WHY IS TIMING IMPORTANT?

There are several moving components in an engine that are all precisely timed and synchronized with each other to ensure the proper operation of the unit. If the camshaft or crankshaft is misaligned or if the timing of the valves and pistons is off, the entire ignition process could be disrupted, causing engine misfires, overheating, and other issues.

WHAT DOES THE TIMING BELT OR CHAIN DO?

The timing belt, also called the cam belt, connects the camshaft and the crankshaft and synchronizes their movements. The camshaft rotates to open and close the engine valves by letting fuel and air pass through. This must be perfectly synchronized with the movement of the pistons, which is controlled by the crankshaft. If the timing belt or chain is damaged or slips, it could lead to severe engine damage or failure.

TIMING BELTS VS TIMING CHAINS

These two types of timing components follow the same operating principles, but there are two key differences. First, belts are typically made of reinforced rubber, while chains are made of metal, often resembling bicycle chains. The second difference is the location of the components. Cam chains are normally housed inside the engine itself and lubricated with oil, and belts are often installed outside the engine. However, some car manufacturers use toothed belts that are internal components and also use engine oil for lubrication.

Due to their material, chains tend to be much more durable than timing belts. Rubber is much more vulnerable to cracking, stretching, and mechanical wear, requiring regular replacement intervals. On the other hand, in general, these external belts are easier and sometimes cheaper to replace. Their other major advantage is that they are quieter than metal chains.

HOW OFTEN DO THEY NEED TO BE REPLACED?

A high-quality timing chain can last as long as the car it is installed in; however, experts advise people to have the component serviced every 100,000 miles to avoid tension-related issues. Several factors can contribute to chain damage. For example, if you use the wrong type of engine oil or if the oil is not changed regularly, it can lead to wear on the plates and pins, as well as stretching.

As mentioned earlier, you need to change the timing belt at regular intervals. Many manufacturers recommend changing the belt and tensioners every 60,000 miles to maintain engine performance. However, some advanced products can last up to 100,000 miles or 7 to 10 years.

SIGNS OF A BAD TIMING BELT OR CHAIN

Regardless of the type of component your car uses, here are some of the most common symptoms to watch for:

CAN YOU DRIVE A CAR WITH A BAD TIMING CHAIN OR BELT?

If the component is faulty, it can make the car very difficult to drive. Even if you can drive it, it is highly discouraged because the risk of engine failure or severe damage is too high. If you suspect there is a problem with the engine timing system, you should seek professional help as soon as possible.

When an engine has too little oil, bad things can happen: friction between moving parts increases, the engine may overheat, and in the worst-case scenario, moving parts seize due to lack of lubrication.

Bad things can also occur when there is too much oil. Overfilling with oil can cause foaming, which turns a slippery lubricant into a frothy liquid with air bubbles that reduce lubrication and cooling properties. Foamy oil is also harder for the oil pump to distribute throughout the engine, so some moving parts may not receive as much oil as they need, increasing wear and the risk of engine damage.

How much oil does a car need? It depends. Check the details in your vehicle’s owner’s manual, but many engines require between 4 and 6 quarts. Typically, oil flows into a pan at the bottom of the engine, below the crankshaft. If the pan is overfilled, the crankshaft can act like a high-speed mixer that churns the oil and creates foam.

The crankshaft is where engine speed is measured, and it rotates rapidly whenever the engine is running. For example, if the tachometer reads 2,500 rpm at 75 mph, that means the crankshaft makes a full rotation 2,500 times per minute; flooring the accelerator can bring it to 5,000 rpm or more.

Overfilling also increases oil pressure, putting more strain on the gaskets and seals that prevent oil from leaking out of the engine or going where it shouldn’t inside. Over time, the extra stress accelerates the wear on these gaskets and seals. Overfilling often happens because repair shops pump fresh oil from bulk containers instead of pouring it from quart or gallon containers. Holding the pump trigger too long can easily add extra oil, and the technician may not check the dipstick—and even if they do, oil takes time to drain into the pan, so they might get a false reading of the oil level after adding fresh oil.

Checking the dipstick when the vehicle is on level ground and the engine is cold will give an accurate reading of the level. If the oil level is slightly above the full mark, it shouldn’t cause problems. If it’s overfilled by half a quart or more, or if foam appears on the dipstick, the best solution is to drain the oil and refill it to the appropriate level.

Seeing steam escaping from under your car’s hood can be deeply troubling at best, but we’re here to help! It’s essential that you can spot the signs of an overheating car engine and react quickly and calmly to ensure your safety, as well as that of your car. This guide will give you everything you need to know to protect your vehicle from heat damage, providing advice on how to extend your engine’s lifespan.

SYMPTOMS OF AN OVERHEATING CAR

Spotting the signs early will help you avoid irreversible damage to your car’s engine. Here are some of the most common overheating symptoms:

WHY IS MY CAR OVERHEATING?

Although most modern cars are equipped with advanced cooling systems, they are not immune to failures. There are many possible causes of an overheating car engine. Vehicles typically overheat when heat cannot dissipate properly in the engine compartment. For example, this could be due to a blockage in the coolant hose or a car coolant leak, or a faulty radiator fan or water pump. It can also occur due to stifling summer weather conditions or a serious issue with the ignition system.

5 SIMPLE STEPS TO FOLLOW

1. Make sure the air conditioning is off and turn on the heater

Turning off the air conditioning will reduce stress on your engine. Increasing the heat might go against your natural instincts, but it will help redirect heat from the engine to the interior. This might be a bit uncomfortable for the driver and passengers, but it should help.

2. Pull over in a safe place

Driving an overheated car should be avoided at all costs. The best thing to do is to move away from oncoming traffic and turn off the engine to let it cool down. If you consider opening the hood, make sure to do so from inside the car, as the hood surface and internal components can be extremely hot. Please note that boiling fluids or steam may escape from the engine when the hood is opened.

3. Let the engine cool for 30 minutes

Never open the radiator cap or expansion tank cap before the engine has cooled down. This could result in serious burns.

4. Once the unit has cooled, check the coolant reservoir

If the coolant levels are low or the reservoir is empty, there might be a leak. Check under the vehicle for puddles of water or spots of smelly fluid. If the coolant is low but no leak is detected, you can top it up if you have a bottle of antifreeze and water on hand.

5. If necessary, call a breakdown service or a mechanic for help

It would be a good idea to have the cooling system and engine components inspected by a professional at a service station to find the root of the problem as soon as possible.

HOW TO PREVENT YOUR CAR ENGINE FROM OVERHEATING

Tip 1: Regularly inspect the cooling system and coolant

Checking antifreeze and water levels is essential to maintaining a healthy operating temperature. The cooling system flush interval depends on the vehicle’s make and model. Some newer coolants can last up to 5 years or 100,000 miles; however, experts generally recommend changing fluids every 40,000 miles. If you notice discoloration or debris, it’s time to have the system repaired.

Tip 2: Be prepared

It might be wise to keep a bottle of fresh antifreeze on hand in case you need it while traveling. Please note that it will need to be mixed with water in the correct mixing ratio.

Tip 3: Park in shaded areas in summer or on sunny days

This will help keep your car and its interior cool. You can also invest in quality car sunshades.

Brake pads are important components of the braking system, on which the safety of all road users depends. Therefore, their selection requires a responsible approach. We will tell you what to look for when purchasing.

TYPES OF BRAKE PADS

Brake pads consist of a backing plate and a friction lining, for the production of which more than ten components can be used.

The composition of semi-metallic brake pads includes at least 65% metal. The remaining 35% is a mixture of graphite and inorganic materials. The advantage of this type of pad is the ability to effectively dissipate heat, the disadvantage is their excessive hardness, which leads to premature wear of the brake disc.

Low steel brake pads are made from organic materials with the addition of metal (no more than 30%). They have good thermal conductivity and ensure more effective braking. They cost almost twice as much as semi-metallic pads.

Kevlar, glass, and carbon are the base materials for the production of organic brake pads. The composition of these components includes no more than 15% metal. They are soft and quiet in operation but are more prone to wear than other types of pads, so they are not suitable for fans of aggressive driving.

The composition of ceramic brake pads includes ceramic fibers, synthetic rubber, and non-ferrous metals. Such pads provide a constant friction coefficient and are less abrasive. They are the best choice for sporty driving styles. They are more expensive than other types of brake pads.

CATEGORIES OF BRAKE PADS

All pads can belong to two categories:

1. original;
2. analogues.

The advantages of original brake pads are obvious, but they cost twice as much as analogues. They are sold in their original packaging, manufactured by a trusted manufacturer.

High-quality analogues are only slightly inferior to original spare parts in their characteristics. These pads are cheaper while offering quite sufficient braking performance. However, there are analogues made from lower quality materials. Usually, these pads are not properly tested and do not meet generally accepted standards. It is important to avoid a mistake when choosing parts: a price that is too low should alert you.

THE MAIN PARAMETERS OF BRAKE PADS

1. Operating temperature. Brake pads resistant to a temperature of 300-350°C should be sufficient for city driving and moderately fast driving. Sports cars are equipped with brake pads that operate at a temperature of 900°C, but they ensure effective braking only when heated above 100°C.

2. The friction coefficient. Pads with a friction coefficient of 0.25 to 0.35 are sufficient to stop the vehicle during moderate driving. These are the values that non-original components usually have. The friction coefficient of original brake pads is slightly higher, about 0.3-0.5. Sports brake pads at an operating temperature of 150°C have a low friction coefficient – 0.2. When heated, it can increase up to 0.5.

3. Service life. The wear resistance of the part depends on the material it is made of. A soft friction lining wears out faster, but a too hard lining leads to premature abrasion of the brake disc.

TIPS FOR CHOOSING BRAKE PADS

HOW TO DISTINGUISH AN ORIGINAL PART FROM A FAKE

1. Pay attention to the presence of the certification mark. If you do not see R90 or 90R written on the label, it is a fake.

2. The package must contain a product passport, a warranty certificate, a quality certificate, and an installation guide.

3. The surface of the original brake pads must be smooth and even.

4. Check the unique part code number on the manufacturer’s website.

THE BEST MANUFACTURERS OF BRAKE PADS

The main manufacturers of brake pads are:

• Brembo;
• Ferodo;
• Bosch;
• ATE;
• TRW;
• STARK;
• Textar;
• Lucas;
• Jurid;
• Remsa;
• PAGID.

The products of these companies vary in terms of price and operating characteristics. Brembo and Ferodo companies produce brake pads for sports cars. Parts from the ATE company are also capable of withstanding operating temperatures up to 800°C.

TRW, Lucas, Bosch, Remsa, and STARK brake pads are more suitable for daily city driving. They have slightly lower parameters but are significantly cheaper. The PAGID company manufactures products for luxury cars.

The American company Jurid produces pads that are used as original parts by car manufacturers but can also be supplied as analogues for vehicles of other brands. The products of this company are also known under the brands BendixR, FRAMR, and PrestoneR.

Although they may be in good condition today, in a few weeks or months, they will need to be replaced. And if you are a moderately skilled DIYer, you can do this job yourself.

Waiting too long for a brake job can cause serious damage to the brake discs, which can significantly increase the overall expense for this job.

The procedure below will apply to braking systems that use disc brakes with floating brake calipers. This arrangement is most common for passenger cars, SUVs, and light trucks. The alternative to floating calipers is the fixed caliper design typically found on high-performance and racing automobiles.

A floating caliper will only have one or two pistons on one side of the disc while a fixed caliper may have one to three symmetrically opposed pistons on each side of the rotor (disc). The floating caliper is attached to a fixed mount by lubricated pins and is free to move in a direction perpendicular to the brake rotor.

Benefits of Changing Your Own Brake Pads

Now, why do the job yourself? Mainly for this reason: you can save money (especially if you already own a few tools), but not a lot. An average brake job (for front or rear brakes) will have a labor charge of about $150 to $300. That’s what you might save, but you will still pay for the parts.

A second, less tangible but important benefit will be the learning experience. That and a new understanding of how your brakes work. Knowing this, you might save repair dollars in the future by allowing you to know what nearly worn-out brakes look like.

How Difficult is it to Replace Brake Pads?

It is a moderately difficult job, but most people can do it if they own a shop manual and follow the process below. If you have already changed your own oil, you will probably not have too much difficulty changing the brake pads on a vehicle equipped with disc (rotor) brakes (compared to drum brakes).

It can be a dirty job so the use of mechanic’s gloves is advised. In some cases, a dust-filtering face mask may be beneficial. Additionally, you will need a shop manual, a reasonably good set of tools, and a number of consumables. See the Required Tools and Required Materials sections below.

Some hand and arm strength will be needed to loosen and tighten fasteners as well as to remove and reinstall the wheels.

How Long Does it Take to Change Brake Pads?

Unless you do it for a living, you will need about one Saturday morning (say, 3-4 hours) to replace the front or rear brake pads. After performing the procedure once, it should take you less time to replace them in the future.

Do I Need to Change All Four Pads?

In the life of your car, the front pads will usually need to be replaced first. They do most of the work to stop the car and will wear out faster than the rears.

That being said, you should periodically check the pad thickness and signs of uneven wear at all four wheel locations.

Note that pad replacement should be done by axle sets. That is why, when you buy pads, you get either a front axle set, a rear axle set, or both, depending on your specific needs.

Where to Buy Brake Pads

You can get a set of brake pads from your local auto parts store or car dealer or buy them online. The advantage of buying locally is that you will get them faster and the seller will make sure you find ones that fit you. Buy them online if you want a certain brand and the convenience of having them delivered to your door.

For more information on the type of brake pad that would be best for you, a little research here will prove beneficial. Although OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) pads work well for your car, they can be expensive. This article covers five of the best brake pad manufacturers.

What About the Brake Rotors?

In some cases, when replacing the pads, the old brake rotors can be reused. But the truth is that most auto repair shops will recommend either resurfacing the rotors (i.e., turning or refinishing them) or replacing them with new parts. Here’s why:

Like the pads, rotors will wear out over time. They can be warped and have thickness variations that will impact braking performance. Resurfaced rotors will have ground surfaces (flat and parallel) that will provide good braking performance and good pad life. New rotors will, of course, be new.

The only downside of refinished rotors is that they will come off the brake lathe thinner than when new. Thinner rotors are neither as strong nor as heat resistant as new parts would be.

Keeping this in mind, here are your options:

1. Buy a new set of rotors. This is the safest bet for long pad life and the best braking performance (see note below). Or…
2. Remove the rotors and have them resurfaced. Most auto parts store specialists can refinish rotors for a minimal fee. Ask them to confirm for you that a sufficient amount of material can be removed without going below the minimum thickness limit. It will take them about a day to do this job. And it will provide you with the basic equivalent of new rotors at about one-fifth the cost.
3. Ignore the rotors. This is generally not recommended, but if you are replacing the pads simply due to wear and the rest of your brake system is working as it should and there is no visible damage to the rotor (cracks, grooves, heat spots), you can probably get away without rotor resurfacing (this time).

Brake Pad Replacement (Step by Step)

Before getting into the details, let me mention that your personal safety when working on your car or whatever else you do in life is important. Taking unnecessary risks can get your adrenaline pumping, but mostly has no place in your garage when performing car repairs.

For a comprehensive overview of safe repair procedures, please refer to this article.

#1 – Before Starting

Get the necessary parts. Yes, you may need to take the rotors back to the parts store for machining, but not if you are going to buy new ones. So get the necessary parts and materials.

First and foremost, update your shop with the essential tools listed above. My rule for tools is: if some are good, others are better. Keep this concept in balance with marital harmony.

To protect your hands and/or keep them clean, you can wear mechanic’s gloves. Before any process that raises dust into the air, you should always put on a protective dust mask.

Let’s go now…

#2 – Jack Up the Vehicle and Remove Wheels

Before lifting your car, place wheel chocks behind the tires of the opposite axle. Think about the direction the car would roll if you lifted the front or rear. This is especially important when working on the rear brakes because there is no parking brake on the front wheels.

Loosen the wheel nuts using a breaker bar or a pry bar (NOT a torque wrench). If you wait until the car is no longer touching the ground, the wheels will want to spin when you try to loosen these nuts.

If you are replacing the front brake pads, firmly engage the car’s parking brake. Do not tighten the parking brake when replacing the rear pads; the engaged brake will prevent the calipers from being disassembled.

While observing safe lifting practices, use your hydraulic jack to lift the front or rear of your car to a comfortable working height. Your shop manual will indicate the optimal jacking points for lifting the car.

Now place two jack stands at symmetrical locations on the right and left and lower the jack slightly so that most of the car’s weight is supported by the jack stands.

Suitable

If the engine temperature rises for no apparent reason while driving, there is likely a malfunction in the cooling system. If you can rule out a leak, the most probable cause is air entering the cooling circuit.

The solution: Bleed the radiator!

Bleeding the radiator must always be done correctly. We will show you what you need to consider to restore the smooth circulation of the coolant.

WHY DO YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE AIR?

Heating and cooling systems operate on the same principle: water is designed to circulate in a self-contained system. If air enters, this circulation is compromised and can lead to reduced efficiency as well as potential damage. In a heating system, the problem can be resolved by bleeding the radiators. The same applies to the vehicle’s cooling mechanism. Here too, air that has entered can be removed by bleeding. Otherwise, tiny air bubbles prevent the proper circulation of the coolant. The result is a decrease in cooling capacity and a subsequent rise in temperature, which can lead to overheating. This is why you should bleed the radiator after every refill of coolant or antifreeze.

HOW TO BLEED A RADIATOR

First, you need to drain the coolant and dispose of it in accordance with legal requirements. Please note that it must be disposed of in the same way as used oil. Then, you will need to mix the coolant in a clean container following the ratio specified in the instructions. If there are bleed valves, you can now proceed by opening the expansion tank and filling it up to the maximum mark with the new coolant. Then close it and start the engine, letting it run. Now, you can open the bleed valves slightly. Check if any bubbles are coming out. If only liquid without bubbles emerges, you can proceed and close the bleed valves. Start the engine, let it warm up, and monitor the temperature gauge. Set the fan to the lowest setting and the heater to maximum. You can now close the expansion tank and shut the hood. At this point, it’s a good idea to take a quick test drive and top up the coolant if necessary.

Basically, you can use these instructions for any vehicle model. Some vehicles do not have bleed valves, others have one or more. The position of the bleeders also varies depending on the vehicle. If you are unsure or not confident enough to do it yourself, we recommend entrusting the bleeding of the cooling system to a trusted mechanic.

BLEEDING THE COOLING SYSTEM WITH NEGATIVE PRESSURE

For some car manufacturers, the bleeding process is a bit more complicated. Some BMW or Porsche models cannot be properly bled using the previous instructions. That’s why we will show you another way to bleed the cooling system—with negative pressure.

Tip: To bleed the cooling system with negative pressure, you need a special tool—a so-called cooling system fill and bleed device. This device first creates a vacuum in the empty cooling circuit. You can then pump new, bubble-free coolant into the system via a suction hose. At the same time, you can check the circuit to ensure it is sealed and free of any leaks.

To begin, screw on the coolant reservoir and install and secure the universal adapter. Connect compressed air with a maximum of 8 bars to the bleeding unit. Open the compressed air valve and create negative pressure. As soon as the system has been bled and a vacuum has been created, close the valve. Have suitable coolant ready in a separate container. Fill the suction hose with coolant so that no air bubbles are drawn in. Now place the suction hose into the container you have on hand. Open the valve on the intake hose and let the coolant enter the system without air bubbles. As soon as the cooling system circuit is full, close the intake valve. Remove the unit again and screw the sealing cap onto the coolant reservoir.

WHEN SHOULD I BLEED THE AIR FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM?

You should bleed the radiator after every refill of coolant or antifreeze. Before going on vacation, it is also advisable to bleed the radiator as part of a thorough general check to avoid unpleasant surprises during your trip.

Radiators: Essential for Engine Performance

Radiators play a key role in maintaining optimal engine temperature. When a radiator is faulty or clogged, the risk of vehicle overheating increases significantly.

An overheating engine can quickly fail, turning an economical repair into a much higher repair cost.

What is the role of a radiator in a car?

In the past, cars used an air-cooling system. However, with the evolution of engines, which are larger and more complex, almost all are now water-cooled. Although the term “water” is commonly used, it also refers to coolant, radiator fluid, or antifreeze.

How does a radiator work?

Water cooling relies on the circulation of coolant through narrow passages in the engine block. Once heated, this fluid is directed to the radiator through hoses.

Air passes through the radiator fins while the fluid flows from one side to the other. The resulting heat exchange allows the air to absorb heat from the radiator, thus cooling the coolant.

Once the thermostat opens, the cooled fluid returns to the engine block. This process repeats until the engine is turned off.

Radiator Location

Most radiators are located at the front of the engine, behind the grille. While driving, air passes through the grille to cool the radiator.

Your vehicle is also equipped with one or more fans that activate when you are stationary, such as in traffic jams or at a drive-through.

Signs of a Clogged or Faulty Radiator

1. Overheating
   Overheating is a clear sign of a radiator problem. Once the engine has cooled, check the coolant level and inspect other components such as cylinder head gaskets or intake manifold gaskets. Repeated overheating can also damage the engine block.
2. Coolant Leaks
   Faulty radiators often leak. If you spot a leak at the front of the engine, consider a replacement. Sometimes these leaks are only visible under pressure, which you can test with a radiator pressure kit.
3. Low Coolant Level Warning Light
   In modern vehicles, a warning light alerts you to a drop in coolant level. Even without overheating, stop to check and prevent any engine damage.
4. Sludge Buildup
   Green, blue, or orange coolant that turns dark brown or black indicates that a replacement is needed. A clogged radiator may also show sticky deposits or solid particles.
5. Water Pump Failure
   Poor coolant circulation can damage the water pump. If it starts to leak or makes unusual noises, inspect the entire cooling system.

Common Causes of Radiator Failure

Although the radiator core is metal, the end tanks are often made of plastic, a material that degrades over time.

Corrosion is also a threat, especially in coastal areas or in winter when roads are salted. Regular maintenance, such as replacing the coolant, helps limit these issues.

Should You Drive with a Faulty Radiator?

It is technically possible to drive with a damaged radiator, but it is strongly discouraged. Overheating can cause serious damage, such as a warped cylinder head or a blown head gasket, leading to costly repairs.

Radiator Lifespan

Radiators are designed to last the life of the vehicle, typically between 8 and 10 years or 160,000 kilometers. However, impacts or wear can damage their fins, compromising their efficiency.

If you perform a replacement yourself, make sure to bleed the air from the system after filling the radiator. If transmission fluid is lost during the procedure, also check its level and make the necessary adjustments.

There’s nothing as welcome as the cool breeze from a vehicle’s air conditioning in the midst of summer heat. After all, without these modern conveniences, our daily commutes would be much less bearable, no matter their length. This notion, in itself, places greater importance on the condition of our vehicle’s air conditioning system as a whole.

As most drivers well know, a vehicle’s air conditioning system must be properly charged to achieve the highest degree of operational efficiency. For this reason, it’s important to periodically recharge a vehicle’s air conditioning system, especially if there is a leak of any severity in the system. The charging can be done using DIY kits or can be performed by a professional.

However, many often wonder if their vehicle’s air conditioning system is overcharged, especially if they have refilled it themselves. It’s also natural to contemplate the outcomes of such overcharging, as well as the symptoms that such a condition might present.

Read on to learn more about the various symptoms associated with an overcharged air conditioning system, as well as how to resolve such an issue, should it arise in the future.

What Does an “Overcharged” Air Conditioner Mean?

Every air conditioning system ever assembled has a maximum charge rate, and those found in today’s vehicles are no different. This “maximum charge” details the total refrigerant capacity that a particular system can accept.

Based on this knowledge, the idea of system overcharging is quite simple. An overcharged condition exists in an air conditioning system whenever an excessive amount of refrigerant has been introduced, which typically equates to a total system charge exceeding that specified by the system’s manufacturer.

Whenever an air conditioning system is charged beyond its capacity, a number of troubling symptoms can occur, most of which are detailed below. However, suffice it to say that an overcharged air conditioning system is largely incapable of operating at its peak efficiency, to the great dismay of any driver who depends on its functionality for their comfort.

How Does It Happen?

Air conditioning system overcharging typically occurs whenever a vehicle owner attempts to charge the system in question themselves, using basic recharge kits that can be purchased at any auto parts store.

When using a kit of this nature, many find themselves limited in their ability to accurately measure the amount of refrigerant being introduced. Furthermore, some kits come with few viable instructions.

Additionally, most DIY A/C charging kits only come with a single gauge, intended to display readings in a system’s low-pressure circuit. In this case, no high-pressure reading is obtained, limiting the ability to fully observe a system’s response to one’s charging efforts.

Most often, a driver is unaware that they have overcharged their vehicle’s air conditioning system until undesirable cooling is noticed. Moreover, a number of additional symptoms can also occur, leading one to wonder whether or not they have overcharged the system as a whole.

Overcharged AC Symptoms

The presence of too much freon in a vehicle’s air conditioning system is often accompanied by a host of secondary symptoms. Recognizing these symptoms can prove helpful when attempting to quickly remedy the current situation.

Here are some of the most common symptoms associated with air conditioning system overcharging.

#1 – Warm Discharge Air

An overcharged air conditioning system rarely cools as it should, often blowing warm air from the system’s vents. If you have recently refilled your vehicle’s refrigerant but are getting no relief from the heat, an overcharge of refrigerant might be to blame.

#2 – Odd Noises

If you have just had your vehicle’s air conditioning serviced and now notice strange noises coming from under the vehicle’s hood, it might be wise to have the system’s refrigerant charge checked again.

System overcharging can cause an air conditioning compressor to struggle, often resulting in an audible gurgling or whining sound.

#3 – Irregular Pressures

Overcharging an air conditioning system often causes system pressures on the high side to skyrocket. System overheating can also result, adding further insult to injury and preventing any level of cooling from being achieved.

#4 – Freezing of the Suction Line

Freezing of a system’s suction line can easily occur in the event of a slight overcharge. This primarily happens when the heat load in the evaporator is rather minimal and system freezing temperatures are reached.

What To Do

In all cases, the issue of a vehicle’s air conditioning system overcharging must be resolved promptly. A vehicle owner’s failure to act can quickly lead to serious and irreversible damage to components. This, in turn, can require additional expense on the part of the driver to restore the system’s full functionality.

In short, one must purge their vehicle’s air conditioning system to achieve the desired charge rate. Unfortunately, this will almost certainly require a trip to the local service center, as most do not have a refrigerant recovery machine available at home.

Venting refrigerant into the atmosphere is highly illegal, as freon is recognized by the EPA as an environmental pollutant.

If you are unsure whether your vehicle’s air conditioning system has been overcharged or not, a trip to your local automotive service center is highly advised. It is far better to address the issue in a timely manner than to suffer a system failure due to complacency.

Can Overcharging Damage the A/C Compressor?

Overcharging a vehicle’s air conditioning system can prove detrimental, if not catastrophic, to the system’s compressor. This stems from the fact that a compressor is subjected to a significantly increased load under such conditions, thereby causing significant fatigue.

Furthermore, extreme overcharging can lead to compressor slugging, which describes a condition where liquid refrigerant enters the intake side of a compressor, often with devastating consequences.

Significant damage to a vehicle’s air conditioning compressor not only requires replacement but also a complete system overhaul. This is due to the high likelihood of system contamination when debris from a failing compressor is forced downstream. In any case, damage of this nature is quite costly to repair.

Internal combustion engines, as you well know, need fuel and air to operate. Fuel is stored in the fuel tank and must be replenished regularly. Air is abundantly supplied by the atmosphere around us and reaches us at sea level pressure of 14.7 lb/in².

This works very well, but that’s all the pressure you’ll get to push air into your engine. You’ll get even less (accompanied by equally reduced power) when climbing the Continental Divide over a high mountain pass in one of the many Western states.

If only we could increase this pressure. If only we could cram more air into our vehicle’s engine along with more fuel. Ahhh. . . the supercharger. These remarkable devices can compress more air into your car’s engine intake system and, with the right amount of fuel, will thus increase engine power by 50 to 75 percent.

What is a supercharger? How did the supercharger (sometimes called a blower or compressor) come about? How many types of superchargers are there? Let’s answer these questions.

What Is a Supercharger?

A supercharger is a device powered by an engine (or an electric motor) that increases the airflow to the engine, thereby increasing that engine’s power. Since the early stages of internal combustion engine development for powering automobiles, trucks, and yes, airplanes, superchargers have been part of the story.

The reason is quite obvious. Supercharging is a relatively simple way to significantly increase the power of almost any internal combustion engine design, whether they are two-stroke or four-stroke, gasoline or diesel. What practical engineer or enthusiastic car owner could resist such a temptation?

Let’s take a look at the types of superchargers, how they came about, and how they work to greatly increase airflow to an engine.

Types of Superchargers

#1 – Roots Blower

Let’s go back in history to a time when most people’s means of transportation required large four-legged animals for power. In 1860, the Roots brothers designed and patented a mechanical ventilation device intended for blast furnaces and several other applications. This was one of the first attempts to build a relatively efficient positive displacement blower.

It used two meshing three-lobed rotors mounted on a parallel shaft. It proved very effective at moving large volumes of air.

The Roots blower progressed rapidly and first appeared in an engine design patented by Gottlieb Daimler around 1885. Its use in production automobiles first occurred around 1921 with German luxury cars manufactured by Mercedes.

These early superchargers proved capable of adding up to 30 to 40% increase in engine power with few other changes to the engines of that era.

Daimler’s designs quickly became popular for street and racing vehicles. Mercedes, Alfa Romeo, and Bugatti come to mind for racing successes using this technology.

The Roots blower design was improved by General Motors (Detroit Diesel) primarily for two-stroke diesel truck engines in the late 1930s. These blowers were later often applied to automobile racing engines.

Such applications are still widespread today. At the drag strip, for example, it’s common to see dragsters using Roots-type superchargers perched on huge engines.

#2 – Screw Compressor

Following the path laid out by the Roots brothers, in 1878, German designer Heinrich Krigar patented the screw compressor. Similar to the Roots blower, it used two parallel shafts but was capable of producing a much higher pressure increase due to the screw shape of its rotors.

However, manufacturing complexity delayed its widespread industrial and automotive use for several decades.

A Swedish engineer, Alf Lysholm, in the mid-1930s, brought key manufacturing technologies that reduced the cost of the screw design. This type of compressor quickly found a niche in the air conditioning world and in other industries where highly efficient high-pressure outputs were required.

In the automotive world, screw compressors are sometimes referred to today as twin-screw superchargers.

#3 – Centrifugal Supercharger

The third type of supercharger is the centrifugal. In the early 1900s, French designer Louis Renault patented the first centrifugal supercharger for automotive use. Within about three years, American race car builder Lee Chadwick took Renault’s design, stacked three stages (three rotors), and began a successful career racing powerful hill climb race cars.

Today’s centrifugal superchargers use only a single impeller with complex curved blades mounted inside a volute-shaped housing. Air enters the impeller near the center of the housing. The rotating impeller slings it to the outer passage of the housing while increasing the air’s velocity.

The air is then routed through a diffuser of increasing diameter which slows the flow and increases the pressure. This high-pressure air is then forced through the induction system to the engine.

A major advantage of this type of supercharger is its relative simplicity. It essentially has one moving part, the impeller. The impeller spins inside a housing with relatively large clearances, making its manufacturing cost reasonably low.

All these types of superchargers are directly driven by the engine. Using a gear drive system or a much simpler belt drive allows the supercharger speed and thus the boost to increase proportionally with the engine’s rising speed.

The output pressure to the engine can vary according to the driver’s power needs through the use of a bypass valve that opens when excess boost pressure needs to be vented. The airflow outputs of these superchargers are modulated in concert with the fuel injection flow by the vehicle’s Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

Production automobiles that have benefited from supercharging technology include historic Studebakers from the early 50s using Paxton blowers, Ford Shelby Mustangs, and popular front-engine Dodge automobiles.

Using compact screw superchargers, some of the Dodge street vehicles easily produce over 800 BHP. A careful right foot is in order with one of these amazing cars.

#4 – Electrically Driven Supercharger

A fourth type of supercharger making its appearance is electrically driven. Each of the three blower configurations described above can be driven by a highly efficient permanent magnet DC motor. This arrangement allows supercharger speeds to be continuously adjusted to the engine’s air needs by the vehicle’s PCM.

An electric motor to spin the internal parts of the supercharger is a much simpler drive system than the complex belts or gears used in mechanical drives. This could potentially be a cost reduction and a reliability improvement over older mechanically driven superchargers.

How Supercharging Benefitted the Aircraft Industry

Although costly in dollars and tragic in terms of horrible human losses, wars have been the testing ground for many technological advances. This is also true with supercharging.

World War II saw the growing need for aircraft capable of reaching high altitudes. Normally aspirated piston-engine aircraft could not operate effectively in the thin air well above 20,000 feet.

Superchargers became common in these wartime fighters and bombers allowing altitudes up to 50,000 feet. With such altitudes, the speed and range of aircraft were also greatly improved.

The Engines Beneath the Superchargers

Supercharging can increase combustion pressures and power outputs of many different engine types. These pressure and power increases will always be accompanied by significantly higher engine temperatures and internal structural loads.

Designers had to compensate for this with improved engine cooling and lubrication, improved metallurgy for engine blocks and internal parts as well as higher quality fuels. These technological advancements have been passed down to the cars and trucks we drive today.

Does it seem like your vehicle is accelerating slower than usual and struggling to climb hills? Don’t rush to look for ignition or fuel supply faults: if these symptoms are accompanied by free play in the clutch pedal and an unpleasant burning smell is occasionally noticeable inside the cabin, the problem is likely clutch slipping. We will explain why this happens and how to avoid it.

CLUTCH SLIPPING: WHERE THE PROBLEM IS

The proper functioning of the system depends on the friction force between the driven disc and the flywheel. If the friction coefficient decreases for any reason, the contact surfaces begin to slip, and the torque is not fully transmitted from the engine to the transmission. As a result, accelerating the vehicle to a certain speed takes more time, and its performance deteriorates. It also becomes more difficult to tackle inclines and hills because the power transmitted to the gearbox shaft is insufficient to move the vehicle.

5 MOST COMMON REASONS FOR CLUTCH SLIPPING

1. Worn and damaged friction linings and disc surface. Excessively worn friction linings, due to reduced thickness, are not sufficiently pressed against the flywheel surface. The compression force of the mechanism is not enough to ensure a fixed connection of its elements. A deformed lining is pressed unevenly against the flywheel.
2. Oiling of friction linings. It contributes to reducing their roughness. Due to the low friction coefficient, the contact elements slip.
3. Weakened or damaged diaphragm spring. If the spring’s elasticity has decreased, the pressure exerted on the driven disc when pressing the pedal will be insufficient to activate the unit.
4. Malfunction of the clutch linkage. A stretched cable, a damaged fork on vehicles with mechanical clutches, swelling of rubber components, or loss of seal integrity on vehicles with hydraulic control can also lead to clutch slipping, as the pressure force on the diaphragm is not sufficient to ensure fixed contact of the coupling parts.
5. Damaged wear compensation mechanism. Due to a malfunction of the adjustment ring or sensor spring, adjusting the free play becomes impossible. This reduces the holding pressure of the driven disc.

6 RECOMMENDATIONS THAT WILL HELP AVOID CLUTCH SLIPPING

1. Try to replace system components as a kit. The average lifespan of the pressure plate and driven disc, diaphragm spring, and release bearing is roughly the same, about 100,000 to 150,000 kilometers. Therefore, to ensure the system operates as long as possible, always replace components as a kit.
2. Check the tightness of vehicle components and assemblies. Poor quality or damaged seals of the engine and transmission, oil leaks from the input shaft oil seal or crankshaft seal, loss of seal integrity in the hydraulic actuator are reasons for oiling the friction linings.
3. Choose components according to your driving style. A standard clutch with composite material friction linings is suitable for calm and smooth driving. They have the optimal friction coefficient, low operating temperature, and are inexpensive. However, a sports car is better equipped with a special clutch designed for heavy loads. Its linings are made of materials with added carbon and Kevlar, and a mixture of copper, aluminum, cast iron, and ceramic. It withstands much higher temperatures, has increased wear resistance, and is suitable for aggressive driving.
4. Check the proper adjustment of the pedal travel. Insufficient pedal travel prevents complete disengagement of the clutch. This causes accelerated wear of the friction linings and can lead to overheating and warping of the driven disc.
5. Always use the working fluid recommended by the manufacturer. Do not mix fluids of different compositions. Aggressive compounds formed as a result of mixing or components contained in a particular class of fluids can be destructive to the hydraulic clutch actuator.
6. Follow these clutch operation rules:
   • When starting, first release pressure on the pedal so that the car starts and begins to move slowly, then hold it in a semi-pressed state for 2-3 seconds, then release it completely;
   • Do not start at high engine speeds;
   • When descending a steep slope, engage first gear, occasionally pressing the brake pedal to avoid overheating the components.
   • When exiting difficult off-road areas, such as a puddle, a pile of snow, or mud, use a tow if possible;
   • While driving, do not rest your foot on the clutch pedal continuously to avoid unintentionally pressing it;
   • Do not overload your vehicle, especially when driving on poor-quality roads: this significantly increases the load on the assembly.

CONCLUSION

Clutch slipping is a common failure, making driving not only uncomfortable but also dangerous. But in most cases, any car owner can prevent problems. Simply purchase high-quality components and follow the above recommendations.