faulty EGR valve and you might see a check engine light on the dashboard followed by a readable code in your car’s OBD-II or a newer computer.

The likely causes of these symptoms will be a stuck EGR valve. A buildup of deposits in the EGR valve over a period of time causes the valve to let less or no recycled gas pass through, meaning your car’s performance will start to suffer (the ECU will assume the correct amount of gas for combustion is in there, as it assumes the valve is working). This happens particularly often with a diesel EGR valve. This buildup is part of the vehicle’s normal operation and can be repaired by cleaning or replacing the valve.

Cleaning the EGR valve is not as complicated as one might think and you can certainly do it yourself. Once you have located and removed your EGR valve (the location varies from vehicle to vehicle, so consult your user manual), shake it gently. If you hear something moving back and forth inside, that’s the diaphragm, meaning there’s a good chance your EGR valve is still in good condition and just needs cleaning to return to normal operation. If you don’t hear anything, your EGR valve might be stuck. This is not a definitive test, but it’s a good starting point.

If you have a newer EGR valve, it is likely electronic and therefore a wiring harness is connected to it. In this case, it is important that you avoid applying corrosive cleaners to the wiring and connectors and, of course, the engine must also be off. You will also need reliable eye protection and chemical-resistant gloves.

CLEANING AN EGR VALVE

First remove the vacuum line, which is the rubber hose connected to your EGR valve. If it is brittle, broken, frayed, damaged in any way, or otherwise seems less than perfect, replace it. Vacuum issues are the source of all kinds of engine problems, including a faulty EGR valve.

Then disconnect the electrical harness and unlock the EGR valve. If it doesn’t come off immediately when you have removed the nuts or bolts, you can loosen it by tapping it with wood or a small hammer.

Then remove the gasket and check that it is in good condition and not torn, frayed, or disintegrated. If it doesn’t look so fresh, you can install a new one at the same time.

Cleaning the valve assembly is a two-step process. First, soak the valve itself in a bowl filled with carburetor cleaner. Carburetor cleaner smells horribly bad and is unpleasant, so soak it outside or in a very well-ventilated area. Let it soak overnight if you can. If that’s not possible, move on to the next step.

Once you have let your EGR valve soak in the cleaner overnight (if possible), you need to clean its passages, openings, and surfaces with a small brush. Toothbrushes and pipe cleaners dipped in the same carburetor cleaner you used before are perfect for this. Be sure to use your protective glasses and gloves at this stage to avoid injury. You want to clean the valve as much as possible and get into as many different nooks and crannies as possible – the more black sediment you get out, the better your chances of solving the problem.

Once it is clean and free of crust, you can reinstall your clean EGR valve. Remember to reconnect your vacuum hose and electrical connections if necessary. If you are still experiencing problems after cleaning the valve, you may need to replace it.

WHAT IS AN ALTERNATOR BELT?

The car alternator is essentially a power generator that keeps the car battery charged and allows it to continuously power the main electrical components of the car. Without it, the battery would quickly discharge as it does not have the ability to power all components for long periods. The alternator is attached to the engine by brackets and bolts. It is powered by the crankshaft mechanism and driven by a belt.

In the past, car engines used several separate belts, such as V-belts, for different engine units. The alternator was driven by a separate drive belt, which wrapped around the crankshaft and alternator pulleys. Nowadays, the vast majority of vehicles use a single belt, known as a serpentine belt, to drive multiple units, including the alternator, power steering pump, water pump, and air conditioning system unit. These ribbed belts are designed to maintain as much contact with the pulleys as possible to increase the power transmitted. If the belt is damaged, these units will stop functioning, and as a result, the car’s power system could shut down.

WHEN TO REPLACE THE BELT

V-belts typically last up to 4 years or 40,000 miles; however, the new serpentine belts can last much longer and are generally easier to maintain. The average serpentine belt can last between 60,000 and 100,000 miles. Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer (EPDM) belts are more durable than standard belts and can be used for about 10 years before needing replacement.

However, several issues can arise as the alternator belt ages. For example, it may start to fray, wear out, crack, or peel, as well as become loose or misaligned. Replacing the belt in time is the best way to prevent the system from shutting down while the car is on the road and to avoid serious damage to the driven components and the car battery.

CAUSES OF ALTERNATOR BELT PROBLEMS

SYMPTOMS OF A LOOSE ALTERNATOR BELT

Here is a list of the most common symptoms to help you identify when your belt needs to be replaced due to loss of contact or tightening.

CAN I REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR/SERPENTINE BELT MYSELF?

Of course you can. As long as you have the right tools and skills, you should be able to replace this component yourself at home. However, you will also need to replace other broken or worn parts, such as the belt tensioner.

A hybrid electric vehicle is a vehicle that combines a conventional gasoline or diesel engine with one or more electric motors powered by the battery. The engine is meant to increase the propulsion power of the engine, although some hybrids can rely solely on electric power for short distances. These cars are gaining popularity due to their fuel economy benefits and their reputation for being more environmentally friendly.

Diesel hybrids are much rarer than gasoline hybrids because, despite technological advances, combining engines with electric power systems is more complex and expensive. Due to the torque characteristics of the engine, diesel units do not naturally complement traction motors in the same way as most gasoline units.

HOW DOES A HYBRID CAR WORK?

These vehicles typically feature an internal combustion engine, an electric motor, and a battery. However, there are now several types of hybrids on the market, and each type works in a slightly different way.

First, you need to know the difference between full hybrids (FHEV) and mild hybrids (MHEV). MHEV systems have smaller batteries, meaning they do not have the capacity to run solely on electricity. The electric motor is there to give the gasoline engine a boost during acceleration. Full hybrids, on the other hand, have a large enough capacity to operate in EV mode for short distances.

WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF HYBRID VEHICLES?

FAQ

In an ideal world, all road surfaces would be flat and smooth, allowing you to drive freely without worrying about your tires or your suspension system. Unfortunately, bumps, potholes, and rough roads are a daily reality for drivers. Fortunately, modern vehicles are equipped with effective damping systems that reduce vibrations and unwanted movements caused by driving on uneven surfaces. Shock absorbers play a key role in this regard.

Shock absorbers, also called suspension dampers or “shocks,” are devices that balance the compression and extension movements of the suspension springs. They also cushion the body components from shocks and reduce the intensity of vibrations. They do all this by converting kinetic energy into thermal energy. For example, when a car goes over a bump, the springs react and absorb the kinetic energy. To stabilize the car’s movement, this energy must then be dissipated. A piston is activated in the shock absorber’s cylinder, forcing the oil inside out. This oil must be forced through small openings or absorption valves, creating resistance. In turn, the resistance slows down the movement of the piston and suspension while generating heat.

These components are essential for maintaining road contact, stability, and vehicle control. If your shock absorbers are not working properly, you may notice the vehicle bouncing uncontrollably and swerving when turning. This will also negatively affect the vehicle’s braking efficiency.

TYPES OF SHOCK ABSORBERS

Nowadays, the most common suspension shock absorbers are hydraulic; however, there are many types of hydraulic devices with various designs and components. Here are three popular types of shock absorbers used in modern vehicles:

HOW LONG SHOULD THEY LAST?

Typically, you can expect your shock absorbers to last at least 4 to 5 years unless they are subjected to extreme driving conditions. The replacement interval will largely depend on the driver’s habits, the type of vehicle (e.g., light or heavy), road conditions, and the vehicle’s mileage. Off-road driving, carrying heavy loads, or frequent driving over potholes and rough surfaces will cause the components to wear out faster. It is advisable to inspect them annually or at least every 50,000 miles.

It is important to replace them when they are faulty for your own safety and that of the passengers. If you don’t, you could lose control of your vehicle the next time you encounter a bump in the road or a pothole.

SIGNS THAT THE SHOCK ABSORBERS NEED TO BE REPLACED

Car maintenance can be intimidating, even when it comes to something as basic as engine oil. Depending on your vehicle’s make and model, you need to consider the oil type, viscosity grade, service classification, and compliance with additional industry standards or specific requirements from your vehicle manufacturer. Fortunately, you don’t need to be an expert to provide your automobile with the right oil. All it takes is your owner’s manual and an understanding of some easy-to-learn symbols and numbers printed on the engine oil packaging.

Oil Types

Engine oil has come a long way since the late 19th century, when crude oil was first refined into lubricants for the steam engines of the time. Contemporary offerings now include everything from conventional formulations to synthetic oils that offer superior performance. There are also oils designed to extend the life of older engines in cars with high mileage. Here is a quick introduction to the most common types of oil currently used:

Oil Specifications

The type of oil is important, but there is more to know before topping off or changing your vehicle’s oil. Automakers and industry organizations have developed various oil standards, which appear on engine oil packaging in the form of two symbols called the “donut” and the “star.” The information provided by these symbols includes:

Protect Your Engine

Your engine is the heart and soul of your automobile, and using the right type of oil is essential for both its performance and longevity. When selecting engine oil for your car’s maintenance, always refer to the owner’s manual to determine the specific requirements for your particular vehicle.

After the engine, an automatic transmission is the most complex and expensive mechanical component in your car. To function properly, an automatic transmission must be filled with a specific fluid that is maintained at a precise level. Automatic transmission fluids serve several purposes. They transmit power, operate hydraulic systems, provide lubrication, preserve seal flexibility, protect internal transmission components, and act as cooling fluids. To maintain these capabilities, the automatic transmission fluid level must be checked regularly, and the fluid may need to be replaced periodically at the intervals recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

Modern automatic transmission fluids are carefully formulated chemical compounds and are often developed for specific transmission designs. While some companies market “universal” transmission fluids, most car manufacturers have proprietary specifications for the fluids used in their automatic transmissions. Failure to use the appropriate fluid can affect shift quality, reduce transmission lifespan, and void your car’s warranty. When refilling or changing transmission fluid, ensure that the product used by the auto repair shop meets the requirements outlined in your owner’s manual.

Automatic transmissions have become marvels of precision and durability in recent years. Many recent model cars use “lifetime” synthetic transmission fluids and have sealed transmissions without a dipstick to check the fluid level. As long as the transmission does not leak, the fluid will remain at the correct level. Even some cars with dipsticks use “lifetime” fluids that never need changing or are only changed at extended intervals that may exceed 100,000 miles.

On vehicles equipped with dipsticks, the automatic transmission fluid level should be checked monthly with the transmission at full operating temperature and the engine idling. Approximately 15 minutes of driving is usually needed to fully warm up the transmission. You can check the fluid level in six easy steps:

1. Stop the vehicle on a level surface, set the parking brake, and let the engine idle.

2. Press the brake pedal and move the gear selector through all gear positions, pausing for a few seconds in each. Then place the transmission in park or neutral as specified in your owner’s manual.

3. Open the hood, locate the transmission dipstick, and carefully remove it, making sure to avoid any hot or moving engine parts.

4. Wipe the dipstick with a cloth and note the level marks near its end. Some dipsticks have a mark for FULL and another for ADD, some have small holes indicating maximum and minimum oil levels, and some have crosshatched marks to designate the acceptable fluid range.

5. Insert the dipstick fully into its tube, then remove it and read the level.

6. If the fluid level is at or below the ADD mark, add enough fluid to bring the level up to the FULL mark. Do not overfill. Typically, the distance between the ADD and FULL marks equals one pint of fluid.

When checking the fluid level, also inspect its color. New automatic transmission fluid has a red or pink tint. Red-amber to medium brown fluid has been in service for some time, but such color change is normal and is not a reason for immediate fluid replacement. However, dark brown or black color is a sign of deteriorated fluid that should be changed. Fluids that appear milky or have a burnt smell indicate more serious transmission problems that require diagnosis by a qualified auto mechanic as soon as possible.

As mentioned earlier, many newer cars never need transmission fluid changes, or changes are only needed at extended intervals. However, millions of cars on the road still require regular transmission fluid replacement. The recommended intervals for this maintenance vary depending on the car’s factory maintenance schedule and whether the vehicle is used in normal or severe service. In some cases, the transmission contains a filter that is changed along with the fluid. Consult your owner’s manual to identify the appropriate intervals for your car and the type of driving you do.

When having transmission fluid changed, ensure that the auto repair shop uses replacement fluid that meets the car manufacturer’s specifications. It is also very important that the transmission is not overfilled, as this would cause fluid foaming that could lead to further transmission problems.

Problems with your transmission are often very expensive and something you want to avoid. Here are the most common issues and problems you might encounter with your automatic transmission.

The most important and expensive components of your vehicle are the engine and the transmission. But while many people know what to look for to diagnose an engine problem, the transmission doesn’t always get the same attention.

In this guide, we will break down the ten most common transmission problems before explaining how to troubleshoot and fix some of the simpler ones.

The most common transmission problems are leaking seals, a worn-out clutch, or old transmission fluid. Faulty components inside the transmission, such as bad shift solenoids, broken transmission bands, or a faulty torque converter, are also very common.

Here is a more detailed list of the most common transmission issues and problems:

10 Most Common Transmission Problems

1. Leaking Seals

Just like your engine, oil fills your transmission to keep everything running smoothly. This transmission fluid is held inside by seals and gaskets, and as your transmission ages, these seals and gaskets can wear out. If this happens, you will have a leak and will need to perform repairs.

2. Worn Out Clutch

If you drive a vehicle with a manual transmission, one of the most common problems you will encounter is a worn-out clutch. Replacing a clutch is neither easy nor cheap, but it is necessary to get things working as they should.

3. Old Transmission Fluid/Filter

Although you don’t need to change your transmission fluid as often as your engine oil, it doesn’t last forever. Check your vehicle’s owner’s manual to see how often you should change your transmission fluid.

4. Broken Sensor

Modern vehicles have sensors everywhere, and that includes the transmission. A common issue is that as a vehicle ages, these sensors start to wear out and fail. When this happens, you will need to replace them.

5. Slipping Gears

Whether you drive a transmission

6. Worn Torque Converter

If you have an automatic transmission, you have a torque converter. Although a torque converter has a fairly decent lifespan, it is not uncommon for it to wear out. If this happens, you will hear grinding noises when your transmission shifts gears, and your transmission will need to be rebuilt.

7. Faulty Shift Solenoids

Solenoids usually last longer than sensors, but if your transmission is old enough or you are simply unlucky, you might find that your transmission has a faulty solenoid. Solenoids are more expensive than sensors, so be prepared to spend a bit more on repairs.

8. Overheating Transmission

Although an overheating transmission is a sign of a deeper problem, it might be the only thing you notice. There are tons of reasons why your transmission might overheat. From stuck gears to old transmission fluid, you will need to troubleshoot your transmission carefully to find out what is going on.

9. Broken Transmission Bands

Transmission bands hold different gears together to provide the correct output ratio. But when these bands start to break, you will find that your transmission simply doesn’t have the gears it should have.

This is a problem with automatic transmissions, so what you will notice is a transmission that stays stuck at higher or lower RPMs and doesn’t accelerate as it should.

10. Rough Shifting

Rough shifting is another one of those problems that can be caused by a litany of issues. There could be stuck gears, worn bands, or a dozen other problems. The only way to know for sure is to take apart your transmission and rebuild it.

Basic Transmission Troubleshooting

Although there are many problems that can lead to a faulty transmission, if you know what to look for, you can catch issues early and save a ton of money.

That’s why we’ve taken the time to help you troubleshoot three of the common problems here. This way, you can fix issues while they are still small.

Leaks

Troubleshooting a leak is one of the simplest tasks. Look for the highest point of a leak; gravity pulls the fluid downward, so once you find the top, you have located the leak. If it’s coming from the bottom, it’s likely the transmission pan, but it’s probably a front seal if it’s coming from the front.

Find the leak, then assess how complicated and expensive the repairs will be.

Rough Shifting/Slipping Out of Gear

When you notice that your transmission is having trouble engaging and disengaging gears, the best thing to do is flush the transmission fluid and add some anti-slip additive to get things working like new.

Although this doesn’t always work, if you catch the problem early enough, it might be all you need to get another 40,000 to 50,000 miles out of your transmission before needing a rebuild.

Unable to Get Into Gear

When your transmission can’t engage or disengage a specific gear, it could be due to a litany of problems. Start by connecting an OBD II scanner to your vehicle and see if the TCM is generating any codes. If so, your problem might be as simple as a faulty sensor or solenoid.

However, if you don’t have any TCM codes, there is likely something serious wrong with your transmission. It could be broken bands or stuck gears. In any case, you will need a rebuild. Transmission rebuilds are not cheap, so you might want to start saving now.

Summary

There are few components as critical as your transmission. That’s why you need to have a thorough understanding of how it works and keep an eye out for when things aren’t working as they should.

Because even though transmission repairs can be expensive, you can often catch problems early if you know what to look for. I hope this guide has given you everything you need to know to diagnose your transmission and get things working as they should.

This way, the next time you hit the road, you can have peace of mind knowing that your vehicle will perform as it’s supposed to.

The modern internal combustion engine car is equipped with a turbocharger or even a supercharger. These are intended to improve the energy efficiency and performance of standard gasoline or diesel cars. With the advent of modern technology, the automotive industry is beginning to introduce electric turbos. But what are these strange new devices? Read on and find out what ingenious technology lies behind this name.

WHAT IS A CONVENTIONAL TURBOCHARGER?

The standard turbocharger, or turbo, is a device that increases the power of an internal combustion engine through the forced induction of compressed air. Since an internal combustion engine generates locomotion by burning a fuel-air mixture, the rate at which this mixture is burned is a major factor in determining the engine’s power. A faster burn rate results in a more powerful operation. To achieve this, the turbo is powered by hot exhaust gases. This results in the rotation of a turbine that compresses the air which is ultimately delivered to the engine.

A supercharger works in a similar way, but the method by which it is powered is different. While a turbo is powered by hot exhaust gases, the supercharger is driven directly by the engine. This results in distinct advantages and disadvantages for both variants: turbochargers take time to start, as they depend on exhaust gases to operate, while superchargers are less fuel-efficient but increase engine power from the moment the engine starts. This tendency of turbos to take time before becoming fully functional is called turbo lag.

WHAT IS AN ELECTRIC TURBOCHARGER?

An electric turbo attempts to offer the best of both worlds: the brutal efficiency of a fully active turbocharger coupled with the elimination of the annoying turbo lag that a supercharger brings to the table. Unsurprisingly, their basic functionality is essentially identical to that of a standard turbo: just like its non-electric counterpart, the E-turbo is powered by hot exhaust gases generated by the engine while the vehicle is being driven. Unlike the conventional turbo, however, it also includes either a small air compressor which in turn is powered by an electric motor, or an electric motor to spin the turbines when there is not enough exhaust gas available. This provides the necessary compressed air to boost engine power before the traditional turbocharger is warmed up and functional.

ADVANTAGES OF ELECTRIC TURBOCHARGERS

The advantages of an E-turbo are clearly visible: it eliminates turbo lag by providing the air input normally supplied by a turbocharger once it is warmed up. Unlike a supercharger, electric turbos are not active all the time and therefore do not reduce engine power at all while providing the same level of torque regardless of engine speed. While the power increase gained from using a supercharger outweighs the cost of engine power to keep it running, an electric turbocharger can avoid undermining the engine’s power to stay active in the first place, thus increasing the power gained by activating the device. They also have the advantage of being able to be deactivated when not needed, for example during long journeys at constant speed. This allows the engine to operate at a higher efficiency and save fuel in the long run. By now, one could argue that the advantages of an electric turbo can just as well be achieved with a twin-charging system, i.e., a combination of turbo and supercharging. While this may be the case, an E-turbo takes up much less space and achieves the effect of the supercharger part of the system without any power loss. Electric turbos also reduce overall emissions and have the potential to use exhaust gases to power generators when they are not needed.

DISADVANTAGES OF ELECTRIC TURBOCHARGERS

Electric turbos are still very new, and not all the flaws of this cutting-edge technology have been resolved. For one, the electric turbo still aims to increase a vehicle’s performance. A reduction in fuel consumption or emissions is not its primary goal, so it will likely lead to an increase in both, even if not as much as with a conventional turbo or supercharger. Furthermore, given its status as an emerging technology, electric supercharging will remain relatively expensive for some time. Its reliability is also largely untested, given the lack of data, which in turn is the result of limited application. It could also be argued that electric turbochargers are increasingly unnecessary given that the writing is on the wall for fossil fuels and thus for internal combustion engines that use gasoline or diesel.

INSTALLING AN ELECTRIC TURBOCHARGER

If you are wondering how to install an electric turbocharger, you should be wary of the nature of many private offers online. In many cases, these electric turbos are little more than fans that provide little or no extra power. Instead, rely on trusted manufacturers and opt for the installation of these devices by experts in a garage sufficiently equipped to maintain this type of technology. If you intend to install the device yourself, make sure you have the necessary experience and read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully to avoid any mistakes.