How to Clean a Catalytic Converter

If your vehicle is equipped with a functioning catalytic converter, it significantly reduces pollution and your carbon footprint. Catalytic converters transform carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons, nitrogen oxides, and other engine exhaust emissions into less harmful compounds, so they don’t harm you or the environment.

To keep your car eco-friendly and operating under optimal conditions, you need to know when and how to clean a catalytic converter.

What Causes a Catalytic Converter to Clog?

Over time, catalytic converters accumulate carbon deposits that reduce their efficiency. This is usually due to a rich air-fuel ratio for too long. When this happens, your vehicle will show symptoms such as:

• Error code P0420 indicating the vehicle’s computer detects a catalytic converter problem
• Exhaust fumes that smell like rotten eggs
• Reduced engine performance and acceleration
• Black exhaust smoke
• High temperatures under the vehicle

In most cases, cleaning the catalytic converter will also clear the P0420 code and other symptoms. If you want to do the cleaning yourself, you can use one of two methods. One involves removing the converter first, while the other does not.

Before getting into how to clean a catalytic converter, you can avoid these causes of catalytic converter clogging:

• Driving on rough roads breaks the ceramic catalyst honeycomb in the catalytic converter. The broken pieces can clog the system.
• Oil or antifreeze can leak into the exhaust system. When heated, the leak turns into thick exhaust fumes and soot that clog it. A leak can occur due to the vehicle’s age, broken seals, irregular maintenance, or adding too much engine oil.
• Driving only short distances won’t heat your catalytic converter enough to burn off the engine hydrocarbons that enter it. These hydrocarbons will accumulate until they clog the system.

Can a clogged catalytic converter be cleaned? Yes, and we will help you save time and money by showing you two ways to do it yourself.

Cleaning Method No. 1 (Without Removal)

Our first method for cleaning a dirty catalytic converter does not require disassembling it or getting dirty and is inexpensive. This method also cleans your exhaust system, as well as your fuel system and oxygen sensors.

That said, this technique will not work if the exhaust system is too dirty or if you have a broken catalyst honeycomb.

To check if this cleaning method will work for you, tap the converter with a mallet or wrench. Hit it hard enough to shake it, but not so hard that you dent or break it.

If you hear rattling inside, you may have broken components or heavy sediment, which you can only fix by removing and cleaning the converter.

If you don’t hear any strange sounds, proceed as follows:

1. Get fuel and enough catalytic converter cleaner. Purchase fuel in a can and a high-quality catalytic cleaner compatible with your vehicle. Some cleaners only work with diesel or gasoline engines, while others work with both.
2. Pour the cleaner into your fuel tank. The cleaner’s label will contain all the instructions you need regarding how much to pour and how much fuel you should have in the vehicle.
3. Take a drive. After adding the solution, start your engine and drive your vehicle. Driving will circulate the cleaner to clean your exhaust system. The cleaner’s label will indicate how long you need to drive for the best results.

We recommend driving at an RPM above 3000 so the catalytic converter gets hot enough to burn off blockages and residue.

With an automatic transmission, it’s a good idea to switch it to “Sport” or another mode. With manual shifts, simply keep it in each gear a bit longer before shifting to the next.

Keep an eye on your vehicle’s temperature gauge to ensure it doesn’t overheat. If the cleaning process is successful, you’ll notice less exhaust smoke, faster acceleration, and fewer engine misfires.

Cleaning Method No. 2 (Removal)

If the first method doesn’t yield the expected results, the dirt in your exhaust system requires removing the catalytic converter to clean it.

The process is simple with the right knowledge and tools, but as with other exhaust components exposed to the elements, loosening the bolts is usually the hardest part of the job.

To get started, you will need:

• Automotive degreaser
• A large container for soaking the converter
• Penetrating oil, such as B’laster or WD-40
• Floor jack
• Jack stands
• A wrench that fits the converter bolts (or better yet, an impact wrench)
• Oxygen sensor wrench
• Pressure washer

Once you have everything you need, proceed as follows:

1. Let the vehicle’s exhaust system cool down before starting.
2. Lift the car until it’s high enough to slide under easily. Use the jack stands to keep the vehicle in position.
3. Remove the oxygen sensor(s) using the oxygen sensor wrench.
4. Locate the converter and apply penetrating oil to loosen the bolts. If the catalytic converter is welded or attached to the turbo, let a professional mechanic do the cleaning.
5. After loosening the bolts, remove the converter and inspect it. A loud rattle when you shake it means its internal components are in pieces and you need a new catalytic converter.
6. If there is little or no rattling, clean the converter body, then pressure wash its interior on low settings.
7. After pressure washing the inlet and outlet pipes, fill a container with hot water and degreaser.
8. Soak the converter in hot water and degreasing solution for up to one hour.
9. After soaking, rinse the device with the pressure washer set to low, then let the device drain until dry.
10. Once the system is dry, reinstall it along with the oxygen sensor(s). Then, take the car for a drive to see if it improves.

Does Cleaning Always Work?

If you don’t see improvement after cleaning the catalytic converter with either method, you need to get a replacement converter. Getting a replacement is expensive, but it keeps your vehicle legal and efficient.

Additionally, cleaning may not work in case of internal oil or coolant leaks. These areas will continue to leak into the hot converter and cause thick smoke and soot that clog the system. Signs of leaks include broken valve seals, damaged piston rings, or crankcase ventilation blockages.

What NOT To Do

To avoid damaging your catalytic converter during cleaning, avoid the following:

• Soaking the component in grout-eating gel, bleach, or similar corrosive chemicals that can damage the catalyst
• Pouring lacquer or paint thinner into your gas tank
• Using a catalytic converter incompatible with your vehicle
• Trying to saw off a welded catalytic converter yourself, as you will damage the vehicle or injure yourself

Use these methods to help you learn how to clean a catalytic converter yourself. If you have questions, ask us in the comments.

On certain occasions, a particular view will catch the attention of an attentive vehicle owner. Those who are meticulous in maintaining their vehicle seem to know when something is wrong and deserves further examination. Although what is observed often turns out to be of little concern, there are times when a person’s findings prove to be a sign of a larger problem.

Read on to learn more about the root causes of the sudden appearance of fine metal chips and metal flakes in a vehicle’s oil, as well as how to handle such a situation should it occur in the future.

Is It Normal to Have Metal Shavings in Oil?

Although the engine oil of almost every vehicle contains microscopic metal particles, these particles should never be visible to the naked eye. The only exception to this rule is when these particles cling to a magnetic drain plug or other polarized objects. However, even then, these particles should be rare in nature.

The sudden accumulation of metal particles in a motor’s lubricating oil should never be considered “normal.” On the contrary, this anomaly often indicates that something is wrong with the internal components or the rotating assembly of an engine.

What Does Having Metal Shavings in Oil Indicate?

The sudden accumulation of metal shavings in an engine usually indicates accelerated wear of bearings or other reciprocating surfaces. As metal erodes away from these components, it deposits into a motor’s oil, where it accumulates before being discarded during routine maintenance.

Unfortunately, once one or more bearings in an engine have begun to wear at an accelerated rate, irreversible damage has already been caused. This wear pattern usually continues and progresses over time. In most cases, metal shavings will be present at every subsequent oil change.

How Serious is This Problem?

The problem with accelerated bearing wear is that it is an endless cycle. Due to the wear of an engine’s main, connecting rod, and camshaft bearings, their clearances increase beyond those specified by the manufacturer. These clearances are vital for engine operation, as they are directly related to an engine’s ability to maintain proper oil pressure.

Over time, worn bearings no longer maintain pressure in the same way they did when new, thus allowing oil to pass through without resistance. This often leads to a noticeable drop in oil pressure.

Due to this reduction in oil pressure, an engine’s bearings are then deprived of vital lubrication. This complicates matters exponentially and can lead to multiple bearing failures in a short amount of time.

In severe cases, a knocking or ticking noise may be heard during engine operation, which largely indicates bearing failure at a later stage, as well as a lack of oil at the upper end of the engine.

Will an Oil Filter Catch Metal Shavings?

Although an oil filter is excellent at capturing a large percentage of metallic contaminants in an engine’s oil, it is far from infallible. Generally, an oil filter will capture the vast majority of large metal shavings circulating in an engine. However, many metal particles are too small for an oil filter to capture.

As a result, these microscopic particles continue to pass through an engine’s bearings, somewhat acting as an abrasive along the way. Over time, this can further accelerate bearing wear, especially if an engine’s oil is not changed at the factory-recommended service interval.

When an engine’s health is in question, a further examination of a used oil filter can also prove useful. In these situations, many mechanics will carefully cut open the cartridge portion of an oil filter to reveal its internal paper element.

This element can then be inspected for metal fragments and shavings, thereby providing clues about the overall health of an engine’s bearings and wear surfaces.

What To Do If You Find Metal Shavings in Your Engine Oil

Discovering metal shavings in your engine oil is certainly concerning and should not be taken lightly. In all cases, further diagnostics will be necessary.

In most cases, this will involve removing the engine’s oil pan and bearing caps to carefully inspect the bearing surfaces for wear. If surface scarring or accelerated wear of any kind becomes apparent, a much larger issue is at hand.

Unfortunately, an individual’s options are limited when faced with rapidly deteriorating bearings in an engine’s rotating assembly. In most cases, engine removal and overhaul will be necessary. This can become a rather expensive undertaking, to say the least, with these repairs often exceeding the total value of many older, high-mileage vehicles.

Alternatively, some might find it cheaper to locate a replacement engine from a junkyard, as the cost associated with this operation is often less than overhauling a vehicle’s current engine. This can be particularly advantageous if you are up to the task of replacing the vehicle’s engine yourself, thereby eliminating labor costs.

What About Metal Flakes in Your Transmission Fluid?

Unlike a vehicle’s engine oil, one can expect to observe some degree of metal shavings in their transmission fluid. This tends to be especially true if a vehicle has gone a long period of time without having its transmission oil changed.

These observable metal shavings are usually the product of normal internal gearing and are unlikely to indicate anything outside of normal wear. In fact, most transmission pans contain magnets to catch this debris.

However, one should keep an eye out for large metal flakes that are large enough to be pinched between your fingers or are sharp on their edges. Metal flakes of this type often indicate impending problems due to abnormal wear. This is an issue that should be diagnosed in more detail by a transmission specialist.

Manufacturers have equipped today’s vehicles with sensors for just about every component. But the crankshaft position sensor is one of the first sensors that manufacturers started installing in vehicles, and it’s not hard to understand why.

It’s one of the most essential sensors in your vehicle, and if it goes bad, you can witness significant problems almost immediately.

But what is a crankshaft position sensor and how do you know if you need to replace it? Just keep reading about crankshaft position sensor symptoms and we’ll explain everything you need to know.

What is a Crankshaft Position Sensor?

The crankshaft position sensor does exactly what its name implies; it tracks the position of your engine’s crankshaft. It then transmits this information to the ECU, which uses it to track engine timing and a litany of other functions.

Since your engine’s crankshaft position is directly correlated to the position of each of your engine’s pistons, it’s one of the most useful inputs your computer has to determine when to apply fuel and maximize engine efficiency and timing.

Common Crankshaft Position Sensor Symptoms

Your crankshaft position sensor is essential, which is why you need to know it’s in good working order. Fortunately, there’s not much to watch out for as manufacturers have made these systems fairly self-contained.

But if you experience any of the following symptoms, you need to get your vehicle checked out as soon as possible.

Check Engine Light

This is by far the most common symptom of a faulty crankshaft position sensor. In fact, even if you’re experiencing the other symptoms, you should still see a check engine light. If you’re not, you’re likely experiencing more than one problem, as your vehicle isn’t self-diagnosing properly.

However, just because you have a check engine light doesn’t mean you have a faulty crankshaft position sensor. Check engine lights come on for a litany of different problems, which is why as soon as your check engine light comes on, you should read it to get a clearer picture of what’s going on.

Most parts stores like AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts will check your code for free and offer a printout of the most likely problem.

Excessive Engine Vibrations

Your vehicle’s ECU works with the crankshaft position sensor to determine engine timing. If the timing is off, you’ll often experience excessive engine vibrations because the cylinders are firing at the wrong time. Not only can this make your engine shake, but it can also cause significant damage that can end up destroying your engine.

Engine Misfires

It’s all about timing. If your engine is trying to fire in cylinder two while injecting fuel into cylinder four, nothing will happen. Of course, when its four cylinders do fire, you might get double the fuel, leading to all sorts of problems. With a faulty crankshaft position sensor, you’ll likely get an engine that runs terribly.

Sluggish Engine Response

Sometimes the crankshaft position sensor is just a bit slow as it starts to fail. If that’s the case, fuel injection and overall engine timing will be just a step behind. While this will make your engine run terribly, the most important thing you might notice is that you’ll have a sluggish engine response.

But the longer the problem persists, the worse it will get. The longer you wait to replace the sensor, the more likely you are to cause additional damage as well.

Engine Stalling / Backfiring

If your crankshaft position sensor is completely out of whack, you might struggle to keep the engine running. Even if you do get it running, the poor engine performance might assail you with a ton of backfires, and you might even struggle to start it.

If your faulty crankshaft position sensor has reached this point, you need to stop trying to run your engine immediately and replace the component as soon as possible. If you continue to run the vehicle with an excessively faulty crankshaft position sensor, further damage will occur.

Can You Drive with a Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor?

As a general rule, you can drive short distances with a faulty crankshaft position sensor. However, the longer you drive with a faulty sensor, the more likely you are to cause additional damage. Worse yet, the longer the sensor is broken, the more likely it is to fail completely.

If you have a completely broken crankshaft position sensor, you’ll struggle to keep your vehicle running and further damage will occur.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Crankshaft Position Sensor?

When it comes to sensors, crankshaft position sensors are relatively inexpensive. If you’re looking to replace the sensor yourself, you might be able to get one for as little as $50, depending on what you drive. At the other end of the scale, more expensive crankshaft position sensors can cost up to $150.

Meanwhile, if you’re paying for a mechanic to replace the sensor for you, labor costs typically range from $100 to $150. So overall, it will typically cost you between $150 and $300 for a mechanic to replace your crankshaft position sensor and between $50 and $150 if you do it yourself.

How Hard Is It to Replace a Crankshaft Position Sensor?

If you can replace the sensor yourself, you can save over $100, but how hard is it to replace?

In truth, the answer depends on what you drive. Sometimes the sensor is easily accessible, and other times you’ll need to remove several components just to reach it. However, if you can access the sensor, it’s easy to replace. Below is a step-by-step guide to replacing the sensor yourself and saving $100.

1. Disconnect the Battery

Before handling any electrical components of your vehicle, you need to disconnect the battery. This is because your vehicle has tons of electrical components. As soon as you start plugging and unplugging components, the risk of a power surge from static electricity on different systems always exists.

A quick electrical surge can cost you hundreds of dollars. Play it safe and disconnect the negative battery terminal and let it sit for at least 10 minutes before continuing.

2. Locate the Sensor

If you haven’t located the sensor yet, now is the time to do so. It will be located towards the bottom of your engine. If you can’t find it, a quick Google search should highlight its position for you. It might not be easy to reach and you might need to remove several other components to access it, but the less you remove, the better.

3. Unplug the Electrical Connector

Crankshaft position sensors have quick-disconnect electrical connectors that power them. Disconnect the wiring by releasing the pull tab and gently pulling on the connector. Make sure not to pull on the wiring as you don’t want to cause additional damage.

4. Remove the Mounting Bolt

Once you’ve disconnected the electrical connector, you’ll need to remove the mounting bolt holding the sensor against the engine. Typically, it’s just a single bolt and the exact size varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. It’s not uncommon to see mounting bolts that also use Torx bits or hex head sockets.

5. Remove the Sensor

Once you’ve removed the mounting bolt, you can gently remove the sensor. Corrosion and rust might have stuck it in place; if that’s the case, you’ll need to twist the sensor while pulling to remove it.

6. Install the New Sensor

Once the old sensor is out, it’s time to install the new one! Make sure the mounting bolt aligns after installing the sensor. Otherwise, you’ll need to remove the sensor again to install it properly.

7. Reattach the Electrical Connector

Once you’ve installed the mounting bolt, it’s time to reconnect the power. Plug in the electrical connector; you should hear it click into place. If you don’t hear the click, try gently removing the connector. If it’s locked in place and you can’t remove it without pulling the release tab, then you’re good to go!

8. Reconnect the Battery

The final step is to reconnect the battery. Since you disconnected the battery, you’ve already reset the entire system and you should be ready to go! Simply start your engine and see if the check engine light is off. If it is, you’ve fixed the problem. If not, the sensor wasn’t your problem to begin with.

Summary

With modern cars, it’s easy to feel like there are too many sensors and electrical components. While it might feel like that in the heat of the moment because things aren’t working properly, the truth is that sensors have improved our vehicles in multiple ways.

And while it can be frustrating to replace small electrical components, they are much easier to replace, even for the least mechanically inclined individuals, than trying to manually time an engine yourself.

What is a Camshaft Position Sensor?

A camshaft position sensor is a component of a vehicle’s engine management system. As its name suggests, the sensor’s function is to monitor the rotational position of the camshaft relative to the crankshaft. This allows the onboard computer to know which of the cylinders is in its power stroke in the combustion sequence.

For efficient combustion to occur, the right amount of air/fuel mixture must be ignited at the right time. The camshaft is responsible for opening and closing the engine’s intake and exhaust valves. The speed at which the valves open and close depends on the engine load and speed. The valves need to be open longer at high speeds than at low speeds.

The computer combines the input from the cam position sensor and other sensors to determine the proper timings. The timings vary depending on engine load and speed, so the onboard computer adjusts the engine timings from time to time. Igniting the air/fuel mixture at precise moments in the combustion cycle ensures the engine runs smoothly and efficiently.

Symptoms of Bad Camshaft Sensors

The camshaft sensor is part of the engine’s timing system. If the sensor is faulty, it will affect how the engine runs and behaves. Faulty sensors will cause misfiring, backfiring, or loss of power. Faulty cam sensors will also trigger the Check Engine light and the computer will put the vehicle into limp mode.

Check Engine Light

The cam position sensor is one of the sensors that triggers the Check Engine warning if it fails. The camshaft position sensor works in conjunction with other sensors in the engine. If one or more of the sensors are faulty (like the cam sensor), it will send a warning in the Check Engine light.

Misfires

Engine misfire is a sign associated with bad cam sensors. If the sensor is worn out, it may not provide the computer with the correct camshaft position. This causes the computer to determine the timings based on faulty sensor input. The computer will then send non-optimized timing signals to the injectors and ignition coils, causing engine misfires.

Backfires

Engine backfire is another sign of worn cam sensors. Like misfires, incorrect timings cause engine backfire. If the timing is off, the air/fuel mixture will leave the combustion chamber unburned. This unburned mixture can ignite in the exhaust system due to the heat from the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipes.

Struggling, Stalling, or Difficulty Starting

The engine struggling or stalling is another sign that the camshaft sensor is faulty. Faulty sensor inputs will cause the computer to unnecessarily retard or advance the timings. Bad sensors will also cause the valves to open too early or too late. This deprives the engine of the right amount of air needed for efficient combustion, resulting in a loss of engine power.

Shifting Problems

Modern vehicles are equipped with a fail-safe safety feature called “limp mode.” The car computer activates the feature if it detects a fault (such as a bad camshaft sensor) in the engine. When the vehicle is in limp mode, you will not be able to shift beyond second gear and accelerate your vehicle.

What Causes Camshaft Sensors to Fail?

Camshaft position sensors can fail due to normal wear and tear or mechanical damage. The sensors are prone to damage from contamination, vibration, and heat in the engine compartment.

Contamination and Corrosion

The cam position sensor is usually installed on the engine cylinder head. Broken gaskets and seals can cause oil and coolant to leak into the sensor. As with any electronic device, oil, water, and rust can short the sensor’s circuits.

Vibration

The engine produces a lot of vibration during operation. The sensors are designed to withstand these oscillations. However, too much engine vibration can increase sensor wear. This is further exacerbated by additional vibrations generated when the engine shakes violently due to incorrect timings and improper air/fuel mixtures.

Excessive Heat

Excessive heat is another cause of camshaft sensor failure. Heat in the engine compartment can cause the metal parts of the sensor to expand. This expansion will affect the sensor’s ability to send the correct input to the computer.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Camshaft Sensor?

Expect to spend between $100 and $250 for camshaft sensor replacement. Depending on your vehicle model, sensors cost around $20 to $50. As for the labor cost, the rate is typically between $75 and $100.

Remember that dealerships charge more than independent mechanics. In any case, you will still need to pay taxes and other fees for the service.

Can You Replace the Sensor Yourself?

Replacing the sensor is easy and you can do it yourself. You can save about $100 on labor alone by going this route. To swap out your bad sensor, please check out this video by Scotty Kilmer.

Make sure the sensor is compatible with your engine when purchasing a replacement. Buying an identical sensor also reduces the risk of having compatibility issues. Replacing the sensor takes about 30 minutes. This includes removal, installation, and testing.

How to Replace a Faulty Cam Position Sensor?

If you decide to change the sensor yourself, follow these simple steps:

• Park your vehicle on a flat, level surface.
• Turn off the engine.
• Remove the negative (black) cable from the battery from its terminal on the battery.
• Locate the camshaft position sensor around the engine cylinder head. If you have trouble, consult your manual.
• Unplug the sensor connector.
• Remove the sensor from the cylinder head. Sensors are usually secured by bolts.
• Install the new cam position sensor.
• Reinstall the sensor connector.
• Reconnect the black battery cable to its corresponding terminal.
• Start the engine and check if the Check Engine light is on.
• If there is no Check Engine light warning, take your vehicle for a road test.
• If the engine runs well, congratulations, the replacement is successful!

Is It Safe to Drive with a Bad Cam Position Sensor?

The short answer is no. Driving with a bad camshaft sensor poses a huge safety risk and could further damage your engine. Losing engine power while driving on the highway is dangerous, especially due to the amount and speed of traffic. You risk being rear-ended by another vehicle when you suddenly lose power.

You can still drive the vehicle, albeit in limp mode, as mentioned above. Do not attempt to drive the car longer than necessary. Faulty camshaft sensors can cause serious engine damage if ignored. Engine systems are designed to operate interdependently. If the cam position sensor is faulty, it will negatively affect the ignition and fuel delivery systems.

If your vehicle shows any of the signs and symptoms of worn cam sensors, take your car for repair immediately or replace the sensor yourself.

How to Test a Bad Camshaft Sensor?

If you suspect the camshaft sensor is faulty, check the computer for fault codes using an OBD2 scan tool. If the cam sensor is faulty, the scanner will generate codes indicating the problem.

If you don’t have an OBD2 scanner, check the sensor for damage before testing its circuits. Check the sensor for loose connections, contamination, debris, cracks, and other deformities. If there is no visible damage to the sensor, there may be a problem with the sensor circuit.

Testing bad camshaft sensors is simple and you only need a multimeter. Most modern vehicles use either the magnetic type camshaft sensor or the Hall effect camshaft sensor. The sensors are tested in situ with the ignition on, and again while the engine is running.

To test the Hall effect sensor, put the black multimeter probe in contact with the ground wire. Then connect the red probe to the sensor’s signal wire. The voltage across the device should comply with the voltages specified by the manufacturer. If the voltage reading is lower than specified or there is no signal, the sensor is faulty.

To test magnetic sensors, first put the black probe of the multimeter in contact with any ground point (i.e., engine block, valve cover, engine bolts, etc.). Then connect the red probe to one of the sensor’s signal wires. If the voltage reading does not fall within the specified voltages, the sensor is faulty.

Conclusion

A working camshaft position sensor allows your engine to run smoothly and efficiently. Replace damaged sensors immediately to avoid damaging your engine. Since replacing the sensor is easy, the best option is to replace it yourself to save money.

Brakes are one of the most important parts of a vehicle, and it goes without saying that their functionality is crucial and critical.

That’s why you need to pay close attention when your vehicle is trying to tell you that something is wrong. Grinding, squealing, or scraping noises when braking are the most common warning signs that your brakes are acting up.

While most noises indicate that it’s time to change your brake pads, what do you do if you hear a grinding noise when braking but the pads are fine?

We will detail some of the common reasons why your brakes might be grinding, even if your pads still have plenty of life left.

Start by Taking a Look

Braking systems are surprisingly simple. If you hear grinding noises when you brake, remove the wheels and calipers and see what you’re dealing with.

That’s exactly what the mechanic will do to figure out what’s going on. The only difference is that they will charge you a premium to do it.

Poor Quality Brake Pads

If you recently replaced your brakes and you’re still hearing a grinding or squealing noise, there’s a good chance you have poor quality brake pads. And when you use cheap brake pads, there are more significant potential problems to worry about than just a bit of noise.

Cheap pads wear out much faster and provide less braking force than their higher-quality counterparts. If you don’t know what brake pads the mechanic used on your vehicle, you can always ask. However, there’s really not much you can do if they don’t tell you what they used or if you don’t remember what you installed.

To find out if cheap brake pads are causing the concerning noise, you need to rule out every other possible cause. It’s not rocket science or anything, but it’s just one of the many reasons why you should spend the little extra money and get high-quality brake pads whenever you need to replace them.

Faulty Shims

Behind every brake pad is a shim. Whenever you replace the pad, you should also replace the shim. The shim is where the brake caliper piston pushes against the pad. If the shim is old or extremely rusty, you might hear noise every time you press the brakes.

More importantly, it could wear out completely, which would lead to the piston pushing directly against the brake pad. Your brake pads can’t handle that, and they can wear out and fail prematurely.

Faulty Self-Adjusting Mechanism

On each brake pad, there is a self-adjusting mechanism that pushes the brake pads against the rotors. If this mechanism is faulty or rubbing against the rotors when it shouldn’t be, the result can be a grinding noise every time you press the brakes.

To make matters worse, it will prevent your brake pads from maintaining their proper distance from the rotors, which can eventually lead to inconsistent braking, which is a significant safety issue.

Poorly Mated Brakes and Rotors

Whenever you replace the brake pads, it is essential to replace the rotors or have them resurfaced. Not doing so can result in poorly mated pads and rotors, meaning they grind and squeal every time you press the brakes. More importantly, it means you will get less-than-ideal braking, which could lead to an accident.

Even if you have brand new rotors and pads, you need to ensure they mate correctly after installing them. You will need to get your vehicle up to 20 to 25 miles per hour before applying the brakes quickly and evenly. You should do this at least four to five times whenever you install new brake pads to ensure you get a proper mate.

However, if your brakes are already grinding and squealing, it’s too late. Once your brake pads have mated, you cannot reverse or fix the process. Worse than the grinding or squealing, your brakes could end up glazing over. If that happens, you won’t get the necessary braking force to stop effectively.

Debris Stuck in the Brakes

When you’re driving down the road, all sorts of things can get stuck in the rotors. Sometimes, a few pieces of this debris can get stuck by the pads or between the backing plate and the rotor. The easiest way to check is to remove the wheel and brakes and inspect for any potential debris.

Sometimes, all you have to do to fix the problem is remove the calipers and reinstall them!

Worn Brake Rotors

People most often replace their brake pads to save a few dollars. As a result, the rotors themselves can be worn out even if the pads are still in good condition. Often, old rotors start to rust, which can lead to excessive noise when you brake.

Even if the rotors are resurfaced every time you replace the pads, you can still run into problems. That’s because rotors have a minimum thickness, and every time you have the rotors resurfaced, you cut into that thickness.

Combined with the fact that rotors wear out every time you press the brakes, and it’s no surprise that you need to replace them from time to time!

Rusted Pads or Rotors

If you haven’t driven your vehicle very often, the pads or rotors can start to rust. While this might seem like a major concern, the rust can be quickly worn off by driving the vehicle.

While a bit of surface rust on the pads and rotors isn’t a big deal, excessive rust can be a significant problem. Furthermore, even with surface rust, you’ll need to be a bit more careful until it’s cleaned off. Once the confidence is gone and you can see the rotors clearly again, you should be good to go – and the noise should be gone too.

Loose or Rusted Caliper Bolts

Typical vehicles have all the braking components held on by four bolts. If any of the bolts come out or aren’t tight enough, the entire brake will move when you press the brakes.

Not only will you be able to feel it when you press the pedal, but you’ll also hear it. If you think you have loose or rusted caliper bolts, you need to address this issue immediately. Not doing so can lead to a much more serious problem, such as the entire caliper shifting or falling off.

Faulty Wheel Bearings

Wheel bearings do a lot for your vehicle. They ensure the proper functioning of the wheel’s internal operation, allowing you to roll down the road without any worries. But if you don’t properly tighten the locknut that holds your wheel bearing, the wheel bearing can start to back out.

Furthermore, if the wheel bearing isn’t properly lubricated, it can start to break down. Either option will lead to excessive play in the wheel. While this can manifest in various ways, one of the most common things drivers will experience is hearing a grinding noise.

This noise can become much louder when you press the brakes, as everything changes when you apply more torque to the wheels.

Rubbing Backing Plate

Behind each brake rotor, there is a backing plate. This plate helps protect your rotors and brakes from debris on the road. But every once in a while, something large enough can come up and hit the backing plate, causing it to bend.

If it ends up bending, it can rub against the rotors and cause a loud grinding or scraping noise when you’re driving. When this happens, all you have to do to fix the problem is gently bend the backing plate back into place.

Don’t Rule Out the Rotors.

We know you’ve already checked them, but have you checked all of them? Just because one set of brake pads is fine doesn’t mean they all are. Ideally, you should check all four sets of brake pads before moving on and trying to diagnose a deeper problem.

Worn brake pads are the leading cause of grinding and squealing noises when braking, and it’s not even close. Don’t rule them out until you’re 100% sure that all four sets have plenty of life left on them.

Summary

When it comes to your brakes, it’s not an item you can ignore. You need to take every warning sign seriously. While the most common problem you’ll encounter is worn brake pads, you need to know what to do if that’s not the issue.

Knowing what to do can save you a ton of money instead of taking it to a mechanic, but if you can’t figure it out, you need to have it looked at by a professional.

While it might cost a bit more money than you want to spend right now, not getting repairs done quickly can cost you even more!

Auto repair shops often charge a lot of money for an engine oil change. Would you like to try doing the oil change yourself instead?

In this article, you will learn how to change your engine oil at home for the most common car models.

I will not assume any responsibility if YOU do something wrong by following this guide. You should always consult your car’s manual if you are unsure of what you are doing.

Before taking any action, you must first know the amount of oil needed for your engine and ensure you buy the correct oil filter for your vehicle.

Also check your car’s manual for the correct oil quality for your engine. You can learn more about oil qualities in our other article here: engine oil 10w30 vs 10w40.

If you cannot find the right information about your car, call your dealer and ask for these details. You can often ask any auto parts store.

Step 2: Jack up the car safely

Lift your car and make sure to do it safely!

Always use jack stands when doing anything under your car. Using a jack alone is not enough. It can break, and you don’t want a vehicle falling on you! Safety first!

Refer to your manual for where to place the jack stands and the jack to lift your car safely.

If you are unsure how to proceed safely, I recommend watching this good YouTube video first!

Step 3: Remove the plastic cover underneath the engine

Many cars have a plastic cover under the engine that must be removed before you can reach the oil drain plug and filter.

Some cars like BMW and Kia have a prefabricated hatch on the plastic cover for the oil filter and drain plug. If that is the case, you do not need to remove the entire plastic engine cover.

But if you are not a car expert, I suggest removing it anyway, as the process is much easier and you won’t end up spilling oil everywhere.

Step 4: Replace your oil filter

You should always replace the engine oil filter first if you have an insert oil filter on top of the engine. The reason is that the oil filter housing contains oil, and when you remove the oil filter, older, dirty oil flows into the oil pan.

If you have an insert filter, the most common location for it is on top of the engine. Find it and replace it. Replace all O-rings and ensure the oil filter cap is tightened to the specified torque.

If you have a cartridge filter, the most common installation position is under the engine.

If you have a cartridge filter, it doesn’t matter whether you replace the oil filter before or after the oil change.

Here are some common oil filter locations.

Step 5: Drain the oil

Locate the drain plug on the oil pan under the engine. You must be 100% sure you are unscrewing the correct bolt. If you accidentally remove the transmission bolt, it takes some work to refill the transmission.

Consult your engine’s maintenance manual if you are unsure of the oil drain plug location on your vehicle.

Remove the drain plug and let all the oil drain out.

Replace both the oil drain plug and the gasket. In some cases, if the oil drain plug looks fine, you may only need to replace the gasket.

If you do not replace the gasket, the risk of an oil leak is much higher. Use a torque wrench to tighten the oil drain plug to the correct torque. For the correct torque specifications, refer to your maintenance manual.

Step 6: Fill up the engine oil

It is now time to fill up with new, fresh engine oil. Make sure to fill the correct amount through the oil filler cap on top of the engine and ensure you do not spill it on hot parts such as the exhaust manifold.

You can remove the dipstick to allow air to escape from the engine while you fill it. This makes it easier for the oil to enter the engine.

After filling your engine oil with the correct amount, you should check your dipstick. It should now be slightly above the MAX symbol because the oil filter is empty.

Step 7: Start your engine

Start your engine and make sure the red oil pressure warning light on your dashboard comes on and then turns off after a few seconds.

Let your engine idle for about 15 seconds to ensure the new oil filter is filled with oil, then turn off the engine.

Step 8: Check your dipstick

After idling your engine for about 15 seconds, you should turn off your engine and let it sit for 5 minutes. This gives the engine oil time to drain into the oil pan.

Check your dipstick and ensure the oil level is between the Min and Max marks.

In 95% of cases, the level should be on the Max mark. However, on some vehicles, it should be between the Min and Max marks. Check your maintenance manual again for the exact information for your car.

Step 9: Start your engine and let it idle

If your oil level is correct, you can now start your engine and let it idle for 10 minutes or take it for a test drive.

Before the test drive, make sure there is no oil leaking from the threaded plug or the filter.

Step 10: Final step

After your test drive, you should lift your vehicle again and look for signs of oil leaks at the oil filter or oil drain plug.

If everything is fine, you can now replace the plastic cover under the engine.

Check the oil dipstick again to ensure the oil level is correct.

Congratulations, your oil change is now complete, and you have saved a lot of money!

Conclusion

It is not difficult to replace the oil yourself at home if you are careful and follow the instructions closely!

If you have any questions about your oil change, feel free to comment below, and I will answer your questions as soon as possible!

Two of the most common engine oils are 10W30 and 10W40. Although they are very similar in nature, there are a few differences between the two. The main difference between 10W30 and 10W40 oil is viscosity.

We will take a closer look at the differences between these engine oils and give you insight into which one is suitable for your vehicle. We eliminate the confusion about oil viscosities.

So, what are the main differences between 10W30 and 10W40 oils and which one is best for your car? The quick answer is that 10W40 is thicker than 10W30 at higher temperatures.

Unfortunately, this quick answer does not make it easier to understand. You must first know about oil viscosity and the meaning of the numbers on the two engine oils.

Understanding Oil Viscosity

When you talk about viscosity, you know that it refers to the thickness of a liquid. For example, oil is thicker than water. If you were to pour water and oil at the same flow rate, the water would flow faster. For this reason, oil has a higher viscosity than water.

Viscosity is affected by multiple factors, especially when it comes to different grades of engine oil. One of these factors is temperature. If you were to put your oil in the refrigerator for several days, it would eventually turn into a waxy substance. Because this is true, you know that oil viscosity and temperature are closely related. When the temperature increases, the oil’s viscosity decreases. In return, when the temperature decreases, the oil’s viscosity increases. The two are proportional.

Your car’s engine requires the correct oil viscosity to function properly. The oil must withstand different temperatures, capable of adapting to any situation. If your engine produces an excessive amount of heat, the oil could quickly become too thin and not protect the internal components. On the other hand, if the engine is cold, the oil could become too thick to flow properly.

This is where oil grades come in. Each one is named based on its viscosity and how it performs.

Understanding Oil Grade

These two oils start with the number 10. This first number indicates the oil’s viscosity at low temperature. Usually, this number is designated for winter temperatures. As this first number decreases, it flows more easily in cold weather. Therefore, oils starting with the number 5 flow faster than those with a 10 designation. As you might expect, W stands for winter.

So, what does the second number in the oil grade indicate? It shows how easily the engine oil flows when operating at optimal engine temperatures or during the warmer months of the year. The higher this number, the more the oil provides protection against extreme heat and pressure.

With this in mind, the only difference between 10W30 and 10W40 oil is the viscosity at higher temperatures and more pressure. The 10W40 will be thicker when temperatures rise.

When to use 10W30 Oil

If you live in a cold climate, you will find that 10W30 works better for your vehicle. In these climates, the engine oil only deals with the engine’s heat, not the additional stress from the environment. 10W30 engine oil can also reduce the engine temperature while it warms up during the winter.

You will find that 10W30 is used more often than 10W40. It is also easier to find and less expensive. If you are looking for an economical solution, you might prefer 10W30. However, you don’t want to use it if you live in hot climates or are in the middle of a hot summer.

When to use 10W40 Oil

If you live where it is hot all year round, you will prefer 10W40 engine oil. It is designed to perform better at higher temperatures and protects your engine from extreme wear. Not only will this oil handle environmental heat better, but it is also designed for engines that run hotter than others.

With this in mind, you can still add 10W30 in hot weather, but be aware that it will thin out faster than 10W40. As temperatures continue to rise, the internal components may not be lubricated evenly. To be safe, spend a little more and use 10W40 for better high-temperature protection.

Mixing 10W30 and 10W40 Motor Oils

If you do an online search about mixing oils, many people will tell you that it’s fine. However, it is not recommended for multiple reasons.

First, mixing engine oil grades can create a decrease in oil pressure as the engine revs up. This problem can lead to the deterioration of a bearing due to rotation.

Furthermore, when you mix engine oils, you can void your vehicle’s warranty. While both perform the same in cold weather, the latter is designed to be thicker in warmer climates. Unless it’s an emergency, you don’t want to mix oil grades and cause additional wear on your engine. By carrying engine oil with you, this situation can be avoided.

In a perfect world, we would spend our entire lives driving from point A to point B, without fear of being involved in a collision. Unfortunately, wrecks occur frequently and incessantly on our country’s roads. When such collisions occur, our vehicles often bear the brunt of our misfortune.

If you’re lucky, a minor fender dent will result in little more than a few cosmetic flaws, all of which can be repaired with relative ease. This can be as simple as making a dent or repainting a bumper.

However, at the other end of the spectrum, the most violent collisions often leave behind significant mechanical damage, which is much harder to repair (or even see).

Of these damages, none is as significant as that which extends to a vehicle’s frame. When the frame is damaged, the chances of a vehicle being totaled skyrocket, as it often serves as the proverbial nail in the coffin for all but the newest vehicles. However, one must often wonder how severe such damage can truly be.

Read on to learn more about the severity of structural damage to a car, truck, or SUV’s frame, as well as the typical costs associated with repairing such damage.

What is a Car Frame?

A car frame serves as the very foundation upon which the rest of a vehicle is built. A “frame” essentially consists of two main rails, which extend the entire length of a vehicle and are fixed by a number of crossmembers at varying intervals.

Although the exact design of a vehicle’s frame often varies from one particular make and model to another, all serve the same purpose. From a vehicle’s body to its drivetrain components, all are attached to this central frame at a particular point in its construction.

A vehicle’s body is mounted onto the frame below, via specialized body mounts. A vehicle’s engine and transmission are held in position by mounts supported by the frame. Essentially, without a well-designed frame, a vehicle simply would not exist.

Vehicle frames are also carefully designed to incorporate specific angles, which ultimately influences characteristics such as drivetrain inclination and front-end geometry. The slightest variation in these angles can present a multitude of handling-related issues.

What is Considered Frame Damage?

Any damage that extends to a vehicle’s main support structure or compromises a vehicle’s structural integrity is classified as frame damage.

The most common example of this form of damage is that which results in a bent frame. This occurs when an impact sustained during a collision is significant enough to deform a vehicle’s main support structure.

Damage to any permanently riveted or welded mounting point on a vehicle’s frame can also be classified as frame damage. This includes damage that extends to a vehicle’s upper suspension mounts or crossmember mounting flanges.

Signs of a Car With Frame Damage

When considering the purchase of a used car, there are several telltale signs of frame damage that any potential buyer should be aware of. Here are several key characteristics of frame damage to watch for.

#1 – Non-Uniform Bends In Frame

In most cases, if a bend in one frame rail does not match that of the rail on the opposite side of the vehicle, frame damage should be suspected.

Most manufactured bends in frame rails are identical from one side of a vehicle to the other, are identical and extremely uniform in appearance.

#2 – Drastically Altered Alignment

A vehicle’s front end can become misaligned for a number of reasons. However, a drastic misalignment, which is very visible to the naked eye, is usually a dead sign of frame damage.

Do not be fooled into believing a seller’s claims that the vehicle in question will be fine after a quick alignment.

#3 – Unnaturally Positioned Suspension Components

If a quick glance inside a vehicle’s wheel well reveals a shock absorber or strut leaning at an unnatural angle, which does not match that at the opposite end of the same axle, look elsewhere.

Mispositioned or misaligned shock absorbers/struts indicate that significant frame damage has altered the location of a vehicle’s suspension mounting points.

#4 – Ill-Fitting Components

If a number of a vehicle’s body panels and accompanying components appear to have a poor level of fit and finish, there is a high likelihood that substantial frame damage is to blame. Even a door that does not close properly can sometimes indicate that there are more serious issues at hand.

This is especially true if all of these panels and components appear to be new but bind poorly when moved. In many cases, a vehicle’s frame has been deformed to the point of altering the location of its body mounts.

#5 – Irregular Tire Wear

Tires can wear unevenly for a number of reasons. However, if several different wear patterns are present among the tires of a single vehicle, there is a high probability that frame damage is to blame.

When a frame has been damaged to the point of altering its geometry, a vehicle’s tires will often track irregularly when driving on the road. This almost always leads to extremely strange tread wear.

Can Frame Damage Be Fixed or Is the Car Totaled?

The viability of repairing a car’s frame is dictated by the extent of the damage sustained. In some cases, when this damage is relatively minor, a vehicle’s frame can indeed be repaired.

However, in other more severe cases, frame damage is totally irreconcilable.

When frame damage is severe enough to require a lot of time, effort, and money to perform the necessary repairs, it is not always feasible or safe.

Not only would the expenses associated with such repairs likely exceed those of most vehicles in their entirety, but a frame that has already been repaired is never as strong as it was before being damaged.

As a result, even if a frame could be repaired, doing so presents a huge liability. For this reason, many shops quickly veto the idea of repairing any frame deemed excessively twisted or deformed.

Frame Damage Repair Cost

The cost associated with repairing frame damage can vary significantly from one end of the spectrum to the other and largely reflects the severity of such damage.

In almost all cases, a vehicle will need to be placed on a specialized piece of equipment known as a frame rack, through which precise repairs can be made. Services of this nature are never cheap and typically require a fair amount of time.

At the lowest end of the price range are damages contained within suspension mounts, which are typically riveted/welded in place at the factory. Even repairs of this type can be quite costly and often result in labor costs between $1,000 and $2,000.

Worse yet, this estimate does not include the cost associated with repairing additional cosmetic damage that will also have occurred during such a collision.

At the other extreme of this price range is the cost associated with repairing a severely damaged or twisted frame. It is not uncommon for repairs of this type to exceed $10,000 in cost, before the replacement of external cosmetic components.

Few cars undergo such extensive repairs, as it is rarely feasible.

Is It Safe to Drive a Vehicle With Frame Damage?

Simply put, it is never safe to drive a vehicle with unrepaired frame damage. When such damage occurs, a vehicle’s structural integrity is compromised. As a result, a subsequent collision of any kind could have disastrous consequences.

Furthermore, since frame damage often alters a vehicle’s front-end geometry, handling usually suffers. This can result in unbalanced steering, as well as uneven weight distribution, both of which can increase the chances of you ending up in a wreck of one type or another.

If that is not convincing enough, it is also important to understand that you could be held liable if you were to injure another motorist in a wreck, while knowingly driving a vehicle with unrepaired frame damage.

Therefore, you could jeopardize the livelihoods of several people by driving a vehicle that has been damaged in this way.

Can You Sell a Car With Frame Damage?

The legality of selling a frame-damaged vehicle generally differs from one state to another. However, in almost all cases, a seller is legally required to disclose details regarding such damage prior to sale. If you fail to disclose this information, you quickly risk becoming the target of a lawsuit.

Furthermore, failing to disclose frame damage when selling a vehicle can also get you in hot water civilly, and perhaps criminally, if the vehicle’s new owner were to be injured in a collision related to such damage.

Essentially, providing potential buyers with a detailed account of any known frame damage is not only the best way to proceed, but truly the only course of action.

Have you ever bought cars online, then filtered your search by “manual transmission” because all the cool cars have them? If not, try it now. I’ll wait.

Isn’t it great what you find? Now try sorting by price and starting from the bottom of the barrel and tell me you didn’t just try to justify buying another project car.

While this seems like a tangent, my point is that cars have different transmissions – the link between the engine and your spinning wheels that makes your car move forward. How about digging a little deeper to understand what’s going on underneath?

Here are three different types of transmissions found in today’s vehicles as well as five ways to help identify the specific transmission model.

Types of Car Transmissions

Manual Transmission

How It Works

A manual transmission is, as the name suggests, a more hands-on approach to shifting gears. Remember when you had a bike and if you kept the same gear all the time, you would have a harder time going up hills?

Remember when you finally climbed that hill, and then when you started going down, you couldn’t spin your legs fast enough to gain more speed? That’s because you didn’t shift.

Shifting gears helps you control the power you put into your transmission, and when your engine is your legs, you need to make sure your bike is in the right gear so you don’t overwork your legs.

The same concept applies to your car. To extend the life of your engine, you need to shift gears to get the most efficient power transfer. If you didn’t, it would be like accelerating from zero miles per hour in 6th gear all the time.

How to Identify

A good way to identify a manual transmission is to look at it first. Does it have a picture on top of the knob that looks like a bird’s-eye view of a black and white tree trunk with numbers at the end of each line? If so, it’s probably a manual transmission.

Still can’t tell? Try grabbing the transmission and wiggling it a bit. The owner may have left it in neutral (not in gear), so you’ll have a lot of play from left to right, forward and backward. If it doesn’t move at all, it’s not a manual transmission or it’s still in gear.

Since we still might not be able to tell at this point, look to the left or right of the transmission and check if there are letters and numbers like “P, R, N, D, 1 and 2”. If there are, that’s what we call an “automatic” transmission.

Automatic Transmission

How It Works

Just as “manual” means doing something with your hands, “automatic” when applied to transmissions means the car will essentially move by itself. This is how 99% of cars evolve these days. You get in the car, turn it on, put the transmission in “D” (for “Drive”), release the brake, and you’re on your way.

When you press the accelerator, the engine speed increases, making the transmission spin a bit faster. This will increase oil pressure or trigger a sensor that will shift the transmission to a higher gear. This will lower the engine speed, allowing you to move more efficiently on the road because you won’t be using as much gas.

How to Identify

Although this transmission still has a stick that you grab to move it into “drive” gear, it won’t have as much play and it won’t give you a series of numbers (1-5 or 6 normally) to choose from. The gear lever will be either on the steering column or right next to you towards the middle of the car.

Reach and move the lever to “R” to get the car out of park and go into “Reverse”. This will allow the car to back up if you need to get out of a parking spot or make some space between you and an obstacle.

If you want to coast down a hill silently because you don’t want to wake your parents, put the transmission in “N” (neutral). That way, you can turn off the engine while you coast down that last hill to your driveway.

**Please note that we do NOT recommend turning off your car’s engine as it makes driving more difficult because you no longer have power steering!** (I only mention this in a theoretical sense)

“Drive” is pretty self-explanatory. In this position, your car will move in the most efficient way possible. There will normally be a preset shift point below 3000 rpm, and if you floor it, the car will downshift and accelerate as fast as possible.

Often, below the “D” position, there is a “2” which means second gear. You’ll shift to this gear when driving in the mountains and want to save your brakes going downhill.

This will force the engine not to exceed the speed required for second gear, and since the car’s momentum propels you down the hill, the engine will slow the car down. If you were to just press the brakes all the way down, you would cause premature wear on those pads, which could even lead to failure.

If you’re going down or up something extremely steep, you might want to just put the transmission in “L” for low, or “1” for first gear. This will allow you to use all the engine at the lowest gear option to get the best wheel spin per throttle input. If you want to do a burnout in an automatic transmission, you’ll need this feature if you’re going to have any kind of wheel spin.

Finally, many newer cars will have an automatic transmission with manual mode. This will allow you to manually select the gear you want to be in. It’s useful for the same downhill scenario where you would shift to a lower gear and allow the engine to prevent the car from gaining speed going down the slope (instead of forcing you to brake).

A manual mode also offers at least a bit more driver engagement/fun for purists who prefer shifting through the gears of a manual transmission.

CVT Transmission

How It Works

Many cars you can buy these days will be equipped with a “Continuously Variable Transmission,” or CVT. It’s a form of automatic transmission, in that you don’t have to actively shift gears with your hands, but the mechanism and feel are a bit different.

Just like an automatic transmission, just put it in “Drive” and go forward! The CVT will be smoother than a standard automatic, because you won’t feel it shift from one gear to another. You might also find that the car won’t accelerate as quickly in general, as it’s more geared towards efficiency than performance.

Under the skin, a CVT transmission uses a “rubber band” to maintain the proper gear ratio while you drive. This elastic always has the same length, but it has to go around the transmission’s input and output shafts. The way the transmission keeps engine speeds low and efficient is by moving the input and output shafts back and forth.

Each shaft has a wide part and a narrow part that adjusts the rotational speed of each shaft, but keeps them in good relation to each other because there’s an elastic that doesn’t change its length.

How to Identify

CVTs are typically used in small cars where there doesn’t necessarily need to be a clear distinction between gears as you would need in a semi-truck, for example. With smaller cars, all forces are less severe than those you face in a big truck, so you can get away with a CVT.

Another big advantage of a CVT is that it is VERY efficient in that it never forces the engine to use more power than it needs. Many manufacturers swear by their CVTs, claiming you don’t really need to service them for the first 100,000 miles!

How to Identify the Transmission Model

#1 – Check the Driver’s Door Card

Open the driver’s side door and look down on the inner door frame closest to the rear of the car. This is where the vehicle-specific information card will be located and you can see the transmission model your car is equipped with, as well as engine specifications, the car’s model number, and other information.

#2 – Check the Owner’s Manual

This one is pretty self-explanatory, but you should dive into the glove box and pull out that owner’s manual and look in the index for “Transmission.” This will give you a page number that you can use to get information about your transmission.

Not only will this page tell you which transmission model you have, but it will also give you helpful maintenance intervals, recommended fluid types, and other useful information about functions that might help you when things get tough.

#3 – Check in the Engine Bay

Most cars will have a description of what’s going on with the transmission under the hood. It will tell you if you have a CVT, automatic, or manual transmission.

But it can also tell you the type of engine oil to use, coolant temperature recommendations, warnings, transmission fluid recommendations, and how long it’s been since you changed your timing belt or timing chain.

#4 – Oil Pan

If the simpler solutions above don’t work or if that information is missing for some reason, you might want to inquire with the company you’re buying it from or the previous owner. There could be some shady business, so if you’re buying it, walk away.

If you already own the car and can’t get the above solutions to work, crawl under the car and check the transmission oil pan. It will also have a small tag on the side that will give you the exact make and model of your good old “Gear Shifter” (I’m tired of writing “transmission,” okay?)

#5 – VIN

Finally, and the above solutions should have worked, but if for some reason they didn’t, go to the front, driver’s side of your car and look at the base of the windshield. You should find a 17-character alphanumeric string that we call a Vehicle Identification Number, or VIN.

Use this code to look up information about your vehicle, including the type of transmission you own, the make and model of your car, as well as whether your car has recalls or issues associated with it. You can contact your car manufacturer for details about your VIN or use CarVertical or a similar service to get comprehensive vehicle details and its history.

Closing Thoughts, Maintenance

Your transmission is very important to the operation of your vehicle. Maybe not as important as your tires or your engine, but certainly near the top! Shifting smoothly and reliably is the difference between reaching your destination and having your car stall and not make it over the top of that hill.

Making sure your transmission fluid is clear is what determines the lifespan of your transmission. If the transmission fluid color is very cloudy, you’ll need to replace it with new fluid because the dark particles are just metal flakes from your clutch or gears rubbing against each other. Just check it often, and you’ll be fine.

So there you have it, everything I think you should know about transmissions at a basic level, and even a bit more if you made it all the way through.

During intense summer heat, few vehicle features are as appreciated by the average motorist as air conditioning. A vehicle’s air conditioning system stops the sweltering summer in its tracks, replacing it instead with comforting coolness.

Today’s modern air conditioning systems are even equipped with dual-zone climate control, allowing each occupant of a vehicle to set the cabin temperature to their liking.

However, a vehicle’s air conditioning system is only as good as its ability to function correctly, without any electrical or mechanical faults. Unfortunately, air conditioning problems of varying severity can and do occur occasionally. When this happens, cabin temperatures soar as discomfort sets in.

One of the most common faults related to the air conditioning system is one that manifests as an inoperative AC compressor clutch. When problems of this nature occur, the refrigerant in an air conditioning system does not circulate, thereby preventing cooling from taking place.

Read on to learn more about the causes of an inoperative AC compressor clutch, as well as how to remedy such issues should they arise in the future.

What is an AC Compressor Clutch?

A vehicle’s AC compressor clutch serves as the on/off point for distributing power to the internal drive components of an AC compressor. When the air conditioner is turned off, the compressor pulley’s coils are disengaged.

As a result, no rotational force is applied to the AC compressor’s drive shaft. This avoids placing an additional load on a vehicle’s engine and prevents excessive internal wear on the compressor.

When a vehicle’s air conditioning system is turned on, power is distributed to the AC compressor clutch’s magnetic coil. This energizing of the clutch coil creates a magnetic field and facilitates clutch engagement by pulling the clutch’s drive plate inward, where it meshes with the compressor’s clutch body/pulley.

In the “on” or “engaged” position, an AC compressor’s clutch transmits 100% of the rotational force applied by an engine’s serpentine belt directly to the compressor’s drive shaft.

However, when a vehicle’s air conditioning system is turned off, the accompanying clutch coil is de-energized. In turn, the AC system’s clutch disengages.

Causes of an AC Compressor Clutch That Won’t Engage

An AC compressor clutch may fail to engage for a number of reasons, many of which are electrical in nature. The exact cause of such issues also tends to vary slightly from one vehicle model to another.

Here are some of the most common causes of an inoperative AC compressor fan clutch.

#1 – Blown AC Clutch Fuse

In many situations, a blown AC compressor clutch fuse can be the cause of a clutch that does not turn on or engage. However, the reason for the fuse’s failure must also be determined. This could be the result of a short in the power wire or a faulty clutch.

#2 – AC Clutch Relay Failure

Most vehicles rely on the use of a relay to control the operation of the AC clutch. A failed or stuck relay can prevent power from reaching the clutch coil.

#3 – Faulty Switches

Modern automotive air conditioning systems rely on the use of several switches to function effectively. These switches directly influence the provision of power/ground to an AC clutch.

The most notable of these switches include low-pressure switches, high-pressure switches, and evaporator temperature sensors. The failure of any of these sensors can render an AC clutch inoperative.

#4 – Faulty Wiring

A compressor’s AC clutch assembly is powered and grounded via a pigtail that branches off from a vehicle’s main engine wiring harness in most cases.

If there is an open condition on any of the wires in this circuit, the compressor clutch will not operate. In some cases, the wiring itself may be good, but the connector is the problem.

#5 – Low Refrigerant Charge

An air conditioning system’s low-pressure switch is designed to cut power/ground to the compressor clutch in the event of low system pressure. Therefore, a lack of compressor clutch operation can often be attributed to a low refrigerant charge.

#6 – High Refrigerant Charge

Similarly, an air conditioning system’s high-pressure switch is designed to cut power/ground to a compressor’s clutch in the event of over-pressurization.

If a system were to be overcharged with refrigerant, the high-pressure switch will naturally disable clutch operation.

#7 – Faulty AC Clutch

Over time, a compressor’s clutch assembly can begin to show its age. In many cases, an AC clutch will begin to slip as the face of its clutch disc begins to wear.

In other cases, an AC clutch’s coil can fail altogether, thereby preventing clutch engagement.

#8 – Control Head/Computer Failure

An AC clutch receives its operational commands via inputs made by a driver through the system’s dash-mounted control head. A failure of any kind within this unit can prevent a clutch’s coil from being powered.

Many systems also route signals from the control head through a vehicle’s ECM/PCM. Because of this, a partial failure of a control module can also result in compressor clutch operation issues.

How to Manually Engage an AC Compressor Clutch

There are several instances where manually engaging an AC compressor’s clutch can prove useful. Perhaps the best use of this practice is to attempt to determine whether or not the clutch itself has failed.

Providing the clutch coil with alternative power and ground sources can help you identify the root cause of compressor clutch-related issues.

The following steps will help you manually engage your AC compressor’s clutch assembly using the jump method.

1. Disconnect the clutch wiring pigtail: You must first identify and disconnect the wiring pigtail that corresponds to your compressor’s clutch assembly. The wiring for this assembly typically comes from the rear of the AC, at the front of a vehicle’s compressor.
2. Identify the power and ground wires: Next, you need to identify the power and ground pins within this connector. When in doubt, always consult a factory wiring diagram for your specific vehicle.
3. Create jumper wires: You will now create jumper wires for the power and ground ends of your compressor’s control circuit. It is important to include an in-line fuse in the jumper intended for use on the positive side of the circuit. It is also helpful to attach alligator clips to the power end of these jumper wires, which can be easily connected to your battery’s terminals.
4. Connect the jumper wires: It is now time to connect your new jumper wires. Ensure that the fused jumper wire is connected between your clutch coil’s positive wire and your battery’s positive terminal. Similarly, hook the remaining jumper wire between the clutch coil’s negative wire and your battery’s negative terminal.
5. Interpret the results: Based on your observations, you will now be able to determine whether or not your AC clutch is faulty. If your compressor’s clutch does not engage when jumped, compressor replacement is advised. Engagement will be evident by the sudden inward movement of the assembly’s clutch disc, which will be accompanied by an audible “click.” If your AC compressor’s clutch does engage when jumped, further diagnosis will be necessary, as the underlying fault lies within the system’s control circuit.

Replacing the AC Compressor Clutch vs AC Compressor

In the past, replacing the AC clutch was considered a cost-effective alternative to replacing an entire AC compressor. However, this is rarely the case today. Almost all major automakers now recommend compressor replacement in the event of AC clutch failure.

In fact, many of today’s AC clutches can no longer be serviced independently. This necessitates compressor replacement, totally eliminating the possibility of clutch renewal.

Even if a particular vehicle’s compressor were equipped with a serviceable clutch, one often spends just as much upfront to replace the AC compressor clutch assembly in its entirety.

Today, aftermarket AC compressors can be purchased at a reasonable cost, thereby eliminating the monetary advantage associated with clutch replacement.

It is also important to consider the fact that replacing an AC clutch requires the use of specialized tools and is generally far more complex than replacing a system’s entire compressor.