Coolant, also known as radiator fluid and antifreeze, is vital for the hydration of the cooling system and the vehicle. Mechanical failures of the cooling system are one of the main reasons why cars break down on highways. Checking its level and condition is part of regular vehicle maintenance. Generally, there should be a leak somewhere if the vehicle loses a large amount of antifreeze. However, a car can lose coolant without a leak. What should you do when the coolant disappears from the reservoir without leaving a trace?

Coolant Loss But No Leak: Where Is My Coolant Going?

It might seem ghostly if you think about coolant loss with no visible leak. But, things are not as complicated as they seem. A poorly maintained antifreeze system, faulty components, or a rapid change in driving style can contribute to the disappearance of this coolant.

These parts could be the cause when the antifreeze level drops without any visible leak:

Overfilled Cooling System

Overfilling the system could be the reason for the mysterious disappearance. You must maintain the fluid at the required level. A COLD/MIN label on the reservoir indicates the ideal antifreeze level when the engine is cold. The coolant in the radiator should be just below the filler neck.

An Internal Puncture

When you lose coolant but no leak is visible, several parts could be to blame. It could be a blown head gasket, a fractured cylinder head, damaged cylinder bores, or a manifold leak. It could also be a hydraulic lock.

If the antifreeze disappears without an apparent reason, check that these components are not cracked, damaged, or faulty. Any of these issues can destroy the engine if they last too long. However, you can breathe easy if the mechanic finds no trace of exhaust gases in the coolant. This means the fluid has not yet reached the engine.

A Worn Radiator Cap

The radiator cap can deteriorate over time, allowing antifreeze to pass through when you’re driving. A clogged radiator system can also be a problem because it blocks the flow of the fluid. Check the radiator when the coolant disappears without any trace.

Overheated Engine

Engine overheating and coolant are closely related. Loss of fluid can lead to an overheating condition, but overheating can also contribute to coolant loss. Simply fill the reservoir to the maximum limit and monitor the engine’s condition and the rate of coolant usage.

Using a temperature gauge will tell you whether the engine is heating up more than usual or not. If it is, take the car to a mechanic to find out the causes of the overheating. Fixing the problem will restore the normal cycle of coolant consumption.

Some other things that can cause coolant loss but no leak are driving uphill, carrying heavy loads, a faulty exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system, and a worn water pump.

You never want to see smoke coming from your car’s exhaust pipe. In most cases, a thin white smoke from your exhaust in winter is perfectly normal and not a cause for concern. However, whenever you notice thick puffs of white exhaust smoke, it’s a sign that something is wrong with various components of your engine, whether it’s white exhaust smoke at startup or white exhaust smoke during acceleration.

The most common reasons for thick white exhaust smoke involve a malfunction that requires immediate repairs or replacement of faulty parts, many of which are very expensive, and if you continue driving in this condition, you risk further damage to your vehicle’s engine. To avoid this, you need to understand the different root causes of white exhaust smoke and master the maintenance steps to troubleshoot and resolve these issues. The cost of repair or replacement is also included in each case.

Exhaust Emissions: What is Normal?

Before continuing to explain why thick white exhaust smoke is a sign of problems, you must first understand where exhaust gases come from and what is normal. Inside your engine’s combustion chamber, a spark ignites the fuel and air mixture, creating a series of contained combustions or explosions inside the cylinder. The direct byproducts of these explosions are the exhaust gases that are routed to the exhaust system. Before exiting through your tailpipe, these gases pass through the muffler to reduce noise and a catalytic converter to reduce harmful emissions.

Under normal conditions, you should not see exhaust coming out of your tailpipe. Especially in winter, however, you might sometimes see a thin veil of white-colored smoke, which is just water vapor. This is perfectly normal and would disappear after a short while. It is important to understand that even though thin white smoke from the exhaust is normal, if it is thick and comes out in visible bursts, you will need to perform an inspection of various parts to diagnose the source of the problem.

What Does White Exhaust Smoke Mean?

Thick white smoke from the exhaust suggests that coolant or water has inadvertently entered the combustion chamber, which they should never do. When coolant or water is burned in the engine block, it produces thick white smoke that comes out of your tailpipe.

A common phenomenon is white exhaust smoke emitted in thick bursts. Never ignore it and let it persist. The most common reasons for this event include cracks on vital engine parts, including damage in the cylinder head, head gasket, or engine blocks. Even if it’s just a small crack, the damage can easily worsen if you continue driving and delay replacing the cracked component. This could lead to further contamination of the engine oil or engine overheating, which can result in permanent engine damage. You would then need to replace the completely failed engine, which is expensive and a job best left to professionals.

What does white exhaust smoke mean? Below are the 9 most common reasons for white exhaust smoke, and further down, how to troubleshoot and handle each culprit.

Reasons for White Exhaust Smoke

Thin White Smoke: Condensation Buildup

Thin white smoke at startup that disappears then is usually the result of condensation buildup in the exhaust system. It tends to occur in winter or on cold mornings. The smoke should be thin, not too visible, and only come out in small quantities at startup, and will die out fairly quickly after your engine warms up, especially after about 30 seconds to a minute. This is not a sign of a problem, but if it occurs in conjunction with other instances of reduced engine performance or hard starting, it could indicate a more serious problem within your engine.

Coolant Leak: Damaged Coolant Reservoir

Sometimes, if the coolant reservoir tank is damaged or cracked, there can be a coolant leak into the engine’s combustion chamber. This leaking coolant is then burned in the cylinders, creating thick white smoke from the exhaust.

Coolant leaking from a cracked coolant reservoir is usually less common than the leak sources just below, but it can happen when you are fixing another issue nearby and accidentally damage the reservoir. In any case, you will need to replace the damaged reservoir.

Coolant Leak: Crack in the Cylinder Head, Engine Block, or Head Gasket

Although a cracked coolant reservoir is rare, when most mechanics hear about thick white smoke from the exhaust, they would assume the worst. This is usually due to a crack in the cylinder head, head gasket, or engine block, none of which are very quick or cheap to replace, and are not a maintenance job for a novice.

Cracks in these parts are caused by an engine constantly overheating due to low coolant levels, which is due to a coolant leak and constant engine temperature fluctuations. They allow coolant or oil to seep into the cylinders, which are then burned and produce thick white exhaust smoke.

Cracked Cylinder Head

Whenever your cylinder head is cracked or damaged in any way, coolant leaks from it and mixes with the engine oil. Once this happens, the oil will be contaminated. This doesn’t need to be a large crack; just a small crack is enough to create thick puffs of white smoke from your tailpipe. As the coolant continues to mix with the engine oil, the white smoke will start to have a distinct sweet smell that won’t go away.

Cracked Head Gasket

The head gasket is a thin sheet of metal located between the cylinder head and the block, sandwiching the top and bottom of most engines. Its main function is to form a seal between the two parts and helps prevent coolant leaks from the hood surrounding the engine.

Normal wear and tear is one of the reasons why cracks form on the head gasket. When this happens, coolant is no longer contained in the engine’s cooling channels but ends up in the cylinder, where it is burned. A cracked head gasket cannot be repaired; it will need to be replaced right away.

Cracked Engine Block

The worst-case scenario is that your entire engine block is cracked. If this is indeed the culprit, prepare for an expensive and lengthy replacement. You would probably need professional service in this case.

Most engine blocks are made of cast iron or aluminum alloy, so they last a long time under constant high-heat conditions and can also efficiently transfer heat from the engine. However, the engine is a complex system that requires every component to work with absolute precision. If any of the engine components are not functioning as they should, the block can overheat, which weakens and deteriorates it.

In addition to white smoke from the exhaust, there are few common symptoms indicating the block may be getting too hot, including discolored coolant, puddles of fluid under your car, frozen coolant in the radiator, and poor performance because the engine cannot maintain good compression if there is a leak in the combustion chamber.

Fuel Injection Problems

Bad Fuel Injector

A fuel injector is essentially a spray nozzle that supplies fuel to the combustion chamber as input for combustions. Contrary to what many people expect, the injector does not control when or how much fuel is sent, it “injects,” meaning it acts only to restrict or allow its passage at the right time. For optimal combustion in the engine chamber, it must inject fuel at precise times, meaning even the slightest variation can throw the system off balance.

If the fuel injector is leaking or stuck in the open position or malfunctioning in any way, the chamber no longer receives the correct amount of fuel at the right time. When there is too much fuel in the engine that needs to burn and be expelled, the result is thick white smoke from the exhaust, which is sometimes tinged with gray. It is also possible that your fuel injectors are clogged, rendering them effectively useless.

It is not advisable to inspect the injection or try to change it yourself, as it is a job best left to mechanics. The reason fuel injectors fail is mainly due to contaminants in the fuel. One way to avoid this is to replace the fuel filter regularly, at least every 2 years or so.

Diesel Engines Only: Injection Pump Timing is Off

If your engine runs on diesel, the cause of white smoke from the exhaust pipe is likely an issue related to the injection pump timing. The pump is responsible for injecting diesel into the cylinders. As with the fuel injector in a gasoline engine, if the pump timing is off and diesel is not delivered to the engine chamber at the precise times, it can lead to excess diesel, causing thick white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe.

Other signs of injection pump failure include starting problems, poor idling, reduced performance, rough rides, a reduced RPM limit, and poor fuel economy.

Engine Control Unit Error

Alternatively, there is nothing wrong with the fuel injector, but you might have a faulty or simply glitchy engine control unit that disrupts the fuel injector timing. This simply means you need to reset or repair the engine control unit so it can correct the fuel pump injector timing.

Often, to reprogram the computer, it is enough to disconnect your car’s battery for a few minutes. In case this does not solve the thick white exhaust smoke problem, it is best to entrust your car to a certified mechanic who is familiar with the engine of your vehicle’s make and model.

Note: White Smoke Tinged with Blue Due to Oil Leak

Sometimes, the white smoke from the exhaust is tinged with blue, although many people cannot distinguish it. White smoke tinged with blue suggests that your engine is burning oil.

The only thing that should be inside a combustion chamber is the precise mixture of air and fuel. If oil somehow gets into the cylinder, it ignites with the air and fuel mixture, resulting in a thick cloud of bluish smoke coming out of the tailpipe, which may appear as white smoke to some people. Other signs include engine misfires and increased oil consumption.

How can oil seep into the combustion chamber? This is likely due to leaking piston rings or valve seals, allowing oil to flow inside. When oil leaks, the engine components are not properly lubricated by the oil, meaning they will start to wear out prematurely. This will lead to a whole other flock of expensive repairs and replacements that no car owner would want to deal with.

In most cases, you should not have to deal with leaking piston rings or valve seals before the 100,000-mile mark. One way to help extend their lifespan is to switch to high-mileage engine oil.

How to Troubleshoot and Repair White Exhaust Smoke

Check the Coolant Level

If you want additional proof that you are experiencing a problem with coolant entering your engine block when it should be contained, you should first check the coolant level. If you notice the level is low and you don’t see coolant leaking from the coolant reservoir, it confirms the theory that the leak is due to a crack in the head gasket, cylinder head, or engine block. Additionally, it is advisable to invest in an engine block leak detection kit that uses chemistry to detect if your coolant is contaminated.

The first step is to open the hood. However, remember that the engine must be sufficiently cool before removing the radiator cap or reservoir cap. If the engine is hot, let it cool for at least an hour or more before attempting to check the coolant.

Next, with your vehicle parked on a level surface, open the coolant reservoir and look into the coolant chamber to check the coolant level. Look for the marks on the side of the plastic overflow bottle that indicate “Low” and “Full,” or similar terms, then grab a funnel and fill the reservoir until the level reaches “Full.” One way is to put a stick into its tank and check how much coolant it contains.

If the amount of coolant is adequate, inspect the other engine components for any crack or damage that could cause coolant to mix with engine oil or fuel. It is advisable to also perform a cooling system pressure check to try to determine which part is actually causing the leak (pressure is applied to the system up to the range specified on the radiator cap. If the system cannot maintain pressure for at least two minutes, then there is a leak. If no external leak is detected, the greatest possibility is a crack in the head gasket, cylinder head, or engine block).

Step 1: Look for Any Crack in the Intake Manifold Gasket

One might think the first thing to check is the head gasket, but before that, you should first inspect the intake manifold gasket. The intake gasket seals the intake manifold; it not only carries coolant to the engine but also oxygen. If the intake gasket cracks, the engine overheats due to a leak of coolant, air, and gases. Keep in mind that the gasket is primarily made of rubber or plastic. Therefore, it is prone to damage from extreme heat. Fortunately, although it can be cracked or damaged, it can easily be repaired if detected early.

The cost of replacing an intake manifold gasket ranges between $190 and $540. The gasket itself is relatively cheap and will cost between $20 and $120. What is expensive is the labor cost, which will be between $170 and $420, as replacing any engine component is not a simple task.

Step 2: Look for Any Crack in the Head Gasket

After checking the intake manifold gasket, you should move on to the head gasket. The head gasket is designed to seal the cylinder head to the block to prevent coolant from reaching the cylinder. If there is a crack in the head gasket, it must be replaced immediately.

The cost of head gasket repairs can run into the thousands, meaning it is often easier and cheaper to simply scrap the damaged part and replace it. It costs between $1,600 and $2,000 to replace a head gasket. The cost of the parts themselves ranges between $720 and $850, while labor costs range from $900 to $1,200.

Step 3: Look for Any Crack in the Cylinder Head

The cylinder head is essential as it connects to the engine block and the head gasket. Due to the fact that it is made of aluminum, it is susceptible to warping or breaking if the engine overheats, releasing white smoke from the exhaust. If during inspection, you spot a crack, replace the cylinder head immediately.

Repairing a cracked cylinder head will cost between $500 and $1,000 depending on whether it is aluminum or cast iron. Cracks in cast iron heads can often be repaired by furnace welding or flame spray welding.

If the crack cannot be repaired, the entire cylinder head must be replaced. Although it’s not that difficult, it is an extremely time-consuming job because the engine’s cylinder head must be removed and then replaced, so the bulk of the replacement cost is the labor cost. Furthermore, labor costs vary significantly depending on your vehicle’s make and model. Luxury vehicles like BMWs and Audis often have various components that need to be removed to access the cylinder heads.

The average cost of cylinder head replacement is between $2,800 and $3,200. Labor costs are estimated between $1,200 and $2,700, while parts cost only between $200 and $500.

Step 4: Look for Any Crack in the Engine Block

There are three possible methods to repair a cracked engine block, namely using a cold metal patch on the crack, cold metal stitching, or welding the crack again. These require the work of a professional. Whichever route you choose, it is certainly not cheap. The labor for repairing an engine block can take from 12 to 35 hours, depending on your vehicle’s make and model, because for some models, it is much more difficult to access the engine block and disassemble it. This can cost you between $2,500 and $4,000 for a temporary fix.

In the case where it makes more sense to recover your current engine and get an engine block replacement, you can expect to pay between $600 and $1,000 for small block engines or between $1,550 and $2,500 for a long block engine, depending on the model exchanged. This is only for parts and machining costs. As for the labor cost, the hourly rate can vary significantly, ranging from $90 per hour to over $150 per hour. Thus, the labor cost alone for a typical engine block replacement can range from $1,000 to $2,000.

Step 5: Clear or Replace the Fuel Injector

It is also possible that your fuel injectors are clogged and cannot do their job properly. They are typically prone to being clogged by carbon deposits and sludge formation. The good news is that there are commercial fuel injector cleaners that can help clean a dirty fuel injector.

Otherwise, if the fuel injector fails not due to clogs, it means it has reached the end of its lifespan, so the only thing you can do is replace it. However

Did you know that an air control valve is typically a place where high-density carbon accumulates, which will prevent fuel flow and stop your engine from running efficiently? Periodic cleaning of this small valve is therefore an important step to avoid rough driving and save your money. In this article, we will quickly show you how to clean the idle air control valve on your fuel-injected vehicle. Some vehicles are built a bit differently, but the process is generally the same.

What is an IAC Valve?

The idle air control valve is a part commonly installed in fuel-injected vehicles with the function of allowing your engine to idle efficiently rather than stalling when your car stops. Often, an IAC is attached to the engine throttle. And its purpose is to regulate the airflow into your engine and help create a smoother idle.

The IAC controls the amount of air entering the engine in a cyclical manner. This process is accomplished by regulating the airflow through a bypass circuit around the throttle to increase or decrease the idle speed. Increasing the volume of air flowing in the bypass circuit around the throttle increases the idle speed.

When we talk about engine idle speed, it is the engine’s rotational speed when the driver’s foot is not on the accelerator pedal. When the throttle is closed, the engine’s main intake manifold is closed. So a bypass is necessary to prevent the engine from stalling.

We cannot deny that an IAC valve is a very important component in a car’s engine. A problem with the IAC valve can lead to major issues with your engine. To keep this valve always in good working condition, cleaning the idle air control valve is a key factor.

How to Clean the Idle Air Control Valve?

Over time, the IAC valve will accumulate carbon that clogs or dirties this valve, and the consequence is less airflow entering your engine. At that point, you will have 2 options: replace an idle air control valve or clean it, depending on the condition of this valve you will make the right decision. However, did you know that an IAC valve is one of the most expensive components used in your engine system?

So you can absolutely save a large sum of money from buying a new valve by cleaning the existing one. If you wish to perform this process yourself, it is important that you consult your car’s owner’s manual when you intend to clean the IAC valve. You won’t want to cause further damage, and the manual should provide you with accurate information on how to properly clean the valve.

However, if you cannot find the relevant information, here is a step-by-step guide on how you should work with most vehicles when cleaning an IAC valve. But before starting a process, you must ensure the engine is off and completely cooled down, or you can disconnect the negative battery cable:

Step 1: Locate the Position of the Idle Air Control Valve

It will be difficult to identify the exact position of an IAC valve if this is your first time cleaning this valve. The idle air control valve is usually near the throttle position sensor connected somewhere around the throttle body. For beginners, this can be a bit tricky; you can start by locating the air filter housing and then follow the duct that will pass through the mass airflow sensor and further into the engine. Here, you can find the throttle body as well as the idle air valve. Make sure to find the correct IAC valve, or you might destroy the entire engine by finding the wrong valve.

Step 2: Detach the Air Intake Hose and Filter Housing

The next step is to use a screwdriver to loosen and remove the screws used to secure the filter housing. In this step, you should also disconnect the electrical line associated with the MAF sensor in case your vehicle has issues! However, be careful with the part of the plastic tab that secures the harness.

Do not break it because the wire leading to the harness will detach. And that will cost you much more time to handle and will be more complicated than cleaning the air valve. The harness is prevented from shaking using this plastic tab. Our advice: Make sure not to mess up all the wiring and hoses. After removing the air intake, you can reach the idle air valve. If you still cannot find it, you can refer to the vehicle’s manual.

Step 3: Remove All Clamps Connected to the IACV

Detach all clamps holding an IAC valve. Remove the old gasket (no need to scrape it as it is a metal gasket). In this step, you will find the throttle body, and your task is to place a small hole or passage inside.

Step 4: Clean the Idle Air Control Valve

Use a brush to remove dirt on the surface of the valve. When cleaning the inside of the valve, you will need specialized detergents like carburetor cleaners. Wipe or spray the inside of the triangular face to clean any deposits to ensure no carbon residue remains. Spray carburetor cleaner on the pointed end of the valve. Try not to get cleaners into the valve housing as this could cause damage.

Continue spraying the cleaners until you see that all carbon or debris has been removed. Remember that not all carbon cleaners are suitable for all vehicles and components. You should only use the products if you are sure they will not cause any harm. After completely removing the carbon, the air valve should be reassembled in the detached position, and the harness attached to its original position.

Step 5: Test by Starting Your Car

The best way to check your engine after completing the cleaning process is to let your car start and then idle for a few minutes. Once everything is properly reinstalled, you can now start your car and listen to how it idles. If dirt was a problem, you should now notice the improvement in sound, and your car will run smoothly. At that point, it means your mission is successful; otherwise, you will need to redo the above steps once more. After cleaning and it’s still not effective, it’s time to replace the idle valve. You should buy spare parts from reputable stores to avoid purchasing counterfeit or poor-quality products.

Here are some other frequently asked questions about an IAC:

How to Test an IAC Valve?

There are many ways to help you test the idle air control valve, such as starting your car, testing an IAC with a multimeter, an OBD scanner, or a voltage test light. We believe the simple method you can use to test the IACV is to turn on your car and listen to the engine idling. A fully functional valve will sound even and smooth, and you won’t notice any “bursts” of sound or speed. Additionally, you can use a multimeter, but this method will be a bit complicated.

You need to set the multimeter unit to Ohms, after that, place the red wire on one terminal of the IAC valve and place the black one on the other terminal. If your IAC valve is working properly, the resistance will range from 7 to 25 Ohms, depending on your vehicle. Any other number is a warning sign of a bad IAC valve. To learn more about the process of testing your IAC valve, you can read another article on our site:

What are the Symptoms of a Bad Idle Air Control Valve?

It is important to be aware of the symptoms of the idle air control valve when it goes bad. These include stalling, poor acceleration, increased RPM, or a check engine warning light on your dashboard. If you notice any of these signs, you should immediately test or check if your IAC valve has faults. It is important to know the recommended idle range to give the exact diagnosis because this data will depend on your engine type.

What Happens If You Unplug the IAC Valve?

You can absolutely unplug the IAC valve, and it should not cause damage if you unplug it while the engine is idling. However, the IAC valve plays an important role in maintaining airflow for combustion at idle. So there is a risk when removing this valve causing undesirable effects.

Final Thoughts

An IAC valve may not function properly because it is dirty and requires cleaning maintenance. During combustion, carbon and debris can deposit on the IAC valve, and this can accumulate over time. When contamination builds up inside the idle air control valve, the IAC can then become faulty and not function as it should. Cleaning all accumulated debris or contamination can help you get the IACV back into working order.

In this article, we explained how to clean the IAC valve by removing it. If you want to learn how to clean the idle air control valve without removing it, there will be several guides available online that you can refer to. Although the idle air control valve is designed to last the lifetime of your car, damage and debris can sometimes cause problems. Cleaning this valve is a very useful way to keep your car running efficiently.

Did you know that brake fluid colors are important signs that can tell you a lot about your vehicle’s condition? Many drivers worry when they notice that the brake fluid turns black or dark. What does it mean if the brake fluid is black? Let’s take a look at our article to find out the reasons behind this problem.

Why are brake fluids necessary for your car?

According to statistics, every 16,000 to 25,000 km, the driver presses the brake more than 75,000 times. This number has proven the importance of the braking system in your car. Therefore, to ensure the braking system works effectively, it is essential to check and maintain the car’s brakes, including adding car brake fluid.

Automotive brake fluid is a liquid formulated from highly refined base oils and versatile additives. This fluid is responsible for supporting the transmission of force from the brake pedal to the components of the braking system. In addition, brake fluid also has the important function of lubrication, preventing corrosion. And reducing friction which helps the braking system operate smoothly.

What color should brake fluid be?

It can be said that the brake fluid color is an essential indicator that tells you whether the brake fluid is in good condition or needs to be changed. Black brake fluid can be a warning that your car has a problem. However, before determining whether this is a normal phenomenon or not, you need to determine the color of the brake fluid. Currently, most brake fluids are manufactured according to DOT standards. This standard is determined based on the lowest boiling point and the brake fluid’s ability to maintain performance. There are 4 types of automotive brake fluid according to DOT standards: DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5, and DOT 5.1. DOT 3 and DOT 4 are the two most common types. Depending on the type of brake fluid your car uses, the colors will vary, including:

• DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are yellow in color.
• DOT 3: This type of fluid is only used for racing cars. DOT 3 is blue.
• DOT 5: This fluid has a purple color.

However, all you need to remember is that healthy brake fluid will be almost clear with a yellow tint. This color should resemble the color of the bottle before you initially pour it into the car’s reservoir.

Brake fluid is black: what does it mean?

If you open the car’s brake fluid reservoir and notice black or brown fluid. So what happened to your car? We are sorry to say that black brake fluid is a sign that your fluid is heavily contaminated. When this happens, the braking system’s ability to pressurize is reduced and braking performance can be affected. Furthermore, black brake fluid means the rubber seal has deteriorated and the fluid in the reservoir is too old and needs to be replaced. In fact, it turns out that the contaminants in the brake fluid attack the rubber seals and washers. The black color of the fluid corresponds to the carbon particles from the rubber pads.

Why does brake fluid turn black?

Many drivers have stated that black brake fluid was caused by its age. This is a true opinion. Like other fluids, brake fluid degrades after a long period and needs to be replaced. After some time, your brake fluid will accumulate enough contaminants and cause a color change. This change will go from clear/yellow to a darker yellow, and when the brake fluid is brown or black, it can seriously affect the braking system.

Inside the braking system is the brake fluid reservoir. From this reservoir, the brake fluid moves from the cylinder to the car’s wheels. If you press the brake frequently, the brake fluid will become contaminated faster. And even if you don’t drive that hard, due to its characteristic, your brake fluid will still accumulate contaminants over time.

The second cause of brake fluid discoloration is the deterioration of some parts of the braking system such as the rubber brake lines, the slave cylinder seal, or the wheel. Because brake fluid is corrosive. Even though the braking system components are designed to withstand such corrosion. If they are not maintained or serviced properly, these parts will show signs of wear. At this point, microscopic pieces and soot from the rubber will follow the path to enter the brake fluid. Discoloration as well as the reduction of the fluid’s efficiency.

Why is brake fluid easily contaminated?

Although the brake is a sealed system, vapor can still pass through the micro-holes in the rubber hose and the sealing ring. Meanwhile, car brake fluid is easy to boil due to its great ability to absorb moisture, leading to decreased brake pressure and poor braking efficiency.

Furthermore, in countries with humid climates. The details of the braking system are also prone to rust when the brake fluid “saturates” with water when the vehicle moves in rainy or flooded weather. In addition, lack of brake fluid or degraded oil is the cause of damage to the braking system such as strange noises, low pedals, a strong braking sensation, and the most extreme is the phenomenon of the car losing its brakes…

According to automotive experts, brake fluid contains corrosion inhibitors and antioxidants. Over time, the structure of these substances breaks down, leading to metal corrosion and the accumulation of deposits that disrupt the flow of brake fluid.

Can you drive when the brake fluid is black?

Black brake fluid is absolutely not a good sign. This color indicates that there is probably moisture that has seeped into your fluid and dramatically affects the quality of the fluid. The main function of brake fluid is to make your brake fluid more fluid. What will happen if the brake fluid loses this functionality? This is therefore the reason why many experts advise against driving your vehicle with black fluid. Although black brake fluid does not always trigger an alarm, using black fluid can cause serious problems.

This fluid content can corrode the steel components of your braking system and damage them. Brake fluid used for a long time without replacement will lead to corrosion of the wheel cylinders; the brake pedal is not effective; the brake pads are quickly damaged… Many parts and components are worn and damaged affecting the entire braking system and vehicle; even your own driving.

Furthermore, the boiling point of contaminated brake fluid will be lower than that of clean brake fluid, thereby reducing braking efficiency. When driving, using the brakes generates a large amount of heat. Therefore, traveling with dirty brake fluid, when the fluid boils, creates a large amount of foam and gas. Over time, the car’s brakes are damaged. This is very dangerous when you are driving on the road.

How often should you replace brake fluid?

Brake fluid can be contaminated by 2% water in the first 12 months and reach 7 to 8% after just 36 months. If you do not change the fluid in time, it can damage the braking system during operation.

According to manufacturer recommendations, brake fluid should be changed every 3 years or after 30,000 to 40,000 km. If the vehicle constantly moves in dusty and very humid conditions or uses the brakes continuously. The car owner can change the brake fluid earlier.

After that, you need to take your car to the mechanic to have it repaired to ensure everything is safe. To know exactly when to change the brake fluid, car owners can check the actual quantity and quality of the oil in the reservoir via the brake fluid sensor equipped on the vehicle or check it manually. In case of manual inspection, observe only from the outside. Do not open the lid to prevent air and moisture from entering. The color will reflect the quality of the oil. Standard brake fluid is clear or colorless; if it turns brown. This means the oil has severely deteriorated and needs to be replaced to protect the braking system.

Steps to change car brake fluid

When checking, if the oil level is low but the color is clear or yellow. The car owner just needs to add more oil to the reservoir. Brake fluid should be replaced when it shows dirt or turns dark brown. Basic tools for changing brake fluid include a suction system, a car repair kit, a car jack, brake cleaning spray, and grease for bolts and screws.

Step 1:

Remove the wheel and clean the car’s brake with a specialized cleaning solution.

Step 2:

Find the position of the top of the fluid hose and remove the rubber buttons that cover the outside of the hose. Proceed to place a plastic tube into the reservoir and open the drain valve to let the old fluid out. This method minimizes the return of air into the brake cylinder.

Step 3:

Insert a piece of wood so that the brake pedal does not come off too much when the oil pressure is released.

Step 4:

Open the brake fluid reservoir cap, use a straw to suck out all the used oil, pour in new oil, and close the reservoir cap tightly.

Step 5:

Hold the brake with a constant force, tighten the drain valve bolt, then loosen it a quarter turn to drain all the used oil. Then, retighten the bolts, remove the plastic tube, and install the rubber-covered buttons as before.

After completing the brake fluid change steps, the car owner starts the engine, presses and releases the brake pedal to check the stability of the braking system.

As the “lifeblood” of the hydraulic braking system. Brake fluid must be periodically maintained and replaced to limit brake degradation and prevent operational risks.

To maximize the efficiency of power transmission, car owners should choose a non-compressible brake fluid that can lubricate the brake calipers to help reduce corrosion and has high boiling points. It is recommended to use a specialized brake fluid specific to each vehicle model according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. This not only helps to maximize the efficiency of the car’s brake fluid but also ensures the lifespan of the braking system.

Knowing what the proper oil pressure should be can help you ensure that the car’s engine is running correctly and remains healthy. If you notice low oil pressure, the amount of oil supplied is not sufficient for lubrication, which will result in high-friction components in the engine wearing out quickly, becoming noisy, and easily increasing heat. This means that low oil pressure is a warning sign for your engine. Are there exceptions? Many drivers while driving cars have noticed that oil pressure drops at idle. So why? and what is normal oil pressure at idle?

What is Normal Oil Pressure at Idle?

Oil pressure is a vital indicator in car engines that you must consider. However, it will vary depending on certain factors: engine types and temperature. To know the exact oil pressure at idle, first, let’s take an overview of oil pressure.

What is Oil Pressure?

Automotive engine oils operate in the form of a circulation system. The oil is injected by the pump into the engine, then flows into the reservoir, then continues to be sucked through the filter and sprayed into the engine. Oil pressure is created by the pump pumping oil into the vehicle’s engine system. When the engine is running, normal oil pressure is typically between 25 and 65 PSI (depending on the vehicle model). Normal oil pressure always remains stable at this level. If the oil pressure suddenly increases or drops abnormally low, it is a sign that the lubrication system has problems.

Cars are equipped with an oil pressure sensor. If it detects that the oil pressure is too high or too low, the sensor will transmit a signal. And the ECU will illuminate the lubrication oil pressure warning light to inform the driver. When you see that the car has abnormally low or high oil pressure, it should be checked as soon as possible. Because the malfunction of the lubrication system will greatly affect the engine.

What Should Oil Pressure Be at Idle?

To ensure your car’s engine operates with the best performance. Car manufacturers recommend that the oil pressure should always be above 20 PSI (pounds per square inch) at idle. However, corresponding to each vehicle type, we will have different pressure levels:

• Truck: 20-30 PSI at idle
• Car: 25-35 at idle

Most car manufacturers suggest that the oil pressure should be around 30 PSI at idle and about 60 PSI when the engine is running at higher speeds. If you check that the oil pressure is below 20 PSI. If you notice that the oil pressure is below 20 PSI, you need to check it as soon as possible. As we all know, engine oil not only helps the moving parts of the engine to function correctly but also helps to cool them. If the pressure is too low, the engine will not be properly cooled and this can have serious consequences.

This difference in oil pressure will occur when the oil’s viscosity decreases due to heat. Most vehicle engines have an oil pump. The principle is to increase pressure with speed, so the engine runs higher and the result is that the oil pressure increases. This function ensures that your engine parts are sufficiently lubricated as they move faster and start generating more heat. When your car is idling, you do not need high oil pressure. 20-25 PSI is sufficient for most engines. Just make sure that the pressure will increase when your car increases its speed.

What Causes Low Oil Pressure at Idle?

If you notice that the oil pressure is too low at idle (below 20 PSI), it can be a symptom telling you that there is a problem with your car. If the oil pressure is below the standard level, the engine will not have the necessary amount of lubricant. This makes parts and components easy to wear and causes overheating and damage. As we know, oil pressure at high speed is about 60-70 PSI. Why is oil pressure low during idle operation – Let’s look for the causes:

The Car Lacks Engine Oil

Car oil shortage is the most common cause of oil pressure drop at idle. Because the amount of oil is not supplied to the engine, the oil pressure drops. To know exactly if this is the cause, check the available oil quantity with the dipstick. If you see that the oil quantity is too low, near or below the low level, that is the reason. There are several reasons why the car is low on oil, such as the car hasn’t been changed for a long time. Oil is leaking due to open pipelines, or worn crankshaft bearings…

Dirty Oil

Engine oil is responsible for cleaning the internal components of the engine. Therefore, over time, it will accumulate many impurities and residues. On the other hand, due to working in a high-temperature environment, the oil also gradually degrades. If the oil is not replaced periodically, it will become heavier and denser due to dirt (low viscosity) causing the oil pressure to drop or increase easily. Seriously affecting the efficiency of engine lubrication – cooling – cleaning.

The Oil Pump/Oil Filter is Damaged

If the pump system is damaged, if oil cannot be sucked normally, or if the filter is clogged, it will make it difficult for the oil to circulate. From there, leading to a low oil pressure error or loss of oil pressure. Therefore, you need to pay attention to choosing oil with the correct viscosity for your vehicle to avoid low oil pressure. Furthermore, it is also important to carefully learn about other oil specifications such as API, ACEA, etc., to buy the best product.

Oil Pressure Sensor Malfunction

Most cars today are equipped with an oil pressure sensor. If it detects a problem with the oil pressure (too low or too high), this device will send a signal to the ECU. The warning light then illuminates to remind the driver to correct the error. However, sometimes the sensor is dirty or damaged, so it sends the wrong signal, even if the oil pressure still maintains a stable level.

Using Oil with a Low Viscosity Index

The viscosity index (SAE) is a measure used to identify the density of the oil. More specifically, the lower the SAE, the thinner the oil will be. For example, Essenza high-displacement 10w30 oil will be thinner than 10w40 oil. If the viscosity index is too low, the oil is too fluid and the oil pressure in the engine is reduced.

How to Fix Low Oil Pressure at Idle?

To keep the engine in perfect operating condition, the oil pressure must be checked periodically and within the range recommended by the manufacturer. The oil will thicken and have higher pressure when the engine is cold. Whereas the oil pressure will decrease as the engine warms up. To ensure accuracy, we must check the oil pressure when the engine is at operating temperature.

Step 1: Check the Oil Level.

Open the hood and check the vehicle’s oil with the dipstick. If the oil in the car is still full and the oil pressure light is on, it means the car has other problems. If the oil level is below the marked position, at that time, the car is out of oil and needs to be replaced.

Step 2: Inspect the Oil Pressure Sensor.

Remove the sensor, insert the pressure gauge, and start the car. If the value returns to the standard oil pressure value, the sensor is faulty. If the return value is lower than the standard value. The sensor is still working fine, but the oil pressure is low for other reasons.

Step 3: Don’t Forget to Check the Oil Filter/Pump

Remove the oil filter and check that there is no debris. If there is, you need to clean it (or replace it if necessary). According to experts, the car’s oil filter should be changed approximately every 10,000 miles.

If the car has very low oil pressure or no oil pressure, check the oil pump drive belt.

Step 4: Check the Crankshaft Bushing

Check the condition of the crankshaft bearings. If signs of wear are detected, it is likely the cause of the oil leak, reducing oil pressure at idle. The solution, in this case, is to replace the crankshaft bearing with a new one, then add engine oil.

Final Thoughts: What is Normal Oil Pressure at Idle?

20-35 PSI is the answer to this question: What should my oil pressure be at idle? In this article, we have outlined the causes of low oil pressure at idle and how to check and fix it quickly. I hope this article has provided you with useful knowledge.

Diesel Engine Myths: “Diesel engines last so long.” This myth formed long ago, however, this question is constantly questioned and debated by many drivers. Why do diesel engines last longer than gasoline engines? Let’s break it down and compare diesel and gasoline engines. From there, we will answer the question and clarify it!

How does a diesel engine work?

For some car owners, diesel engines do not seem to be a smart choice. Noisy, smelly, and heavy are the characteristics that everyone seems to be able to highlight when mentioning diesel engines. However, it is undeniable that diesel engine cars are still highly valued, especially among experienced drivers. As part of this article, we will soon discover how diesel engines work to understand the idiosyncratic characteristics of this engine.

A diesel engine is a type of internal combustion engine, different from a gasoline engine. The combustion of fuel, i.e., diesel, occurs in the combustion chamber when the piston approaches top dead center during the compression stroke, which is a spontaneous combustion under the influence of high temperature and pressure of the compressed air.

In diesel engines, the operating cycle starts with pure air drawn into the cylinder, not an air-fuel mixture as in conventional gasoline engines. The piston’s movement compresses the air, heating it to a high temperature. When the piston gets closer to the top of the cylinder, fuel is injected under high pressure through the number of precisely machined holes in the tip of the fuel injectors. At this point, the fuel enters the engine in the form of a fine spray. Spontaneous ignition occurs without needing a spark and the rapid expansion of the combustion mixture increases the pressure in the cylinder, forcing the piston downward and powering your vehicle.

How long do diesel engines last?

If you want to buy a car with features such as reliability, robustness, and high lifespan, diesel engines might be a good choice for you. Why did we say that? Can you guess the average lifespan of a diesel engine? The truth has been revealed, vehicles equipped with gasoline engines can travel about 250,000 to 300,000 miles before needing a major overhaul or a brand new car. And you might be surprised to know that diesel engines can last up to a huge number: 1,500,000 miles before their performance decreases.

From this number, we can estimate that, if well maintained, diesel engines can run for about 30 years. Of course, the longevity of diesel engines will depend on many factors like any engine. How you maintain the engine, your driving styles, and other external factors… All these will determine the lifespan of diesel engines.

Why do diesel engines last longer than gasoline engines?

Based on the figures from the section above , how long does diesel last? You can see that diesel engines can last almost twice as long as gasoline engines if well maintained. As a result, diesel types are known for their longevity, with engines typically lasting longer than the rest of the vehicle. Why do diesel engines have such a big difference like that? Let’s find out:

Diesel fuel has very good lubrication

Diesel is a light oil and when burned and used as fuel by the vehicle. It lubricates the parts of your engine. Diesel is among the fuels that can only evaporate at high temperatures (ranging from 175 to 370 degrees Celsius), which helps limit engine wear during use. As we all know, gasoline is a solvent. Any gasoline that has not been burned tends to wash the oil off the cylinder walls, increasing wear. Diesel fuel is a light oil, it can reduce the viscosity of the lubricating oil, but not to the same extent as gasoline.

Because gasoline does not have the ability to lubricate very well (gasoline is considered an excellent cleaner), over time, it can increase the wear of your engine. Proven diesel fuel has better lubricating power above the piston rings in the combustion chamber. And the wear process in a cylinder occurs more slowly than in gasoline engines because diesel fuel is essentially a distilled fuel. Thanks to its exceptional lubricating properties, diesel engines have a better lifespan than gasoline engines.

Design of a diesel engine

This can mean there are many differences in the design of a diesel engine that will allow it to run longer than a gasoline engine. A diesel engine is a great example of engineering capability. The components of this engine are generally more durable than gasoline engine parts. The design of a diesel engine is gear-driven, so unlike other parts, the gear can be easily fixed and never lose its timing. In diesel cars, use gear-driven water and oil pumps to avoid the risk of major component failure. Whereas gasoline engines use timing belts, pumps, chains, and other components that can easily wear out and break frequently.

Furthermore, diesel engines have a fuel injector and also excellent self-cooling which will minimize the risks of overheating. Compared to gasoline engines, diesel engines are supposed to be 1.5 times more powerful. Because diesel engines often have a higher compression ratio, maintaining better operating efficiency over time. It is not uncommon for diesel vehicles to exceed the 1.2 million mile mark on the speedometer and still run smoothly.

Diesel engines operate at lower RPMs

If you own a car with a diesel engine, you will notice that the redline on the tachometer is much lower than the gasoline engine. The redline displayed on diesel engine gauges usually does not exceed 4500 RPM, this figure is only about half that of gasoline engines. Why does this happen? Diesel engines tend to have lower RPMs because they have a longer and heavier stroke. With larger strokes, they can produce a lot of torque. To clarify things, we will summarize 3 reasons why diesel engine RPMs are lower:

• Have a longer stroke length.
• Diesel engines are designed heavier.
• They are compression-ignited.

The higher the RPM, the more things break and wear out quickly. So we believe you had an explanation for why a low-revving engine typically lasts much longer than a high-redline engine, because the driver cannot rev the engine beyond 4500 RPM.

Unlike gasoline engines, diesel engines of the same displacement and same number of cylinders always dominate in torque, especially in the high-end. With a thicker inline-four-cylinder structure, the diesel engine easily achieves a torque of over 450 Nm from around 1,500 to 1,800 RPM. Meanwhile, to reach this level, the gasoline engine would have to switch to a 4.7-liter V8 (if it doesn’t use a turbocharger system), but also from 3,400 RPM or more, i.e., much later.

Is diesel better than gasoline?

From the above analysis, we can see that the diesel engine has a longer lifespan than the gasoline engine. So does that mean the diesel engine will be better than the gasoline one? Although they are more fuel-efficient and durable, diesel engines are still not the first choice for drivers. Why? Let’s briefly list a few advantages and disadvantages of diesel engines compared to gasoline engines:

Advantages of diesel engines over gasoline engines

• Diesel engines are safer because diesel does not ignite at normal temperature, so there is less risk of fire than gasoline engines.
• Furthermore, diesel engines are less prone to breakdowns than gasoline engines due to the absence of carburetors and spark plugs.
• At the same time, diesel engines have better load capacity than gasoline engines.

About the disadvantage:

• Compared to gasoline engines, diesel engines have a heavier weight and higher manufacturing costs due to their higher compression ratio, which requires more engine parts.
• Repairing diesel engine parts requires specialized machinery, high-quality tools, and highly skilled technicians.
• Because they are heavier and have a higher compression ratio, diesel engines often have a lower redline than gasoline engines. The result is that diesel engines have high torque instead of high power, resulting in slower acceleration.

The above disadvantages are only historical, explaining why diesel engines were not chosen by the majority in the first place. Currently, as technology develops, companies are gradually eliminating or limiting the above disadvantages, making diesel engines more suitable.

Therefore, one cannot claim “Is the diesel engine better than the gasoline engine” or vice versa. Based on the difference in operating principles between the two types of gasoline and diesel engines. You can make the decision to choose the right car for you. Because each version has its own strengths or limitations.

Useful tips to extend the lifespan of diesel engines

Although diesel engines are considered more durable than gasoline engines. For diesel engines to operate at maximum efficiency, drivers must follow maintenance guidelines:

Use the right diesel for your vehicle

Maintaining diesel engines has a few small differences compared to gasoline engines when changing oil for diesel engines. Drivers must change the correct type of oil according to the vehicle’s specifications to limit unnecessary damage. To know the right lubricating oil for your car. You can refer to the user manual or you can contact reputable maintenance centers. Where technicians will advise you on the best oil for your vehicle.

Periodically change the oil filter

Over time, dirt will accumulate and clog the oil filter. The consequence is that dust will follow the oil to the engine parts, directly affecting the engine’s operation. Therefore, periodic inspection and replacement of the fuel filter are essential. According to the manufacturer’s recommendations. You should periodically check the oil filter after 1 to 2 months of use or after 5,000 to 7,000 km. Depending on the engine’s operating level.

Clean the injectors after some time

For diesel engines, the injectors and lubrication systems must be cleaned periodically. The inside of the combustion chamber of diesel engines does not use spark plugs to ignite the fuel like a gasoline engine. Therefore, the fuel injector must always ensure that the injection is smooth and unobstructed to increase the direct ignition and explosion capability. With diesel cars, care must be taken to clean the injectors periodically every 20,000 km.

In addition to the above tips, there will be a few notes for you when driving a diesel car in cold weather. Before starting the engine, it is necessary to turn on the electric lock at the preheating stage. At this point, the glow plug will heat the oil inside the combustion chamber to thin the oil and prevent it from freezing. When the preheating light on the dashboard goes out, start the engine.

Final thoughts: Why do diesel engines last longer?

Reading this far, we will probably see that it is no longer a mystery. When we know that diesel engines have a significantly longer lifespan than gasoline engines. However, you will be surprised to know if a well-maintained diesel engine can travel over a million kilometers or more. Hopefully, with the information from our article, you will have the necessary information about diesel engines.

Transmission Flush vs Fluid Change: Are the Services the Same? We know that many drivers are still confused between these forms of fluid maintenance and don’t know which one will best suit the vehicle. We understand your concern and that’s why we want to delve deeper and highlight the differences between a transmission flush and a change to help you keep your transmission fluid always in good condition.

Transmission Flush: Everything You Need to Know

What is a Transmission Flush?

Transmission fluid is the compound that lubricates the machine’s parts and especially the gears inside the gearbox, helping the transmission to operate smoothly and stably. Additionally, it also has anti-wear and anti-rust effects. Maintaining the gearbox fluid at a stable level not only helps the car run better and more powerfully but also increases the transmission’s lifespan. Over time, due to high-temperature work, oil molecules break easily, the oil oxidizes, the oil quality is no longer the same, and lubrication capacity and cooling are reduced.

At this point, flushing the transmission fluid is a good action to take. The transmission flush is a maintenance process to remove 100% of the old transmission fluid, deposits, and dirt from a vehicle’s transmission and replace them with new fluid. The transmission fluid flush is designed to prevent transmission problems and ensure your vehicle’s proper operation. This process is as simple as cleaning the used fluid with fresh fluid to keep your transmission healthy.

When Do You Need to Flush Transmission Fluid?

According to the auto repair shop, drivers will need to flush the transmission fluid every 60,000 miles or every 3 years to keep their car in good condition. To know the exact time to flush the gearbox fluid, you can refer to the manufacturer’s instructions. In case your vehicle is equipped with a sealed transmission (no dipstick), you should still flush the fluid when the car has traveled 100,000 to 160,000 miles.

The second warning sign that tells you to flush your transmission fluid is when you notice the fluid turns brown or dark red on the dipstick because fresh transmission fluid is always red.

Gear slipping is also a wake-up call about the condition of your transmission fluid. If your transmission fluid contains excess dirt and contaminants, it can block the fluid flow, thus reducing hydraulic power. As a result, there may not be enough power to stay in gear.

Having difficulty shifting gears: Whether it’s a manual or automatic transmission. If the transmission has too much dirt or deposits in the fluid, the consequence will be a slow response when shifting gears. This may be a good time to flush the transmission fluid if the vehicle is slow to shift.

How Much Does Transmission Fluid Flush Cost?

Generally, the typical price range for a transmission flush with a pressure machine is $125 to $300. The cost depends on a number of items, including your car’s make and model, your location, the type of shop, the machine used by the machine, and any additional service.

It can take 30 minutes to flush the fluid if this job is done by an experienced mechanic. One thing that has a significant effect on the job cost is the amount of transmission flush required by your vehicle. The more fluid your vehicle needs, the higher the service price will be. Normally, transmission fluid will have a price ranging from $5 to $7 per quart, but some cars will require up to 16 quarts of fluid.

Should I Flush My Transmission Fluid?

Many debates revolve around the issue: is transmission flush good or bad? Many experts believe that flushing the transmission fluid will be a healthy activity for your transmission system. However, some people deny that the high pressure of the transmission fluid is actually bad for the vehicle because it creates a number of problems. They argue that the excessive pressure used to flush out older fluids tends to damage the internal components of the system. It removes contaminants to some extent, but whether it actually removes all contaminants is a matter of debate.

The question to ask yourself is: is transmission fluid flush good or bad? In most cases, flushing the transmission is fine! You want to replace 100% of the old contaminated fluid with new, fresh fluid. Especially when your fluid has more than 50,000 miles. If the transmission fluid set has expired, you can choose to change the fluid. Flushing a system has gone so far as to push debris into places inside the transmission where they don’t belong. And of course, this action will have a significant impact on your transmission fluid.

Transmission Fluid Change

What is a Fluid Change?

Changing transmission fluid is a simple process. All we have to do is drain a large amount of fluid from the pan, change a filter, and refill the fresh fluid into your pan at once. The big difference between a fluid change and a flush is that a fluid change will not replace all the transmission fluid in the pan with new fluid.

You can easily understand that you will need to change the transmission fluid if the fluid level is low or loses its viscosity. Using the dipstick, if your fluid is only darker than usual but has not burned or corroded completely, it’s a signal for you to change it. The recommended fluid change interval is about 30,000 miles and 60,000 miles. And every car will have different ways of telling you if you need to change the fluid.

Transmission Fluid Change Cost.

How much does transmission fluid change cost? The cost you will pay for a fluid change will range from $80 to $250 for manual and automatic transmission and the price will depend on each dealer or service center. And the average price will be estimated at around $100. Additionally, when changing the transmission fluid, we recommend replacing or cleaning the filter or pan. The price for filter replacement ranges from $15 to $30 and for gaskets from $75 to $150.

Changing Transmission Fluid: Is It Good or Bad for Your Car?

We will cover the question “Can a fluid change damage your transmission fluid?”, you may have heard but still don’t have an answer. A fluid change cannot damage your transmission components. Problems will start to occur when you change the fluid if your clutch has worn out or been damaged over time.

If you still replace the fluid after these parts have the wear signal. This can cause slipping. The old fluid contains particles that actually help with engagement, making it grittier to allow for a tighter grip. New fluids do not contain this substance and may not adhere firmly, causing slipping.

Transmission Flush vs Fluid Change: Which is Best for Your Car?

After reading the above analysis, should I do a transmission flush or change it? The selection of the appropriate method depends entirely on the condition of the transmission fluid as well as the car model. However, before making a decision, we would like to confirm that transmission fluid flush and a fluid change are two completely different services.

The main difference between these services is that changing the transmission fluid removes about 20% to 40% of the total fluid volume. During flushing, the fluid will remove most contaminants from the fluid with fresh, clean fluid. However, the ultimate goal of a fluid flush and a fluid change is also to improve the performance and lifespan of your transmission. To help you make the decision more easily, we will analyze a few pros and cons of these transmission services.

The Advantages of Transmission Fluid Flush.

• Many drivers believe that flushing the fluid can help remove dirt and materials from an engine, thus improving engine performance and lifespan. Old fluid can be left in the transmission during a fluid change, contaminating the new fluid and causing performance problems. The transmission flush will help you avoid this risk.
• The transmission flush will be performed less frequently (every 60,000 miles) whereas a fluid change typically occurs after 30,000-mile driving intervals.
• The flush will push all the old fluid out under pressure and run cleaner through the system to completely change the fluid. It’s an effective way to reset your transmission to its new original condition. This allows for optimal performance because the transmission only operates with fresh fluid.

Disadvantages of Transmission Fluid Flush

• The total typical cost you pay for a transmission flush can be almost double that of a fluid change.
• If your transmission has over 100,000 miles on it, flushing the fluid can strip the varnish and cause the control valve to stick
• Not a panacea: flushing transmission fluid is not an alternative to maintaining a good transmission. Flushing the gearbox cannot solve major problems caused by a lack of prior maintenance, such as delays and slipping.
• The fluid will move in the opposite direction of normal flow due to eddy currents during transmission fluid flushing. Which can lead to the risk of dislodging debris and causing it to settle in a place where it shouldn’t.

The Advantages of Changing Transmission Fluid

• You save a cost compared to flushing the transmission fluid. The average cost you pay for an oil change is typically $100, while flushing the fluid can be up to $150 or more.
• Periodically changing the transmission fluid according to the manufacturer’s guide. Especially once it has turned black, it is a good method to improve your fuel economy. Your transmission and car engine will run more easily after a fluid change.
• The transmission fluid change process is quicker and easier than flushing the fluid. Drivers can absolutely perform this procedure at home.

Disadvantages of a Fluid Change

• Old transmission fluid may still exist in the transmission system during a fluid change. Which will lead to contamination of the new fluid, thus reducing transmission performance.
• May not completely drain the buildup, which can lead to faster buildup in less time

What is Better?

A fluid change means a certain percentage of the old fluid remains in the transmission system (can be up to 50%). But a complete flush ensures that every part of the transmission gets rid of the old oil. So, what’s better for you?

Our advice for you: If you think you haven’t frequently maintained the transmission system in the past. A fluid change will be a better option for you. Because flushing the transmission fluid can cause debris or grime stuck in the fluid lines and even worsen the aging of rubber seals. Conversely, if your gearbox is regularly maintained, flushing the transmission fluid can help you remove all the old fluid from the pan.

Whichever method you choose to maintain your transmission system. Make sure the filter is changed or replaced and use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer. And the pan is dropped and check for any issues.

Bottom Line: Transmission Flush vs Fluid Change: Which is Best for Your Car?

It can be said that the gearbox plays a very important role in your car’s system. Therefore, choose the most appropriate maintenance method to improve operational efficiency. Whether you choose a transmission flush or a fluid change? We recommend referring to your own manual or seeking advice from manufacturers or service centers before making a decision. With the analysis in the article above. We believe it will help you choose an effective and cost-efficient transmission maintenance service.

During car operation, drivers must have encountered a situation: boiling coolant in the reservoir or bubbles in the coolant reservoir. What will happen to your car?

Our answer is: If you don’t act in time, it can damage your engine. So, if you’re looking for the reasons and how to handle the above phenomenon, this article is written for you.

Is Coolant Really Necessary for Your Car?

When the engine runs, the air-fuel mixture is burned in the engine cylinders, producing a huge amount of heat. However, only part of the heat is successfully converted and the rest is dissipated, causing the engine temperature to rise. If the engine temperature exceeds the allowed threshold, the oil won’t have a good lubricating effect, leading to increased friction and rapid wear and damage to machine parts.

That’s why your car needs coolant. Engine coolant is a liquid mixture of water and antifreeze located in a vehicle’s radiator. As its name suggests, coolant functions to “cool” your engine, thus contributing to smoother car operation. More specifically, coolant will limit engine overheating in hot climates and freezing in extreme cold. Additionally, this fluid can also prevent rust and corrosion of the parts it flows through, including the radiator, heater core, and pump.

If you’ve read this far, you probably know the importance of car coolant. When your car lacks coolant, your engine will definitely overheat and the temperature will rise during operation. This can cause an explosion, which is extremely dangerous. Stalling your car in the middle of the road in traffic. At the same time, it affects the car’s components.

What is the Boiling Point of Car Coolant?

Knowing the boiling point of antifreeze or coolant is very important for drivers. So when we talk about coolant or antifreeze, what is their boiling point? As we know, 212°F is the boiling point of pure water and it freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit. However, the boiling point of your car’s coolant is higher than water’s, coolant boils at temperatures between 300 and 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

When choosing coolant for your car, the important factor to consider is your country’s climate. If you are in cold weather, you should take coolant with a higher boiling point as it will help your engine not to freeze. Otherwise, in a hot climate, you can choose the coolant or antifreeze that has a lower boiling point. Make sure to check your manufacturer’s recommendations before deciding to buy the coolant or antifreeze.

Why is My Coolant Boiling in the Reservoir?

It’s an abnormal situation when your coolant boils during the driving process. Your car’s coolants will start to boil or bubble when the engine temperature rises above the boiling point level. We can say that all reasons for engine overheating can also lead to coolant boiling.

Diagnosing the cause early can help you minimize damage to your car. Some faults cause the coolant to boil in the reservoir, but the most common are the following:

Damaged Head Gasket

A head gasket has an essential role in sealing your engine’s combustion chamber so your car can perform compression to maintain engine power and avoid harmful emissions from combustion. However, the most important function is to prevent coolant from leaking elsewhere.

What happens If your head gasket is blown, a head gasket failure will cause your engine to run under extreme conditions with overheating because, at that time, it allows engine coolant, gas, and oil to mix. And when the temperature in the engine reaches a boiling point, it will make your coolant boil in the reservoir. If you notice white smoke coming from under the hood or the coolant light turns on, immediately check the coolant reservoir. Furthermore, when the head gasket fails, air can seep into the coolant reservoir and cause the bubbling phenomenon in your fluid.

Bad Cooling Fan

When the car is running, the excess heat generated during air compression, fuel combustion, and mechanical part friction must be dissipated. The car radiator fan’s role is to coordinate with the coolant to increase the engine’s cooling efficiency when the above heat is released.

If your cooling fan breaks due to a blown fuse, damaged wire, faulty fan clutch, or corrosion, it will make your coolant boil in the reservoir because the fan doesn’t provide sufficient airflow when your car stops. Regardless of the cooling fan configuration, its main goal is to cool the coolant. If it fails in one way or another, you may find your coolant boiling.

Faulty Thermostat

The main symptom of a bad thermostat is related to your engine overheating. This can be easily detected as your car’s temperature gauge may be abnormally high. Valves stuck in the closed position can be the reason for this situation. As a result, the coolant won’t be able to flow and will boil.

A thermostat’s function is to open and close at the correct intervals to regulate coolant entering and leaving the radiator. When this part doesn’t work properly, it won’t open at the exact time and will cause the cooling system to overheat.

Faulty Radiator Cap

The radiator cap is often overlooked in maintenance, but it’s considered a crucial element of the cooling system. A radiator cap is essentially a relief valve; when the coolant reaches a high temperature, the relief valve opens and ensures your cooling system remains under pressure.

When this cap is stuck, it doesn’t have the ability to maintain enough pressure to lower the coolant’s boiling point, causing inadequate heat absorption from your engine. The engine can also overheat due to air pockets in the coolant caused by the malfunctioning radiator cap and the rapid expansion of air at high temperatures. This will make the coolant boil in the reservoir.

Water Pump Not Working Properly

Water pumps typically last 100,000 miles or more on average, but given the fundamental role they play in regulating engine temperature. It’s the part that continuously injects coolant into the car’s engine to prevent the engine from overheating.

What happens if your water pump fails? It will cause your engine temperature to reach a dangerous level. This is usually indicated by a high engine temperature or an engine temperature warning light on the dashboard. At that point, the coolant becomes hot, boils, and emits white smoke while increasing the heat of the entire car.

Coolant Level

Driving with low coolant will create an airlock in your cooling system and create liquid foam. The airlocks will disrupt the cooling system’s flow, leading to engine overheating. You might notice the warning that your coolant level is low due to the light on your dashboard, but if you don’t, the common consequence is that your engine will start to boil and spew steam – this will result in more steam from your engine.

Clogged Radiator

When you notice your coolant starting to boil, remember to check the radiator. Like other car parts, radiators can also be affected by the consequences of wear and tear. Eventually, debris can get into the radiator and start to clog it. Remember, the radiator is very important for ensuring the proper functioning of the cooling system. So when your radiator gets dirty, engine overheating is the popular result, and of course, it will make the coolant temperature abnormally high.

How to Deal with Coolant Boiling in the Reservoir?

As we mentioned in the part above, there will be many reasons why your coolant boils in the reservoir. So, if you don’t identify the exact cause, it can lead to serious consequences for the engine. Therefore, you need to take the car to a mechanic to determine the cause of the coolant boiling and then repair it immediately. But if you want to know how to fix it, here are some fixes you can refer to.

Change the Bad Thermostat

When the thermostat is stuck, it prevents coolant from circulating in the engine to the radiator. In this case, replacing the thermostat is an unavoidable thing. Replacing or solving a bad thermostat problem can be a fairly easy task for most DIYers, while others don’t know where to start.

If you have good experience in car repair, you can replace the thermostat by yourself, otherwise you can entrust your car to a trusted mechanic. The cost of replacing a thermostat ranges between $70 and $450, depending on your car model and labor costs. A thermostat costs about $20 to $50, and factory labor costs between $50 and $400.

Fix an Air Pocket in the Reservoir

You can easily fix the problem by properly filling it with coolant. At the same time, when changing the coolant, used air is trapped inside the reservoir, causing air bubbles and making the coolant temperature rise. Therefore, to ensure there is no air in the reservoir, start the engine with the radiator cap closed. This will help remove air from your reservoir.

Replace the Faulty Radiator or Radiator Cap.

You can check the radiator cap with a pressure tester. If the pressure drops during the test, try cleaning the cap and test again. If it still gives the same results, you need to replace the radiator cap immediately. Replacing the cap can be easy to do, generally, the radiator cap is quite cheap and you can buy one at any repair center, but make sure you have the correct pressure rating.

When well maintained, the radiator can last up to 8 to 10 years. However, when you notice the bubble or coolant boiling, you need to inspect or replace your car’s radiator. A clogged radiator can make your coolant overheat and may eventually boil, which can damage the engine.

To solve this problem, you can clean the external fins annually and flush them according to the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule. When the radiator is beyond repair, you need to change this part. Unfortunately, radiators are expensive equipment and often a labor-intensive process. The cost of radiator replacement ranges from $182 to $921.

Final Thoughts

We are sure drivers had the desired answer to the question Why is my coolant reservoir boiling? So, if you encounter this situation while driving, you need to stop and turn off the car as soon as possible to avoid further damage. Hopefully, the information we share about the cause and solution of this phenomenon will help you drive safely.

The need for speed is something countless car owners and enthusiasts are obsessed with. Even those who already own fast cars try to squeeze maximum performance out of them. From mild to wild, there are a variety of ways to add extra power to your vehicle. Learn over 20 methods to increase horsepower, including highly effective but expensive methods as well as simple and affordable solutions.

Fun Fact: The Origin of “Horsepower”

Horsepower is a measure of the rate at which work is done. Where does the term horsepower come from? Exactly what the word suggests: horses, and a man named James Watt, who used to observe mill horses walking in circles all day, powering the mills.

The origin of the term dates back to when James Watt invented a steam engine that he believed would be at least 200 times more powerful than the horse mill, but he found it difficult to explain to the millers how powerful the steam engine was compared to their horses. So he developed a formula to measure the workload, based on the estimate that a mill horse would pull/push the mill shafts in a 24-foot circle with a force of 180 pounds 144 times in an hour.

He then did further calculations to prove that such a workload meant a mill horse could push 32,572 pounds (rounded to 33,000 pounds) a horizontal distance of one foot in one minute. This equals the power of one horse.

Therefore, horsepower measures the power a horse gives when pulling, or more precisely, the power required to lift 550 pounds in one second a vertical distance of one foot, or the power required to move 33,000 pounds in one minute a horizontal distance of one foot.

Factors to Consider When Trying to Increase Horsepower

A major concern for many car owners is how aftermarket modifications affect a vehicle’s warranty. It is always best to discuss with your dealer how installing aftermarket performance parts might affect your warranty.

Indeed, car manufacturers are not thrilled about owners trying to re-engineer their vehicles, which cost a lot of time, money, and intelligence to optimize for aesthetics, performance, and safety. In some cases, some car manufacturers allow the installation of in-house performance parts when installed by an authorized dealer.

Another aspect you need to consider before tuning your car with aftermarket performance parts is emissions regulations. Many countries and states, like California in the U.S., require certain aftermarket performance parts to comply with emissions standards for the vehicle in question to be considered road-legal.

While you might choose to install non-compliant parts, it could compromise your ability to pass emissions tests. Therefore, you should spend some time checking your local emissions laws before choosing certain engine performance parts.

Finally, you need to be aware that your vehicle, as it left the factory, was already optimized as a whole, and any modification to one part can make other components less effective. While modifications like an exhaust or intake might have minimal impact on the vehicle’s overall performance and safety, more significant modifications like a supercharger can significantly alter fuel economy or the vehicle’s long-term reliability.

Therefore, consider any trade-offs you might be making when making modifications for better power. Also, be prepared that when you opt for a drastic upgrade like a supercharger, you will most likely need to spend a lot of money to get many other parts upgraded as well as a complete kit so as not to sacrifice your car’s overall efficiency, drivability, and safety.

How to Increase Horsepower: Effective but Expensive Methods

We will start our list of over 15 methods on how to increase horsepower with the most effective upgrades offering immediate and notable power gains.

If your vehicle’s engine is naturally aspirated, forced induction will provide a considerable power increase. Forced induction is one of the most effective ways to increase horsepower. Forced induction can take the form of a turbocharger or a supercharger. These upgrades are popular with performance enthusiasts and street racers, and you might have seen one in one of the Fast and Furious movies.

This is one of the most expensive engine enhancement modifications, so feel free to skip it if you are on a budget. But if you can afford it, then go for it blindly with this mod because a good supercharger will increase your horsepower by up to 625+ and your torque by up to 525+ lb-ft. Such numbers are surely staggering given you’re only getting one set of upgrades.

Before determining if this mod is worth it, you need to understand the basics of superchargers and turbochargers.

To help the engine generate more power, two things are needed: more air and more fuel drawn into the engine’s combustion chamber. It’s worth noting that a specific ratio is needed for the engine to operate: 14 parts air to one part fuel.

The air pumped into the combustion chamber is ordinary air at atmospheric pressure. Compression occurs later with the work of the piston, which rises to compress the air-fuel mixture, thus creating a “vacuum.”

The supercharger/turbocharger increases air intake simply by compressing the air to a pressure higher than atmospheric pressure before pumping it into the combustion chamber. With more air intake, more fuel can be pumped into the combustion chamber for the engine to burn to create more energy.

As mentioned above, an important reminder: since adding forced induction puts more stress on your engine and transmission, you may need to make additional modifications to handle such extra strain, like a stronger clutch or cooling system. This varies by each vehicle model, so you should consult a professional on what needs to be done.

Supercharger

Forced induction systems compress the air flowing into your engine. By “forcing” more air, the engine can burn additional fuel to produce more power. Later, you will encounter a few more aftermarket parts that also increase engine power through the same general mechanism.

A supercharger can add on average 46% to 50% more horsepower and 31% more torque, the rotational or twisting power of a car (as opposed to linear power like a push or pull).

While trying to increase horsepower, remember that this measure is mathematically related to torque. Torque is a crucial measure of an engine’s power, as it represents the load an engine can handle to generate a certain amount of power to turn the engine on its axis. Horsepower equals torque multiplied by RPM (revolutions per minute), divided by a constant. Because there is usually a limit to how fast you can spin an engine, higher torque allows for greater power at lower RPMs.

Compared to their cousin the turbocharger below, superchargers are easier to install and give you a more instant power surge when you step on the gas. This is because they are powered by a belt connecting directly to the engine at the intake. So, when the engine turns, a supercharger immediately gets to work.

This belt-drive characteristic makes them more effective on six-cylinder engines, as opposed to four-cylinder engines. They also do not require an intercooler as an indispensable supplementary modification, so you will encounter fewer overheating or breakdown issues.

Turbocharger

A turbocharger “recycles” energy from the exhaust flow to propel itself, so compared to superchargers, they are extremely efficient. However, due to the nature of this mechanism, there will be a delay or “turbo lag” before you can notice a power increase. This lag during spool-up means there is no instant response like with a supercharger.

With a turbocharger, you are typically looking at a 25% horsepower increase, although the peak power can be higher than a supercharger’s in some cases.

Nitrous

Essentially a portable supercharger/turbocharger, this upgrade is another favorite from Fast-and-Furious. It is also expensive, but it is considered by many to be more advantageous than a supercharger/turbocharger due to its portability. This might be the most appealing feature, even the deciding factor, as you can carry the kit from one car to another without losing your considerable investment.

Being another mod that deals with the air your engine “breathes,” Nitrous is like a can of “air maker.” It essentially creates more air for combustion in the engine, thus generating more power from those combustions.

Note that this engine enhancement is illegal in many countries and states, so check your local regulations carefully before making the investment, and a fairly significant investment at that. A Nitrous kit can cost you from $900 to over $3,000. On the positive side, however, they can be used to support a turbocharger or supercharger to reduce turbo lag and increase the final power boost.

Performance Chips/Aftermarket Software

For almost all factory turbo cars, a performance chip or tuner is by far the best bang for your buck when it comes to getting more power and efficiency from your vehicle. Pair one of these performance chips with other modifications on this list, and your beastly machine will be spitting fire in no time.

In addition to power, these tuners can also improve throttle response, fuel economy, towing power, gear ratio, air intake index, and more. Some chips are designed primarily to unlock the engine’s hidden power, which would require more fuel, while others are designed to increase your vehicle’s fuel consumption by optimizing other parameters.

One of the purposes of factory-installed chips, or the Engine Control Unit (ECU), is to ensure everything operates within specifications to comply with emissions regulations. From the factory, the ECU is often tuned conservatively to allow for lower-quality fuels and to minimize stress on the engine’s internal components. You can alter these specifications with the aim of optimizing power by installing a performance chip.

A performance chip is aftermarket software, also called a “flash,” and installing a performance chip is also referred to as “reflashing your car’s computer.” It is designed to take full advantage of your engine by adjusting ignition timing to smooth out the power delivery, which would often require higher-quality gasoline to do the job.

Furthermore, they also allow you to easily modify the air-fuel ratio and turbo boost, giving an instant power increase without you having to get under the hood and get your hands dirty. Just connect the chip to the OBD-II port to access the information.

These small kits allow for more power, torque, and even better gas mileage. Depending on the engine, you can see fairly significant power gains. This is a modification often done in conjunction with a turbocharger or supercharger, as the aftermarket software also allows the turbocharger to produce more boost pressure, which equals more engine power.

An important reminder is that if you choose to install a performance chip, make sure to buy from a reputable tuner, as engines are very sensitive to changes. Also note that software upgrades are often available in stages, where at each stage, you will need to select the upgrades that best suit your engine’s current setup.

How to Increase Horsepower: Air-Related Methods

You might have noticed a recurring theme by this point: an effective way to increase horsepower has a lot to do with air, and more specifically, as you will see later, with both the air your engine “inhales” and the air it “exhales” as exhaust.

Essentially, your car’s engine is a big air pump with a series of deliberate combustions that push as much air as possible in and out of it for optimal power. Ultimately, the faster, more efficiently, and cleaner your car can inhale and exhale, the more potential you have for power gains.

In other words, if you want to increase horsepower, you will essentially need to find different ways to provide air in a larger volume through your engine, and cleaner air, while helping your engine exhale more easily. More air means the engine will burn more fuel, and burning more air-fuel mixture means more power generated from the combustions.

The engine enhancement mods below will deal with air intake and exhaust to achieve this overall goal.

Velocity Stack

A velocity stack, also called intake trumpets, is a trumpet-shaped aftermarket part that is mounted on the air inlet of an engine’s intake system, the carburetor, or the fuel injector to improve airflow.

Velocity stacks improve airflow into the engine’s combustion chamber in three ways.

First, the trumpet shape smooths the airflow into the intake, allowing as much air as possible to flow through the given volume of the intake. Second, they smooth the airflow rushing into your intake, and smoother airflow means more air is flowing at any given time. Finally, these small devices purify the air and prevent carburetors without a plenum from vomiting fuel and catching fire.

Although this upgrade is simple and affordable, a properly tuned intake velocity stack would only add about a 3% power gain on average as a standalone installation, so it is usually done with other engine enhancements.

Why are these intake trumpets also installed on the carburetor or fuel injector? Quick recap. A carburetor was the most common and basic way for older car engines to get fuel, before the age of fuel injectors or fuel pumps. It mixes air and fuel before being drawn into your engine.

High-Performance Air Filter and Intake

Another quick, cheap, and easy way to increase your engine’s power, also used as a support module, is to replace your air filter with a high-performance filter. It allows your engine to breathe cleaner air, smoothes airflow, and thus gives a small amount of extra power.

Keep in mind that you need to check your state’s regulations as not all performance air filters are legal in all countries and states.

High-Performance Cold Air Intake

As mentioned above, the colder the air, the denser it is, meaning there is more air in a given volume. For this same reason, you might notice that a balloon may seem to deflate when you take it outside in cold weather, or your car’s tires seem to lose air in winter (the opposite is true, which is why it is recommended not to overinflate tires in hot weather, as they could burst due to hot, less dense air).

In other words, if you can somehow make the air entering your car’s engine denser, there will be more air molecules present to mix with the fuel to ignite for power production.

A high-performance cold air intake does exactly that. Cold air intakes draw colder air into the engine from outside the vehicle. High-performance cold air intakes are equipped with special filters that reduce resistance and unwanted turbulence that would otherwise prevent a steady airflow to the engine. In addition to smoothing airflow, these filters also increase the surface area from which air is drawn into the engine, sometimes up to three times larger than your standard factory air intakes.

Intercooler Kit

As above, an intercooler kit is often installed to complement a turbocharger. Similar to a high-performance cold air intake, installing an intercooler kit will also make your engine breathe more air. It does this with the same mechanism: cooling the air supplied to the engine to condense it.

An intercooler, or “charge air cooler,” is an air-to-air or air-to-liquid heat exchange device used on turbocharged and supercharged internal combustion engines to improve their volumetric efficiency by increasing the intake air charge density through isochoric cooling.

Simply put, a heat exchanger is a device designed to efficiently transfer or “exchange” heat from one matter to another. When a fluid is used to transfer heat, the fluid can be a liquid, such as water or oil, or can be moving air.

Basically, an intercooler uses air from the atmosphere, circulating it over and around many finned tubes to remove heat from the intake air charge, meaning it reduces the temperature of the air that has been pressurized by the supercharger/turbocharger flowing through the intake tubes.