Whether you have owned a car for a few years or decades, you have probably heard of a loose alternator belt.

But how do you know when it’s time to tighten or replace it? Is it even possible on all car models?

In this article, we will talk about the symptoms of a loose or faulty alternator belt, its location, and the replacement cost.

Symptoms of a Loose or Bad Alternator Belt

The alternator belt powers not only the alternator but also many other parts in the engine compartment. Therefore, many things can also fail when it becomes loose. Here are the 6 most common symptoms of a bad alternator belt:

1. Battery/Alternator Warning Light

Since the alternator or serpentine belt powers the alternator, it will, of course, cause the alternator to struggle when the belt is loose. There is a battery warning light on your dashboard in most car models, which lights up if there is a problem with the charging system.

When the alternator belt is loose, the alternator does not spin at its optimal speed, which can cause the charging voltage to drop and, consequently, the warning light appears.

2. Squealing Noise When Cold

You have probably heard that many older car models emit a very high-pitched noise during a cold start, which will slowly disappear as the engine warms up.

This is mainly due to a loose alternator belt, which becomes more slippery and wet when it’s cold and creates a high-pitched noise when it slips on the alternator.

If you hear a high-pitched noise when you start the car for a few seconds, it is definitely time to check the alternator belt. You may also experience a constant high-pitched noise if the belt is still loose.

3. Heavy or Jiggery Steering

As I mentioned earlier, the alternator or serpentine belt powers the alternator and other things like the power steering pump. Some car models have a separate belt for the alternator and the power steering pump, but they usually use the same one.

This means that when the alternator belt can also prevent the power steering pump from working properly, you will recognize this as jiggery or constant heavy steering.

4. Flickering or Dimming Lights

When the alternator charges the car battery, it charges it with about 14.5 volts. When the car battery is inactive, it usually has about 12-12.5 volts. When the alternator is not working properly due to a slipping or loose alternator belt, the voltage will also cause spikes and drops.

You will recognize these voltage changes mainly by looking at the headlights or other electronic components. You may see the light become dimmer or brighter, and you may also see a pulsing light in some cases.

5. Sudden Stall

If you have driven very far with a loose or slipping alternator belt, it can become so bad that the electronic components will consume more power than the alternator can produce.

This will cause the car to stall completely, and you will find yourself stuck on the side of the road because there is no chance you can restart it when the car battery is completely drained.

6. Dead Battery

If the alternator belt is a bit loose, it can

If it becomes bad enough, the car battery may even be completely dead the next time you try to start your car.

Just Tighten It or Replace It?

To determine whether you need to replace or tighten the alternator belt, you need to look at the belt. If it has cracks or looks very dry, it is definitely time to replace the alternator belt.

When buying a new belt, you must make sure and compare it with the old belt to ensure you have the same length, as many car models can have many different belt lengths depending on utilities such as power steering, air conditioning, etc.

When tightening the new alternator belt, you must ensure not to tighten it too much. This will result in a much shorter lifespan, and it can even damage the bearings in parts like the alternator or power steering pump.

Most newer car models also use an automatic belt tensioner, so it is quite rare for the belt to come loose. However, it can happen, and if you have a loose belt on a car with an automatic belt tensioner, you must make sure to replace the tensioner while you are replacing the alternator belt.

Alternator Belt Location

The alternator belt is located at the front of the engine. This is not the same as the front of the car because the engine can be installed on the side in many car models.

However, finding the alternator belt is quite easy in most car models; look for a belt around different wheels, and you will probably find it.

In some car models, the belt may be located quite low in the engine compartment and close to the car body, making it difficult to see from above. In this case, you may need to lift the car and check from underneath.

Alternator Belt Replacement Cost

An alternator belt costs $20-100, and labor costs $30-200 to replace it. You can expect a total cost of $50 to $300 for replacing an alternator belt.

The alternator belt is often quite cheap, so if you know how to replace and tighten it yourself, you can certainly save money.

As I mentioned earlier, most modern car models use an automatic belt tensioner, and if you have a loose belt on any of these car models, you need to replace the tensioner. These tensioners are often a bit more expensive, and you can expect to pay $30 – $150 for a new one.

The alternator can be installed very close to the car body, making it very difficult to access. In some car models, you even have to lift or lower the engine to reach it properly.

Is your car not starting and making clicking sounds? Then this article is for you. I just had this problem with my car too and I finally created a routine on how to troubleshoot the car if this happens. Follow us and we will show you step by step what you need to do if this occurs.

When you hear clicking sounds while trying to start your car, there is no clear answer to the problem. There can be several different components that may be damaged or improperly configured.

To start the engine, you need a push from the flywheel, which is controlled by the starter. All these components are powered by the battery, which is why it’s the first part we will check, but again, when the car won’t start and begins clicking, there could be different outcomes or ways to solve the issue.

Car Won’t Start and Makes a Clicking Sound: How to Fix

It is most likely the battery or the starter when you hear clicking when trying to start the engine. There is a series of components involved when you start the engine, and if just one of these components fails, you won’t be able to start the engine.

Step 1. Check the Battery

The most common problem when the clicking issue occurs is the battery. As I mentioned earlier, the battery is the most important component when trying to start a car because it powers the starter and the flywheel.

Check for corrosion or acid buildup around the battery poles and clean if present.

If you don’t know what this looks like, look at the image above; the corrosion is the blue texture you can see on the left pole. If you have something similar on your battery, it could be a reason why your car won’t start; the only thing you need to do here is clean it, which is quite simple.

Use baking soda mixed with 32 ounces of hot water, mix it, and pour it over the connectors. I also like to use a toothbrush afterward to remove all the corrosion. Make sure to wear gloves and glasses when doing this. You don’t want baking soda in your eyes or on your hands, nor do you want battery acid. When you’re done cleaning, use WD-40 to prevent rust or corrosion in the future.

Check the Connectors – You should also check if the battery terminals are loose/the wires going to the poles. If these are loose, you need to tighten them. This is a very common solution, so don’t skip this step. Here is a picture of the two bolts to tighten.

Battery connectors, tighten them. Common problem when your car makes clicking sounds.

If none of these previous steps solved your problem, don’t panic, there is always a solution. Here are a few more points to check.

Check if the Battery is Dead or Damaged

If corrosion or tightening the bolts didn’t work, your battery might be dead or not functioning properly.

What you need to do to check if this is the case is use a multimeter to check the battery levels. If you don’t have one, you can simply buy one here or go to your local store.

When you have your multimeter ready, turn the dial to 20 volts or at least something above 15 volts. Then simply place the red reading cable on the positive pole of your battery and the black cable on the negative pole of your battery. When you do this, a number should appear on your multimeter; this number should be around 12.6 volts.

If the number is far from 12.6, your battery is faulty and needs to be replaced; if it’s around 12.6, we can proceed with further testing. Just because the battery has the correct voltage doesn’t mean it’s working as it should. That’s why we need to do a few more tests to solve the problem you’re experiencing.

Another issue could be that there aren’t enough cold cranking amps (CCA) in the battery. This is a measure that shows the voltage the battery can provide, and you need voltage to start the car.

So, what we do to test this is keep the cables you just placed in the same position, but this time, you want to start the car while you or someone else watches the multimeter. When starting the car, the multimeter reading should not drop below 10 volts. If it does, it indicates your battery is faulty; if it drops below 5 volts, it means your battery is completely dead and needs to be replaced.

2. Check the Starter

If your battery still isn’t working, we need to check the starter. For most people, the battery will be the problem, and the previous steps should solve your issue. So make sure to check those points first. Additionally, you can check if the clutch is working and if your car is in park. Try the simplest solutions first.

The starter is positioned under the car and is difficult to access as an everyday driver, which is why I have a trick for you that you can use to check the starter without even touching it. Just follow along and don’t overcomplicate things, and you should be done in no time! This will be the last step we take; if it doesn’t give us an answer, you’ll need to go to a mechanic to have it checked.

Okay, the first thing to do before testing the starter is to put your car in neutral; this is very important.

Now go to this box; inside you will find fuses and relays. Open the top cover, and you should see a diagram showing all the relays and fuses on the inside of the top cover.

Try to find where it says starter relay on the cover and locate it in the power distribution center.

Locate the relay center.

Don’t be confused by everything you see here; the only thing you need to find is the starter relay. I’ll put an image below so you can see what you need to look for.

So this is the starter relay.

Now, when you have removed the starter relay, you should get yourself a jumper wire, like this one. You’ll only need one. In the previous image, you can see a diagram showing the number of each pin on the starter relay.

Locate pins 30 and 87; they are usually diagonal from each other. Now look at the power distribution center and find the holes where pins 30 and 87 were, and plug the jumper wire into these two holes; your car should now start. If it doesn’t, you know your starter isn’t working, so what you can do is use a hammer and tap on the starter; don’t ruin it, but just give it a few taps; this can solve the problem in some cases. If that doesn’t work and you’re not an experienced mechanic, I would advise seeking help.

Conclusion

I hope this article helped you solve your problem; if so, please leave a comment about your issue so others can see it. If it didn’t, let me know as well. I’m always looking to improve my content to help more people; sharing your experience will help others in your situation. Thank you for reading.

Being confident with your A/C compressor means it is operating at its optimal capacity.

But, being a component of refrigeration, it can also develop malfunctions.

If such a situation arises, you will need the interpretation of your A/C compressor unit.

A qualified technician can do this job for you. The technician must have the right tools and information about the A/C compressor.

One of the necessary tools is an information tool called a pressure chart. The pressure chart plays an essential role in identifying the problem in an A/C compressor unit.

In this article, let’s examine a type of pressure chart called the R134a low-side pressure chart.

Continue reading as you seek to find out what the R134a low-pressure chart is.

Before defining the R134a low-side pressure chart, let’s understand what r134a means.

So,

What does R134a mean?

R134a is a refrigerant used in a wide range of household or industrial appliances. These household appliances are equipped with a refrigeration unit called a compressor.

Inside this compressor is an R134a refrigerant. The refrigerant allows the compressor to perform its function well.

Installing a gauge/meter helps in understanding the regular operation of this component.

The meter displays pressure readings relative to the temperature readings of the refrigerant. In this case, R134a is the refrigerant.

Recording these readings is done on a three-column table. We have the temperature column, the low side, and the high-pressure column.

Usually, we call the table the pressure chart. In this case, since the refrigerant is R134a, our chart will be the R134a pressure chart.

The R134a pressure chart indicates the pressure-temperature relationship with the R134a refrigerant.

The r134a chart comes in two forms,

• R134a low-side pressure chart.
• R134a high-side pressure chart.

The gauge/meter installed on the refrigeration component contains two meters/gauges. We have a low-pressure gauge and a high-pressure gauge.

For the low-side pressure chart, the readings come from the low-side meter. Similarly, the high-side pressure chart records come from the high-side gauge or meter.

So,

What is an R134a low-side pressure chart?

This is a chart detailing the relationship between pressure and temperature on the low side of the A/C compressor.

Is the R134a low-side pressure chart important? Yes.

How?

The technician uses this chart to determine if the A/C compressor needs a refrigerant recharge.

Similarly, it tells you if the compressor requires replacement. Therefore, it determines the condition of the A/C compressor system.

To identify that the A/C compressor unit is operating at its optimal, the technician uses the R134a low-side pressure chart.

Knowing what the R134a low-side pressure chart is can be a challenging task. Similarly, interpreting the reading on the charts is never easy. Remember, the measurement is against pressure.

Therefore, you need to understand what each reading means.

When interpreting this reading, you compare both the low side and the high side of the chart. But this article is about the R131a low-side pressure chart.

So, let’s focus on the low-side readings. Remember, we are comparing the pressure reading to temperatures.

How to read an R134a low-side pressure chart

Well, let me guide you through the process.

Remember this; a performing compressor should have low readings on the low-side pressure chart.

This will indicate that the compressor is clean and there is maximum airflow.

This process will allow you to understand and interpret the readings on the r134a low-pressure chart.

1. On the low side, the pressure is low relative to a high temperature. This should show you two things

• The A/C compressor system is not engaged. Therefore, there is a changing displacement in its operation.
• The compressor operation may be failing. So, you need to replace it with another one.

2. When the pressure on the low side of the chart is high, check the following points.

• Check the condenser fan. It may not be working. Dirt is clogging, and thus there is an obstruction in the airflow.
• There could also be an obstruction of the refrigerant flow in the compressor.

3. On the low side of the chart, the pressure is low while the temperature is high. This should mean the system is not operating at its optimal capacity.
4. When you look at the R134a pressure chart, you realize the pressure is almost equal on both sides. Consider the following.

• The displacement function of the A/C compressor is not working and therefore needs to be checked.
• The A/C expansion valve may not be working.

In other words, the A/C compressor could be failing internally.

Wait a minute, I know you are now wondering and asking,

What are the normal operating pressures for R134a?

The pressure for a normally operating R134a is between 22 and 57 pounds per square inch (PSI).

Remember, there are two sides to the chart; we have the low and the high.

Therefore, in a normal R134a, the low-pressure side is 90 degrees or less and the PSI should be close to 30.

After going through all the details above, you are still wondering,

Why is my AC low-side pressure high?

As I mentioned in the reading interpretation part above, point number two to be precise.

High pressure on the low side of the pressure chart is not a good indicator. In other words, the A/C compressor unit of your appliance might be failing; therefore, it needs servicing.

Looking at it more closely, the technician should be able to note the following,

• The condenser fan may not be working due to clogged dirt. Thus, there is an obstruction in the airflow.
• The refrigerant could not flow properly.

A qualified person with the right tools can identify all the above issues.

Conclusion

The r134a low-pressure chart is essential for every technician. Whether for home inspection and interpretation or commercial interpretation.

The chart helps inspect, identify, and resolve issues resulting from the readings. If you are a technician, consider having it at all times.

Car air conditioning is a vital feature of a car. Its main task is to cool and remove humidity from the air. So, how does car air conditioning work? This article reveals it to you.

Here’s how a car air conditioner works

A car air conditioning system works like a home or office air conditioning system. It is crucial, especially in hot weather.

In the modern world, it is difficult to find a current car without an air conditioning system. The system provides you with a comfortable and relaxed drive, particularly during the summer season.

Some people do not know how a car’s air conditioning system works. Some assume it’s cold air in the vehicle.

But this is not true; the system does not have the ability to create cold air. Instead, it removes the heat and humidity that are already inside your vehicle.

This process leaves your car in a relaxed state, allowing you to enjoy your drive.

The AC system works by regulating the airflow in the car to a precise temperature. Furthermore, it ensures there is no moisture content.

Therefore, the system allows you to better cool and heat the interior of your vehicle. Additionally, it also defrosts the windshield, giving you a clear view.

Understanding the different components of the air conditioning system is crucial. This will help you understand how the process works better. Moreover, you need to know how they function.

Operation of Air Conditioning System Components

With global warming, the weather has changed lately. Most regions of the world have experienced hot and cold seasons. As a result, an air conditioning system in a vehicle becomes indispensable.

With global warming, the weather has changed lately. Most regions of the world have experienced very hot and cold seasons. Therefore, an air conditioning system in a vehicle becomes indispensable.

As a result, car manufacturers have developed a car air conditioning system. This helps to cool and warm the car.

Refrigerant gas is the most useful product in this system. It refers to a gas used to pressurize the air conditioning system.

All air conditioning systems use similar components for the system to function. These are the compressor, the receiver-drier, the thermal expansion valve, the condenser, and the evaporator.

Find more details on each component discussed below.

1. Refrigerant

Although it is not a component of the car’s air conditioning system, it is the system’s lifeline. It is not possible to experience cooling comfort in your vehicle without the refrigerant.

At low temperature and pressure, it takes a gaseous form. Furthermore, it takes a liquid form when subjected to high pressures and temperatures.

Thus, this gas is essential and plays an important role in the air conditioning system. Every vehicle has a specified amount of refrigerant used to fill the system.

In passenger vehicles, it is typically about three or four pounds of refrigerant maximum.

2. The Compressor

The compressor is an essential element of the car’s air conditioning system. It is a pump attached to the engine’s crankshaft, which drives it by giving it power.

Its main function, as its name suggests, is to compress the refrigerant. The refrigerant enters the compressor in a gaseous state and under low pressure.

When you turn on your air conditioner, you compress the vaporized or gaseous refrigerant in this component. The purpose of compression is to ensure it is under high pressure.

The pump drive forces the gas towards the condenser. Compressors can only compress gases and not liquids.

3. The Condenser

The main task of a condenser in this system is to condense the refrigerant from the compressor. Condensation occurs as a result of rapid cooling by hot or warm air.

The moisture or water vapor in the hot air forms a liquid state after condensation.

In the modern car air conditioning system, it is the most recognizable part.

At this stage, you transition the refrigerant from the gaseous state to the liquid form. You achieve this condensation by pressurizing the refrigerant.

The condenser cools the refrigerant with the air circulating around the tubes. The cooling process turns the gas into a liquid.

Thus, the refrigerant turns into a high-pressure fluid. At this point, it is ready to enter the next component.

4. Receiver-Drier

This component acts as a reservoir. It prepares the liquid for transfer to the evaporator. Yet, in this reservoir, there are desiccants, which is a drying agent. Desiccants are small granules that attract water.

Removing the water element at this stage is essential. If you do not remove it at this stage, it can turn into ice crystals.

These ice crystals are capable of damaging the entire air conditioning system. The desiccants at this stage remove all water elements, thus protecting the system as a whole.

The collapse of your vehicle’s air conditioning system can make your driving uncomfortable. Although you can open your windows during the hot season, it is not very helpful.

Windows can lead to excess wind when you drive fast, making you uncomfortable. Furthermore, it can let in undesirable substances such as dust.

5. Thermal Expansion Valve

In this valve, the expansion of the liquid occurs by changing the high pressure to low pressure. The expansion minimizes the pressure on the refrigerant.

As such, it further prepares the fluid before transferring it to the evaporator.

The valve’s design helps it detect pressure and regulate the refrigerant flow. This also allows for the regular operation of the system.

The moving parts of the valve can sometimes wear out, requiring replacement.

Furthermore, instead of using the valve in question, you can use an orifice tube. Yet, it performs the same task, which allows the expansion of the refrigerant.

This also reduces the pressure, before the refrigerant enters the next component.

Moreover, the orifice tube has no moving parts. It allows the refrigerant to flow at a constant rate.

But, over time, it gets clogged by debris. A system that uses an orifice tube turns off and restarts the system. It does this to control the refrigerant flow.

6. The Evaporator

The evaporator is the central part of the air conditioning system. Its location is in the cabin, on the passenger side.

All other AC components are located in the engine compartment. The evaporator has a similar design to a radiator.

But it is smaller and has tubes and fins. The design of these tubes and fins contributes to heat absorption.

When the refrigerant enters the evaporator coil, it freezes at zero degrees Celsius. The low temperatures are the reason why you must remove all water. Furthermore, the refrigerant enters the evaporator coil as a low-pressure fluid.

However, this refrigerant does not freeze at zero degrees. But its boiling point is relatively low; the heat from the passenger compartment is enough to boil the R-134a in this component.

After boiling, the R-134a changes to a gaseous state, which helps it absorb heat.

For vehicles that use the orifice tube system, it works differently. The system has an accumulator located between the compressor and the evaporator.

Sometimes this tube releases excess refrigerant to the evaporator.

The compressor can only compress gas and not liquid. Thus, the accumulator draws in the excess fluid before it enters the compressor.

Additionally, the evaporator absorbs moisture in the vehicle, thus giving you a cool feeling.

Dirt, moisture, and pollen condense on the evaporator coil. If water starts dripping under your car after stopping, it’s the AC evaporator.

Such drips should not worry you and your vehicle is in good condition.

The Air Cooling Process in an AC System

This process begins at the vehicle’s air conditioning compressor. This is where the compression of the refrigerant into the high-pressure state occurs.

Compression causes the liquefaction of the refrigerant. It then heads to the condenser, through high-pressure lines.

The condenser allows the liquid to mix with the outside air. The mixture causes the atmosphere to absorb heat from the liquid.

Next, the fluid flows either into the orifice tube or the expansion valve. Here, it transforms into a gaseous form on the low-pressure side of the air conditioning system.

It then flows into the accumulator containing a desiccant bag. The bag collects unwanted moisture, among other impurities.

The clean refrigerant then flows into the evaporator through the tubing. In this state, it can collect heat from the air passing through the fins. This process leaves cooler air.

Conclusion

Finally, you now understand “how car air conditioning works”. All components work together by each contributing their part.

However, all elements are essential. If one part fails, the entire process collapses. Thus, you must ensure that every part is in good condition.

The car’s air conditioning system has three tasks to perform. First, cooling the car’s interior is very important, especially during the hot season. This ensures you have cool temperatures in your car.

Furthermore, heating the interiors during cold seasons is also important. You need heat in your car when it’s cold outside.

Finally, defrosting the windshield is the most crucial task of the air conditioning system. It is generally frustrating to keep struggling to see through your windshield.

As a result, it can affect your driving, leading to an accident.

There was a time when vehicles weren’t equipped with sophisticated computer systems. These cars and trucks used pneumatic and mechanical systems to regulate idle, valve timing, and fuel supply. Today, vehicles are equipped with several actuators and sensors connected to computers, ensuring everything works as it should. Some of these computers include the PCM, ECM, ECU, and TCM.

But what’s the difference between PCM and ECM, ECU and TCM? Are they all the same things with different names or do they each have a unique job? We examine each module to determine how it’s used in your vehicle.

• TCM = Transmission Control Module
• ECM = Engine Control Module
• ECU = Engine Control Unit
• PCM = Powertrain Control Module

What is a PCM?

PCM stands for Powertrain Control Module. In one module, this technology combines both the TCM and ECM, which is why it’s found in newer models. Before this technology, a TCM and ECM were needed to do the same job.

A Powertrain Control Module manages your vehicle’s emissions, transmission, and charging systems. As a powertrain module, it’s also responsible for overseeing the transmission and engine.

The PCM manages more operations than the ECM and TCM could alone. With the sensors in place and data transferred, it makes quick adjustments to ensure optimal engine efficiency and performance. Over time, it also learns more about operations to make it even more efficient.

Some of the aspects managed by the PCM include:

• ABS braking
• Gear shifting
• Air/fuel ratio
• Emissions
• Variable valve timing
• Charging rate
• Idle
• Fuel injection
• Ignition timing
• Electronic differential performance

Of course, this list could go on because the PCM acts as the heart and brain of the modern vehicle.

What is an ECM or ECU?

ECM stands for Engine Control Module, while ECU stands for Engine Control Unit. Although these two have a different name, the modules are essentially the same thing.

These electronic modules control several vehicle systems, including ABS, airbags, cruise control, and air conditioning. However, the engine is what the module is primarily responsible for. It optimizes performance and ensures efficiency by controlling ignition, fuel injection, and airflow.

Using various sensors, the ECM interprets data, determining which systems need to be adjusted. It chooses the response to follow to create optimal running conditions. The manufacturer programs it to work with a specific vehicle, so it cannot be swapped with another ECU.

The ECM works in conjunction with air-fuel sensors, MAF sensors, oxygen sensors, crankshaft and camshaft position sensors, coolant temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, and EGR valve sensor to ensure everything works as it should. Upon startup, the ECM will undergo a full system check to ensure proper performance. If something isn’t working correctly, it can also put the vehicle into limp mode until repairs are made.

What is a TCM?

TCM stands for Transmission Control Module. It may also be called TCU or Transmission Control Unit, but TCU should not be used to describe this because it can also mean Telematics Control Unit.

The TCM enables gear shifting in automatic vehicles. The manual transmission car will not contain a TCM because the driver manages gear changes.

Various sensors are used to transmit information to the TCM, allowing the transmission to shift gears in an optimized way for better performance and fuel efficiency.

Some of the sensors working with the TCM include wheel speed sensors, turbine speed sensor, transmission fluid temperature sensors, vehicle speed sensor, and throttle position sensor. Additionally, the TCM monitors acceleration rate, road gradient, vehicle speed, and deceleration rate for optimized control.

Faulty Module Symptoms

The PCM, ECM, and TCM will all create symptoms when malfunctioning, most of which are performance issues.

• Engine won’t start
• Transmission not shifting smoothly
• Poor fuel economy

Engine Won’t Start

When any of these vital modules deteriorates, the engine may not start at all. When you start the engine, any fault can cause the system to shut down to protect it from further damage.

Additionally, the engine may run with issues. If you notice misfires, stuttering, rough idle, or stalling, it could be due to a faulty module. When this happens, you may also see warning lights on the dashboard.

Transmission Not Shifting Smoothly

When the modules deteriorate, they can affect the transmission’s operation. You might notice rough gear shifts and inappropriate shift times.

There may also be some hesitation when you press the accelerator pedal. When shifting issues occur, they are often related to the TCM on older vehicles and the PCM on modern models.

Poor Fuel Economy

For optimal fuel efficiency, the engine and transmission must operate as intended. Whenever part of the balance is thrown off, fuel efficiency can suffer.

You might first notice issues when taking the vehicle for emissions tests. However, if you monitor your fuel economy and notice a decrease, you might find the problem early.

Replacing a Defective Module

The average cost to replace an ECM is often between $500 and $1,000, while the average replacement cost for a TCM or PCM is similar. Using an OBDII scanner can help you determine if any of the modules are faulty.

Additionally, there are times when a simple reconfiguration or reprogramming by the dealer can be done to fix the issue. If the update doesn’t resolve the situation, a replacement would be necessary.

Aftermarket modules are available and help you save money, but they don’t always work as they should. The car manufacturer didn’t make the aftermarket chips, so they may require specific software to function correctly.

Some car manufacturers go further and discourage the use of aftermarket modules, for example by creating a problem that can only be solved with the proper module. If you drive a new vehicle, you might also void your powertrain warranty if you use anything other than the OEM module.

Although you can replace the module yourself with basic tools, you might not want to. New modules require programming that is best done at the dealership.

ASC (Automatic Stability Control) is a system that was installed on Jaguar and BMW cars. It first appeared in 1997. It limits engine power, thereby helping to prevent skidding. The system improves vehicle dynamics and handling on slippery roads and also prevents skidding.

HOW ASC WORKS

ASC is closely related to the anti-lock braking system and shares a common control unit with it. Through the ABS sensors, the control unit monitors wheel speed. If one of them starts to slip, the engine control unit (DME) intervenes. It sends a command to the engine to limit the output power. This is achieved by cutting off one or more fuel injectors. Ignition timing and throttle position can also be adjusted.

The system activates automatically when the key is turned in the ignition switch. When driving with snow chains or on sand or fresh snow, it is advisable to deactivate the system by pressing the button on the center console. Hold the button down for a few seconds to deactivate the system.

POPULAR CARS EQUIPPED WITH ASC

• Jaguar XJ8
• BMW 5 Series E39, 3 Series E46, 6 Series E63, 7 Series E65, E66, E67

REASONS FOR MALFUNCTION

ESC stands for Electronic Stability Control. This system is installed on Hyundai, Chevrolet, Škoda, Kia, Lada, and other vehicles. It improves the car’s road holding and helps prevent accidents. It also assists the driver in maintaining the intended path. It is a complex solution that often includes additional functions such as emergency braking assistance, rollover mitigation, and trailer stability assistance.

HOW THE ESC OPERATES

The ESC works closely with other driving aids such as ABS and ASR. It automatically turns on when the key is turned in the ignition switch. It continuously compares the vehicle’s actual trajectory with the intended one to eliminate any difference if necessary.

Readings from the steering wheel angle sensor, accelerator pedal position sensor, and brake light switch are used to monitor the driver’s actions. Meanwhile, the yaw rate sensor, longitudinal and lateral acceleration sensors, and wheel speed sensors provide information about the car’s actual path.

The ABS works in combination with the ESC to maintain the intended trajectory by applying braking force to certain wheels. Additionally, engine torque limitation commands are sent to the engine control unit.

When the system is activated, the corresponding indicator light flashes on the dashboard. The system can be deactivated by pressing the button on the center console.

POPULAR VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH ESC

• Chevrolet Captiva, Cruze;
• Skoda Octavia III, Fabia III;
• Hyundai Elantra V, Sonata V;
• Lada Vesta GFL;
• Kia Soul I, Rio II, Carens IV.

CAUSES OF MALFUNCTIONS

• The system lost its settings after disconnecting the battery terminal.
• A blown fuse.
• Failure of the Haldex coupling.
• Incorrect readings from ABS sensors.
• Broken electrical wiring.
• Overheating of the control unit.

A wide variety of gasoline piston engines are offered in today’s automobiles. One thing they all have in common is spark plugs. And spark plugs are a periodic maintenance item in your car.

A properly functioning spark plug will transmit the electrical signal from the car’s battery to the ignition coil and create a spark to ignite the air/fuel mixture present in each cylinder.

If a spark plug is not working properly for any reason, it can manifest in various ways, ranging from rough idling to poor acceleration and various other symptoms.

This article aims to provide guidance in analyzing your engine’s performance based on a visual inspection of its spark plugs.

Why Modern Day Spark Plugs Last So Long

As already mentioned, the spark plug’s role is to ignite the air-fuel mixture in each of your engine’s cylinders. Modern plugs perform this role admirably. Not so long ago, spark plugs had to be replaced every 10,000 to 12,000 miles.

Today, spark plugs can last up to 100,000 miles without needing maintenance. What has changed?

#1 – Fuel Injection

First, today’s car and truck engines are fuel-injected. Thus, air-fuel mixtures are well controlled by the engine’s computerized control module (ECM). We know that excessively high temperatures are a major enemy of spark plugs. But well-controlled air-fuel mixtures allow for more consistent combustion at lower temperatures than was possible in engines years ago.

#2 – Unleaded Gas

Second, the removal of lead from domestic gasoline has also helped extend spark plug life. When leaded fuels were common, lead deposits on the tips of spark plugs encouraged plug corrosion and prevented proper spark operation, thus negatively affecting their performance.

#3 – Better Materials

Third, we find that today’s spark plugs are made from much more durable materials than those of previous years. The electrical current-carrying component (especially the center electrode) of today’s plugs is often made of expensive platinum, iridium, or copper.

These advanced materials ensure that the spark plug anodes do not burn out as quickly and will carry electrical current more efficiently than older spark plug designs. The most common spark plug types using these advanced materials and their benefits are discussed here.

To help achieve the best engine life and performance, purchasing the highest quality spark plugs is highly recommended. And this includes reaching the manufacturer’s recommended mileage for plug replacement.

Spark Plug Removal

Tools Required

As with any automotive maintenance job, having certain tools on hand will make your life easier. For spark plug removal and reinstallation, the following basic set of hand tools and consumables is required:

• 3/8″ ratchet
• 3/8″ drive universal joint
• 3/8″ drive extensions (3″, 6″, and 10″)
• Spark plug boot removal tool (required for older engines)
• Spark plug gap gauge
• 3/8″ drive torque wrench (10 to 80 ft-lb)
• 3/8″ drive spark plug socket (one of the sizes below):
  • 13/16″ (or 20 mm) for most full-size cars.
  • 9/16″ (or 14 mm) for Ford and newer Asian cars.
  • 11/16″ (or 18 mm) for older BMW cars.
  • 14 mm bi-hex for newer BMW cars.
  • (additional information on spark plug socket sizes HERE)
• Tube of silicone dielectric grease
• Workshop manual for your specific vehicle

To access the spark plugs, you will need the following additional hand tools:

• Set of 3/8″ drive sockets
• Set of combination wrenches (includes sizes from 3/8″ (10 mm) to 1/2″ (13 mm))
• Set of screwdrivers
• Small Channellock pliers
• Shop vacuum with a thin flat suction nozzle (for cleaning around spark plug holes)

How to Remove Spark Plugs to Check Their Condition

Spark plugs are relatively simple to remove. Accessing them can be the main stumbling block. This can be especially true if your car’s engine is a transverse V6. For V6 engines, the plugs closest to the driver can often be the most troublesome to work on.

1. Open the hood. Place an old but clean bath towel on each fender to minimize the risk of your belt buckle scratching the paint. Now, assess the engine layout. Determine the best way to access the spark plugs. Remove any cover(s) and/or insulating panels that prevent access to the plugs.
2. Items such as wiring harnesses, hoses, and electrical modules blocking access to the plugs will need to be removed (or moved aside) to access the area directly above each plug.
3. In most modern cars, each spark plug will have an electronic module (the ignition coil) above each of the spark plugs. For older cars, a single large-diameter wire will go to the top of each spark plug. In this case, no coil will be present.

4. If there is an ignition coil above each spark plug, it will need to be removed. Each coil will have a low-voltage cable connected to a connector. This cable must be unplugged.
   • Study this connector. It will likely have a latch that needs to be moved or pressed to release it. Often these latches are a contrasting color. Using a screwdriver, release this latch. Remove the connector from the coil housing.
   • Remove the fastener holding the coil in place and remove the coil from the spark plug.

5. If there is no ignition coil above each spark plug, use the boot removal tool to remove the spark plug boot directly from the spark plug. Always grasp the boot as close to its base as possible. Gently wiggle the boot while pulling to help it come loose. Never remove a boot by grabbing its associated spark plug wire.
6. Using the appropriately sized socket, extension, and universal joint if necessary, remove the spark plug. Make a note or label for each plug so you know which cylinder each one came from. If the spark plug hole is accessible, wipe the flat or tapered seat of the cylinder head with a clean cloth. With your Shopvac (or household vacuum), use the flat suction nozzle to vacuum dirt from that area.

Note: be careful to avoid dropping small parts or dirt into the spark plug hole. Even a small screw dropped into the combustion chamber could severely damage the engine.

Spark Plug Conditions and Colors

Living at the top of the combustion chamber, each spark plug will be affected and marked by everything that happens there. Therefore, inspecting each spark plug can reveal a lot about how your engine is operating.

This is where knowing which cylinder each spark plug came from can be useful. You may later need to inform your service technician about the cylinder that has a problem.

#1 – Normal Condition

The insulator around the center electrode is grayish-white or yellowish-gray to brown. The side electrode is clean. This tells us that the combustion processes are normal.

There may be very slight oil burning, but nothing to worry about. Your engine is running well.

#2 – Sooted/Carbon Fouled

Plug surfaces evenly coated with dull black deposits.

Cause: Engine running too rich (too much fuel); dirty air filter; air-fuel mixture control at engine startup not working properly; excessive short-distance driving; incorrect spark plug.

#3 – Oil Fouled

Plug parts have a wet or shiny black coating.

Cause: Excess oil in the combustion chamber due to: oil level too high; crankcase ventilation system not working properly; piston rings and/or valve stem seals are very worn or broken.

#4 – Lead Fouling

Plug parts coated with a brownish-yellow glaze that may include a greenish tint. The glaze can be thin or thick and/or partially flaked.

Cause: Use of leaded fuel (usually not available in the US) or use of fuel additives containing lead.

#5 – Ash Fouling

Plugs coated with a thick, light-colored compound resembling ceramic. Brittle. Can be chipped with a fingernail or jackknife.

Cause: Excessive use of fuel and/or oil additives.

#6 – Center or Side Electrode Eroded/Melted Away

The center insulator may also be blistered or soft.

Cause: Spark plug and combustion chamber overheating due to poor quality fuel (octane rating too low); ignition timing too advanced; pre-ignition; engine running lean; incorrect spark plug.

#7 – Heavy Wear of Center Electrode

Electrode partially or completely worn away.

Cause: Spark plug has exceeded its service life; plug gap too large; incorrect spark plug.

#8 – Heavy Wear on Side Electrode

Electrode partially or completely worn away.

Cause: Poor quality fuel (octane rating too low); pre-ignition; excessive use of fuel and/or oil additives.

#9 – Center Electrode Insulator Nose Fractured

Small piece of insulator missing.

Cause: Mechanical damage (the plug was dropped); excessive deposits along the center electrode; the plug has exceeded its service life.

Installing New Spark Plugs

1. Unpack your new spark plugs. Generally, spark plugs come from the manufacturer with the proper gap. However, it is wise to check this gap before installing them. The gap dimensions can be found in your workshop manual.
   • Using the gap tool, check the gap between the center and side electrode. Spark plugs with multiple side electrodes (two or more) will have a factory-set gap and do not need to be checked.
   • Using the bending tab on the gap tool, slightly bend the side electrode to achieve the proper gap. Do not bend the electrode excessively. A very slight gap change should suffice. Check and properly adjust the gap for each plug.
2. Firmly press a new plug into the spark plug socket. Guide the socket and plug to the spark plug threaded hole. This may be easier to do with an extension on the socket.
3. Now turn the socket clockwise (CW) by hand to screw the plug into the hole. The spark plug should screw in easily. If not, there may be cross-threading. In this case, do not force it, but remove it and realign it. Then try tightening it by hand again. Screw the plug in all the way.
4. Find the spark plug torque value in your workshop manual. If your torque wrench is adjustable, set it to this value. Tighten the plug with the torque wrench.
5. Apply a light coat of dielectric grease to the inside diameter of the spark plug boot. Firmly press the spark plug wire or coil boot onto each spark plug. Reinstall the power connector on each ignition coil.
6. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for each spark plug.
7. Reinstall all parts previously removed to access the plugs. Reposition wiring harnesses, hoses, and/or modules that were temporarily moved aside for access. Ensure that no wires or hoses are now contacting hot surfaces like exhaust manifolds.
8. The plugs are now installed. You can start the engine. It should start and run properly.

Perhaps you’re performing routine maintenance and discovered oil on your spark plug threads. Or maybe you were investigating why your vehicle had low oil levels and found your spark plugs covered in oil.

Either way, now that you’ve found it, you’re likely asking a few questions. Are you supposed to have an oil leak in the spark plug wells? Is it serious and what’s causing it?

We’ll answer all these questions here and – spoiler alert – it’s not normal. You’ll want to fix it as soon as possible.

Reasons There’s Oil On Your Spark Plugs

Once you’ve discovered oil on your spark plugs, it’s time to find out why it’s there. It’s not like there’s a leaking spark plug gasket – so what’s happening? We’ve highlighted the most common reasons why there might be oil on your spark plugs below.

#1 – Leaky O-Ring Seal

Although your spark plugs don’t have gaskets, they use O-rings. These O-rings keep oil and everything else on one side of the spark plug and the other side stays dry.

If you only have oil on a single spark plug, you might have a leaking O-ring. This is one of the best outcomes if you have oil on your spark plugs. However, you still need to address the issue as soon as possible. Leaking O-rings can cause your engine to misfire and lead to more significant damage.

#2 – Blown Head Gasket

While coolant in your compression chamber is what most people associate with a blown head gasket, another fluid that could leak is oil. When this happens, it’s common for oil to enter the combustion chamber.

You’ll notice excessive smoke and there will be oil on the tip of your spark plugs. You’ll need to replace the head gasket before the problem worsens and leads to more serious issues. The good news is that head gaskets are cheap – the bad news is that it’s a labor-intensive process.

#3 – Worn/Leaking Valve Guides

Valve guides ensure that your intake and exhaust valves remain in the proper position at all times. Not only that, but they have seals that prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber.

If these seals give way, then oil enters the combustion chamber, and it’s a quick hop, skip, and a jump away from getting onto the spark plug threads.

Like other components here, the valve guides themselves aren’t that expensive, but they require a lot of labor and time to replace, which can lead to a hefty bill at the repair shop.

#4 – Valve Cover Gasket Leaking

Your vehicle uses valve cover gaskets to keep oil near the components that need it and away from those that don’t. One of the components it keeps oil away from are the spark plugs. But if the valve cover gasket is leaking, oil can easily seep into the spark plugs.

Like head gaskets, valve cover gaskets are cheap, but replacing them is labor-intensive.

#5 – Damaged Piston Compression Rings

Around each piston in your engine, there are compression rings that prevent oil from seeping into the combustion chamber. But when these compression rings are damaged, nothing stops oil from entering the combustion chamber.

These rings ensure everything runs smoothly and prevent larger problems. So, if you suspect damaged compression rings, it’s best to repair them as soon as possible.

#6 – Damaged Piston

Although damaged or cracked pistons are rare, it’s not entirely unheard of. Combustion chambers get extremely hot, and as pistons age, this heat can become too much for them. If you have a cracked piston, you’ll need an engine rebuild, which is not a cheap process.

However, if you let the problem go, you risk breaking down on the side of the road and potentially completely destroying your engine. Cracked or damaged pistons are not an issue you can ignore.

How to Get Oil Out of Spark Plug Wells

If there’s oil in the spark plug wells, you might be wondering what you need to do to remove it. The truth is that it’s more important to find the source of the problem and fix it.

That’s because the oil will enter the compression chamber and burn. As long as there’s no more oil leaking, that’s the end of your problem.

So, while oil on your spark plugs is a big issue, you don’t need to disassemble your engine to clean it. Once you’ve found and fixed the faulty component, you should be good to go.

However, if you’re concerned about the excess oil, all you need to do is spray some carburetor cleaner into the spark plug holes and let the oil drain into the combustion chamber. Reinstall the spark plugs and let your engine burn off the excess oil.

Can You Drive With Oil On Your Spark Plugs?

In short, yes, you can drive with oil on your spark plugs, but you’ll want to figure out how it got there. That’s because oil on your spark plugs is not a normal condition, and it could be a much more serious problem.

Oil on the spark plugs isn’t the issue – it’s how the oil got there that can damage your engine.

Can you Clean and Reuse Spark Plugs?

Absolutely! Once you’ve completed the necessary repairs to prevent oil from coming back, use a carburetor cleaner to spray the electrode and threads and let it all dry. Once dry, reinstall the spark plugs and you’re good to go!

A remote keyless entry system is a type of electronic locking system used in modern vehicles to control access to the car. As the name suggests, the system uses a handheld device to lock or unlock the vehicle’s doors. Keyless entry systems can use traditional fob remotes or advanced smart keys.

What is a Remote Keyless Entry System and Do I Need Key Fob Programming?

Key fobs, also known as keyless entry remotes, are useful for controlling the locks, trunk, panic alarm, and even the remote starter of your car from hundreds of feet away.

Vehicle security has evolved significantly over the years. Early vehicles used mechanical locks and key combinations to unlock car doors. Nowadays, modern vehicles are equipped with sophisticated locking systems that are safer than their predecessors. While the automotive industry is moving towards keyless entry systems, mechanical door locks are still widely used.

Like other mechanical locks, traditional car locks can be picked. On the other hand, keyless entry locks are harder to break because the locks are electronic and secured with codes that are difficult to decipher.

A more advanced form of keyless entry key allows the car owner to open the car doors and start the engine without physically pressing a button or inserting a mechanical key. These so-called “smart keys” rely entirely on sensors to unlock the doors and start the ignition. However, smart keys still use mechanical keys as a backup.

How the Remote Security System Works

The remote system affects two aspects of vehicle security: entry and ignition. The system uses transmitters, transceivers, or transponders. These devices communicate by emitting and receiving radio signals. When the onboard computer receives a signal from the receiver, it then sends a signal to the car door actuators to unlock or lock them.

All key fobs operate at a frequency between 300 and 400 MHz. To prevent other car owners from accessing your vehicle, the remote signals must be unique. The keyless entry system uses “rolling” or “hopping” codes to generate this unique signal. The codes are changed each time the remote is used. Hence the name rolling or hopping.

In addition to excluding other remotes, rolling codes deter thieves from using code grabber devices, as the codes are refreshed every time the remote is used. Key fob codes are also encrypted, making it extremely difficult for thieves to decipher the signals.

Some key fobs come with engine immobilizer devices for added security. The system is designed to prevent the engine from being hot-wired by preventing fuel from flowing to the engine. Just like the keyless entry system, the engine immobilizer works via radio signals and uses rolling codes that are refreshed with each use.

Immobilizer devices provide extra security, especially when the mechanical key provided with the key fob is duplicated. The duplicate key will not be recognized by the vehicle even if it is an exact copy. The key fob must contain the code that the vehicle’s ignition system identifies for it to work.

The more advanced smart key system works exactly like keyless entry remotes. Smart keys also use radio signals and rolling codes. However, the difference is that smart keys use sensors to detect the proximity of the smart key (and the person holding it) to the vehicle. The smart key system automatically unlocks the doors, disengages the immobilizer, and starts the ignition when it detects that the key is nearby.

What You Need to Reprogram When Key Fob Programming is Questioned (Software, Tools, etc.)

Replacing the remote is not as simple as replacing your TV remote. The remote must be reprogrammed for the onboard computer to recognize the new remote. You may also need to program new remotes that you want to use as spares.

Reprogramming your remote can be done manually or using programming devices. Most modern vehicles have built-in remote programming functions. The programming procedure may vary from model to model, but the crucial steps are the same. Basically, the car is manually set to programming mode to recognize the key fob to be programmed.

Key fobs can also be reprogrammed using dedicated key programming devices or software applications. (Provide examples of devices and software)

How to Reprogram Key Fob Remotes?

Before programming your remote, make sure its battery is sufficiently charged to power the device. To program remotes without an immobilizer, follow these steps:

Step 1: Enter your vehicle and lock the doors.

Step 2: Ensure the door locks are engaged to not disrupt the reprogramming process.

Step 3: Insert your car key into the ignition switch and turn it to the “ON” position.

Step 4: While the key is in the “ON” position, press the “Lock” button on the remote.

Step 5: Turn the key back to the “OFF” position.

Step 6: Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 in quick succession, at least four times until you can hear the lock cycle.

Step 7: Test the reprogrammed remote to see if it works.

Step 8: If everything checks out, congratulations! You have successfully programmed your remote.

How to Reprogram Smart Key Fobs with Immobilizer Devices?

Reprogramming smart remotes with immobilizer devices is more challenging than standard keyless entry remotes. This is because the immobilizer system has its own security code. This is also true when programming remotes with duplicate mechanical keys.

Before programming your duplicate key fob, ensure the blank key blade is machined to match the profile of the original key. To program smart keys, follow these steps:

Step 1: Insert the unprogrammed duplicate key into the ignition switch,

Step 2: Connect your programming device to your vehicle’s OBD2 port.

Step 3: Run the programming software compatible with your vehicle and programming device. (See example above)

Step 4: Carefully follow the instructions provided by your programming device.

Step 5: Wait for the programming device to program your remote with a new code.

Step 6: Check if the key is recognized by your vehicle by starting the ignition.

Step 7: If everything is in order, you have successfully programmed your key.