Ask someone to imagine what car maintenance and performance enhancement look like, and chances are they’ll think of a person in overalls covered in grease using various tools and fluids to modify the mechanical parts of an engine or replace an old, rusty part with a shiny, new metal one. Performance is traditionally seen as something that comes from enhancing a car’s mechanics—repairing, modifying, or otherwise tinkering with a vehicle’s physical components.

For some time now, however, it’s not just upgrading the mechanics of car engines that can boost performance, but also electronic and computer technology, which is now an integral part of the cars we drive. In one of the opening scenes of “The Fast and the Furious”—the first installment of the extremely popular car movie franchise—drivers tap on their laptops, see graphics appear, and somehow alter the performance of their top supercars at the push of a button. It seemed like science fiction and something ordinary car owners would never experience. But it’s something we can experience. That something is engine remapping.

WHAT IS ENGINE REMAPPING?

Engine remapping (also covered under the general term “tuning” in the US or known as “chipping”) refers to the process of modifying your car’s engine computer or Engine Control Unit (ECU). “Maps” and “modes” are a range of data tables that take into account both what’s happening with the car in real-time and driver feedback to determine what to do with the engine. They are essentially computer algorithms that work in the background while you drive and impact many engine operations, such as ignition timing, sensors, air/fuel ratio, and turbo boost pressure.

Like software on a phone or laptop, this software that dictates how engine functions operate can be modified, rewritten, or overwritten to change how the car operates and optimize your car’s performance.

The ECU can be remapped to alter almost all of its functions in a way the driver might desire. Professional F1 or rally racing teams widely use engine remapping. They often have a variety of different engine maps that demand different things from the engine. For example, they can change the torque produced when the throttle is opened to account for the possibility of wheel spin when accelerating out of a corner, to handle rain, to account for high altitude, or maps to save engine power for qualifying laps. It’s all about customization.

For the average driver, this isn’t a realistic possibility, as it requires a lot of trial and error to tune an engine from scratch and determine how to affect the various parameters and reconfigure the software. Fortunately, engine remaps can be purchased and installed for you. You can choose from a range of generic engine remaps offering improvements or modifications, or custom remaps. By the time you have an ECU remap installed in your car, it has been thoroughly tested and developed to deliver optimal engine performance.

WHY MIGHT I NEED TO REMAP MY ENGINE?

The reason you might want to change how your car operates may not be immediately obvious. If the car is already installed with the manufacturer’s software, surely that gives the car optimal performance? That would make sense, but unfortunately, it’s not necessarily the case.

When a manufacturer develops a new car, they must account for all possible conditions a car will face in all the different regions where the car will be sold. Since most mainstream manufacturers target the global market, that’s a lot to consider. This means, therefore, that instead of simply optimizing the ECU software to deliver the best performance or fuel efficiency, they have to compromise on the map to account for these potentially different operating conditions. These conditions could include owners using substandard fuels, extreme temperatures or altitudes, different emission laws, and unfortunately, even the possibility that the vehicle isn’t regularly maintained according to the manufacturer’s recommended instructions. If they think poor-quality fuel or engine oil will be used,

A bit more cynically, it’s a relatively open secret that manufacturers program their models’ ECUs so that they don’t operate at maximum output. This is so they can release a “sportier” model with a more efficient engine by simply making small design changes. It’s also possible that performance was deliberately toned down before the car left the factory just to meet product planning targets and specifications.

WILL ENGINE REMAPPING BENEFIT MY CAR?

Remapping can enhance engine performance, which essentially means more speed and more power. The amount of fuel injected into the cylinders, the ratio between fuel and air, and when the spark plug ignites all affect the power you get from the engine. These are all things that can be changed if an engine is remapped, depending on how the programmers designed the remap.

For example, a recent study looked at the role of fuel injection pressure on performance and found that increasing the injection pressure increased engine power by about 12%. By increasing the injection pressure, the fuel particles became smaller, fuel atomization improved, and ignition occurred more quickly, resulting in more power on the piston, greater resulting torque, and a more powerful engine.

The proposed increase in horsepower—brake horsepower, of course, depends on what type of engine you have, but it could be an increase of up to 40 – 50bhp (brake horsepower) for a turbo engine and a bit lower for standard engines. This means that ultimately, the car doesn’t have to work as hard to produce excellent results and overall better performance. Many remapping services also offer a torque increase of up to 80 Nm (Newton meters), and ultimately, the car will feel much faster!

If the manufacturer has limited the power available to the engine or made the throttle less responsive to limit the torque produced in the engine, a remap can make the power delivery much more linear, which will make the vehicle more lively to drive and the engine more flexible.

Similarly, many proponents of remapping claim that it’s also possible to have a positive impact on a vehicle’s fuel efficiency. In theory, if the car has to do less work to operate at a normal level, then less fuel will be used to achieve that level of performance, and fuel economy will be improved. That said, however, it all depends on driving style. Rapid gear changes, sharp and quick accelerations, speeding, and sudden braking can have a negative effect on your fuel economy, increasing consumption by up to 40%. A sudden software change is unlikely to help counter that. The combination, however, of remapping and gentle driving will undoubtedly offer better fuel efficiency than good driving alone.

A good example of this might be that the improvement in torque produced by the engine after remapping means the driver no longer has to downshift to maintain speed (since more torque is available at a lower RPM range) on a slope or doesn’t have to change gears as frequently in traffic. All these small things contribute to an improvement in fuel economy.

WHAT ARE THE RISKS OF REMAPPING?

First of all, before we get carried away with the endless benefits of remapping, it should be noted that not all cars can be remapped, usually due to their age. Typically, cars produced before 2000 are too old and lack the necessary car remapping software to optimize vehicle performance. Those after, especially those after 2002 with OBDII, will be able to be remapped.

It’s also important to understand that remapping your own car is not advisable. Unless you work as a software developer in the automotive industry or are already an industry expert, there’s a lot that can go wrong if you do it alone. Choosing a reputable company to perform the remapping is the best way to avoid disaster. More established companies that provide a remapping service will offer a lifetime warranty on the replacement software, giving you a safety net if you notice problems in the future. If you try to remap yourself or don’t use an expert, the worst-case scenario is that your car’s ECU could be completely damaged, resulting in the engine shutting down entirely. A new ECU will be a very large expense afterward.

Engine remapping could also have a considerable knock-on effect on your insurance premiums. Historically, insurers were hesitant to insure any car that had been modified, and the price was increased if you had tuned your engine electronically. Nowadays, this isn’t always the case, but it’s very important that you inform your insurance company of this (or any other) modification. If you don’t, you risk making your policy invalid if you need to make a claim. It’s worth seeing how a remap would affect your premiums before proceeding with the procedure; increased performance may not be worth the price hike!

If you have a fairly new car, one of the biggest drawbacks is that remapping your engine will almost certainly void the manufacturer’s warranty. This isn’t necessarily a problem if the remap itself goes wrong, as you may have a warranty for the new software itself, but if something goes wrong with your car and the warranty isn’t valid, it would cause serious headaches. You can remap your car once the warranty has expired, or you can be prepared to take the risk—it’s up to you.

Finally, it’s possible that in trying to get great performance for your engine, you end up putting extra strain on it and could damage your car. As mentioned above, manufacturers will often limit an engine’s power and torque from the factory. The car’s standard tires, brakes, and suspension are suited to that chosen power output during the production process. So, if you wish to alter your car’s speed, it might not be able to safely handle the increase in speed and power.

With all these risks, opting for a new map for your engine might seem like a gamble. While this is true to some extent, with proper careful planning, research, and consideration, remapping an engine could allow you to achieve significant gains in performance, improve your fuel economy, and enjoy your driving even more than before.

Buckle up to everything you need to know about seat belts.

What do kangaroos, Hugh Jackman, and the seat belt all have in common? They are all Australian exports… at least in a way. Victoria, Australia, was the first country in the world to adopt legislation making seat belts mandatory in all passenger vehicles in the 1970s, after many studies proved they reduced injuries and deaths in road collisions. The United States followed in the 1980s and the rest of the world quickly caught on.

Today, finding a car without a seat belt is quite a strange experience. As a friend’s father took me for a ride in his classic Aston Martin when I was a child, I remember my muscle memory making me reach for the seat and my shock when I found nothing but the leather upholstery.

There is a good reason why cars are equipped with seat belts and the law regarding them exists for a reason. There isn’t just one type of seat belt, however, and here we will give you all the information you need about the different types of seat belts, what they do, and what the laws are regarding them. Buckle up and let’s get started!

WHAT ARE SEAT BELTS FOR?

The main, and relatively obvious, purpose of seat belts is to reduce the risk of injury or death for passengers in the event of an accident or collision on or off the road. The seat belt keeps passengers as static as possible despite sudden stops or changes in momentum. When a car hits something, it loses its forward momentum. However, anyone in the car is traveling at the same speed and will not lose their forward momentum upon collision. This is where the seat belt comes in. Proper use of the seat belt will keep you in place, so you are less likely to hit the dashboard, wheel, or seat in front of you.

If worn correctly, a seat belt distributes the stopping force over the body of the person wearing the seat belt, particularly the pelvis and rib cage. These two areas of the body are more robust and stable than other parts, so by directing the force there, the belt minimizes the effect of the collision on the body. The webbed fabric of the seat belt is strong but flexible and this should allow for a small amount of movement when working correctly, again to minimize injury or shock. It must, however, be well-fitted.

To give you an example of this, not being restrained in the back of a car during a 30 mph accident means the force of hitting the front seat would be between 30 and 60 times that of your own body weight. That’s a lot of force!

Even if you are a careful driver, there is no guarantee that other reckless, occasional, or aggressive drivers will obey traffic signs and rules. It might not be a collision, but being suddenly cut off by someone or another driver failing to yield can force you to make a sudden or emergency stop. In these cases, your seat belt will protect you from head and neck injuries.

Seat belts also provide a stable driving position. This ensures you don’t move in tight turns and helps you focus on driving safely and reduces the risk of obscured vision. A driver wearing a seat belt therefore generally has better control of the wheel when having to perform sudden forced maneuvers, needing to brake hard, or reacting to other difficult scenarios or obstacles on the road.

With all this in mind, the seat belt will also save you money. If you still need to be convinced to wear one while knowing it can protect you, at least think about the costs of medical emergencies, the loss of work hours if you are injured, and the cost of treating disabilities resulting from accidents. This shouldn’t be the main reason you wear one, but it’s certainly true that an injury will cost you money.

WHAT DOES THE LAW SAY?

Sometimes people complain that seat belts are uncomfortable, too tight, or that they don’t need to wear one because they are just going to the shops or visiting a friend down the street. Unfortunately, the law disagrees and there are strict seat belt laws, although there are a few important exceptions to UK seat belt legislation.

Under the law, if the vehicle seat you are sitting in is equipped with a seat belt, you must wear it. Similarly, only one person can use a seat belt at a time. This applies to both front and rear car seats. Failure to comply with this legislation can result in a fine of up to £500.

In most cases, you must also wear a seat belt during pregnancy. There may be circumstances where your doctor grants you an exemption, but in general, you must wear one at all times.

Wearing a seat belt in case of disability is also mandatory by law. Again, you can be exempted, but this exemption will need to come from your doctor. You may also need to adapt your vehicle to make this possible.

Some older vehicles are not equipped with seat belts (the classic car I mentioned earlier). You cannot carry children under 3 years old in this type of vehicle without a seat belt. Children over 3 years old must sit in the rear seats during a journey.

SEAT BELTS FOR CHILDREN

There are also rules for all children traveling in the car with you, regardless of their age.

Children under 13 or 135 centimeters tall must be seated in a child car seat suitable for their height or weight. If they are over 135 cm or 13 years old, they must wear a seat belt.
If this does not happen, the driver of the car receives the same fine as if they had not worn a seat belt.

SITUATIONS WHERE YOU ARE NOT REQUIRED TO WEAR A SEAT BELT

In some cases, you are not required to wear a seat belt in your car.

MEDICAL EXEMPTIONS FROM WEARING A SEAT BELT

Provided you have proof of authorization from your doctor, there are also several medical reasons why you might not have to wear a seat belt.

Doctors can issue a “Certificate of Exemption from Compulsory Seat Belt Wearing” and you must keep it in your vehicle while driving. The police will ask to see it if they stop you for driving without a seat belt and you must inform the vehicle insurer if you have a medical reason for not wearing a seat belt.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEAT BELT

The typical modern seat belt has a fabric strap that fastens around the driver or passenger. It is connected to a retractor. The retractor is designed with a spool around which the fabric winds. When the user pulls the belt, the spool rotates counterclockwise and allows the fabric to be moved further. When the seat belt is released, the belt winds back onto the spool. This rewinding action is due to a spring that provides the rotational force to the strap spool.

The retractor also has a seat belt mechanism designed to lock the belt in place if the car stops suddenly, causing the seat belt to tighten around the passenger. This stops any unwanted movement. There are several main types of seat belts that cars can be equipped with.

Also called a lap belt, the 2-point seat belt goes directly over the user’s knees to connect to the buckling mechanism and has no shoulder straps. We often find them in buses or in the center seat of cars, but otherwise, they are quite rare as they do not offer the safety and support of other types of seat belts.

A 3-point seat belt is a step forward and has a belt that goes over the user’s shoulder and then crosses their lap. This offers more support for the body and more area to distribute pressure in a collision. These seat belts distribute the force of an impact over the chest, pelvis, and shoulders, thus reducing the risk of injury to users in an accident. The design prevents more injuries than the lap belt alone, so the 3-point belt is the one primarily installed by car manufacturers.

There is also a 4-point seat belt that has two shoulder straps instead of one. This custom-style seat belt is also known as a racing car seat belt. They are similar to those found in a child’s car seat. The difference between them is that the car seat has a strap that goes between the legs; not the racing car seat belt.

Regarding animals, there is no specific dog seat belt, but they must also be secured using an appropriate restraint device or placed in a dog crate. This also applies to other pets.

When it comes to car batteries, there is no one-size-fits-all solution. Several things need to be considered before making a new battery purchase. But if car batteries are not universal, how do you know which battery is best for your car, truck, or SUV? Learn what types of vehicle batteries exist and the most important factors when choosing a car battery to help you find the right battery for your vehicle.

Different Types of Car Batteries

Although the main function of a car battery is to start the car (except for electric/hybrid vehicle batteries, which keep it running), not all batteries are made exactly the same way! Just like vehicle models and versions, batteries come in different types and “levels” – varying in size, power, and features.

Flooded Lead-Acid Battery

A flooded lead-acid battery, also called a wet cell battery, is the most commonly installed type of battery in modern vehicles. Flooded lead-acid batteries are relatively affordable and easy to find. They can be recharged easily and can also operate in many types of climates.

However, a lead-acid battery may have a shorter lifespan than its higher-performing counterparts, especially in extreme heat and cold conditions. Additionally, as its name suggests, flooded lead-acid batteries are literally filled with liquid – an electrolyte solution (aka battery acid). This means that wet cell batteries must be kept upright, which limits their use in certain vehicles. Furthermore, the “liquid” nature of the battery acid inside them makes them more prone to leaks and resulting corrosion, which may require maintenance.

There are two more specific classifications within the broader category of wet cell batteries – SLI (short for Starting, Lighting, and Ignition batteries) and Deep Cycle batteries.

SLI Battery

SLI batteries are designed to provide the short but powerful energy discharge needed to start the engine of most non-electric passenger cars. Although SLI batteries can help power electronic accessories, they are not intended for long-term power supply, as the alternator remains charged. Using your SLI battery to power car accessories while the engine is not running can deplete its charge and shorten its overall lifespan.

Deep Cycle Battery

On the other hand, deep cycle batteries offer a dual punch – they can provide the necessary surge to start an engine or supply a constant flow of energy over a continuous period. Deep cycle batteries are often found in recreational vehicles and boats, which often require electrical power when the engine is not running.

Valve Regulated Lead-Acid Battery

Another type of battery is a Valve Regulated Lead-Acid (VRLA) battery. This type of car battery generally requires less maintenance than the standard flooded lead-acid battery because it is sealed. There are two types of VRLA batteries: gel cell and absorbed glass mat.

Gel Battery

Gel batteries contain a gel solution as opposed to a liquid solution inside the battery. And while these batteries function like flooded lead-acid batteries, they are much more durable. These batteries have higher resistance to heat, physical shock, and fluid evaporation, allowing them to last longer in many cases.

Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) Battery

Absorbed glass mat batteries use glass mats to hold the electrolyte fluid inside the battery, as opposed to the fluid freely flooding the plates inside the battery. Absorbed glass mat batteries function like flooded lead-acid batteries. However, since these batteries are sealed, there is little risk of battery acid spillage.

Electric Vehicle Batteries

As eco-friendly cars become more common, it is essential to recognize the importance of specialized electric vehicle batteries, or EVBs. Most electric vehicles currently on the market are equipped with lithium-ion batteries, which can be very expensive, making them inaccessible to some consumers.

Cost and performance are currently two of the most important factors to consider in an ever-changing world. Engineers and designers are looking for new ways to create a battery that lasts as long as possible while offering a more cost-effective solution.

Different Car Battery Group Sizes

Like your favorite pair of jeans, the right car battery (whether it’s an AGM or an SLI) should fit your car perfectly – and that’s where battery sizes, officially called “group sizes,” come into play!

The group size of a car battery is determined by its length, width, and height. The correct battery group size for your car can usually be found in your owner’s manual or by using our car battery search tool.

Different Types of Car Battery Terminals

It is also important to note that some vehicle models and years require batteries with different types of terminals and configurations. Terminals connect the battery to the car. The most common terminal types found on vehicles today include SAE, JIS, and L terminals.

SAE terminals are cylindrical in shape. In terms of size, the positive post is usually larger than the negative one. On the other hand, JIS terminals are smaller and thinner, hence their nickname “pencil posts.” Like SAE terminals, the positive terminal is larger than the negative terminal in JIS terminals.

Finally, L terminals, which are mainly found in European brands and other types of vehicles (such as lawnmowers, for example), look like small L-shaped brackets. The vertical end of L terminals usually has a hole in the middle where the battery cables can be bolted on.

Additionally, some vehicle makes and models require different terminal configurations – top post or side post. As their names suggest, this refers to the location of the terminals relative to the battery. For proper installation, it is important to follow the manufacturer’s specifications and ensure that all battery cables can easily connect to their respective terminals.

Different Car Battery Cold Cranking Amps

Have you ever noticed that your engine takes a bit longer to turn over on cold winter mornings? You’re not alone! It’s not uncommon for batteries to have a “harder time” getting engines started when operating in extreme temperatures. That’s why the Battery Council International established a standard unit to measure, report, and compare each battery’s ability to provide power at freezing temperatures. This standard battery measurement unit is known as CCA – cold cranking amps.

However, CCA is still a valuable measurement for your battery purchasing decisions, especially if you live in a particularly cold climate. When deciding which battery to buy for your car, a good rule of thumb is to always get one that meets or exceeds your manufacturer’s CCA recommendations.

How to Choose the Best Battery for My Car?

Choosing the right battery for your vehicle is an essential form of maintenance that can help it run longer and more easily. If you’re looking for the best battery for your car, the initial cost is undoubtedly a factor, but it shouldn’t be the only thing you consider.

Remember:

• Your Manufacturer’s Recommendations: Checking the manufacturer’s recommended service information to help you find the right battery for your car is perhaps the most critical factor in your battery purchasing decision. The manufacturer knows your car best – they built it!
• Your Primary Purpose for the Vehicle: If you use your vehicle for particularly demanding tasks, such as frequently taking short trips or carrying heavy loads, you might benefit from a more performance-oriented battery.
• Your Local Climate: If you drive in an area with particularly harsh winters, check that the replacement battery you get meets at least the minimum cold cranking amp requirements for your environment.
• Your Vehicle’s Electrical Accessories and Features: Cars with more electronic features, such as automatic start-stop and heated seats, may require AGM batteries.

 

The automotive industry is getting its fair share of modernization.

We have technologies such as parking sensors, keyless entry, automatic wipers, and much more! It truly is the era of technology. But no matter how advanced the technology is, its functionalities have limits. What’s the use of advanced technology if it’s vulnerable? What’s the use of a key fob if it doesn’t work and you’re locked outside your car?

Fortunately, there is a solution to this problem. We will explain how to bypass a dead key fob.

How to Unlock and Start a Car With a Dead Key Fob

The Engine Control Unit (ECU), also called the Engine Control Module (ECM), is an electronic module that controls the engine’s function. This is done through a series of electronic components and sensors that calculate data to the engine.

Based on what this data indicates, the engine will perform a specific function. If your vehicle has a bad engine control unit, it can cause all sorts of problems with the engine’s operation. As a result, this will harm your ability to drive your vehicle safely and efficiently on the road.

Fortunately, there are certain symptoms you can look for early to detect if your engine control unit is deteriorating.

#1 – Check Engine Light

The easiest symptom to recognize is when the “Check Engine” warning light illuminates on the dashboard. Of course, there are many possible reasons why this light comes on.

But in cases where the engine control unit detects problems with its electronic components, circuits, and/or sensors, it will immediately cause the Check Engine light to illuminate.

Sometimes, the engine control unit will also do this by mistake. To determine if the engine control unit is truly experiencing problems, you need to look for the specific trouble codes on your vehicle’s computer.

These codes will identify the root of the problem. Consult your manufacturer, the owner’s manual, or various online resources to learn more about trouble codes.

#2 – Engine Misfires or Stalls

Another symptom that can follow a warning light coming on is an engine that misfires or perhaps even stalls. There also won’t really be any consistency with these issues. The pattern of engine misfires and stalls will be random, making it difficult to identify the specific engine problem.

Often, this is because the engine control module is failing and providing the engine with false information. If the problem worsens, the engine’s performance will deteriorate during operation.

#3 – Bad Gas Mileage

Since a good air-fuel ratio is necessary for a vehicle to run optimally, a bad ECM will not understand how much fuel to send to the combustion chamber. This means that too much fuel is often sent to burn in the combustion process.

The result is that your vehicle will then run rich and consume more fuel than necessary. Not only will you have to budget more for gasoline each month, but you won’t be doing the atmosphere any favors.

#4 – Poor Engine Performance

Alternatively, a faulty ECM can also result in insufficient fuel supply to the combustion chamber. This means that when you press the accelerator, your car simply doesn’t accelerate like it used to.

It might even shake and vibrate a bit, especially when trying to go up hills, when there is a lot of extra weight in the car, or when towing something. You may also experience rough idling due to not having enough fuel for the conditions.

#5 – Car Won’t Start

The worst symptom is when your car doesn’t start at all. It might be difficult to start initially, but then it will never start again. This happens after a complete failure of the engine control unit, and it doesn’t work at all.

Once this happens, the engine has no computer system to control and guide its own functionalities. Although you might still be able to crank the engine, it won’t start because the computer isn’t providing it with the important information it needs to do its job.

Again, there could be other reasons why your engine won’t start too. The only real way to know if this symptom is related to a failing engine control unit is to have it inspected by a certified automotive technician.

ECU Replacement Cost

If it’s discovered that you truly have a bad engine control module, you will have no choice but to buy a replacement unit or possibly have it repaired. The cost of replacing the engine control unit will depend heavily on the make and model of your vehicle.

The more complex and technologically advanced a vehicle is, the more you will likely pay. ECUs for luxury vehicle brands will cost much more than those for a typical economy car. It’s similar to buying a high-end MacBook Pro from Apple compared to an economy computer from Walmart.

On average, you can expect the parts cost to be between $400 and $1,400, while labor costs are about $100 to $200 for reprogramming and installation. You might be able to save money on a refurbished ECU, but this usually carries a bit of risk.

The average owner of an economy car will end up spending close to $1,000 for a replacement job. Under certain circumstances, an existing warranty on the vehicle might cover these costs if the engine control unit fails prematurely.

Sometimes, you might have a problem with the engine control unit that can simply be repaired. This will certainly save you the huge expense of buying a completely new unit.

However, in most cases, the unit will need to be replaced. The only real time a repair job will be feasible is if there is simply a configuration issue with the computer.

It’s hard to find a modern car that doesn’t have electronic stability control or a variation of it.

ESP has been credited with reducing many road accidents on the roads.

However, many people are confused when they hear DSC, VSA, ESC, or VDC, but all these terms work in the same way. Each manufacturer has its own system.

For example, Volvo uses Dynamic Stability and Traction Control (DSTC) while the ESP system comes from Volkswagen, but the systems are very similar.

The ESP light means there is a problem with your electronic stability program system or you are driving on a slippery surface.

ESP stands for Electronic Stability Program and is manufactured by Volkswagen. When you drive on slippery surfaces, the ESP light illuminates and flashes on your dashboard when it is active.

If the light is steady, you have a problem associated with your electronic stability program.

How does the ESP system work?

ESP does not work alone. It operates in conjunction with traction control and anti-lock brakes (ABS). Modern cars have an onboard computer that monitors most of the car’s functions.

If a wheel slips, ESP will control the other wheels by reducing power and applying brakes to correct your car’s stability.

ESP can also instruct the car’s engine to reduce power if your car is driving dangerously. This will then influence the power delivered to the individual wheels. This is useful when, for example, you keep spinning the car on icy ground, but there is no traction on the wheels. Power will be reduced; therefore, allowing you to have more grip on the wheel.

6 Causes of an ESP Warning Light

1. Faulty ABS sensors
2. Faulty ABS tone rings
3. Faulty throttle body
4. Faulty brake pedal switch
5. Faulty steering angle sensor
6. ABS wiring issues

ESP works with ABS. This makes it difficult to immediately identify the root cause of the problem.

To determine the issue causing the ESP light, it is always recommended to check the fault codes with a diagnostic scanner.

Here is a more detailed list of the most common causes of an ESP light.

Faulty Wheel ABS Sensors

The wheel sensors send information about the speed of each wheel to the ABS control unit. The ABS control unit then measures this information and applies the necessary solutions when one or more wheels slip.

If an ABS sensor fails, it may think a wheel is slipping, but it is not, which will cause the light to come on.

Faulty ABS Rings

The same applies to ABS rings. The ABS sensor measures the wheel speed from the ABS rings, and it happens that these rings break, which will cause it to measure the wrong speed.

Faulty Throttle Body

The throttle body is used to control the power output of the ESP system when your car is skidding. If there is something wrong with the throttle body, it will cause the ESP light to come on.

Faulty Brake Pedal Switch

The ESP system needs to know when you press the brake pedal. For this function to work correctly, a brake pedal switch is installed on your brake pedal.

If this switch is faulty and sends incorrect information, the ESP light may come on.

Faulty Steering Angle Sensor

The ESP system also uses the steering angle to calculate what to do in case of skidding. If your steering angle sensor is faulty or not programmed correctly, it can cause the ESP light to come on.

ABS Wiring Issues

You also have wiring from the ABS control unit to each wheel sensor at each wheel. These wires move a lot due to the suspension, which can often damage the wiring as your vehicle ages.

The simplest method to see this is to measure the ABS sensors from the connector plug of the control unit. To do this, you need to consult a repair manual for the correct pinout.

In the past, your vehicle’s throttle body had a cable that connected to the pedal. When you pressed the pedal, you opened the throttle body and increased the amount of air entering your engine. But as technology advanced, physical linkages were replaced by sensors and actuators.

While this system allows for better air/fuel ratios for improved fuel economy and better engine performance, the trade-off is that if a sensor or actuator breaks, you lose control of your throttle. That’s why car manufacturers have equipped their vehicles with numerous sensors and a comprehensive system to monitor your electronic throttle control.

But what does it mean when your throttle control light comes on and what should you do? More importantly, is it safe to drive your vehicle or should you take it directly to a repair shop? We will answer all these questions and more here.

Electronic Throttle Control Light Meaning

When your vehicle’s electronic throttle control light illuminates, it means your car has detected a fault in the electronic throttle control system.

The electronic throttle control system monitors and controls the throttle position. While older vehicles use a cable directly linked to the throttle body, most modern cars accomplish this through sensors and your vehicle’s ECM.

While this offers many benefits, if anything isn’t working as it should, you won’t accelerate as you should.

Electronic Throttle Control Light Function

Your electronic throttle control light monitors the throttle control system to ensure everything is working properly. When it’s not, the light comes on to alert you that there’s a problem.

The only other time you should see the electronic throttle control light is when you start your vehicle. At that point, your vehicle performs a system check and when everything checks out, the light should turn off. However, if the light stays on, you have an underlying issue that needs addressing.

The easiest way to pinpoint where you need to look is by plugging in an OBD-II scanner. While these tools can’t tell you with 100% certainty what the problem is, they can give you a good starting point for your investigation.

Electronic Throttle Control Light Causes

The most common causes of an electronic throttle control light are a faulty throttle control sensor or a faulty accelerator pedal position sensor. But while these are the most common causes of an electronic throttle light, they’re not the only things that could be happening.

We’ve detailed the three most common problems below.

1. Faulty Throttle Control Sensor

Just because your vehicle’s ECM tells the throttle to open a specific amount doesn’t mean the ECM is convinced it will do so. It actually relies on the throttle control sensor to tell it how much the throttle actually opened and makes air-fuel ratio adjustments based on that.

As any good mechanic knows, you need to trust but verify. That’s exactly what your ECM does by listening to the throttle control sensor. So when things don’t come back as expected, it throws an electronic throttle control light so you can check what’s happening.

2. Faulty Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor

There are several different components in your electronic throttle control system, and an integral part is the accelerator pedal position sensor. This sensor communicates with your vehicle’s ECM to let it know how fast you want to go.

From there, the ECM tells the throttle how much to open or close. But if the ECM can’t get an accurate reading from the pedal due to a faulty sensor, you’ll never get the desired acceleration. If the computer recognizes something is wrong with the sensor, you’ll get an electronic throttle control light.

3. Stuck Throttle Body

It doesn’t matter if everything on the electrical side of the house is working properly if the physical throttle body is stuck. There are many reasons why the throttle body might get stuck, but one common reason is carbon buildup.

Take a look at your throttle body and make sure it can easily open and close. If it can’t, see if you can remove any obstructions and try cleaning it with a high-quality fuel system cleaner. If that still doesn’t work, you might need to replace the throttle body.

Is It Safe To Drive With an Electronic Throttle Control Light?

It is not safe to drive with an electronic throttle control light. While you might get lucky and only experience reduced fuel efficiency or slightly decreased acceleration, the problem can quickly worsen if sensor readings continue to go wrong.

The throttle body controls the amount of air entering the engine, and if your vehicle’s ECM can’t keep an accurate eye on this, it can quickly lead to an uncontrollable engine. If you have an electronic throttle light on, you can quickly damage your engine, which can lead to even more expensive repairs when you get it to a repair shop.

This is true even if you don’t notice a significant drop in throttle response or vehicle performance. This is because the air/fuel ratio isn’t what it should be, which can lead to premature engine wear over time.

Summary

While you might think everything gets more complicated in modern vehicles, these complex features offer huge benefits. Not only do you get better fuel economy, but you get a more powerful and responsive engine.

So even though you might curse the electronic throttle control light now, when you get everything working properly again, you’ll be glad you have it. And despite what the crusty mechanic at the shop might tell you, the old linkage systems broke down from time to time too.

Over the past two decades, a sort of revolution has taken place in the automotive industry. Hybrid electric vehicles are now offered in abundance by almost all major car manufacturers, including Toyota, Honda, Ford, Chevy, Lexus, and many others.

While such a notion might have seemed like science fiction thirty years ago, hybrid electric power is here to stay and appears to play an increasingly important role in how we commute. However, concerns about the longevity of hybrid electric batteries persist for many current and potential hybrid owners.

In fact, many fear that the cost and frequency of hybrid battery replacement outweigh the fuel savings achieved by using hybrid vehicles. This often leaves drivers feeling conflicted and searching for answers.

If you currently have questions or concerns of this nature, read on to learn everything you need to know about hybrid electric vehicle batteries, including the important question, “how long do hybrid car batteries last?”.

Types of Hybrid Batteries

Today, manufacturers use several types of hybrid batteries in their production efforts. Each of these individual battery types varies somewhat in their construction and mode of operation.

Here are the three main types of hybrid electric car batteries.

Lithium-ion

Lithium-ion batteries offer improved lifespan and are gaining popularity with car manufacturers. These batteries typically come with longer warranties, exceeding 100,000 miles, and offer short charging times.

However, lithium-ion batteries tend to be relatively expensive compared to other types of hybrid batteries.

Nickel-Metal Hydride

Nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) batteries are by far the most commonly used of all hybrid electric car batteries. Batteries of this nature are stable and exhibit predictable usage characteristics.

Nickel-metal hydride batteries are also less expensive than lithium-ion batteries, as they have been on the market for a long time now. This type of battery has been a staple of Toyota Prius production for two decades.

Lead-Acid

Lead-acid batteries are perhaps more reliable than any other form of battery on the market. However, their capabilities and storage potential are relatively limited.

The average lead-acid battery is only capable of continuously operating a vehicle for an average of 10 miles in fully electric mode and 20 miles in hybrid mode. Therefore, lead-acid batteries are much more practical in a hybrid situation.

Average Lifespan of a Hybrid Car Battery

One of the biggest misconceptions related to hybrid electric batteries is that they have a relatively short lifespan. This leads to apprehension about dealing with the cost of expensive battery replacement multiple times throughout the applicable lifespan of a vehicle.

The truth is that the vast majority of hybrid owners will only need to replace their main battery once throughout their vehicle’s lifespan.

In fact, it is extremely rare to hear of a vehicle’s hybrid battery being replaced more than twice, even in extremely high mileage scenarios.

Most car manufacturers claim that their hybrid batteries have an average lifespan of 80,000 to 100,000 miles. However, it is relatively common to hear of a well-maintained hybrid battery lasting 150,000 to 200,000 miles.

This means that even in the worst-case scenario, a vehicle would need to average 240,000 miles before perceptibly reaching the point of requiring a third battery replacement. As with any battery, good maintenance is key to hybrid battery longevity.

Hybrid Battery Replacement Cost

The relative cost of hybrid battery replacement can vary significantly from one scenario to another. However, services of this nature are decreasing day by day, as manufacturers use cost-saving measures and battery technology improves.

On average, drivers can expect to pay between $2,000 and $8,000 for hybrid battery replacement. While this may seem like a wide range of potential prices, there are a significant number of variables that go into calculating these costs.

Over time, a greater number of good used hybrid batteries are available from recovered wrecks. These batteries can usually be purchased at a significantly reduced cost and can then be installed by a qualified service professional.

In this scenario, the lower end of the aforementioned price range applies.

However, if a new hybrid battery needs to be purchased and the installation proves to be rather lengthy, leaving room for increasing labor costs, one can expect to pay higher fees.

In any case, any qualified service center should be able to provide you with an accurate quote before installation begins.

What Affects a Hybrid Battery Lifespan?

Many factors affect the lifespan of a hybrid electric battery. The most important of these factors are as follows.

#1 – Charging Routine

To maximize the longevity of a hybrid battery, it is imperative to follow all charging guidelines provided by the manufacturer.

Never plug in your hybrid for a quick 5-minute charge before leaving with an almost depleted battery. It is always best to fully charge a hybrid whenever necessary.

#2 – Temperature Fluctuations

Hybrid electric batteries are designed to operate within a specified temperature range. If a battery of this nature is forced to operate outside this range for extended periods, damage can result.

Regularly driving a hybrid vehicle in regions like Arizona or parts of Canada will reduce its battery’s lifespan, much like a normal car’s battery life is affected.

Most hybrid batteries use a dedicated cooling fan to prevent overheating. It is advisable to have a qualified maintenance technician regularly check the proper operation of this cooling fan.

#3 – Frequency of Maintenance

Most manufacturers specify that a hybrid battery should be tested at predetermined maintenance intervals. Skipping such checks can certainly harm your battery’s lifespan.

If one or more weak battery cells are detected, while all other cells appear to be functioning as expected, reconditioning efforts can be made to extend the unit’s lifespan.

When Should You Replace a Hybrid Battery?

Due to the cost associated with purchasing and installing a hybrid battery, preventive replacement is generally not advised.

A hybrid battery should be replaced when a questionable health test is recorded during routine maintenance, or when the first signs of an imminent failure become obvious.

Most car dealerships that sell hybrid electric vehicles will check your vehicle’s battery as a free service. These regular tests will provide you with some level of information about when replacement is justified.

Similarly, a number of symptoms often occur when a hybrid battery is on its last leg, informing you when the need for replacement is imminent.

These symptoms include shortened charge life, irregular state of charge fluctuations, reduced fuel consumption, and increased engine dependency.

Does Your Car Warranty Cover Battery Replacement?

All manufacturers provide some level of coverage regarding the hybrid electric batteries present in their vehicles. The duration and extent of this warranty often vary significantly from one manufacturer to another.

In all cases, if a battery dies during its coverage period, replacement should be provided free of charge or on a pro-rata basis.

Here are some examples of hybrid electric battery warranties currently offered by various manufacturers.

Manufacturer	Warranty Duration
Toyota / Lexus (2020+)	10 years or 150,000 miles
Toyota / Lexus (2019 and older)	8 years or 100,000 miles
Honda	8 years or 100,000 miles
Ford	8 years or 100,000 miles
Hyundai	10 years or 100,000 miles
Kia	10 years or 100,000 miles
Chevrolet	8 years or 100,000 miles

Hybrid cars seem to be the standard of the future. There are already many people driving hybrid cars on the road, and there will certainly be even more over time. If you believe in global warming, then you can appreciate the fascination people have with hybrid cars and how they can reduce air pollution that is destroying the environment.

Hybrid cars are powered using a combination of electric motors and gasoline engines. The idea is that this combination will reduce the vehicle’s carbon emissions during use. These vehicles cost a bit more than economy cars, but this could change in the future if traditional gasoline vehicles become obsolete.

Top 5 Driving Tips for Hybrid Cars

Before buying a hybrid car, you should follow some driving tips. These tips will help you save on gasoline and get the most out of your hybrid vehicle. Below are the top 5 driving tips for this purpose.

1. Drive Efficiently – Hybrid vehicles were not designed for their performance. They were designed to be efficient vehicles by consuming less gasoline and using more electrical energy to make up the difference. That being said, this does not mean you should race on the highway or try to exhaust as many resources from your vehicle as possible. What you should do is use the gasoline engine just to get the car to the desired speed, then let the electric motor keep you cruising. This is the best way to save on gasoline.
2. Lower Speed – Even if you set your vehicle on cruise control with the electric motor powering it, you will still have less fuel consumption if you drive over 55 mph. When driving on the highway, try to drive at 60 mph instead of 70 mph. This will be the best way to reduce gas consumption while maintaining a sufficiently fast speed on the highway.
3. Manage Battery Charge – You might think that fully charging your hybrid car’s battery would be a wise choice before hitting the road. The truth is that a fully charged battery will consume energy faster than a half-charged battery. Many hybrid car manufacturers recommend keeping the battery charged between 20% and 80%. If it drops below 20% and you are still driving your vehicle, it could end up ruining your battery by not being able to recharge it as much in the future.
4. Braking Helps the Battery – When you use the battery’s electrical power while driving your vehicle, you can actually return energy to the battery every time you apply the brakes. This does not mean you can drive very fast and then brake quickly to bring all that power back into the battery. It means you drive slowly, brake gradually, and try to brake as often as possible. If you do this, you will find that you won’t have to recharge your battery as often.
5. Use Fewer Accessories – Remember that your car has many accessories that also draw power from its battery, such as the air conditioner, radio, heater, etc. If your vehicle has an eco mode, you should use it, as this will result in less consumption of your vehicle’s battery when powering these accessories. Other tips to follow are not using your headlights during the day and using your mobile phone for music and radio instead of your car’s radio.

In newer vehicles, a coil pack replaces the distributor. It is an electronically controlled ignition coil pack regulated by the car’s computer and used to create the spark for each engine cylinder’s spark plug. Generally speaking, coils are much more reliable than distributors because there are no moving parts and because they fire much less frequently than a distributor. Coils typically create a better spark, which in turn produces better combustion and more power in a car’s engine.

How a Coil Pack Works

When creating a spark at the spark plug, the ignition must come from a high-voltage power source so that as much fuel as possible burns in the cylinder. Each time the combustion process is initiated, the coil pack accumulates energy, up to 50,000 to 75,000 volts. When the electronic control module (the car’s computer) sends the signal to the ignition control, the voltage is released from the coil pack through the spark plug wires to the spark plug.

When the spark travels to the spark plug, it jumps across the spark plug gap to ground, causing an explosion of the air-fuel mixture inside the cylinder chamber.

Coil Pack Problems

Usually, if a coil pack is faulty, there will be a loss of ignition or spark in one or more cylinders. This causes what is commonly known as misfires. Misfires can lead to crankshaft drag and typically result in a very rough-running engine.

Common Symptoms of a Faulty Coil Pack

A faulty coil pack will usually exhibit symptoms similar to those of a faulty spark plug. Some of the most common telltale signs that a coil may be faulty include:

• A rough idle
• An engine that is inexplicably louder than usual
• A noticeable lack of power
• A significant drop in RPM when accelerating for no apparent reason
• A check engine light flashing or coming on intermittently
• An active gas warning light when the vehicle has plenty of gasoline
• Exhaust smoke emitting intermittently, instead of a steady flow

How to Test a Coil Pack

Fortunately, there is a simple way to test your vehicle’s coils and ensure they are working as they should. You need to use an ohmmeter to test the coil pack’s continuity. Make sure you have the approximate ohm values for the coil pack. To find this information, search for your car’s engine online or purchase a Chilton or Haynes manual to find out what the mega ohm reading on the coil pack should be.

Coil Packs vs Distributors

While in the past, vehicles used a distributor to transmit the thousands of volts needed to create a spark from the ignition coil to the spark plugs, modern ignition systems now use one coil per spark plug or, in some cases, one coil for two spark plugs. Often, these multiple coils are mounted in a single assembly with multiple terminals, hence the term coil pack.

Coil packs began to be implemented in many vehicles in the late 1990s. The main reason most manufacturers switched to coil packs is that they are more reliable. Many coil packs require no maintenance over a distance of 120,000 to 150,000 miles. Additionally, distributors are very prone to failure if they get wet or if the engine is submerged underwater for a few seconds. Coil packs tend to work even when they have been completely splashed with water.

Besides being more reliable, coil packs are generally credited with providing more power and torque than a common distributor. Because a coil pack typically creates a much more efficient spark, it is also known to provide a slight improvement in fuel efficiency compared to vehicles that use standard distributor caps. Although some modern vehicles still use a distributor system, there are aftermarket upgrades that many car enthusiasts add to improve performance, reduce maintenance, and lower fuel consumption.

Which Coil Pack Works with a Rotary Engine?

Most rotary engines require a different type of ignition coil. Below are two options, one for a standard replacement and another for a high-performance voltage-type coil pack.

Original Equipment Replacement
Beck Arnley is a well-known name in the automotive ignition parts industry. They are favored by many mechanics, especially those who primarily work on import cars. The Beck Arnley 178-8025 Rotary Engine Coil Pack is a direct replacement for original equipment parts on older Mazda cars with a rotary engine. You can expect to pay around $55 for one.

Performance Replacement
M&W Ignition Systems is a fairly well-known name in the import performance market. Their part number PAK005 is a high-performance ignition coil pack for performance enthusiasts who are not afraid to spend a bit more for a high-quality performance part. With prices around $245 for a dual coil pack for direct-fire ignitions, these coil packs will provide years of excellent performance.

When ordering a coil pack for your rotary engine car, you need to know the year and model as well as the engine displacement to ensure you have the correct parts.