With the depreciation of fossil fuels, new ways of converting energy into locomotion are multiplying. Whether it’s hydrogen fuel cells or electric batteries, the share of modern cars using alternative means to propel themselves is increasing. Electric cars and vehicles in particular are seeing an expansion of infrastructure to support them. EV charging stations are becoming more common, and the era of worrying about finding a place to charge an electric car is over. In 2021, how much it cost to charge an electric car became a more pressing concern than where to find an electric car charger in the first place.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF CHARGERS

There are several ways to break down EV charging types: by the equipment used, the charging rate of the device, the type of current used, and whether the device is public or private.

ELECTRIC CAR CHARGING EQUIPMENT

Electric vehicle power devices come in different forms, but the automotive industry has generally defined charging equipment as follows:

Socket – This is the charger’s interface for inserting the cable.

Plug – This is the car charger’s plug that connects the cable to the device’s socket.

Cable – The cable that transfers electrical currents from the device to the vehicle.

Connector – The part that connects the cable to the vehicle’s input and thus to the vehicle.

Vehicle Socket – The electric car charging socket that accepts the cable’s connector.

To ensure a vehicle can be charged, it needs a plug that fits the sockets of devices in the area where it is driven. Therefore, efforts have been made to standardize plugs worldwide. There are three main types of car charger plugs currently used:

Type 2 Connectors – Type 2 (also known as EU type, Mennekes, or IEC 62196) is the standard plug in Central and Western Europe, parts of South America, the Arabian Peninsula, South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand.

SAE J3068 AC6 Connectors – These are mechanically identical to Type 2 connectors. The differences mainly lie in the types of currents and voltages for which the devices are designed. This type has been adopted throughout North and Central America, including the Caribbean, as well as in South Korea.

GB/T 20234.2 Connectors – These connectors are incompatible with the other two types. Unlike the other two, GB/T uses a female vehicle input and a male connector. This variant is used exclusively in China.

CHARGING RATE

This metric is important for choosing where to power your electric car, as it determines how long it takes to recharge the electric vehicle. The charging rate mainly depends on the device providing electricity to the vehicle, but at higher rates, the car’s ability to accept current becomes the bottleneck. Overall, you can sort these devices into four general categories:

Electrical Grid – Electric cars usually come with a plug that can be connected to the electrical grid to recharge the vehicle from there. The charging rate is about 2 kW and can take over a day to fully charge most vehicles from a flat battery. EV manufacturers recommend using it only in emergencies.

Slow Chargers – If you’ve ever wondered how to charge your electric car at home, slow chargers with a power of 3 kW are becoming more common in households with an electric vehicle. This allows plugging in an electric vehicle overnight when it’s not in use. The time it takes to fill the vehicle’s battery capacity becomes irrelevant.

Fast Chargers – Publicly accessible stations are usually of the fast charger type, with speeds starting at 7 kW. Fast chargers significantly reduce time compared to slow variants, making them more suitable for recharging vehicles on the road.

Rapid Chargers – The latest technology in the field, these can exceed the ability to accept a charge even from modern electric vehicle models. The rate is typically between 120 and 350 kW. Rapid chargers are unknown for private homes and are usually only found in selected locations.

CURRENT

There are two types of current, alternating (AC) and direct (DC). Most vehicles use direct current, but some models (like the Renault Zoe) use alternating current instead to charge the electric vehicle. Typically, an electric car requires DC power, as batteries store it that way, then pass it to a transformer that converts it to alternating current for the motor to use.

OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER

There is another variable to keep in mind when acquiring EV charging equipment: the cable length. While it’s true that longer cables suffer from power loss due to increasing resistance, electric car power cables do not reach lengths where this would be a problem. For lengths between 4 and 10 meters, the consideration of which cable size to use for an electric car charger in the UK is determined by utility and price factors. Shorter cables significantly reduce the distance from which the electric car can be parked from a charging point. Meanwhile, longer ones cost more, weigh more, and take up more space. If you can afford it, you should generally opt for longer cables. Naturally, the type of cable you buy must match the electric car charging sockets you are likely to encounter.

If you haven’t heard about solid-state car batteries, you will. In 2022, all-solid-state cells will enter the automotive qualification process and could be commercialized as early as 2025.

ELECTRIC CAR BATTERIES

If you currently own an electric or hybrid car, you probably know that it is powered by lithium-ion, lead-acid, nickel-metal hydride, or ultracapacitor batteries. Most electric vehicle batteries will last about 10 to 20 years before needing replacement. Replacing an EV battery can be a costly endeavor, which makes many new car buyers hesitant to purchase an electric car. Charging time can also be a challenge, ranging from about 30 minutes to up to half a day depending on your battery size or the speed of your charging station. This brings us to:

SOLID-STATE CAR BATTERIES

Although not necessarily cheaper, solid-state batteries with higher energy density promise to store up to 50% more energy, recharge faster, and be more stable and safer than lithium-ion batteries. Solid-state batteries are not made of heavy liquid electrolytes as is the case with lithium-ion batteries; instead, they contain solid electrolytes. Solid electrolytes can be ceramic, glass, or other solid materials.

As is the case with most new technologies, they are likely to be expensive when they first hit the market, with their cost decreasing as demand increases. It is also very likely that they will become cheaper to manufacture than previous EV batteries. Another advantage is that they could extend the lifespan of electric vehicles to match that of conventional gasoline cars (about 10 to 15 years).

SOLID-STATE BATTERY CARS

Electric vehicles offer us the opportunity to travel, explore, and experience freedoms that public transportation does not provide, without having a major impact on our environment.

You may not be convinced that an electric vehicle is right for you, and there are certain drawbacks, such as price, lack of charging stations, and short driving ranges. However, with the advent of solid-state battery vehicles, new innovations, and mass production, this will very likely change in the not-too-distant future.

Solid-state battery cars are definitely on the horizon. Many consumers have been hesitant to switch from a conventional car to an electric vehicle, but the promised innovations will more than likely convince them to reconsider their options.

WHO WILL BE FIRST?

Toyota has always been a name in electric vehicle technology since they introduced their hybrid technology to the market in 1997 and can currently count over 15 million drivers among their customers. Always seeking new innovations, Toyota stated in 2020 that they were working on prototypes using solid-state batteries and confirmed in 2022 that they plan to start selling vehicles using solid-state batteries as early as 2025. However, it has been stated that the first vehicles equipped with these innovative batteries will not be fully electric but hybrids, with the first car to receive the new battery possibly being the Prius.

Car batteries don’t last forever. The standard lifespan is about three to four years. Just like your home battery or your cell phone, it needs to be recharged from time to time. You don’t need to go to your local garage for this – you can simply recharge it at home – or even while driving.

CHARGING AT HOME

Make sure to consult your owner’s manual, as well as your charger’s manual, for instructions. If you’re using a contemporary microprocessor-controlled smart charger, you don’t need to disconnect your battery to charge it. If you’re using an older charger, it’s recommended to disconnect it before charging.

SIMPLE CHARGING STEPS

Ensure the terminals are clean and free of any corrosion.

If your battery is dry, do not attempt to recharge it. You can, if necessary, add distilled water or drinking water just above the plates, but do not overfill.

Read all instructions provided by the battery and charger manufacturers.

Locate the positive and negative terminals and connect the corresponding charger cables. If it’s inside the vehicle, ensure the car’s system is protected against electrical surges and that the charger doesn’t have high charging voltages that could damage the vehicle’s electrical system. If you only need to charge it to start your engine, 2 to 4 hours are sufficient. If a full charge is necessary, expect it to take about 10 to 24 hours.

NOT USING YOUR CAR? HOW TO KEEP IT CHARGED

Some drivers rely on public transport during the week and only take their car out on weekends. Others may decide to avoid driving in winter due to hazardous road conditions. If your car is fairly new and in good condition, it will take about two weeks before the battery discharges. To avoid this when you need your car the most, it’s important to note a few key points:

CHARGING WHILE DRIVING

Here, we have another option: charging your car without a charger. Since it’s charged by your alternator, it can be charged at a much faster rate while driving. 30 minutes are enough to recharge it by driving on the highway. It will take longer if you’re driving in the city, perhaps an hour or two.

MY BATTERY IS COMPLETELY DEAD. WHAT NOW?

If you haven’t had the chance to recharge it by driving or other means, it will most likely be “dead.” Don’t worry, you can bring it “back from the dead.” Jumper cables and a working car with a full charge are all you need to get your car back on the road.

CHARGING A COMPLETELY FLAT BATTERY

Look closely and check that there are no cracks and no acid leakage. If you see any of these, do not attempt to start your car as you could injure yourself or others.

Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses before touching the flat car battery to avoid harmful sulfuric acid that might be discharged. If there’s corrosion on your cables, clean them as thoroughly as possible with a stiff-bristled brush.

Carefully drive the working car next to the one with the flat battery. Place the cars side by side, nose to nose or facing each other. Ensure the jumper cables are long enough to reach from one car to the other. Do not be tempted to connect two jumper cables together if the first pair is too short. This could melt the cables and cause a fire.

Open the compartment of each car where the batteries are located. Note the positive and negative terminals of each. A plus symbol (+), or sometimes a red symbol, indicates the positive terminal – a minus symbol (-) indicates the negative terminal.

The order in which you attach the jumper cables makes a difference, so make sure to follow the correct sequence. First, connect one end of the positive jumper cable to the dead battery, then connect the positive end of the jumper cable to the charged battery. Now connect one end of the negative jumper cable to the negative terminal of the charged and working battery. It’s important to “ground” the car containing the dead battery when starting, so now connect or attach the ground cable to any clean part free of any oxidation or paint.

Next, start the engine of the car with the charged battery. When you start the engine, the charging system will begin to charge the dead one. After starting the engine, wait at least five minutes to allow it to recharge. If you need to get a full charge, it will take longer.

Now try to start the engine. The engine should turn over effortlessly. If it doesn’t, let it pass another five minutes and continue charging.

Once charging is complete, disconnect the jumper cables from each car in the reverse order of how you connected them. Not doing so could cause sparks or even an explosion.

The ground cable should be disconnected first, then the cable on the negative terminal of the one you used to recharge yours. Finally, the cable connected to the positive terminal of the formerly discharged battery. Let the car that had the dead battery continue running for at least five minutes, allowing the alternator to recharge it.

You can now let it idle for another 20 minutes or take your car out for a short drive. It’s likely that it will be fully charged by then. It’s possible, however, that if it hasn’t been fully charged, you may need to buy a new one.

Car lights may not necessarily be considered the most important topic in driving, but knowing what each one is for and when to use them is basic knowledge that could prevent you from having an accident. They are essential for road safety, and drivers must maintain these lights responsibly. To learn more about car light maintenance, check out our blog articles and tips, such as this one on how to restore your headlights’ intensity.

Dipped headlights, also called low beams, are the lights that drivers tend to use the most. They are located at the front of the car and are angled downward toward the road to increase visibility without dazzling other drivers or cyclists. These lights are not as bright as full beam headlights, but they are still bright enough to illuminate the road ahead of you. You can usually turn them on with a switch on a dashboard dial or an indicator stalk. Many new vehicles are equipped with sidelights that require no human intervention. They turn on automatically when the engine is running to ensure the car remains visible during the day.

When to Use Them:

Visibility is considered very poor when drivers can see less than 100 meters ahead of the vehicle. Broken headlights endanger the driver and everyone else on the road, especially when driving in the dark, as other cars won’t be able to see the vehicle. If you are caught driving with a broken bulb by the police in the UK, you could be fined around £60, receive penalty points, get a vehicle defect rectification notice, or even have the car taken off the road.

FULL BEAM/HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHTS

These are the brightest lights on a car, designed to help the driver see much farther when driving in the dark. They are angled higher than dipped headlights, which is why they are sometimes called high beams. The switch for these lights is normally located next to the one for dipped headlights.

Knowing when to use these lights is of vital importance because if used inappropriately, it could cause a serious accident. Full beam headlights are only meant to be used when driving on unlit roads at night. They should be turned off when you encounter oncoming vehicles, are driving around left-hand bends, or are driving behind another vehicle, as the lights could dazzle other people on the road and cause a collision. Therefore, high beams should not be used in place of dipped headlights if one of the headlights is damaged.

FOG LIGHTS

Fog lights are specially designed to increase visibility in foggy or misty weather conditions. Unlike full beam headlights, these lights are not reflected by the fog. They are installed lower on the vehicle, usually under the front bumper. Most modern cars have two sets of fog lights, one for the front and one for the rear of the vehicle. The front ones are usually green, and the rear ones are usually amber in color.

According to the Highway Code, they are strictly for visibility purposes and should only be used when you cannot see more than 100 meters ahead. Drivers should turn off the lights as soon as visibility improves to avoid dazzling other road users. You should also note that fog lights can also overpower brake lights because they are brighter than standard tail lights.

SIDELIGHTS

Sidelights, also called parking lights, are located at the front corners of the vehicle. They are not as bright as headlights and are sometimes used by drivers to maintain visibility when it is not dark enough to use headlights. When the sidelights are on, the tail lights are often activated at the same time, along with the rear license plate lighting.

The Highway Code states that drivers are required to use their parking lights when parked on a road with a speed limit of over 30 mph. They should also be used when the car is parked in a foggy area, as this will ensure your vehicle is visible to other drivers. The lights can remain on without draining the vehicle’s battery. They do not need to be activated if the speed limit is 30 mph or less and the car is facing traffic or parked in an official parking area.

TAIL LIGHTS

Tail lights are the small red lights at the rear of the vehicle. Unlike other lights, these do not need to be turned on and off manually, as they turn on/off automatically whenever the headlights are turned on/off. They help the driver behind the vehicle to see it and determine how far away it is.

BRAKE LIGHTS

Brake lights can be confused with rear components because they are located next to each other at the back and are both red. The lights turn on automatically whenever you apply your brakes to inform other drivers that your vehicle is slowing down. This also gives them enough time to slow down to avoid a collision or tailgating. For safety reasons, it is important to regularly check and maintain the lights. If you are caught driving without functioning brake lights, you risk fines and/or penalties.

INDICATORS

All licensed drivers must have a solid understanding of what indicators are for and how to use them. Every vehicle has four indicators located at the four corners of the vehicle, next to the headlights. They are used to signal to other drivers which direction you intend to turn when turning onto a different road, changing lanes, or stopping, for example. The lights turn on/off using the indicator stalk. They should turn off by themselves once you have turned the car. Unfortunately, drivers often make the avoidable mistake of indicating too early or too late.

HAZARD LIGHTS

Car hazard lights are the same lights that are used as indicators. As their name suggests, they are used to warn other drivers of potential hazards, such as obstructions or dangerous road conditions. There is usually a button on the dashboard that activates the lights. It can be identified by the distinctive triangular warning symbol.

The lights are meant to be used when the vehicle is stationary, to warn others that the car will temporarily obstruct the road. This is useful when you are forced to stop, have had an accident, or broken down. It is also possible to use them to warn others of an obstacle ahead of you when driving on the highway.

 

Has your airbag light come on on your dashboard and you now want to know how to reset it?

The engine and airbag lights are among the dashboard lights you should pay special attention to if they come on, especially the airbag light due to its importance for safety.

Airbags are designed to inflate whenever there is a collision, and when the light is on, this will not happen.

How do airbags work?

So before seeing how to reset the airbag light, you need to know how the entire function works.

Airbags are life savers when you accelerate and hit another car head-on or hit a stationary object. If you don’t have an airbag, you could violently hit your head against the steering wheel or dashboard. When you hit something at high speed, your car decelerates, which activates an accelerometer that triggers the airbag circuit.

The airbag circuit has a heating element activated by an electric current. This heating element promotes an explosion inside the airbag that quickly generates a harmless gas. Most airbags use sodium azide as the explosive element, and the gas produced can be argon or nitrogen. This gas floods the airbag and causes it to expand; therefore, protecting the driver from injury by occupying the steering wheel and side. The airbag acts as a cushion.

How to reset the airbag light with a scanner

 

How to reset the airbag light without a scanner

It is impossible in most car models to reset the airbag light without a scanner. These are safety precautions because you should always repair the fault after the airbag light comes on. Fortunately, in many car models, the airbag light will also go away on its own if you have fixed the problem.

In some older cars, however, it is possible to reset the airbag light without a scanner by removing the car battery terminals.

Check the wiring system under the driver or passenger seat for any loose wires or corrosion in the connector plug. Spray the connector plugs with electronic cleaner and restart your car.

If you don’t find any problem there, you should really get an OBD2 scanner or let a workshop read the codes; otherwise, you will just be guessing the problem in the dark.

The transponder key contains a microchip for security, using radio waves to activate your vehicle’s ignition system. Without these signals, the ignition won’t start, leaving you in trouble if you lose the key or need to order a new one. However, you can learn how to program a transponder key without the original on hand.

To program the transponder key, you want to put it in the ignition and turn it to the ON position. Once you receive the security alert, you need to wait 15 minutes before continuing. When the light goes out, you must repeat the process three times in total until the key is programmed.

In this guide, we take a closer look at what the transponder key is and how it works. We also guide you through the steps, showing you how to program it without the original at hand. Our article also looks at the cost of getting a new transponder key and programming it.

Steps to Program a Transponder Key Without an Original

Here are some simple steps to program your transponder key without the original key if you purchased a new key from the dealer. This will only work on certain car models, and you may need more advanced diagnostic tools in some cases. However, these steps are simple and free, so you can try them before calling your authorized dealer.

1. Turn on the Ignition

Sit in the driver’s seat and put the key in the ignition. Turn the ignition to the ON position. The security light should come on.

If you don’t see the security light, there might be a problem with the car battery. Test the voltage and charge it if necessary.

Use a car battery charger to ensure the voltage remains stable throughout the process.

2. Wait

The security light should stay on for 15 minutes. Do not touch the system for at least 15 minutes if you want to program the key.

You can set a timer and leave. After all, there are many things you can accomplish during these 15 minutes of waiting.

3. Switch Off and On

Once you have waited 15 minutes, the security light should go out. You need to return to the key within three minutes of this event, so keep a close watch on it.

Turn the key to the OFF position and then back to ON. Again, the security light will stay on for 15 minutes.

4. Repeat the Steps

The security light will go out again after about 15 minutes. You will repeat the same actions as found in the previous step. Turn the key off and on.

This should turn the security light back on. With another 15 minutes to wait, you might be tired by now. However, this should be the last time you need to perform this step. After 45 minutes of following these simple steps, the key should be generated and ready to use.

Test the key and make sure it starts the car. Just keep in mind that the original key will no longer be useful. If you find it after programming a new key, it will no longer work.

What Vehicles Use Transponder Keys?

Virtually all new cars on the market today come with a transponder key. All major brands use this technology, including Chevy, Ford, Nissan, Toyota, and Chrysler. Additionally, luxury car manufacturers also use transponder keys, so you will find them with Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Genesis, and Audi models.

If you have an older vehicle, you might also need a transponder key. Ford introduced the technology in 1996 on more expensive models but slowly integrated it into all levels over the years. For example, all 2001 Ranger pickups came with transponder keys. Additionally, the 1999-2003 F-150 was produced with the transponder key.

Jeep made the transponder key optional, starting with the 1998 Wrangler. It wasn’t until 2007 that the Wrangler became standard with the transponder.

How to Tell if You Have a Transponder Key

1. Key Database

The easiest way to know if you have a transponder key is to check with the dealership. You can also contact a locksmith who holds a database of car key types.

By providing your car’s information, the dealership or locksmith will be able to tell you what type of key you have. Either one is also capable of getting you a new key.

2. Security Light

If your vehicle is equipped with a transponder key, there will be a security light on the car’s dashboard. In some vehicles, the light shows an image of a lock, but it could also be a key or display the letters “sec.” You might see this security light on the dashboard.

When you turn on the vehicle, this security light will flash. When the transponder key is working, the security light goes out immediately. However, if the transponder needs to be programmed, it will continue to flash.

3. Identification

On the side of your key, there should be an identification number with printed letters and numbers. This is the key identification code. You can look up the key based on this information or ask a locksmith to examine it.

Additionally, the transponder key comes with a chip located in its head. The plastic head will be larger than a simple mechanical key, helping you determine if a transponder is included. If all else fails, you can search for your car model to see if it requires a transponder key.

4. Testing

Locksmiths have special equipment specifically designed for this purpose. If you can’t figure out what type of key you have, take it to be tested.

The machinery can identify whether a transponder is included or not. Additionally, the locksmith can help you program it if you don’t want to get involved yourself.

For some time now, electric cars have been presented as the solution to the automotive industry’s greenhouse gas problems, with the potential to reduce our dependence on fossil fuels and lower CO2 emissions on the roads. However, the transition to electric vehicles (EVs) has been slow, and many people are wondering if the benefits of these cars truly outweigh the costs. For those considering purchasing an electric vehicle, our recommendation would be to explore your options and examine the advantages and disadvantages individually, as they could also be affected by your driving environment, habits, and preferences.

HOW DO ELECTRIC VEHICLES WORK?

Instead of an internal combustion engine, all-electric models use an electric motor powered by a rechargeable battery. The motor generates less noise and allows the car to operate without emitting harmful exhaust gases. The battery stores electricity, an inverter converts the direct current (DC) from the battery into alternating current (AC) that powers the traction motor. These vehicles are equipped with a single-speed transmission system that transfers power to the wheels. To recharge the battery, the EV must be plugged into a charging station or a wall outlet.

THE ADVANTAGES OF ELECTRIC CARS

THE DISADVANTAGES OF ELECTRIC CARS

HOW DOES TEMPERATURE AFFECT THE VEHICLE’S RANGE?

Range can be affected by extreme temperatures (hot or cold). Data has shown that the optimal operating temperature for electric power systems is around 21.5 degrees Celsius. An important factor is the efficiency of the heating and cooling systems. Car manufacturers have tried to develop solid thermal management to avoid performance losses.

ARE ELECTRIC CARS ACTUALLY BETTER FOR THE ENVIRONMENT?

The reductions in annual emissions are clear, but the sustainability of these cars is still widely debated. For example, production processes are still carbon-intensive, and most of them still rely on grid electricity, which is often produced from non-renewable energy sources. The lithium-ion battery recycling industry is also underdeveloped and ill-prepared for the increasing waste management requirements.

There is no simple answer to the question of how long a car battery will last, but it is possible to offer some generalizations based on decades of industry experience. To start, we know that the lifespan of a car battery varies depending on three key factors: time, heat, and vibration. Let’s examine each one more closely.

Like humans, car batteries age over time and have a limited lifespan. Even under ideal operating conditions, batteries gradually deteriorate until they can no longer provide enough power to start an engine. Automobile usage habits also contribute to battery aging. Cars driven primarily on short trips may not allow the battery to fully recharge, and batteries in vehicles parked for long periods naturally discharge. In both situations, using a maintenance charger like the Battery Tender will keep the battery fully charged and extend its lifespan.

Heat facilitates the chemical reaction that batteries use to generate electricity, but it also increases the battery’s degradation rate. In cooler northern climates, a battery may last five years or more, but in hot southern regions, about three years is more typical. Batteries also live in a harsh environment under the hood where temperatures can easily exceed 200 degrees Fahrenheit in hot weather. To combat this heat, automakers may mount the battery in an insulated area, install a heat shield on the battery, or move the battery outside the engine compartment, often under the rear seat or trunk floor.

The final key factor in battery life is vibration, which causes physical breakdown of the battery’s internal parts. To minimize the effects of vibration, special hold-down hardware keeps batteries in place and prevents them from moving. Missing or loose fasteners can significantly reduce battery life.

Although less common than the factors above, a faulty charging system will also reduce battery life. Persistent undercharging or overcharging accelerates battery aging. Some newer cars equipped with Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries require careful control of charging rates for maximum battery life, and the automaker may even adjust the charging strategy as the battery ages. Finally, allowing a car battery to fully discharge will significantly shorten its lifespan, even if it can be recharged and put back into service.

You may have a battery problem if the starter cranks the engine slowly or if the battery/charging warning light is on. Another indicator of a weak battery on older cars is dim incandescent headlights, particularly at idle. However, not all failing batteries reveal themselves through obvious symptoms.

To avoid being stranded by a battery issue, have the battery inspected at every oil change to ensure the cable connections are clean and tight and the hold-down hardware is secure. Once a battery reaches three years of age, have it tested annually. The test will identify if the battery has deteriorated to the point where its replacement is recommended to prevent an unexpected failure. In most areas, members can call the AAA Mobile Battery Service to have a battery tested and replaced (if necessary) at their home or workplace.

There is no “one-size-fits-all” battery suitable for every car. The battery type, physical size, terminal configuration, and Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) or Ampere-hours (Ah) are all important factors that ensure the proper fit and operation of a battery. Installing an incorrect battery can negatively affect your vehicle’s electrical system and cause significant damage if the terminal locations create a short circuit with nearby components. If you are unsure which battery to buy, ask your auto mechanic or consult the vehicle owner’s manual.

Batteries are either conventional lead-acid or the more advanced AGM design mentioned previously. Most cars on the road today use conventional batteries, but some models use AGM batteries which are highly spill-resistant and better able to handle repeated discharges and recharges, as occurs in cars equipped with engine stop-start systems to improve fuel economy. Since charging systems are often optimized for the battery type, AAA recommends always replacing a battery with the same type that came factory-installed in the car.

The group number, for example Group 24, is an industry standard that defines the battery’s physical size, its hold-down configuration, as well as the type and location of its terminals. Selecting a battery with the same group number as the original equipment battery will ensure a secure fit, adequate clearance, and no cable/terminal issues. It will also allow for the proper reinstallation of the important battery heat shield, if present.

Some imported vehicles use batteries conforming to European or Asian battery standards. In many cases, a standard group number battery will fit with minor or no modifications, but pay special attention to ensure the installation poses no problems. Application guides are available where batteries are sold, and you can trust the AAA Mobile Battery Service to install the correct part. In a limited number of cars, the vehicle design makes a factory replacement battery the only viable option.

Cold Cranking Amps, for example 650 CCA, is a standard industry measure of the electrical power a battery can deliver at zero degrees Fahrenheit. Never confuse this rating with “Cranking Amps” (CA), a rating based on an easier test that produces inflated numbers. Some import automakers state battery power requirements using an Ampere-hour rating, for example 78 Ah. This rating is based on the number of minutes a battery can deliver a specified level of electric current, typically 20 amps.

To avoid electrical system problems and a trip to the repair shop, never install a battery with a CCA or Ah capacity lower than that recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. A higher capacity battery will also work if it fits properly, but it is usually unnecessary and may have a shorter lifespan in hot climates.

When your car needs a new battery, always buy one from a high-volume seller with fresh stock. You don’t want a battery that has already lost a significant portion of its lifespan sitting on a shelf. Also look for a battery with a long full-replacement warranty. Quality batteries offer free replacement for three years or more if a problem occurs during that period. A warranty that enters a pro-rated replacement period earlier will require a partial payment to replace the battery once the full-coverage period has expired.

 

The electric handbrake, also known as the electric parking brake (EPB), is an innovative tool that was first installed in the 2001 BMW 7 Series. Since then, it has been slowly replacing the standard manual variant. Their basic functionality is similar, but instead of pulling a lever, as with a manual handbrake, the driver presses a button. An electronic control unit (ECU) then activates the holding mechanism that applies the brake pads to the rear wheels.

DESIGN AND FUNCTION

The operation of electric handbrakes tends to be very similar. Electronic handbrakes have an interface, usually a button, through which the driver can activate them, as well as an actuation mechanism. There are two main types of mechanisms by which an EPB can be engaged: cable-based and caliper-based. Cable pull systems work via a parking brake cable that activates the brakes when pulled. Electric parking brakes with integrated caliper systems instead use a motor-actuated brake caliper that engages the brakes.

In both cases, the signal from the interface is routed through a computer. This can either be part of the electric parking brake or integrated into the electronic stability control ECU.

ADDITIONAL FEATURES

Electric parking brakes have additional features that set them apart from ordinary handbrakes. Due to their electronic nature, electronic handbrakes are usually associated with a dashboard light indicating that the brake is engaged. Since the entire device is electronic, the driver can more easily tell that the car is securely held in place than with a manual parking brake.

EPBs can also be equipped with an automatic hold or hill start function. Electronic parking brakes with automatic hold prevent cars from rolling when stationary or when the driver is about to start. Hill start or hill hold functions work similarly but are specifically designed to prevent the car from rolling when starting on a slope.

HOW TO USE AN ELECTRONIC HANDBRAKE

The way the EPB is activated can vary from car to car, but it usually involves pressing the appropriate button and sometimes also pressing the brake pedal. Cars with manual gear selection typically require you to press the clutch as usual and then engage the accelerator pedal when releasing the first. Electric handbrakes that disengage automatically don’t even require pressing the button when starting.

A hill start with an electric handbrake is quite straightforward, although the exact way to disengage the electronic handbrake when starting the car on a slope varies. If the EPB supports hill starts, it disengages automatically after a few seconds from the moment you press the clutch and activate the accelerator pedal. Automatic cars naturally forgo the use of a clutch pedal. Electronic parking brakes that do not have a dedicated hill start function require the driver to find the right moment to press the button that releases the parking brake.

ADVANTAGES OVER STANDARD HANDBRAKES

Unlike standard handbrakes, electric parking brakes do not require additional muscle power to be used. They activate by pressing a button and lock the car securely. The risk of accidentally applying too little force to the brakes and causing the car to roll later is eliminated. Integrated caliper systems have the additional advantage of being less prone to freezing and brake cable wear. They also save space inside, as the lever mechanism is not needed. Their electronic nature also allows the system to warn drivers of malfunctions by illuminating the “Service Handbrake” indicator on the dashboard. Manual handbrakes typically require a serious malfunction or an undercarriage inspection to detect potential problems. Hill starts are also simpler and safer, whether the device explicitly supports them or not.

PROBLEMS WITH ELECTRONIC HANDBRAKES

Although electric parking brakes have many features that make them safer and more effective than manual handbrakes, they come with their own risks. Being an electronic unit, the EPB is prone to malfunction when the car’s electrical system voltage is low or other issues with the onboard network occur. A dead battery can prevent the brakes from receiving signals, leaving the car stuck in place. Malfunctions or damage to wires or fuses can also affect the electronic parking brake: open, shorted, or broken wires connected to the parking brake ECU can prevent it from functioning properly. Other common problems include the electric parking brake actuator seizing, electrical faults in the ECU, poor communication between different EPB modules, malfunctioning brake pedal switch or gear lever switch, etc.

Electric parking brakes sometimes have manual releases for these situations, but if the EPB does not release manually or automatically and you cannot easily determine the problem, a diagnostic tool is needed to figure out what went wrong with the device. Electric handbrakes are sophisticated mechanisms and difficult for amateurs to repair. An expert technician in a garage equipped to service your car’s make and model is usually required to resolve issues that arise. This applies to replacing brake pads and, of course, any work on the ECU itself.

Conclusion

Overall, an electric parking brake trades ease of repair for simpler activation and increased safety. The ease of use, additional safety, and space savings mean that EPBs will only become more common in the future.

Technology has been making our lives easier for decades, and starting and turning off your car is no exception when it comes to innovation. Nowadays, most cars won’t even start if you don’t have the correct computer chip or car key code. In fact, in some cars, you don’t even need to insert a key. In many contemporary vehicles, simply having the electronic key nearby allows you to start the ignition with the push of a button.

HOW KEYLESS ENTRY WORKS

With keyless entry, you only need to carry the key with you; you no longer need to press a button to open the door. As soon as you approach the vehicle, it recognizes the key via radio. Simply touch the door handle or press a button on the door handle to open the central locking system. Some of these features are available for an additional cost, while others are part of the standard equipment or are combined with driver assistance packages. No data “hacking” or even encryption is necessary to steal keyless vehicles. A simple range extender is enough. A stolen car will run without a key as long as there is fuel in the tank (or it is refilled) until the engine stalls or shuts off.

HOW TO PROGRAM YOUR KEY

The easy and convenient opening of the car door or tailgate and starting the car with the push of a button have long been standard in automotive equipment. It has truly become something most of us take for granted. At the latest, when the remote control’s battery dies, we relearn to appreciate this convenient function. Unfortunately, this happens more often than you think – or worse, the remote key stops working altogether after charging the key battery.

Here are a few simple steps to show you how to program a key code. It is important to note that some manufacturers use their own technology to ensure that only dealerships can make new keys, for security reasons. Make sure to check if this is the case before you begin. Here, we will give you some tips using VW and Audi as examples. First, we will show the practical DIY tips for older vehicles from the VW family (e.g., Audi TT 8N or Seat Leon 1M1 up to 2006). Then, we will show you how to synchronize the radio keys even on newer VW models (e.g., Audi A3 8P or Golf 6 type 5K1 2012 or newer).

1 – CODING A RADIO KEY FOR OLDER VW AND AUDI MODELS:

You will need at least one radio key and a mechanically fitting key duplicate for the vehicle to program it. Note: Purchasing a device for reading error codes is not absolutely necessary for this, but it helps with diagnosis and you can also use it in the future.

Insert the 1st key into the ignition lock of your vehicle (e.g., VW Golf or Audi A4) and turn on the ignition.

Insert the 2nd key through the open driver’s side window into the door lock from the outside and lock the car mechanically by turning the inserted key twice to the right towards the rear of the vehicle.

Now press the lower unlock button on the 1st key in the ignition switch once and wait about 10 seconds. Then, press the unlock button again until you hear the sound of the central locking system.

The radio remote control of the 1st key (in the ignition switch) is now programmed. You can now test the result.

Next, take the 2nd unprogrammed radio key and insert it into the ignition lock and turn on the ignition.

Insert the 1st programmed key through the open driver’s side window from the outside into the door lock and lock it mechanically by turning it twice to the right towards the rear of the vehicle.

Now press the lower button (unlock) of the 2nd key inserted in the ignition switch twice and wait about 6 seconds before pressing it again. Now you will hear the sound of the central locking system. Check the result of the 2nd programmed key. You have now completed the synchronization of the radio remote control for both keys.

2 – RADIO KEY PROGRAMMING FOR NEWER VW, AUDI, AND SEAT MODELS:

For the procedure, you need at least one radio key that is mechanically fitted to your vehicle.

First, carefully remove the cap from the lock next to the door handle of your vehicle (e.g., VW Golf 7 or Audi A3) on the driver’s side. Note: Use your key or a Phillips screwdriver to pry open the cap – be careful not to scratch the paint. Now press the lower unlock button on your key once, then insert it into the door lock.

Manually turn the key once to the left towards the front of the vehicle (unlock) and once to the right towards the rear (lock). Turn it again 1x to the left towards the front and press the unlock button on the key once. Now you should hear the sound of the central locking system and your vehicle will open. The key programming is complete!

WELL-PROTECTED BY DIGITAL RADIO TECHNOLOGY

Cars equipped with keyless locking systems can be easily secured thanks to digital wireless technology. This technology uses ultra-wideband (UWB) computer chips in the locking system, which can be used to very accurately determine the distance of the key from the car based on the runtime of radio signals. When using a radio extender as is the case with this form of car theft, the car no longer responds. Fortunately, since 2018, Jaguar Land Rover has been the first car manufacturer to install this technology in new models. In addition to the Discovery, the same new keyless technology is also installed in the Range Rover, Range Rover Sport (each model year 2018), Jaguar E-Pace, and i-Pace models, according to the manufacturer.

CHECK WITH THE MANUFACTURER

Since the key systems of all cars do not work the same way, we recommend always consulting your manual or your car dealer before starting. This will save you time and effort in case your car’s keyless entry system differs from the models and procedure we have described.