Regular oil changes are essential to prolong the life of any engine. Fortunately, changing a vehicle’s oil is generally a simple matter that usually takes no more than 30 minutes.

Occasionally, however, an oil change can present unexpected difficulties. Perhaps the most significant of these difficulties are those arising from a stripped (or rounded) drain plug. Since removing the drain plug is essential to completing any oil change, such problems can halt even the best efforts.

Furthermore, a stripped drain plug can lead to oil loss if the plug cannot be properly tightened. This leaking oil can often be seen beneath an engine’s oil pan. In such cases, proper repair will be necessary to avoid significant oil loss and potential engine damage.

Read on to learn more about how to remove a stripped drain plug, should you find yourself facing such problems in the future.

How Does an Oil Drain Plug Get Stripped?

The term “stripped” oil drain plug (or oil pan plug) is generally used to describe one of two conditions. These problems differ from each other in their context, as well as in the possible means of repair.

The first of these conditions involves damage to the threads of an oil pan’s drain hole. This damage prevents a drain plug (or oil pan bolt) from being properly tightened.

This condition often results in continuous oil leaks and must be repaired at the first available opportunity. Failure to correct these issues can damage the engine due to excessive oil loss.

Stripping of a drain plug’s or oil pan’s threads usually results from prior over-tightening. All drain plugs are subject to a specific torque at which they must be tightened upon reinstallation. If this torque value is ignored and over-tightening occurs, it can damage the threads of a drain plug or oil drain pan.

The second condition often described as a “stripped drain plug” actually refers to the rounding of a drain plug’s hex head. This prevents a wrench or socket from being properly applied to a drain plug during removal.

As a result, it is impossible to drain the old oil from an engine’s pan. Ultimately, this problem must be corrected before an oil change can be performed.

The most common cause of a rounded drain plug is the use of an improperly sized wrench or socket during prior removal/installation. This often occurs when a standard socket is used in a metric application or vice versa.

Once the head of a drain plug begins to round, further rounding during successive oil changes is imminent.

How to Remove a Stripped (or Rounded) Oil Drain Plug

As mentioned earlier, the term “stripped drain plug” is often used to describe two different conditions. The procedure for remedying each of these two problems also differs. However, with patience and a steady hand, one can take control of either scenario.

Drain Plug With Stripped Threads

A drain plug with stripped threads can often be removed simply by turning it counterclockwise with a wrench or socket. However, it may be necessary to provide slight outward force on the plug itself to engage the remaining threads.

This can usually be accomplished using a flathead screwdriver, wedged between the external surface of the oil pan and the underside of the drain plug’s head.

If the head of the stripped drain plug is flush with your engine’s oil pan body, a channel lock pliers can be used to turn the plug counterclockwise while pulling outward. In most cases, this method will prove sufficient for removal, even under less-than-ideal circumstances.

Drain Plug With a Rounded Head

Removing a drain plug with a rounded head requires a totally different strategy. Removing a drain plug in this condition usually requires the use of a special socket called a bolt extractor, which features internal spiral grooves. Irwin Tools makes one of the best sets and it doesn’t cost a fortune.

A socket of this nature can be lightly tapped onto the head of such a drain plug using an impact hammer. This causes the socket’s internal grooves to bite into the head of a rounded bolt, thus simplifying the extraction process.

How to Repair a Stripped Oil Pan Drain Hole

In some cases, an oil pan’s drain hole can become stripped, making it impossible to tighten your engine’s drain plug as desired. This can be quite troubling, leaving many motorists worried about what seems to be an irreconcilable problem.

Fortunately, such problems can often be resolved using a quality oil drain plug repair kit, like those made by Lisle or Supercrazy Tools.

Oil drain plug repair kits focus on removing any remaining damaged threads from an oil pan’s drain hole, before re-threading this drain hole to accept a slightly oversized plug.

When performed correctly, this procedure allows for the installation of a new drain plug in the same manner as the vehicle’s original plug. This eliminates the need to purchase and install a replacement oil pan, thus saving a lot of time and money.

How to Use an Oil Drain Plug Repair Kit

The general steps for using an oil drain plug repair kit are as follows.

#1 – Remove Damaged Threads

Many oil drain plug repair kits feature a boring drill bit, which removes the remnants of any pre-existing threading. This provides a renewed surface, which can be tapped to accept a new drain plug.

#2 – Tap New Threads

A special-sized tap will then be carefully screwed into the oil pan’s drain hole. This cuts new threads, to which an oversized drain plug will grip. In most cases, a tap of this nature will be turned several turns clockwise, before being turned 1-2 turns in the opposite direction.

This process will be repeated until the tap has passed through the entire depth of the oil pan’s drain hole.

#3 – Inspect Threads

Once a new set of threads has been cut into your oil pan’s drain hole, one must pause to carefully inspect their handiwork. Ensure that all threads are cut evenly and are free of excess metal chips.

#4 – Flush Out Oil Pan

After re-tapping your oil pan’s drain hole, it is always a good idea to flush a ½ quart of oil through your vehicle’s engine before installing a new drain plug. This will remove the vast majority of metal chips that would otherwise circulate in your engine oil.

#5 – Install Oversized Drain Plug

You will now screw a new drain plug into your oil pan’s newly threaded drain hole. Care should be taken when initially tightening this plug to identify any potential abnormalities.

The drain plug itself should be tightened to the value specified by your repair kit’s instructions. After tightening the drain plug, check that its sealing washer sits evenly around the outer perimeter of the drain hole.

#6 – Refill Oil And Check For Leaks

Check the integrity of your repair by checking for leaks after filling your engine’s crankcase to full capacity with fresh oil. If no leaks are evident, start your engine and check again for leaks.

This inspection should be repeated once more after driving your vehicle a short distance. If your oil pan and drain plug still appear dry at the end of a short road test, there will be little reason to anticipate further problems of any kind.

Preventing Stripped Drain Plug Threads

While it is impossible to avoid the possibility of suffering drain plug damage inflicted by a vehicle’s previous owner, several precautions can be taken to avoid causing such damage yourself. By following these key procedural points, the risk of stripping a drain plug is virtually eliminated.

The first of these precautions is to use a properly sized wrench or socket during every oil change. This significantly reduces the risk of rounding a drain plug’s hex head. Information regarding the drain plug size for a particular vehicle can often be found via the internet or by consulting a manufacturer-specific service manual.

One should also adhere to proper torque specifications when tightening their vehicle’s drain plug. This significantly reduces the risk of damaging the threads of your engine’s drain plug or oil pan.

A torque wrench can be used to avoid over-tightening, while ensuring that the drain plug in question is not left loose to any degree.

Summer has finally arrived and you are on your way to the beach for a long-awaited family vacation. Everything is fine and you are only a few hours from your destination when an unexpected event abruptly interrupts your journey. As the reading presented by your vehicle’s temperature gauge begins to soar, you realize that something is wrong.

A quick glance under your vehicle’s hood reveals a lack of coolant in the cooling system’s overflow reservoir, indicating an apparent leak. Although the nearest store within walking distance does not stock coolant, the store clerk offers several gallons of water to top up your vehicle’s cooling system.

This raises an intriguing question. Can you put water in your vehicle’s radiator or cooling system in an emergency, and does it pose a risk to your vehicle’s engine?

Read on to learn more about using water in automotive cooling systems, as well as how to properly handle such roadside emergencies if faced in the future.

What Happens If You Use Water Instead of Coolant?

In the vast majority of cases, it is perfectly safe to fill your vehicle’s cooling system with water in an emergency. However, before doing so, it is important to understand that water offers no protection against freezing and also boils at lower temperatures than antifreeze.

Therefore, water should only be used as a temporary substitute for coolant. A vehicle’s cooling system should be filled with the appropriate coolant as soon as all underlying leaks have been repaired. Failure to replace this water with the appropriate type of coolant can lead to a multitude of troubling problems over time.

Over extended periods, using water can lead to the development of corrosion in a vehicle’s cooling system. As this corrosion continues to worsen, overheating problems can manifest, as rust particles clog cooling passages and restrict radiators.

Once this corrosion cycle begins, it can be quite difficult to stop, leading to years of overheating problems.

Water must also be drained from an engine before the onset of cold weather, as water offers no freeze protection. When water freezes, it expands and occupies a significantly larger volume than when in its liquid state.

Although most engines feature freeze plugs, which are intended to relieve the pressure from this expansion, water freezing within an engine’s cooling system still poses a high risk of damage.

Engine blocks and cylinder heads are known to crack or break under the stress imposed by the expansion of frozen water. Similarly, radiators rarely stand a chance against such expansion.

Ultimately, problems of this variety will often prove to be much more problematic than those that led to your engine’s initial coolant leak.

Does the Type of Water Matter?

Although water of any type is never intended to be extended (by itself) in an engine’s cooling system, some types of water are more suitable for such uses than others. This is because certain types of water present an increased risk of corrosion and scale buildup within the cooling system.

Whenever possible, the use of ordinary tap water for such purposes should be avoided. Tap water contains many minerals that are catalysts for corrosion. Therefore, using tap water in an engine’s cooling system can lead to an accelerated buildup of problematic deposits, in turn worsening issues related to overheating.

In order to avoid the problems presented by tap water, softened or purified water should be used as an alternative, whenever possible. However, one can use distilled or bottled water for the same purpose, if such products are readily available.

Use:

Do not use:

Will a Car Overheat With Just Water in the Radiator?

Although water is relatively effective at keeping an engine cool, its boiling point is slightly lower than that of coolant. Water boils at a temperature of 212° F, while 50/50 coolant boils at 223° F.

Although this gap seems somewhat minor, it is significant enough to make coolant far more effective at preventing boil-over than water. Therefore, using water alone, in a vehicle’s cooling system, leaves an engine susceptible to overheating under strenuous or demanding circumstances.

Although such inefficiencies might not be evident at cruising speeds, motorists should remain mindful that an engine is not sufficiently protected against overheating when running pure water in its cooling system.

Should I Pour Water On My Engine to Cool It Down?

When an engine overheats, the vast majority of motorists are intent on providing additional cooling by any means necessary. However, one can do more harm than good by taking action, without considering the possible consequences. Pouring cold water on an overheated engine is a prime example of this.

The reason for this is quite simple. Metal, like that which makes up the engine block and cylinder heads, expands when heated. Upon cooling, this metal will contract back to its normal state.

Metal is capable of withstanding these fluctuations when heating/cooling occurs gradually. On the other hand, rapid heating or cooling can cause metal surfaces to crack in one or more locations.

Pouring cold water on an overheated engine is one of the leading causes of thermal shock-related damage. The sudden cooling provided by pouring water on an engine causes its block and cylinder heads to contract rapidly.

More often than not, this will lead to the development of one or more cracks in an engine’s vital structural components. Damage of this nature can be quite costly to repair and might even exceed the overall value of a vehicle itself.

How to Safely Top Up Coolant in Radiator With Water

Although water can be used to top up a vehicle’s cooling system in an emergency, several special measures must be taken when attempting to accomplish such a task.

The following steps, when followed, will help you safely add water to your engine’s radiator.

#1 – Let Engine Cool

Water should never be added to a hot engine. Instead, one should allow their engine to cool to room temperature, before attempting to top up the system.

#2 – Remove Cap

With the engine cooled, you will now remove your engine’s cooling system fill cap. In some applications, this cap will be located along the upper radiator tank, while other systems will be capped at a remote overflow reservoir.

In any case, this cap should be opened slowly, using a cloth or towel in hand. You do NOT want any spray of scalding coolant on your hands, arms, or even your face.

#3 – Add Water

Water should be added slowly to any cooling system, allowing as much air as possible to escape from the system itself.

Most overflow reservoirs are stamped with a “full” mark, which will provide visual confirmation of the system’s fluid level.

Alternatively, systems without an overflow reservoir should be filled until reaching a level just below the radiator’s fill neck.

#4 – Burp System

With water added, it will now be time to “burp” your engine’s cooling system of air. This is accomplished by letting the engine idle, with the system’s fill cap still removed. You should notice small bubbles being expelled upward through the water contained within the system.

Burping should continue until the engine has warmed sufficiently to allow the system’s thermostat to open. At this point, water will again be added if necessary and the system’s fill cap will be reinstalled.

#5 – Keep A Watchful Eye

When driving, one should keep an eye on their vehicle’s temperature gauge, in order to identify the early signs of overheating. Identifying the root cause of your engine’s initial coolant loss should also be prioritized.

Once all repairs have been made, the water should be drained from the system and the appropriate coolant added. Be sure to consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual to determine acceptable coolant types.

Tired of giving all your money to your mechanic instead of investing in your next road trip? That’s why OBD scanners might be the best investment for your money – but what exactly are they?

WHAT ARE THEY

Simply put, an onboard diagnostic scanner is a portable device that allows you or your mechanic to gather important information about various aspects of your car. This will enable you to take preventive measures if your vehicle encounters problems, saving you money in the long run. This device was initially developed for professional mechanics but is now available to anyone who wants clear and concise information about the status of their vehicle’s various features. It can monitor your car’s engine, report any detected issues, and record data. This gives you the advantage of being able to solve problems yourself and not having to rely on an expensive mechanic.

OBD1 OR OBD2?

OBD1 or OBD2? If you’ve heard of an OBD1 scanner, you might wonder what the difference is between it and an OBD2 scanner. OBD1 scanners are connected to the car’s console, have good diagnostic capabilities, are compatible with cars manufactured before 1996, and can help solve smaller issues. They also include built-in memory that stores codes but can be difficult to read. They are also much less popular among car owners because OBD2 provides more comprehensive information.

OBD2 is connected to the vehicle remotely via Bluetooth or Wi-Fi, has better messaging formats and signaling protocols – making it perfect for cars manufactured after 1996. If you prefer the wired option, it is also available. If you don’t have much experience with cars, OBD2 would be the best tool for you. Most vehicles equipped with an OBD2 port have a standard CAN pinout. If your car requires a non-standard arrangement, it can be customized to meet your vehicle’s needs. In addition to the information provided by OBD1, it can also inform you about the air-fuel ratio, oil temperature, or potential issues with your airbags, and much more. OBD2 also provides live mapping and online programming.

HOW DO I KNOW WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY CAR?

OBD2 provides you with a fault code scanner. These five-digit codes inform you about any malfunction in your vehicle. For example, if the first letter is a C, it could be a brake issue in the chassis. If you encounter a problem with the network communication system, you’ll see a P. The second character of the code tells you whether the problem comes from the manufacturer or is a more generic issue. With over 5000 codes, you can be assured that no matter the problem, the scanner will find it.

If you invest in an OBD2 adapter, you benefit from Bluetooth connectivity: Bluetooth can help you track information such as how much you spend on gas, diagnose the “check engine” light – which could indicate anything from an engine misfire, a faulty spark plug, to a defective catalytic converter that may need replacement. It is also very helpful if you need emergency assistance or can’t remember where you parked your car.

Every vehicle needs oxygen for the combustion engine to function properly. Air filters keep the engine free from dust, debris, or other small particles, such as sand, so it can “breathe.”

You can find air filters in a variety of shapes and sizes, cylindrical, round, or panel. If you’re looking to clean or replace your filter, you’ll find it near the front of the engine compartment under the hood. Some vehicles are equipped with large, round metal air filters that are hard to miss.

HOW DO I DETECT IF MY AIR FILTER NEEDS CLEANING?

Many signs indicate that it may be time to clean or replace your air filter. The most obvious is that it looks dirty. Your vehicle will also let you know and show it in different ways:

Your car consumes more fuel than before. If you notice you’re spending more money at the gas station, and not due to higher prices, it’s time to check your air filter.

The engine misfires, hesitates, or has trouble starting. If the engine doesn’t get enough air, unburned fuel will escape from the engine and lead to soot residue. Soot then builds up on the spark plug, which consequently cannot provide enough spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture.

If, when pressing the accelerator, you notice jerking or surging. This could indicate that your car isn’t getting enough air to run properly.

The exhaust emits soot, black smoke, or even flames. If your engine doesn’t get enough air, it can prevent some fuel from burning completely. The unburned fuel then exits through the exhaust pipe. If you notice your exhaust pipe emitting black smoke, you need to clean or replace your filter. This condition is potentially dangerous and should be addressed immediately.

If your fuel injection system or carburetor doesn’t get the oxygen it needs, unburned fuel will then be emitted from the exhaust pipe. Rather than seeing flames or smoke, you’ll notice a gasoline smell – a clear sign that it’s time to replace the air filter.

The car has started making unusual noises. Normally, when your engine is on, but your car isn’t moving, it doesn’t make any noise other than the hum of your engine. If you hear your car start to “cough” and “wheeze,” or if you notice unusual vibration, it’s time to clean or replace your filter.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR AIR FILTER AS GOOD AS NEW

Before working on your car, make sure your engine has cooled down. Protective equipment, such as glasses, a face mask, and a pair of gloves, is recommended to prevent injury.

Locate the filter, and if it’s enclosed in a cover or housing, simply remove it with regular tools like a screwdriver or wrench and set it aside. Do not let debris, dirt, or dust get into the nearby intake or airbox. If debris has fallen to the bottom of the airbox, clean it with a vacuum. Do not use compressed air – you might inadvertently blow debris around your engine.

Hold the filter over a trash can or garbage bag and shake it to remove as much debris as possible. Using a vacuum, remove as much dirt as possible that still remains on the filter. The easiest and most convenient way to do this is with a handheld vacuum.

You can buy a ready-to-use filter cleaner or make one yourself. Simply combine water with a mild laundry detergent or dish soap in a 2:1 ratio. Fill a spray bottle and close it tightly to prevent liquid from leaking from the cap, and shake well before use. Now spray it on and into the filter (depending on the shape) and let it soak for a few minutes, but do not let it dry.

Next, scrub the filter with a soft-bristled brush, being careful not to press too hard, which could damage the filter. You can use a toothbrush to scrub small crevices that the regular brush can’t reach. Make sure you’ve removed all the cleaning solution and residue before moving to the next step.

Using a tap with running water or a garden hose, thoroughly rinse the filter from the clean side outward to wash away the dirt. Be sure to keep the water pressure low to avoid damaging the filter and continue until all the cleaner has been removed. Shake off excess water from the filter carefully, then let it dry completely.

If you have oil-coated filters, you need to take an extra step. Use an air filter oil and spray the top of each filter pleat, keeping the nozzle about three inches away. Ensure the filter is evenly coated with oil and let the oil soak in for about 20 minutes. With this step, it’s essential that you let the filter dry completely before reinstalling it. Not doing so could cause your mass airflow sensor to malfunction. Now reinstall the filter using the same tools you used to remove it. Take a second look to make sure everything is reinstalled correctly.

REPLACING A DIRTY FILTER

Locate your air filter housing and, using common tools like a screwdriver, remove the screws holding the housing together. Then, remove the cover to locate the filter, making sure not to dislodge any hoses or stretch any wires. Be sure to note the position of the filter so you can install the new one correctly. This is the time to vacuum any dirt or debris that may have fallen into the compartment. Install the new filter, ensuring the outer seal is properly in place before closing the filter cover. Close the cover and replace the screws or clips.

HOW OFTEN DO I NEED TO CLEAN OR REPLACE MY CAR’S AIR FILTER?

It is recommended to clean or replace your air filter after about 15,000 to 30,000 miles. This can vary depending on the vehicle and the environment in which you drive. If you often drive through the countryside on dusty roads, you may need to clean or replace your filter more frequently.

Fuel filters are a necessary part of contemporary internal combustion engines. Their main function is to protect against rust particles and dirt and to regulate the flow of fuel and air into the engine. They are essential for protecting the environment by reducing fuel consumption and emissions. Replacing or cleaning the fuel filter yourself can save you a lot of money since labor is expensive. For example, in the UK, the average replacement cost is £114. Therefore, being a DIY-type car owner will have a positive effect on your wallet.

You will find the fuel filter inside the fuel tank in the opening of the fuel hose that supplies your car with gasoline or in the fuel hose typically located at the bottom of your vehicle.

HOW DO I KNOW IF MY FUEL FILTER NEEDS CHANGING OR REPLACING?

If your car starts showing the following warning signs: misfires or irregular idling, difficulty at low speed and stalling, or loud noises from the fuel pump, you likely have a blocked or clogged fuel filter, or perhaps water in the filter. Your car will tell you if there is a problem with your fuel filter. If the warning light comes on as soon as you start your car, it’s time to change or unclog your filter. You might be tempted to keep driving with the light on, but it’s important to drain the filter as soon as possible. If you wait too long, water could accumulate and eventually enter your engine, where it could cause serious damage.

FUEL FILTER MAINTENANCE FOR OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE

Like many vehicle parts, fuel filters require regular maintenance. To maintain optimal performance, it is recommended to regularly replace your filter. In the past, the recommended interval was every 20,000 to 30,000 miles. Nowadays, thanks to improvements in vehicles and fuels, filters can be replaced every 60,000 miles. If your car uses a paper or nylon filter, you can simply install a new one. In the case where you have a metal filter and it’s not too dirty, you can simply wash it and reuse it.

REMOVING YOUR FUEL FILTER

If you decide to clean the filter, there are a few important steps to keep in mind. First, only work on your car in a well-ventilated area. Consult the owner’s manual and locate your fuel pump fuse. Remove it, then start your engine and let it run for about two minutes. Now, turn off your engine and open the hood. Locate the negative terminal of your battery and using a wrench, loosen the cable. Place the cable to the side of the battery to prevent it from accidentally touching its terminal.

Remember that if your terminals are red and black, the negative terminal is black. Not disconnecting the battery can cause sparks and ignite residue and gasoline vapors flowing from the fuel lines. Now locate the filter. As mentioned above, its location may differ depending on the make and model. Most likely, you will find it under the car just behind the fuel pump. Sometimes, it is located in the engine compartment. If it is necessary to lift your car, consult your manual to locate your vehicle’s jack points. Place a jack under one of the jack points, then repeatedly press or turn the handle to lift the vehicle. Be cautious and do not rely on the jack to support the weight of your car and do not work under a vehicle that is not supported by jack stands.

Place a container, such as a bucket, under the filter to catch any fuel that might spill. Then, detach the clips that secure the fuel line to the fuel filter. The precise design of the clips may differ by model. Look in your manual, or online, for your vehicle’s design. You can use your hands to remove them or pry them out with a flat-head screwdriver.

Detach the fuel lines using a wrench or hose clamps to remove the fuel lines from the filter. Remove the lines from the nozzles at both ends of the filter. When disconnecting the fuel lines, wear gloves and safety glasses to prevent injury. Make sure to point them towards your bucket or container to catch any fuel that might flow out. Now detach the filter from the bracket. Either loosen the bolts holding it in place, or simply slide it out of the bracket. Be sure to pay attention to its position before removing it, so you remember how to reinstall it correctly.

CLEANING THE FILTER

There might still be fuel in the filter, so carefully drain the fuel inlet and outlet nozzles into the container you used to catch the spilled gasoline. You will find them at each end of the filter.

Use a cleaner provided with an application straw. Attach the straw to the nozzle of the bottle or can and spray inside both nozzles. Gently tap the filter against the container you used to hold the spilled gasoline. Let the dirt, debris, and spray from both nozzles fall out. Repeat this procedure once more and let the filter air dry for at least one hour.

REINSTALLING THE FUEL FILTER AND FINAL STEPS

To reinstall the filter, slide it into the bracket in the correct position. Replace the bolts you removed, if necessary. Make sure you have securely attached the lines to prevent any leaks. Now reattach the clips that secure the lines to the nozzles.

If necessary, lower your car and reconnect the fuse and battery. If you lifted your car, lift it further to remove the supports, then lower it to the ground. Use a wrench to reconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal and replace the fuel pump fuse.

Now that you have reconnected the fuse and battery, let your engine run for a few minutes. Due to the need to restore fuel system pressure, you may need to try several times before it starts. Once it has started running, look under your vehicle to see if there is a fuel leak.

If you see leaks, you will need to jack up the car again (if necessary), disconnect the battery, and tighten the fuel lines. If, after a few minutes, your engine does not start, check your fuses again. In case the interior lights and dashboard do not light up or are dim, you may need to restart your battery. If the fuses and battery are working, check that the fuel lines are not loose and that you have put the filter back in the correct position.

CORRECT PETROL DISPOSAL

Make sure to dispose of the old gasoline properly. If it is not too contaminated with dirt or debris, reusing it in gasoline-powered equipment, like a leaf blower, is the most environmentally friendly solution. If it is full of debris and not reusable, place it in a safe container for gasoline storage and bring it to a disposal center. The container must be tightly sealed when moving it – and remember that it is extremely dangerous to light a fire or smoke near flammable liquids.

These devices are essential components for an internal combustion engine to function properly with maximum efficiency. In this article, we will detail what they are, where the camshaft sensor is located, what they do, and common problems with the device that may occur.

WHAT IS A CAMSHAFT SENSOR?

A camshaft sensor or camshaft position sensor is a device that determines the precise position and speed of the crankshaft in conjunction with the crankshaft sensor. It is typically located at the top of the engine, either on one or both cylinder heads, on top of the engine block, or, in some cases, on the intake manifold. A camshaft sensor sends this data to the vehicle’s Engine Control Module (ECM), which allows the ECM to determine the amount of fuel injected into the combustion chamber, as well as the timing of its ignition. The information from both sensors enables the engine control unit to determine the top dead center of the first cylinder.

SYMPTOMS OF CAMSHAFT SENSOR MALFUNCTIONS

A faulty device can lead to several problems. If the information relayed by the sensor is off by just a few fractions of a second, it can still cause engine knocking, reduced power, and poor acceleration. In extreme cases, the engine may even stall or shut down. Sometimes, the result is also that the transmission shift solenoids no longer function and the gears cannot shift properly. Poor timing can also cause the fuel injectors to operate for too long, wasting fuel and leading to a buildup of liquid gasoline in the combustion chamber. Ultimately, ignoring the symptoms of a failing camshaft position sensor can prevent the engine from starting at all, leaving the vehicle stranded. Fortunately, one of the most common symptoms of a malfunction is the “check engine” light illuminating on the dashboard.

HOW TO CHECK FOR A FAULTY CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

After recognizing the symptoms listed in the paragraph above, it’s a good idea to check the device itself for any potential damage. What causes a camshaft position sensor to malfunction can vary, so a proper inspection is necessary. Locate the sensor at the position mentioned above or consult your vehicle’s make and model documentation to determine its location if you cannot find it. If the sensor itself shows no visible damage, check its wiring and electrical connectors. If any of the wires or cables are broken, corroded, damaged, or poorly secured, you may have found the culprit. If the vehicle has a modern onboard diagnostic system, the engine control unit may also indicate an error code that can be scanned with a DIY scan tool or at a properly equipped garage to determine the location of the sensor malfunction.

HOW TO REPLACE A FAULTY CAMSHAFT SENSOR

Once you have determined that the sensor itself is the cause of all your problems, you can either replace it yourself or take your car to a garage to have the part replaced with a functioning one by expert mechanics. Replacing it yourself should generally not be attempted unless you have some experience in car or vehicle maintenance and have access to the appropriate tools and a safe, dry place to perform the repairs. If all these conditions are met, however, you can proceed with replacing the camshaft position sensor yourself. Note that the exact location and installation method of the sensor may vary from vehicle to vehicle, so take the time to consult the relevant documentation before attempting to remove it from your car’s engine.

1. Locate the sensor. Once you know where it is, you can move on to the next steps.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Gently remove the negative battery cable from the camshaft sensor and set it aside where it won’t be in the way.
3. Remove the sensor’s electrical connector. This should be fairly straightforward and only involve pressing a tab. Otherwise, use a flathead screwdriver or another appropriate tool.
4. Unscrew the sensor. The camshaft sensor will be mounted using a number of screws. Loosen them using the appropriate tool. Keep these screws in case the new sensor does not come with any.
5. Remove the old sensor. Now that it’s no longer connected to anything, the sensor should be easily removed by pulling it out. If not, check if it’s still connected to something.
6. Install a new sensor. Mounting the sensor should work as simply as removing the old one. Align it properly and push it into place.
7. Screw in the sensor. Use the mounting screws and securely fasten the new sensor in place. Use the same tool as before.
8. Reconnect the sensor’s electrical connector. Connect all the cables to the positions they were in on the old sensor.
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Reconnecting it will complete the installation of the new camshaft position sensor.

WHAT TO DO AFTER REPLACING THE CAMSHAFT SENSOR

There are really only two options here, and they depend on how the installation process went. If everything works fine, continue driving your car without worry or concern and pat yourself on the back (but not while driving). You have successfully replaced the part. If your car still has issues or is in an even worse condition, well, you really should consult a garage for repairs.

It’s important to check your car’s engine oil level, and it’s easy to top up the engine oil yourself whenever you find it’s too low, but you can’t keep doing this indefinitely. You also need to drain it completely and refill it from time to time, and install a new filter when you do. It’s an easy job to handle yourself, but what happens if you don’t change your oil regularly?

VOIDED VEHICLE WARRANTY

Failing to maintain your car according to the manufacturer’s recommendations can lead to the warranty being partially or completely voided, and these recommendations typically include regular oil changes. Check your owner’s manual for the specific frequency recommended for your car and keep track of all routine maintenance you perform.

WEAR AND TEAR OF ENGINE COMPONENTS

Over time, engine oil picks up dirt, debris, and soot, while heat and friction cause it to lose its properties and can change its viscosity. Dirty oil can clog the filter and cause low oil pressure, meaning less lubricant circulating in the system. This leads to increased wear and can easily result in premature component failure.

OVERHEATING ENGINE

Reduced lubrication also means reduced cooling and a risk of engine overheating. This can lead to leaking seals, warped cylinders, or a blown head gasket, and should not be ignored under any circumstances.

OVERALL ENGINE FAILURE

If left unchanged for too long, the engine oil won’t be able to perform its essential functions, and you could face total engine failure. That’s why it’s important to know how often an oil change is needed. The recommended intervals depend on your vehicle’s age and engine type, driving conditions, and the product you use.

So remember to perform this job on time and save yourself a lot of potential trouble down the line.

The manifold absolute pressure sensor measures the intake manifold pressure (IMP) downstream of the throttle valve to indirectly calculate – through the relationship between pressure and engine speed – the amount of air drawn in. It measures the pressure in the intake manifold (IM) and sends this information as an electrical signal to the engine control unit.

Typically, it is mounted directly on the IM. Pressure usually acts on a piezoelectric element, which then produces a corresponding output signal via an electronic circuit. This can be a PWM signal or an electrical voltage.

SYMPTOMS OF MALFUNCTIONS

It can become clogged, damaged, or contaminated. Sometimes, excessive engine heat can damage it or the vacuum lines. If it is not working properly, the computer cannot accurately calculate the air-fuel mixture, meaning the mixture is too rich or too lean. Here are some symptoms of a faulty MAP sensor:

INCREASED FUEL CONSUMPTION

A MAP sensor showing increased pressure in the intake manifold indicates a high engine load to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). This results in more fuel being injected into the engine than necessary. It also increases fuel consumption, as well as the amount of gaseous emissions into the environment. Hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide are some of the components found in smog.

Lack of performance or low engine power
A sensor indicating low IMP actually means the power load for the PCM is low. The PCM responds by decreasing the amount of fuel injected into the engine. Although you may notice fuel savings, you will also find that the car does not perform as well as before. Reducing the engine’s fuel supply increases the temperature in the combustion chamber. This raises the level of nitrogen oxides produced. Nitrogen monoxide is also a component of smog and has a negative effect on our environment.

ENGINE FAILURE WHILE DRIVING OR WHEN STARTING

If the MAP sensor is faulty, the car may not run when expected or run poorly, or in both cases, performance will be affected. For example, when trying to pass another vehicle, the car may not accelerate smoothly. A lean or very rich air-fuel mixture makes it difficult to start the vehicle. If it only starts when you press the accelerator, there is a high chance the sensor is failing.

WHAT HAPPENS IF I UNPLUG IT

It is not recommended to drive without it. Your vehicle will not run as efficiently without the sensor readings. The engine and catalytic converter could be damaged and wear out faster. If you suspect a problem, it’s a good idea to test it immediately.

HOW TO TEST A MAP SENSOR

Most are connected to the intake manifold via a hose. Ensure it is connected and in good condition. Also check if the hose is clogged or cracked. This can lead to abnormal readings. If it is properly connected to both the electrical system and the intake manifold, use a voltmeter to measure the output voltage. After reading the output voltage, compare the result with the manufacturer’s specifications. Check the intake manifold sensor connector and the system wiring. The connector may be damaged by corrosion, or some wires may be short-circuited. If the sensor is corroded, the issue may be resolved by cleaning the MAP sensor.

TESTING WITH A MULTIMETER

If you choose to test a malfunction with a multimeter, make sure to use one with at least 10 megohms. This ensures you won’t damage any other sensitive electrical devices in your car.

HOW TO CLEAN A MAP SENSOR

First, wearing a pair of rubber gloves and safety glasses, disconnect it. Using a paper towel or a soft cloth and an electrical parts cleaner, remove dirt from the sensor. Spray the cleaner inside – a few sprays are enough. Shake off any excess cleaner and let it dry completely. Take a look at the vacuum hose or the intake manifold connection. If you see more dirt or grime, clean the hose with the same product and a brush. Once everything is dry, it should be clean and can be reinstalled.

Generally, braking a car involves pressing the brake pedal. But there is another way to reduce the vehicle’s speed, which is engine braking. But how exactly does it work and what distinguishes it from regular braking? Let’s discover how you can use your vehicle’s engine as a brake.

ENGINE BRAKING

The standard way to slow down the car is to press the brake pedal. This is connected to the braking system, which then slows down the car’s wheels. There are a few different designs, but generally, this is done by applying friction to the wheels.

Engine braking works differently and involves a gasoline engine and the driver removing their foot from the accelerator pedal. When the pedal is released, fuel injection stops and the throttle is almost completely closed, leading to a significant reduction in airflow. This results in a strong vacuum in the manifold, meaning the air pressure in the engine’s intake manifold, which is lower than the surrounding atmosphere, is unable to draw in air. The cylinders struggle to compensate for this, thereby undermining the energy they provide and slowing the vehicle in the process. This does not work if the car is not in gear, as the deceleration force created is not properly transferred to the transmission, or on diesel engines, as they do not use a throttle body and do not have a comparable vacuum. Diesel engines instead require specialized brakes often called Jacobs brakes or Jake brakes and are particularly common in trucks. The overall effect of this type of braking can be enhanced by shifting the car to lower gears while releasing the accelerator pedal. Engine braking in automatic cars requires shifting to a lower mode.

IS ENGINE BRAKING BAD FOR MY CAR?

Engine braking increases the engine’s RPM. Whether this is a bad thing depends on two factors: how high the RPM increases and how long it stays at that level. Even audible RPM increases in response to engine braking do not need to be harmful as long as the RPM remains below the limit indicated by the red mark on the dashboard. Staying in this zone or at such high levels for extended periods can lead to engine overheating and strain the car’s cooling system.

The car’s transmission system also undergoes stress when shifting too quickly from a high gear to a lower one. The gears and clutch plate can experience increased wear, which can become a costly problem to fix.

These risks can be overcome with practice and experience and result in a few benefits. Most importantly, engine braking reduces wear on the brake pads and decreases the risk of the braking system overheating.

Now, if you need to stop quickly and safely, this method won’t suffice. There is no alternative but to press the brakes when an obstacle suddenly appears on the road or the driver in front of you stops abruptly. Needless to say, hitting an obstacle or another vehicle is certainly not good for your car.

WHEN IS ENGINE BRAKING A GOOD IDEA?

There are situations where engine braking is a better idea than using the brake pedal. When driving downhill over longer distances, pressing the brakes can put intense pressure on the braking system. The increased wear caused by reducing the car’s momentum as it descends a slope can damage the brake pads or similar stopping mechanisms, overheat them, and reduce the friction they provide. This leads to brake fade and can be fatal when descending a steep slope. Shifting to lower gears and engine braking can significantly slow the car, thereby reducing the need to engage the brakes and sparing them from the intense wear they would otherwise undergo.

Another time when engine braking can be useful is when driving in winter conditions. Ice and snow create dangerous road conditions that make braking by locking the wheels a hazardous undertaking. Since the roads become slippery, locking the wheels or suddenly slowing them can result in the car’s momentum taking it for a ride, sliding on the surface. Under these conditions, especially if you maintain sufficient distance from the car ahead and drive slowly, shifting to lower gears can help you avoid the dangers caused by harsh braking on an icy road.

PLACES WHERE ENGINE BRAKING IS PROHIBITED

Some places, especially in the United States or Canada, will have signs prohibiting engine braking, brake retarders, compression braking, or Jake brakes. This has less to do with safety issues and more with noise pollution. Engine braking and especially its equivalent for truck diesel engines can be very loud, and as such, many municipalities prohibit their use within their limits. The signs do not warn the driver of a danger to their car but of an exceptional danger to their wallet if they do not comply.

Conclusion

To summarize, engine braking is an alternative way to slow down your vehicle, although it cannot universally replace pressing the brake pedal and activating the standard braking system. It works by creating a vacuum that reduces the energy the car can expend for locomotion. This means of braking is slower than the regular type and does not lend itself well to emergencies. However, in certain situations, it is safer to use this form of braking when conventional brakes risk weakening, such as during a descent, or when sudden and complete stops of the wheels do not halt the car’s momentum, as on slippery roads. Overall, engine braking poses no risk to your vehicle’s well-being if performed correctly.