A single small defect on one component can affect the overall operation of the vehicle. So, to help you, here are some useful tips that will help you determine the failure of your BMW water pump.

When we talk about the water pump, it is the centerpiece of the engine’s cooling system. And if it stops working, the real problem begins!

5 Things That Help Determine BMW Water Pump Failure

The function of a water pump is to continuously circulate coolant throughout the entire cooling circuit. It thus regulates the flow of the coolant. A faulty water pump can cause your Bimmer’s engine to overheat.

Therefore, you should check your vehicle’s water pump as soon as you encounter these situations.

1. Squealing and Whirring Noises

The cause of this high-pitched squealing from your BMW could be a loose belt. This loose belt could mean a loose pulley or worn bearings in the water pump.

If the bearings in your BMW are completely worn out, it might be necessary to change your water pump to avoid a water pump failure.

2. Engine Overheating

Several reasons can cause your BMW’s engine to overheat. If you notice your car’s temperature gauge is in the red or the dashboard displays warnings, you should immediately consult an automotive expert.

A faulty water pump will cause your car to overheat, leading to other engine damage. You could also face costly repairs for blown head gaskets and cracked cylinder heads if your water pump fails.

3. Coolant Leaks

If you ever notice an imminent leak coming from the front part of your BMW, you should not ignore it.

It’s possible that the leak is a sign of many problems about to occur. If the fluid color is blue, it might be a coolant leak from the water pump.

4. Steam Emitted from the Radiator

Steam coming from your radiator is not a good sign at all. It can come from engine overheating caused by a malfunctioning water pump. The main role of the water pump is to circulate water to the radiator.

If the pump is not working correctly or if the hoses have many disconnections, the coolant will not pass from one point to another in the engine, making it vulnerable to overheating.

5. Rust on the Water Pump

Corrosion and rust on the water pump can also be an indication of your BMW’s water pump failure. This corrosion prevents the water pump from moving the coolant properly.

In this case, it is necessary to have your pump replaced to ensure the proper functioning of the vehicle. If you wish to learn more about the proper functioning of a water pump, discover some maintenance tips provided by automotive experts.

FAQ

1. Can I continue driving my BMW if I suspect a water pump problem?

It is not recommended to continue driving your BMW if you suspect a water pump problem.

Using a vehicle with a faulty water pump can lead to serious engine damage due to overheating. It is best to have the problem diagnosed and repaired promptly.

2. How can I avoid BMW water pump failure?

Regular maintenance is essential to avoid any water pump failure. Follow the maintenance intervals recommended by your BMW manufacturer and have the cooling system regularly inspected by a qualified technician.

Replacing the water pump and associated components at the recommended intervals can help ensure its longevity and prevent unexpected failures.

3. How much does it cost to replace a BMW water pump?

The cost of replacing a BMW water pump can vary depending on the model, year, and where the service is performed.

On average, you can expect to pay between $300 and $800 for parts and labor. Costs may be higher for luxury or high-performance BMW models.

4. Can I replace the water pump myself?

While some experienced mechanics may attempt to replace a water pump themselves, it is a complex job that often requires specialized tools and knowledge of the BMW cooling system.

For most drivers, it is advisable to have a professional mechanic or a BMW dealership perform the replacement to ensure it is done correctly.

5. How long does a typical BMW water pump last before needing replacement?

The lifespan of a BMW water pump can vary depending on factors such as driving conditions, maintenance, and the specific model of your BMW.

However, on average, a water pump can last between 60,000 and 100,000 miles (96,000 to 160,000 kilometers).

6. Are there specific BMW models known for having water pump problems?

While water pump problems can occur on various BMW models, some models, like the BMW 3 Series E90, are known for having more frequent water pump failures.

It is essential to note that regular maintenance and prompt attention to warning signs can mitigate these issues.

7. Can I use any type of coolant in my BMW, or does it require a specific coolant type?

BMWs generally require a specific type of coolant recommended by the manufacturer.

It is essential to use the appropriate coolant to ensure the proper functioning of the cooling system and avoid compatibility issues. Refer to your BMW owner’s manual for the recommended coolant type.

8. Is water pump failure covered by the BMW warranty?

Warranty coverage for water pump replacement can vary depending on the terms of your BMW’s warranty.

In some cases, water pump replacement may be covered by a new car warranty or an extended warranty if the issue occurs during the warranty period.

Consult your warranty documentation or check with your BMW dealership for specific coverage details.

Final Words

So, the elements mentioned above are responsible for your BMW’s water pump failure. Next time, if you encounter such situations, have them addressed immediately.

Remember that maintaining your BMW’s cooling system and promptly addressing any warning signs of water pump failure can help you avoid costly repairs and ensure your vehicle’s proper operation. If you suspect a problem, consult a qualified technician for proper diagnosis and repair.

A transmission is a complex mechanical component that operates through numerous intricate mechanisms. Maintaining and servicing these machines is delicate because an issue with one small component can damage the gearbox. One such problem is when the automatic transmission does not shift into third gear.

Signs that the automatic transmission is not shifting into 3rd gear

The problem can manifest in several ways that may be easy to recognize and track.

First, you might notice that the transmission shifts into first then second gear but does not shift into third. It feels like the gear slips into neutral when you push it into third.

Another example could be that the automatic transmission does not shift into third gear at all. It smoothly shifts between first and second and vice versa, but it simply stays in second when you try to push it up to third.

In this case, the catalytic converter can touch the side of the valve body area, overheating the transmission and creating metal shavings in the pan.

Automatic transmission not shifting into 3rd gear: What are the reasons?

A functional automatic transmission can upshift, downshift, and stop based on appropriate commands. But if it doesn’t, there must be an internal issue affecting performance. If you ignore the signs for too long, it can lead to potential transmission failure.

Let’s see what the reasons could be for the car not shifting gears from second to third.

Low fluid level

An overheating engine can be the cause of the gear locking up, and a low transmission fluid level can be the reason for the transmission overheating.

In fact, a low fluid level is the cause of a number of transmission-related problems. Therefore, the first step in solving a gear locking issue should be to check the transmission oil.

Check for leaks at the input and output shaft seals, fluid lines, pan gasket, and cooler if the level is low. If there is no leak, flush the used oil and refill the container.

Also, don’t forget to check the radiator coolant. The cooler inside the radiator can sometimes leak and contaminate the radiator coolant.

Dirty transmission fluid

Transmission oil is needed to lubricate the gears and internal moving parts. It functions like engine oil, except it is specifically designed for transmissions. As transmission fluid ages, dirt and debris begin to accumulate in it.

Degraded transmission fluid makes normal gear shifts much more difficult. It can also permanently damage the transmission if not drained and replaced promptly.

Consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual for how often to change the transmission oil. By following these instructions, you can ensure the transmission remains in optimal condition.

Shift solenoid problem

Inside the transmission, there are several shift solenoid coils responsible for automatically shifting gears when the TCM decides to do so. If one of them fails, it can lead to shifting problems with any gear, including 3rd gear. So, this is most likely a faulty shift solenoid.

Shift solenoid tubes are most commonly obtained by removing the valve body, which is done by removing the transmission oil pan from the car, but in some cases, you have to completely remove the transmission and take out the box.

Failing torque converter

The torque converter is responsible for engaging and disengaging the transmission from the engine. It consists of important components, such as the stator and turbine.

Any part of the torque converter can fail, which can lead to transmission slipping. It can also cause problems when shifting to a specific number.

Faulty PCM or TCM

If the PCM or TCM fails, transmission performance is degraded. These parts are responsible for the gearbox’s performance. In this way, it acts as the brain of the system.

When the PCM starts to fail, you may also notice other symptoms. You often see the Check Engine light and experience irregular gear shifts. The vehicle may even go into limp mode until the issue is resolved.

What to do when the automatic transmission does not shift into 3rd gear?

Here are some solutions for your reference on how to fix a car that is not shifting gears, particularly the third one.

Check the throttle cables

Changing the fluid solves many transmission problems, but if the issue of the automatic transmission not shifting into 3rd gear persists, the parts you need to check are the throttle cables.

A faulty cable with excessive play is likely to create problems with smooth shifting. It can also completely block the 3rd gear shift.

Inspect the PCM

A faulty PCM (Powertrain Control Module) will affect transmission performance, as it controls the gearbox mechanism in most car models. The PCM will have no influence if the speed sensor fails and causes a problem with the automatic transmission not shifting into 3rd gear.

In this case, the transmission will not shift gears properly. To fix this, you need to check the speedometer to see if it’s working. If not, replacing the VSS could be the solution.

Read the error code

If there is an error in the vehicle’s onboard computer, an error code is set. You can read these codes and learn more about the issues with the OBDII scanner.

Each vehicle uses different codes, even though some are common. For example, you might see code P0606 or P0113 if there is a problem with the PCM. Regardless of the code you see, you can research online and look up the problem for a quick solution.

Call an expert

Even if you are an experienced mechanic, you will still have to deal with some problems that are too unfamiliar to you. When you see a code or a problem and don’t know how to solve it with your basic knowledge, it is always ideal to call a professional.

In many cases, a repair done with the wrong approach can lead to more serious problems, sometimes impossible to fix. So be vigilant and remember to call an expert to perform the difficult task for you.

FAQ on automatic transmission not shifting into 3rd gear

1. Why is my automatic car not shifting gears?

Fluid is one of the reasons why an automatic transmission does not shift gears. It will affect the gears if it is not at the proper level or if the type of fluid used is inappropriate. Another important factor is the possibility of an ECM failure.

Here are the 2 main reasons why the automatic car is not shifting gears

2. Can an automatic transmission not shift into 2nd gear?

Yes, an automatic transmission can be stuck in 2nd gear. This problem can be a sign of low transmission fluid and a broken transmission control solenoid.

3. How do you reset the transmission control module?

Turn off your vehicle’s engine and wait 5 to 10 seconds. Start the engine and let it idle for a few seconds. Turn off the ignition and wait another 30 to 40 seconds. To reset your vehicle’s transmission control module, repeat these steps 2 to 3 times.

4. What are the signs of a bad shift solenoid?

The general role of a solenoid is to control the flow of transmission. Here are the symptoms of a faulty shift solenoid you need to watch out for.

• Gear shift delay during acceleration and deceleration.
• Your transmission is locked in neutral position.
• Gear shifting is difficult.
• Even when you press the brakes, the engine continues to run noisily.
• Your transmission fails to downshift and your engine is quite noisy.

5. Is a solenoid an easy fix?

A failing solenoid can paralyze your machine or manufacturing process, but fortunately, it is a part that can usually be repaired or replaced once you have identified the source of the problem.

6. How much do you pay for transmission shift solenoid replacement?

Replacing a single transmission solenoid can cost between $200 and $450. However, if the problem is so severe that you need to replace the entire set, the cost can reach between $300 and $800.

Conclusion

We have just reviewed all the basic aspects to understand why the automatic transmission does not shift into 3rd gear. I hope you find this article informative and understand exactly what to do when facing this problem.

Have you ever noticed your car’s engine starting to run erratically while idling? Understanding this issue is essential for your vehicle’s well-being and performance. So why does my RPM go up and down when parked? In this section, we will outline the main culprits and solutions for a car that idles roughly when parked.

Engine RPM Fluctuations: A Normal Engine Function

RPM, or Revolutions Per Minute, is a parameter that affects vehicle performance, closely related to power and torque. Simply put, RPM is the number of revolutions the car’s engine makes in 1 minute, measured in RPM and displayed on the engine tachometer in the digital instrument cluster (dashboard).

Engine RPM is inversely proportional to the vehicle’s gear ratio and power, reaching a maximum index of 5,000 to 7,000 RPM. For each vehicle gear ratio, the ideal engine RPM is different.

For gasoline engines, the engine speed when starting the vehicle reaches 50 RPM. When the car is not moving and you are not pressing the accelerator, the RPM is typically between 600 and 1000 RPM. At that point, the temperature drops to around 80 to 90 degrees, not too hot, sufficient to ensure stable and smooth engine operation. As for diesel engines, the average engine speed at startup is 90 RPM. This slight up-and-down movement helps maintain a steady idle and ensures efficient engine operation. Therefore, it is normal for the engine’s idle RPM to fluctuate slightly.

If your car hasn’t been started for a while, you will feel jerks upon restarting. This is when the car automatically increases the engine RPM to 1000. You don’t need to worry too much if you notice a sudden increase in engine RPM in this case, as it is a normal mechanism of the car’s engine.

Why Does My RPM Go Up and Down When Parked?

An unstable RPM while parked occurs when the RPM changes continuously and regularly, unable to maintain the necessary stability. The movement of RPM while parked is normal. If the RPM fluctuations are minor, but this number is excessive compared to the standard level, it’s time to investigate the reasons for this issue:

1. Dirty Throttle Body

The first thing to check is the throttle body. The main function of the throttle body is to control the air intake into the engine. The throttle body is equipped with a throttle plate that opens or closes in response to the pressure you apply to the accelerator pedal. The position of the throttle plate affects the amount of air entering the engine.

At idle, when you release the accelerator pedal, your throttle is almost closed. But if this part is clogged with sticky carbon deposits, the throttle may experience slight sticking during its opening or closing. This sticking can cause the throttle to remain more open than intended, disrupting the optimal air-fuel ratio and leading to undesirable idle RPM fluctuation.

2. The Idle Air Control Valve Itself

The IAC valve controls the amount of air that bypasses the throttle and is used to control the engine’s idle speed. What happens if this small device doesn’t work properly? If the IAC valve gets stuck in the open position, an excessive amount of air enters the engine, leading to a lean air-fuel mixture and variations in RPM while driving and parked.

If the IAC valve is dirty or damaged, it may operate irregularly, which can cause codes P0505, P0506, and P0507 to appear during inspection. These are secondary symptoms indicating a faulty IAC valve.

3. Vacuum Leak

Next, we have vacuum leaks. If air enters the engine without being measured by a MAF sensor, it’s called a “vacuum leak.” Your engine needs a precise balance between air and fuel to operate correctly. The ECU adjusts the amount of fuel based on the air entering the engine. If the ECU cannot determine the correct amount of fuel to inject, the unbalanced air-fuel ratio leads to inefficient combustion. In response, the engine may increase its RPM to try to compensate for the extra air, but it may overshoot the RPM and have to reduce it. And this can cause the RPM to surge.

4. Clogged Engine Parts

A clogged engine air filter can disrupt the airflow entering the engine. At idle, there is already less air entering the engine. If an air filter is clogged, it disrupts the delicate air-fuel balance, which can lead to engine RPM fluctuations. Similarly, a dirty throttle body (the valve that controls airflow) or clogged fuel injectors can also contribute to the problem by preventing a consistent fuel distribution.

5. Throttle Position Sensor

A throttle body sensor is used to measure the opening of the throttle and thus controls the amount of air that can flow into the engine’s intake manifold and sends signals to the engine PCM regarding the throttle position. If this signal is inconsistent, the engine will run unsteadily, and the engine RPM will fluctuate immediately. Often, the engine will idle but struggle to accelerate. This is because the computer is not telling the engine to inject as much fuel as needed while, at the same time, the airflow is increasing.

6. Damaged Ignition System

When the engine’s ignition system cannot distribute sparks evenly and sufficiently, it’s easy for the engine RPM to fluctuate abnormally.

This problem is often due to broken spark plugs or ignition wires, ignition coils, etc. Additionally, installing a damaged distributor also hinders the spark distribution process. Older cars are prone to this phenomenon.

Why Shouldn’t You Ignore the Fluctuation?

Not addressing a fluctuating engine RPM issue can lead to further problems down the line. It not only affects vehicle performance but can also damage the engine if not dealt with promptly.

• Loss of Engine Performance: Engine RPM fluctuations can reduce engine performance and increase fuel consumption, negatively impacting the powertrain’s lifespan.
• Affects Other Systems in Your Vehicle: Unpredictable increases and decreases in engine RPM can have negative effects on other car systems, including the suspension system, transmission system, tire system, braking system, and steering system.
• Increase Emissions: If the engine RPM is not functioning correctly, the exhaust system can cause black smoke, bad odors, and increase toxic emissions into the environment, affecting human health and the living environment.

In conclusion, slight engine RPM fluctuation while parked is normal. However, if the engine RPM becomes excessive, it is important to have your car checked by a mechanic to avoid further issues.

Hydrogen engines are a type of engine that has been increasingly circulating lately. They function similarly to gasoline engines in many ways. Both use a four-stroke design for intake, compression, ignition, and exhaust.

There are considerable differences in the operation of hydrogen and fuel engines. You can browse online to find the best maintenance tips to keep your car’s engine running smoothly.

How do hydrogen engines work?

The concept of hydrogen engines is not that new since the technology for generating power from hydrogen has existed for several years.

However, what distinguishes hydrogen engines from other car engines is that the car emits steam instead of gases. There are many hydrogen engine cars, including the Chevrolet Equinox, the BMW 7 Series (745h), and the Honda FCX.

1. The difference in what your car emits

The fundamentally different vehicle produces water as a byproduct of the combustion cycle. Furthermore, due to the heat generated, NOx emissions are minimal but lower than those produced by a gasoline vehicle.

Since hydrogen is different from gas, the air-fuel ratio, compression ratio, timing, and ignition are different from those of other cars.

You might be able to use an air-fuel ratio of 180:1 and a higher compression ratio like hydrogen with a higher octane rating.

2. How do hydrogen engines power the car?

There are only two ways to power a modern car. The majority of today’s cars use an internal combustion engine that burns petroleum-based fuel, generates heat, and pushes the piston to move the vehicle forward.

However, electric cars run entirely on batteries, which supply electricity to the electric motor that propels the vehicle. Additionally, these hybrid cars are equipped with an internal combustion engine and an electric motor to switch between them while driving.

3. How does the technology work?

Fuel cells, a cross between the internal combustion engine and the battery, produce electricity using fuel from the tank. In this case, the fuel is hydrogen gas, not gasoline or diesel.

However, the fuel cell does not burn hydrogen but chemically combines it with oxygen from the air to produce water.

Then, electricity is released, which powers an electric motor to move the vehicle forward. The only waste produced is water.

Hydrogen Engine, Diesel Engine, or Natural Gas Engine

Here is a table comparing diesel engines, natural gas engines, and hydrogen engines for your reference:

Aspect	Diesel Engine	Natural Gas Engine	Hydrogen Engine
Fuel Type	Diesel fuel (typically diesel oil)	Compressed Natural Gas (CNG) or LNG	Hydrogen gas
Combustion Process	Compression ignition	Spark ignition	Combustion with hydrogen and oxygen
Emissions	– Emit nitrogen oxides (NOx) and soot– May require exhaust gas aftertreatment	– Lower NOx and particulate emissions compared to diesel– Emits greenhouse gases (CO2)	– Produces only water vapor as exhaust– Considered a zero-emission vehicle
Fuel Consumption	Generally efficient	High thermal efficiency	High efficiency, similar to natural gas engines
Fuel Availability	Widely available worldwide	Access to natural gas infrastructure	Limited hydrogen refueling infrastructure
Fuel Cost	Moderate cost	Lower cost compared to diesel	Can be expensive due to limited supply
Refueling Infrastructure	Well-established	Expanding, but not as widespread as diesel	Limited availability in most regions
Energy Density	High energy density	Lower energy density than diesel	Low energy density
Engine Noise	Generally noisy	Quieter than diesel engines	Quiet operation
Cold Start Performance	May have issues in very cold climates	Performs well in cold conditions	Good cold start performance
Maintenance	Generally robust and durable	Less engine component wear	May require specialized maintenance
Environmental Impact	High greenhouse gas emissions	Reduced greenhouse gas emissions	Minimal environmental impact
Application	Common in trucks and heavy vehicles	Used in buses, fleet vehicles, and some industrial applications	Limited to niche and experimental applications
Future Trends	Evolving with emission reduction technologies	Growing popularity due to low emissions	Research and development for broader use
OEM Vehicle Availability	Widely available	Available in specific vehicle models	Limited availability, mainly experimental

Hydrogen Engine FAQ

1. Can hydrogen engines operate in medium and heavy-duty trucks and buses?

Yes, hydrogen engines can operate in medium and heavy-duty trucks and buses, and they are being studied as an alternative to traditional diesel engines in these applications.

Hydrogen fuel cell technology is particularly promising for larger vehicles due to its high efficiency and ability to offer longer ranges compared to battery electric vehicles.

2. Are specific modifications needed to the engine to run on hydrogen?

Yes, adapting an engine to run on hydrogen typically requires modifications to accommodate hydrogen’s different combustion characteristics and properties.

These modifications can include adjusting the air-fuel mixture, ignition timing, and fuel delivery system.

3. Are there different types of hydrogen engines?

Yes, there are different types of hydrogen engines, including hydrogen internal combustion engines (HICE) and hydrogen fuel cell engines.

HICE engines burn hydrogen directly, while hydrogen fuel cell engines use hydrogen to produce electricity to power electric motors.

4. What are the challenges and limitations of hydrogen engines?

Challenges include the limited availability of hydrogen refueling infrastructure, the cost of hydrogen production and storage, and the need for special handling and safety precautions due to hydrogen gas’s flammability.

5. Is hydrogen a renewable fuel source, and how is it produced?

Hydrogen can be produced using various methods, including electrolysis (using electricity to split water into hydrogen and oxygen), steam methane reforming (extracting hydrogen from natural gas), and other renewable sources.

The environmental impact of hydrogen depends on the production method used.

Watch this video from BeyondFuel to see how a hydrogen car works!

https://youtube.com/watch?v=SRt1KOP9a2g%3Ffeature%3Doembed

In Summary

Thus, hydrogen engines offer drivers an environmentally friendly way to operate their vehicles without any issues.

Have you ever glanced at your dashboard and noticed that a blue coolant light comes on when starting the car? Don’t panic!

It’s not necessarily a sign of imminent trouble for your vehicle. This blue light is likely your car’s coolant temperature warning indicator, and its initial illumination is actually a good thing.

Let’s dive into the world of automotive coolant and discover what this blue light means. We’ll see why it lights up when you start your engine and what it signifies for your car’s overall health.

Understanding the Cooling System

Your car’s engine generates intense heat during operation. To prevent overheating and potential damage, a vital system called the cooling system circulates a special liquid mixture throughout the engine.

This coolant absorbs heat and transports it from the engine block to the radiator, where it is released into the air.

The Role of the Coolant Light on the Car

The blue light on your dashboard acts as a coolant temperature gauge. When you start your engine, it is cold, and the coolant hasn’t had time to circulate and reach its optimal operating temperature.

That’s why the blue light comes on; it simply informs you that the engine coolant is currently below its ideal temperature.

Why is the Blue Coolant Light Coming On When Starting the Car Normal?

This initial blue light indicates a positive aspect. The vehicle’s computer system performs a health check, verifying that the coolant temperature sensor is functioning correctly and is ready to monitor the engine temperature throughout your journey.

This ensures the system can effectively manage the engine temperature once it reaches its optimal range.

When the Blue Coolant Light Comes On When Starting the Car is a Warning

Although the blue light at startup is normal, other situations warrant attention. Here are some issues you should notice because you risk ignoring them!

Persistent Blue Light

The blue coolant light serves as a guardian of your engine’s temperature.

While its initial illumination at startup is normal, a blue coolant light coming on when the car starts to remain on for an extended period (usually longer than a few minutes) after you begin driving indicates a potential problem: the engine is not reaching its ideal operating temperature.

Faulty Thermostat

The thermostat plays a crucial role in regulating the flow of coolant to the engine. Imagine it as a valve that opens and closes based on engine temperature.

When the engine is cold, the thermostat remains closed, limiting coolant flow and allowing the engine to warm up faster.

When the engine reaches its optimal temperature, the thermostat gradually opens, allowing the hot coolant to circulate and regulate the engine temperature.

However, if the thermostat malfunctions and remains stuck in the open position, it acts like a faulty guardian. Coolant constantly circulates through the engine, regardless of its temperature.

The constant circulation of cold coolant prevents the engine from reaching its ideal operating temperature range, triggering the persistent illumination of the blue light.

Coolant Level

The coolant absorbs heat and transports it to the radiator to be dissipated. But like any superhero, coolant must be present in sufficient quantity to be effective.

When the coolant level in the system falls below the recommended level due to leaks or a lack of regular maintenance, the remaining coolant faces a more difficult task. It is simply insufficient to effectively absorb and transfer all the heat generated by the engine.

This issue can lead to the engine not reaching its optimal operating temperature and the blue coolant light coming on when the car starts as a warning sign.

Faulty Coolant Circulation System

Consider the coolant circulation system as a network of highways inside your car. The water pump acts as a powerful pump, pushing coolant through this network of pipes and hoses.

The radiator functions as a heat exchanger, where the hot coolant releases its captured heat into the air.

If a component in this system fails, it can disrupt the regular circulation of coolant. A faulty water pump may not be powerful enough to circulate coolant effectively.

A clogged radiator can hinder heat release, causing the coolant to remain hot. Clogged hoses can restrict coolant flow to certain areas of the engine.

Any of these problems can prevent the engine from reaching its optimal operating temperature, causing the blue light to stay on as a warning.

Light Color Change or Flashing

The blue coolant light usually serves as a useful indicator for engine temperature. However, some car models adopt a more dramatic approach.

On these vehicles, the red coolant light comes on when starting the vehicle or the blue light may change color or start flashing when the coolant temperature reaches excessively high levels. This is an important warning indicating that your engine is overheating.

Engine Overheating

Imagine your car’s engine as that of an athlete. Just like an athlete, the engine generates a lot of heat during operation. The cooling system acts as a cooling mechanism, constantly circulating coolant to absorb this heat and transfer it away from the engine.

However, if the engine overheating warning light comes on, it means the cooling process is failing. The coolant temperature has reached a dangerously high level, and the engine is at risk of serious damage.

Engine overheating is a serious threat because extreme heat can warp metal components, causing internal friction and reducing efficiency.

In the worst case, pistons can seize or the cylinder head gasket can blow, leading to catastrophic engine damage and costly repairs.

If you see a flashing red coolant light, prioritize safety by stopping immediately and turning off the engine.

• Do not ignore the red or blue coolant light coming on when starting the car. Find a safe place to pull over as soon as possible and turn off the engine.
• Then, turn off all electrical accessories. This will help minimize the load on the engine and prevent additional heat production.
• Do not attempt to open the radiator cap when the engine is hot. The cooling system is under pressure, and opening a hot radiator can cause burns.
• Wait for the engine to cool down completely (ideally for at least 30 minutes) before attempting to check the coolant level.
• Once the engine has cooled, you can check the coolant level. If the level is low, adding coolant may be a temporary solution to get you to a mechanic.

The overheating problem requires professional intervention. A qualified mechanic can diagnose the underlying cause of the overheating, whether it’s a faulty thermostat, a failing water pump, a clogged radiator, or another issue.

Impact of Weather Conditions

Extremely cold weather can lead to the blue light staying on longer after startup. This is because the engine takes longer to reach its operating temperature under such conditions.

However, if the light remains on for an unreasonable duration even in cold weather, it’s best to consult a mechanic for a check-up.

Driving Habits and the Blue Light

Short trips often don’t allow the engine to fully reach its optimal temperature. If your driving habits consist mainly of short trips, you might see the blue light come on more frequently.

Driving shouldn’t be a major concern unless the blue coolant light comes on when starting the car and stays on during long journeys.

However, you should always be cautious and pay attention to your driving habits when on the road to avoid any unforeseen events.

FAQ

Why does the blue coolant light stay on longer in winter?

In cold weather, the engine takes longer to reach its optimal operating temperature. The blue coolant light may stay on longer during the winter months because the coolant is colder and takes more time to warm up.

Can driving with the blue coolant light on damage my engine?

Driving with the blue coolant light on is generally safe, as it simply means the engine is still warming up. However, driving aggressively or at high speeds before the engine is warm can increase wear and tear. It’s best to drive gently until the light goes out.

Does the blue coolant light affect my fuel efficiency?

Yes, driving with a cold engine can slightly reduce fuel efficiency because the engine runs richer (using more fuel) to warm up. Once the engine reaches its operating temperature and the blue light goes out, fuel efficiency should improve.

Why does the blue coolant light sometimes come on briefly even when the engine is warm?

This can happen if the engine experiences a sudden temperature drop, for example after driving through water or if the coolant level is low. It could also indicate a sensor problem, requiring a check by a mechanic.

Is it normal for the blue coolant light to come on after the car has been parked for a short time?

This can be normal. If the car is parked and the engine cools down, especially in cold weather, the blue coolant light may come on when you restart the car until it warms up again.

Will the blue coolant light come on if my thermostat is stuck open?

If the thermostat remains stuck in the open position, the engine may not effectively reach its optimal operating temperature, causing the blue coolant light to stay on longer or come on intermittently.

Can flushing the cooling system affect the blue coolant light?

After a cooling system flush, if the coolant level is not properly filled or if there are air bubbles in the system, the blue coolant light may behave unusually. Ensure the system is properly bled and filled after a flush to avoid this issue.

Watch this video from Nate Wade Subaru to find out why the blue light comes on on your dashboard!

https://youtube.com/watch?v=MHELmqQVusA%3Ffeature%3Doembed

Final Words

The blue coolant light is a valuable tool for monitoring your car’s engine temperature. While its initial appearance at startup is a normal phenomenon, pay close attention to how long it stays on and if it turns red.

By understanding this light and its function, you can ensure your engine operates at its optimal temperature, maximizing performance and avoiding overheating issues.

If you notice an abnormal blue coolant light coming on when starting the car, don’t hesitate to consult a qualified mechanic for a more in-depth diagnosis and repair to keep your car running properly.

Timing chains and timing belts – Car owners often confuse these two engine parts. Both function to coordinate the rotation of the camshaft and crankshaft to control the engine’s valves and timing. However, there are crucial differences that make one superior to the other. So let’s explore the actual difference between the timing chain and the timing belt and find out which one is better.

Complete Comparison – Timing Chain vs. Timing Belt

It is difficult to answer this question because both the timing chain and the timing belt have the same function in the vehicle. Although they have the same function, each has strengths and weaknesses that make them different. So let’s start by drawing the complete difference to better understand these two engine parts.

1. Timing Belt

One of the key innovations of the 1960s was the timing belt. Given the complexity of a vehicle’s engine and the increasing importance of the automobile in everyone’s life, this belt was invented. It is a component of internal combustion engines that coordinates the rotation between the camshaft and the crankshaft. This belt is assembled near hydraulic timing tensioners to maintain balanced movement throughout the engine cycle and keep the timing on track.

A timing belt is made from rubber and contains fiberglass for more durability. Therefore, it typically wears out over time. When this belt rotates, it does not produce much noise and is quite quiet. Most car manufacturers advise changing these timing belts after 60,000 miles.

2. Timing Chain

In contrast, a timing chain is a metal chain that connects the crankshaft and the camshaft to make them rotate in sync. One of the main advantages of using a timing chain over a belt is its long lifespan. Fortunately, these chains do not need to be replaced after a certain mileage. They can last the entire life of your car’s engine. Furthermore, they contain tensioners that contribute to their proper functioning and prevent any loosening.

Timing chains depend heavily on the engine’s oil pressure. If the oil pressure is low or inconsistent, it can affect the chain’s operation and impact the engine timing. So you can read some car maintenance tips to know how to fix these chains immediately. Unlike timing belts, timing chains are noisier, heavier, and more dangerous when they break.

3. Why is a Timing Belt More Preferred Than a Chain?

There are two main reasons for this underlying fact.

First, the production cost of a timing belt is much lower than that of a timing chain. Therefore, the marketability of a belt-driven car is much higher than that of a chain-driven car due to the huge price differences. This trend is particularly popular in the cheap car market, where prices matter the most and the majority of buyers have a negligible understanding of engineering and the pros and cons of a belt versus a chain. Generally, customers in this niche of the car market care little about what they really want from their engine compared to the main concern of their wallet. Therefore, manufacturing cars with belts is much more lucrative than those with chains.

Second, engines equipped with a timing belt are less noisy. Of course, everyone likes a quiet car, but there is also a misconception that low noise equates to a car’s quality and new condition. In the long term, a timing belt does not meet expectations, as it typically needs to be replaced every 60,000 to 100,000 miles and every five to seven years. Although a belt is inexpensive to manufacture, its replacement is costly due to the complex technical process. Furthermore, the water pump and tensioners must also be replaced along with the belt, requiring more parts and more labor.

Finally, other minor reasons can be:

• Higher timing accuracy, leading to superior performance and lower gas emissions
• Reduced friction and lubrication needs
• Rare belt failures cause much less damage to cars than chain failures

Conclusion

Finally, we have established the main differences between the timing chain and the timing belt. Both have their strengths and weaknesses. If you want to properly maintain your vehicle, a timing belt is a better option. But for those who do not care about their car’s maintenance, they can probably stick with the timing chain.

The reasons why the timing belt is more popular in cars are the low production cost and low operating noise.

Sometimes, car owners are unaware that someone has placed a GPS tracker to monitor their movements. This is why many want to know how to detect a GPS tracking device on a car and remove it.

Nowadays, it’s essential to have a pre-installed GPS in the vehicle. Many vehicles come equipped with a GPS to help the driver know their exact location. These devices are popular among taxi drivers as well as individual car owners.

How to Detect a GPS Tracking Device on a Car? Read Here

If you suspect that a GPS inside your vehicle has been equipped with a tracking device without your consent, follow the steps below to check if your movements are being monitored.

First, we need to understand what a GPS tracker looks like to the average person.

What is a GPS Tracker?

A GPS tracker comes in various shapes and sizes, some being more discreet than others. These are divided into two main categories: real-time GPS trackers and GPS data loggers.

On one hand, real-time GPS tracks the vehicle’s position through real-time data transmission via cell towers. On the other hand, a GPS data logger stores location data in internal memory and is only accessible in person.

Below are the guidelines to help you confirm if a GPS is present on your car and how to get rid of it.

1. Check the Exterior of the Car

Car bumpers are the best place to hide a GPS tracker. Experts recommend looking behind your car’s bumper using a mirror with an extendable handle.

You should check the car’s undercarriage. Also, don’t forget to check the wheel well. This is the first step to take when wondering how to detect a GPS tracking device on a car and remove it.

2. Inspect the Interior

A GPS tracker that is easier to find is one plugged into either the OBD data port behind the dashboard or the 12V cigarette lighter socket.

If you don’t see a GPS tracker in the indicated location, check other parts of the interior, including the dashboard, storage compartments, under the seats, and the spare tire. This is one of the essential maintenance tips for taking care of your vehicle’s security.

Since the plastic interior trim of current car models is easy to remove, it provides enough space to hide something. This is where you might find a hidden GPS tracker.

FAQ

1. How can I physically check if my vehicle is equipped with a GPS tracking device?

You can perform a physical inspection by carefully examining the interior and exterior of your vehicle. Look for unusual or misplaced objects, wires, or magnetic attachments. Also consider using a professional bug detector.

2. Can I use a smartphone app to detect GPS tracking devices on my car?

There are smartphone apps that claim to detect GPS tracking devices, but their effectiveness may vary. It is generally recommended to use dedicated bug detectors or seek professional help for a more reliable assessment.

3. What should I do if I find a GPS tracking device on my car?

If you find a GPS tracking device on your car and you did not authorize its installation, it is essential to follow these steps:

• Do not remove the device yourself, as this may be illegal in some jurisdictions.
• Document its location and take photos as evidence.
• Contact law enforcement to report the device.
• Seek legal advice if necessary to address any privacy concerns.

4. Are there legal restrictions regarding the use of GPS tracking devices on vehicles?

The legality of using GPS tracking devices on vehicles varies by jurisdiction. In many countries, it is legal to use such devices on your own vehicle or with proper consent. However, using them on someone else’s vehicle without authorization may be illegal and constitute a violation of privacy laws.

5. How can I protect my car from unauthorized GPS tracking?

To protect your car from unauthorized tracking, you can:

• Regularly inspect your vehicle for any signs of tracking devices.
• Use GPS signal jammers or blockers (where legal) to disrupt tracking signals.
• Install a security system to prevent tampering.
• Be cautious about who has access to your car and its keys.

6. Is it possible to jam or block GPS tracking signals?

Yes, it is possible to disrupt GPS tracking signals using signal jammers or blockers. However, the use of such devices may be subject to legal restrictions and should be used responsibly and within the bounds of the law.

In Summary

So, when wondering how to detect a GPS tracking device on a car, following these guidelines will ensure your vehicle’s security.

This will not only preserve your car’s safety but also its privacy. Therefore, keep these tips in mind to avoid any infringement on your privacy.

Although practically everyone owns a car, not everyone necessarily knows about their car’s engine. However, you should know if your car’s engine temperature is at the right level. This will help you know if the engine, the heart of your car, is working well. And it’s important to know whether it’s a manual or automatic car.

However, not all car temperature gauges are designed to simply indicate the car’s temperature as HOT, COLD, or SAFE. There are also digital gauges, which may only indicate relatively high or low temperatures.

How to Read a Car’s Engine Temperature

It is well known that an overheating engine can be dangerous. But you may not know how to measure overheating and what to do once you know it’s overheating. This requires not only knowing how to read your gauge and recognizing the symptoms of car overheating, but also knowing how to react. Take note of these maintenance tips.

Analog Gauges

As you may have noticed, most gauges indicate temperature through a panel without numbers. They simply have C and H, or blue and red, and a point in between that indicates normal temperature. The interpretation is simple. Here’s what you need to interpret:

Normal – Everything is fine

Cold – Everything is fine. Old cars need a bit of warming up in winter. Modern cars do very well. No need for warming up. The computer provides fuel even if the engine is cold to start it.

Hot – Yes, this is worrying and you need to react.

Digital Gauges

These thermometers simply display a value in degrees Fahrenheit. If you’re a gadget enthusiast, you’ll check the meaning of temperatures on a digital thermometer. But here’s a simple tip:

Below 240° F – Everything is fine

Above 240° F – The engine is overheating. The gauge triggers a flashing light or alarm, and you need to take control of the situation.

Overheating is one of the most common engine problems that you should not ignore.

What Temperature Does a Car Engine Reach?

First, we need to understand that the engine runs well when it operates at high frequency, but the temperature is always maintained according to the manufacturer’s regulations. The normal temperature of a car engine is between 90 and 105 degrees Celsius (approximately 195 to 220 degrees Fahrenheit) (for gasoline engines, the engine temperature is regulated around 80 degrees Celsius, for diesel engines, it’s around 90 degrees). Modern car powertrains operate at a temperature of 100°-105°. In the engine cylinder, when the mixture burns, the combustion chamber heats up to 2500 degrees, and the coolant’s task is to maintain an optimal temperature within the normal range. Any error with this component will result in a higher than normal temperature, causing an overheating problem.

What to Avoid When the Car’s Engine Temperature Rises

1. Do not continue driving, but do not brake too hard either. If the engine is overheating, simply slow down, pull the car to the side, and turn off the engine.
2. Do not try to restart the engine after a few minutes thinking it has cooled down. Most of the time, engines overheat due to lack of coolant. So you need to fix the problem first.
3. Do not rush to open the hood immediately. You risk burning your hands. Open it carefully, after a few minutes have passed.
4. Never immediately remove the radiator cap or water circuit cap. The risk of explosion increases as it is under high pressure.
5. If the radiator needs coolant, do not rush to fill it with antifreeze. Make sure there are no leaks or bursts in the cooling system. The leak or burst could actually be the cause of the symptoms of car overheating.
6. Start the engine a few minutes after filling the coolant. If it heats up again, do not pretend to be an expert. If you cannot diagnose the problem or the engine continues to overheat, you should call a professional.

Remember that a car engine overheating can be a real problem. Diagnose and treat it in time.

While driving on the highway, your car’s dashboard lights up and displays an unusual warning message: “Battery Saver Active.” Although this alert is often a source of confusion and concern, it’s usually a simple fix.

But what exactly does this message mean, what causes it, and what should you do immediately after seeing this warning appear?

What is “Battery Saver”?

“Battery Saver” mode is a state where the computer shuts down peripheral electrical systems to prioritize the power you need to keep driving. This happens when the battery or alternator has a problem and the supplied voltage is low.

When you’re driving on the road, your alternator is your vehicle’s primary power source. If your alternator cannot meet the vehicle’s electrical demand, you risk seeing a “Battery Saver Active” warning appear on your GM vehicle. GM brands include Buick, Chevrolet, Cadillac, and GMC.

This warning light is similar to the battery warning light found on most vehicles. The battery warning light is more generic and is not specific to General Motors.

Meaning of “Battery Saver Active”

The “Battery Saver Active” warning means the charging system is unable to properly charge the battery or the electrical consumption exceeds the alternator’s capacity. In both cases, Battery Saver mode will activate to prioritize the vehicle’s electrical needs.

In other words, Battery Saver mode allows you to keep driving for as long as possible.

If you see a “Battery Saver Active” warning, you should get to a repair shop as soon as possible. You can even test the battery voltage at an auto parts store if you cannot get to a shop quickly enough.

Causes of the Battery Saver Active Light

The battery saver system is caused by an electrical problem. The main cause is often the battery, the alternator, or a connection between the two.

1) Corroded Battery Terminals

Corroded battery terminals are often the cause of charging problems. Check the battery cables where they attach to the battery. If you notice a brown, white, or green powder, you have corrosion or battery acid on the battery terminals.

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Cleaning this corrosion will give you a better connection to the battery and allow the charging system to work more efficiently. In extreme cases, corrosion can prevent you from starting the vehicle.

2) Loose Battery Cables

Just like corroded battery terminals, if your battery cables are loose, you will have a poor connection to the battery. This will impact the alternator’s charging ability, slowing down the process. It can also make starting the vehicle difficult.

3) Faulty Battery

Lead-acid batteries age over time and with use. If you think your battery is faulty, you can test it with a multimeter. In extreme cases, a faulty battery will prevent you from cranking the vehicle to start it. Once your battery is completely dead, it may never regain its full power.

Sometimes, a good car battery can seem faulty due to a parasitic draw. A parasitic draw is a constant drain on the battery when the vehicle should be off.

4) Bad Ground

A bad ground can behave the same way as a faulty battery or alternator. The negative terminal on most vehicles is a ground, but you will also have ground cables throughout the engine bay for various engine components.

If there is a grounding issue, you might end up with an open circuit or a situation where a system works intermittently. Check for loose or missing ground connections when troubleshooting the “Battery Saver Active” warning light.

5) Faulty Alternator

Alternators (also called generators) allow your vehicle to run while you’re driving and also charge your battery while the vehicle is moving. The alternator has a pulley that attaches to the serpentine belt. When this pulley spins, it generates electricity.

Faulty alternators are less common than faulty batteries and battery connection problems, but alternators do sometimes have issues. If you want to test a faulty alternator, consider using a multimeter to perform a voltage drop test.

6) Aftermarket Audio System

While this is a less common cause of electrical problems, it’s still worth mentioning. If you’ve added a high-power aftermarket audio system to your vehicle without upgrading your alternator, you might find yourself in a situation where your amplifier is drawing more power than the alternator can supply.

When upgrading your audio system, it’s wise to check the specifications of your amp and alternator to ensure they are compatible. Consider upgrading to a higher-output alternator if you have a high-power amp or a large subwoofer.

Can I Drive with the Battery Saver Light On?

While it is possible to drive for a short time with this light on, you should not drive any longer than necessary.

Electricity from the battery or alternator is needed to power the ignition coils, which send an electrical arc across the spark plugs. If you run out of electricity, your car will stop running and you’ll be stranded.

Although the automotive industry has made drastic mechanical and technological progress throughout history, there is one element that all vehicles equipped with internal combustion engines have in common: the ignition system.

If you take your precious vehicle seriously, it is helpful to know how the different types of ignition systems work, as well as their advantages and disadvantages, in order to choose the right spark plug that works most efficiently given the performance requirements of the ignition system.

Although almost all major components of a car have undergone improvements over the years, the basic principles of the ignition system have not changed for nearly a century.

In essence, it takes the electrical voltage from the battery, converts it into a much higher voltage, and then transfers this electrical current to the engine’s combustion chamber, igniting the compressed mixture of fuel and air to create combustion. This combustion generates the energy needed to operate your car.

That said, the method by which the spark is created and distributed has greatly improved thanks to technological advances. Currently, there are four types of ignition systems used in most cars and trucks, in order of invention: conventional breaker point (mechanical) ignitions, high-energy (electronic) ignitions, distributorless (waste spark) ignitions, and coil-on-plug ignitions.

Breaker point (mechanical) and high-energy (electronic) ignitions are distributor-based ignitions. Another way to classify them is therefore into three broader types of ignition systems: distributor-based, distributorless, and coil-on-plug systems.

In this comprehensive guide, we will look at how each system works, as well as the resulting advantages and disadvantages, based on what it means for your engine’s performance and maintenance requirements.

What is the purpose of the ignition system?

When you put your key in your vehicle’s ignition and turn it, your engine starts and continues to run. Have you ever wondered what the complete process is behind such a simple action?

Let’s get back to basics: your engine produces energy to power your car by creating combustion, or an explosion, inside its combustion chamber, hence the name “internal combustion engine”. To generate such combustion, the ignition system plays a major role: your spark plugs provide the electrical spark that ignites the air-fuel mixture that powers the combustion chamber.

For the ignition system to function correctly, it must be able to perform two tasks efficiently and accurately at the same time.

Create a spark strong and hot enough

The first task is to create a powerful spark that can jump the gap between the spark plugs. In other words, the ignition system must increase the voltage from the battery’s 12 volts to at least 20,000 volts, which is necessary to ignite the compressed air and fuel mixture in the combustion chamber to create an energy-generating explosion.

To achieve such a voltage surge, the ignition systems of all cars, except diesel models, use an ignition coil composed of two coils of wire wound around an iron core, called the primary winding and secondary winding. The ignition coil acts as an electrical power transformer.

The role of the ignition coil is to create an electromagnet by passing the 12 volts supplied by the battery through the primary winding. When the vehicle’s ignition system trigger switch cuts power to the ignition coil, the magnetic field collapses. In doing so, the secondary winding captures the collapsing magnetic field from the primary winding and converts it into 15,000 to 25,000 volts.

It then supplies this voltage to the spark plug, thus creating combustion in the engine’s combustion chamber, thereby generating the energy needed to start and run your vehicle’s engine. For the necessary spark to occur, the converted voltage delivered to the spark plug must be between 20,000 and 50,000 volts.

Ignite the spark at the right time

Simultaneously, the ignition system also has the essential role of ensuring that the spark fires at the right time during the compression stroke to maximize the power generated by the ignited air-fuel mixture. In other words, sufficient voltage must be delivered to the right cylinder at the right time, and this operation must be performed frequently.

All components work with precision and harmony for your engine to achieve optimal performance. Even the smallest timing error in a single part will lead to engine performance problems and, if prolonged, can even cause permanent damage.

The ignition system must provide sufficient spark to the correct cylinder. To ensure precise ignition timing, engineers have used several methods, which have evolved over the years.

Early ignition systems used fully mechanical distributors to control ignition timing, followed by hybrid distributors equipped with semiconductor switches and the Engine Control Module (ECM), essentially a type of simple process computer, to distribute electrical power to each cylinder.

To counter the disadvantages of these early distributors, 100% electronic ignition systems emerged, the first of which was a distributorless ignition system, where the distributor was eliminated.

The latest invention, coil-on-plug ignition systems, significantly improved ignition timing by using an improved ignition coil that produces much higher power and generates a much hotter spark.

What is the purpose of each component of the ignition system

Battery

When the engine runs, it also operates the alternator which generates electricity to recharge the battery. Your car’s battery stores electricity and releases it as direct current.

The battery provides twelve volts of direct current. However, to obtain a spark enabling combustion, the spark plug needs to be supplied with a voltage between 20,000 and 50,000 volts. To allow for such a significant voltage increase, the ignition coil is required.

Ignition Coil

The ignition coil acts as an electrical power transformer. Early mechanical ignition systems rely on a coil to convert the battery’s low voltage into the high voltage required by the spark plugs.

The electrical transformation of the ignition coil works on a principle called magnetic induction. In a traditional transformer, the primary coil receives energy, i.e., direct current from the batteries. However, this charge through the primary coil is periodically interrupted. This interruption is caused by the distributor in early distributor-based ignition systems, and by a computer for more precise timing in later ignition systems. The role of the distributor will be discussed later.

The voltage in the primary coil produces a magnetic field. The periodic disruption of the current received by the primary coil causes the constant collapse of the magnetic field produced by the primary coil. Such significant movements of the primary coil’s magnetic field cause the secondary coil to create a burst of high-voltage energy at once.

The voltage generated by the secondary coil depends on the ratio between the number of turns in the primary coil and the number of turns in the secondary coil. If the secondary coil has twice as many turns as the primary coil, the output voltage will be twice the input voltage.

Thus, to increase the voltage from 12 volts to the at least 20,000 volts that spark plugs need, in a car’s ignition coil, the secondary coil has tens of thousands of times more turns than the primary coil.

Distributor

Here is how the distributor creates the aforementioned periodic discrete charges supplied to the primary ignition coil. The distributor contains a “breaker point” that grounds the primary coil circuit. This point is connected to ground by a lever. The lever is moved by a cam connected to the distributor shaft. This opens the primary coil circuit and causes the collapse that triggers the high-voltage bursts in the secondary coil.

Furthermore, while the battery and ignition coil provide the power, the distributor does significant work, precisely determining where and when this power goes to each spark plug.

The distributor contains many parts, the most important of which are a rotor that spins at engine speed and several “terminals” mounted on the distributor cap. The electrical current from the ignition coil is supplied to the rotor.

The rotor spins, and when the tip of the rotor approaches one of the terminals, an electrical arc jumps to that terminal. From there, the energy flows along a spark plug wire to the associated spark plug, thus timing the firing of each plug.

Spark Plugs and Their Wires

Spark plug wires, also called ignition wires, are insulated wires that carry energy to the spark plugs so that they can finally create the spark that causes combustion.

The spark plug consists of an insulated ceramic body with a central conductive metal core in the center. There is a gap between this central metal core and the tip of the electrode that connects to the metal base of the spark plug. Electricity arcs or jumps across this gap, causing the spark.

The importance of the ignition system

The key takeaway is that if the ignition system does not function properly and accurately, your car may struggle to start or not run at all.

Worn spark plugs and faulty ignition system components will affect your engine’s performance, creating a wide range of engine problems including hard starting, misfires, lack of power, poor fuel consumption, and even permanent damage if the issues are not resolved in time. Also note that these engine problems caused by faulty ignition systems can damage other critical components of your vehicle.

Regular maintenance of your ignition system is therefore essential to ensure optimal engine performance and thus smooth and safe driving. In this case, what is a sufficient frequency? At least once a year, you should perform a visual inspection of your ignition system components to check for signs of wear or failure, and then replace them immediately if necessary.

Regarding your spark plugs, be sure to inspect and replace them at the interval recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer. Again, given the importance of the ignition system, preventive maintenance is crucial to maximize your engine’s performance and lifespan.

Understanding the 4 Types of Ignition Systems

1 Distributor-Based Breaker Point Ignition (Mechanical)

History

The oldest ignition system is the conventional breaker point ignition system, sometimes called the mechanical ignition system. It has been used since the early days of the automotive industry, particularly through the 1970s.

It is one of the two types of ignition systems that use a distributor, called distributor-based systems. Unlike the three other types of ignition systems described later, the breaker point ignition system is fully mechanical, hence its second name.

Let’s see how they work, and then, based on that, we will look at the resulting advantages and disadvantages for this type of ignition system. We will go into detail in this section, as the mechanical breaker system is the first invention and thus the basis for all subsequent models. You need to understand the operation of this system well to see the advantages and disadvantages of the later improved systems.

A Brief Description of Distributor Ignition

The first two types of ignition systems, the breaker point system and the electronic system, are both distributor-based, unlike the other two distributorless systems. So, let’s learn the basics of how a distributor-based system works.

A distributor is an enclosed rotating shaft with mechanically timed ignition. The main function of the distributor is to route the secondary, or high-tension, current from the ignition coil to the spark plugs in the correct firing order and for the appropriate duration.

In the case of a fully mechanical distributor, the distributor is connected to the camshaft by gears and driven by the camshaft. Inside, the multi-lobe cam on the distributor shaft moves other parts of the distributor, essentially acting as a mechanical switch that starts and stops the power flow to the ignition coil.

Once the coil generates sufficient voltage, it moves to the top of the coil and into the top of the distributor cap. There, a rotating disc attached to the distributor shaft distributes the electrical current to each of the spark plug wires in order. The current travels along the spark plug wires to the spark plugs and causes ignition.

How Breaker Point Ignition Works

A distributor-based breaker point ignition system has two electrical circuits, the primary and secondary circuits.

An ignition coil consists of two coils of wire wound around an iron core, called the primary winding, or primary coil, and secondary winding, or secondary coil.

The primary circuit consists of the primary coil, the “breaker points”, and the vehicle’s batteries. It operates only on the battery’s low current and is controlled by the breaker points and the ignition switch.

Meanwhile, the secondary circuit consists of the secondary windings of the coil, the high-tension coil wire on external coil distributors, the spark plugs, the spark plug wires, the distributor rotor, and the distributor cap.

When the ignition key is turned on, the primary coil receives low-tension direct current from the batteries, which passes through the distributor’s breaker points and returns to the battery. This current flow forms a magnetic field around the ignition coil.

Now here is how the “breaker point” comes into play.

As mentioned above, the distributor contains a “breaker point” that grounds the primary coil circuit. This breaker point is connected to ground by a lever, which is moved by a cam connected to the distributor shaft.

Through the distributor rotor spinning at engine speed, when the engine turns, the cam on the distributor shaft rotates until the high point of the cam causes the breaker point tips to separate. Instantly, this sudden separation stops the flow of current through the primary coil.

This causes the magnetic field produced by the primary coil around the coil to collapse. The capacitor absorbs the energy and prevents electrical arcing from forming between the breaker points at each separation. In other words, the capacitor therefore plays a role in the rapid collapse of the magnetic field, necessary to create a high voltage surge in the secondary coil.

Such sudden and continuous changes in the primary coil’s magnetic field cut across the secondary coil, creating a voltage surge high enough to bridge the gaps between the rotor and the distributor terminals, as well as the gaps between the spark plug electrodes.

Assuming the entire system is properly timed, the spark reaches the air-fuel mixture in the designated cylinder at the precise moment, and