An alternator plays a very important role in a vehicle’s electrical power system. A faulty alternator can cause many serious problems for your car in several ways. So to help you avoid these situations, here is a list of several symptoms of a bad alternator to know. Stay tuned!

What is the purpose of an alternator?

First, let’s learn some basics about the effect of an alternator on your car. Whenever you start your engine, the alternator works to charge the battery and power the car’s electrical systems. There is a wide range of electrical systems and devices in your car, beyond the MP3 player, stereo system, air conditioning, and lights. New cars are equipped with computers and sensors that all require electricity to function. From GPS systems to lights, the alternator powers all of these. If the alternator is faulty, many electrical devices in your car will stop working.

When this happens, it’s time for you to replace the alternator with a new one. The following symptoms will give you an idea of what’s wrong, check them now:

Symptoms of a Bad Alternator

1. Dimming Lights

Normally, a failing alternator causes flickering or dim lights. This is more obvious when you drive your car at night, but also noticeable in the dome light and dashboard lights. If the lights brighten as the RPM increases, it certainly means your alternator is faulty or dead.

2. Strange Noises

The next on the list of bad alternator symptoms concerns strange noises. After running long enough, the serpentine belt could have stretched and not effectively spin the alternator pulley, leading to a lack of charging. Generally, this leads to a strange sound. On the other hand, the internal bearings can also wear out, producing a grinding or growling noise.

3. Engine Stops Running

If your engine suddenly stops running while you’re on the road, it will surely be one of the bad alternator symptoms. Fuel injection requires an appropriate amount of electricity to function, without which the engine will stop running quickly.

4. Check Engine Light

One of the other signs of a faulty alternator appears on the service engine light. This sign varies by brand and model, but basically, when the alternator starts to fail, it may illuminate an “ALT,” a battery icon indicator, or a “Check Engine” light.

5. Electrical Problems

Of course, when the alternator is about to fail, many electrical devices such as MP3 players, the stereo system, power windows, or seats may take time to operate. If there isn’t enough power, the devices sometimes won’t work effectively or will suddenly stop working, like the MP3 player turning off by itself.

6. Dead Battery

Yes, a battery can also fail for other reasons. But a dead alternator is usually the cause of a dead battery because it provides no energy to recharge it. Car batteries don’t hold too much energy in the long term. They provide enough electrical power to start the starter and circulate energy to get the whole job spinning.

How to Diagnose a Failing Alternator?

Preparation:

• Code reader
• Safety glasses
• Multimeter

When your car shows some of the above symptoms, it’s time to diagnose the alternator. Here are some steps to look for:

1. If the “Check Engine” light comes on, connect a code reader to the diagnostic port. If it displays code P0562, it means your alternator is about to die. (Note: this code is different depending on the car’s make, model, and year). Have it checked before it dies.

2. If you think your car has a faulty alternator but there is no clear sign, open the hood and check the condition of the belt. If the belt is slightly burned and glazed, it means it’s slipping. When the belt is too loose, instead of rolling on the pulleys, the belt slips on them. The metal-rubber friction heats the belt and wears it out quickly. In this case, you just need to replace the serpentine belt or adjust the tensioner so the belt is perfect.

3. If everything looks good under the hood, it’s time to use your multimeter and perform the checking process below:

• Park the car on level ground and set the parking brake
• Wear safety glasses
• Set the meter to 15-20V DC and connect the wires to the battery – the negative wire to the negative terminal and the positive wire to the positive terminal of the battery. The number should be around 12.6 Volts.
• Then, start the engine and check the voltage again very carefully. If the alternator is in good condition and is charging the battery, the minimum figure is about 14.2 Volts. If the voltage is good, turn on the radio, heater, interior lights, and any other electrical devices. The meter should show a number above 13 volts. If the figure is below 13 volts, you will need to buy a new alternator for your vehicle.

Questions and Answers

1. Can a faulty alternator damage a battery?

A faulty alternator will lead to a dead (discharged) battery, preventing the car from starting or running. As we know, the alternator is responsible for charging the battery while the engine is running. If the alternator is faulty and fails to charge the battery properly, the battery’s energy reserve will gradually deplete. Over time, the battery will weaken and eventually die.

A faulty car alternator will affect the charging process and the battery’s operation. At the same time, the car’s electrical equipment also operates abnormally and cannot function at its maximum capacity.

2. How long will alternators last?

Car manufacturers recommend replacing the alternator when it has reached 4 to 8 years of operation or traveled more than 150,000 km or 60,000 miles in some special cases. In some special cases, these times or miles may be earlier to avoid excessive depreciation on this part. Several factors can affect its lifespan, including the number of electrical devices the car has, the quality of the part, and the conditions under which the car is driven.

3. What causes a faulty alternator?

Faulty diodes are the common cause of alternator failure. The diodes are part of the rectifier assembly converting the AC output of the alternator to DC. The charging output of the alternator passes through 6 diodes in the rectifier assembly before going to the electrical system and the battery. Therefore, the higher the charging load, the more they heat up. Depending on each alternator failure situation, there will be different repair methods. In most cases, when a part is damaged, you just need to replace it in the alternator. However, if the damage is irreparable, it’s better to replace the car generator with a new one.

Conclusion

So now you know how to tell if the alternator is faulty and how to fix this problem. For other maintenance tips, keep following to be updated daily.

People no longer use maps to navigate roads when driving their cars. GPS devices have long taken over that role. Additionally, they serve as anti-theft tools and for monitoring driving skills, and are an essential component in businesses like car rentals. Considering all the positives, you might consider equipping your vehicle with such a device. But do you know how to install a GPS tracker in a car?

A GPS system can provide real-time location information of an object. Furthermore, you’ll get data on the car’s speed, movements, and directions. A modern unit is equipped with many innovative features such as setting up a geo-fence, an alarm system for the car that deviates from predefined routes, providing information on stops, and much more.

GPS Tracker in a Car: Is It Necessary?

A GPS device is a data collection device that includes all information about your vehicle. Based on this, drivers can use it to monitor and manage their vehicle’s system via mobile phones/computers connected to the internet with information on the vehicle’s current location, driver, speed, distance traveled, current location, fuel, etc. This information will be continuously updated and displayed on the screen anytime and anywhere.

To answer the question of whether to install a GPS device, we need to understand that using GPS devices on cars can protect your car from theft. Additionally, the benefits of installing a GPS device can be mentioned as follows:

• A GPS can identify the location with 100% accuracy, helping to protect the car from theft. This equipment is an effective assistant in finding the vehicle’s coordinates to report to authorities for handling or assistance in case of an unexpected incident.
• Car GPS navigation also has the functionality to store detailed information about the vehicle’s route such as total mileage and fuel consumption… This is very useful when you need to control travel schedules and update the vehicle’s status in real-time.
• On the other hand, the GPS is designed to issue warnings when the vehicle exceeds speed or deviates from predefined routes to ensure passenger safety.

How to Install the GPS in the Car?

Installing a GPS in a motor vehicle is not complicated. Following these 3 steps to install the GPS in a car will help you understand the process in no time.

Step 1

The first step is to find a power source for the device. There are two ways to draw its power:

Wired – Attach it to the vehicle’s internal wiring by splicing a few wires. However, modifying the wiring could void the car manufacturer’s warranty. This means the manufacturer or authorized dealer will not cover repair costs or be responsible for replacing a part. Furthermore, the wiring must be done by a professional. Amateur work can damage the electronics and affect your car’s performance.

Plugged – The GPS device may come with a power cord and an adapter. In this case, you can simply plug it into the OBD port (located under the steering wheel). The plug of some devices might be compatible with the car’s cigarette lighter port.

Wireless GPS units for RVs with a plug-in function are easy to install and the process requires no professional skills. Additionally, it does not void the manufacturer’s warranty. The plug-in system is the best in terms of convenience and accuracy.

Step 2

Modern GPS devices likely come with a mount and an attached suction cup. You need to place the device in the mount and mount it on the dashboard or windshield.

Securing the device with the windshield might not be a good idea as it can cause distraction and partially block the view. Attach it to the dashboard, in the center or away from the driver’s seat. The suction cup will firmly stick the device to the surface.

Step 3

After plugging the power cord into the designated location, store the extra length of the cable out of your sight using a cord organizer. The final part of installing the GPS in a car involves taking the car for a short drive to see if the device works.

A blend door actuator controls the temperature and airflow in a car. If your vehicle only blows cold air, or if you can’t change the airflow, it may be due to a faulty actuator.

Sometimes the fix requires recalibration, and sometimes you need to replace the broken part. Which route to take depends on your assessment.

In any case, we will describe here how an actuator works and how you can replace it.

Blend Door Actuator: How Does It Work?

A blend door actuator is a small electric motor housing a plastic construction. The unit also integrates a door position sensor that sends information to the air conditioning computer.

This actuator therefore controls the temperature and direction of the air according to the settings. The settings work for different aspects such as temperature, floor, mid-vent, defrost, and fresh air. This way, a passenger can control the air temperature and the direction they want that air to flow.

Depending on the make and year of manufacture, the number of these units varies so that passengers can adjust the air for their comfort.

Why Does an Actuator Go Bad?

The blend door actuator controls the rotation of the air door. This device is a motor that resides in a secure structure. The unit can fail if the motor is burnt out and, as a result, it no longer works.

The next reason could be the structure in which the motor resides. If something is wrong or the structure breaks, the motor may malfunction or operate with some kind of noise.

So now that you know what a blend door actuator is and what can go wrong, calling a professional resolves the issue promptly. You can also opt for the DIY route, and for that, here are the steps.

Replacing the Blend Door Actuator

To replace the blend door actuator, you need to purchase a specific kit that you can order online or buy from a nearby repair center. Doing it yourself can save you the labor cost, and you only pay for the kit itself.

You should start by removing the plastic cover under the car’s dashboard. Use a small socket and a ratchet to remove the bolts, and you will be able to remove the plastic cover.

Once the cover is removed, you will see the wiring and various controls. Here you will find the temperature actuator on the right side that works for the dual climate controls.

Here, you will need a small screwdriver to detach the safety clip from the actuator’s wiring. Gently remove the wiring connector and release the actuator.

Check if any connection is broken or if there is rust around. Proceed to the next step after learning “what a blend door actuator is for“.

You may find other screws that can be easily removed using the screwdriver. Remember to place all your screws properly so you don’t lose them.

Once all the screws are removed, you can remove the actuator for further operation.

Also make sure the vent door is not stuck; manually rotate it in both directions to ensure this.

Ensure there is no obstruction holding the air door; remove dust and debris before installing the new actuator. So the idea is to check the entire assembly and not just the actuator.

Continuing the Process, These Steps Follow

To test the operation of the blend door and verify you are changing the correct actuator motor, turn on the fan motor and operate the door in each direction. You will be able to feel the temperature of the air change or the ventilation level.

When you buy the actuator, it must match the current one. Check that the cable harnesses are identical as they need to go directly with the terminals.

Now it’s time to install the new actuator. Reproduce the positioning of the old actuator and place it accordingly. When tightening the screws, don’t overdo it as they are mounted in a plastic housing that can break.

Once you have done the screws, apply slight pressure to the cable harness connector so it snaps into the actuator. When you hear a click with this push function, it means the connector is properly installed.

When you are sure all wires and bolts are securely fastened, it’s time to put the plastic cover back on. Once you have put the plastic cover on, tighten it using the mounting screws; everything needs to be put back in order.

Next, your job is to check the blend door actuator by using the air conditioning to see if it blows hot and cold air. In most cases, the problem should be fixed, and if not, there is no harm in handing your car over to a professional repairer.

Sometimes there may be a major issue, which can be confirmed after a thorough check. Take a look at some maintenance tips to ensure you are performing the procedure correctly so nothing frays.

FAQ

1. What are the signs of a faulty blend door actuator?

Common signs of a failing blend door actuator include inconsistent temperature control, strange clicking or tapping noises from the dashboard, and poor airflow distribution.

If you are unable to adjust the temperature correctly, or if hot or cold air only comes out during specific events, regardless of your settings, the blend door actuator may be the cause.

2. Can a blend door actuator be repaired, or does it need to be replaced?

In some cases, a blend door actuator can be repaired by replacing the internal gears or components. However, it is often more practical to replace the entire actuator, especially in electric actuator systems, as they can be complex to disassemble and repair.

3. How can I diagnose a blend door actuator problem?

Diagnosing a blend door actuator problem typically involves checking error codes using a diagnostic scanner, listening for unusual noises when adjusting the temperature, and visually inspecting the actuator for any physical damage.

Additionally, consulting the vehicle’s service manual for specific diagnostic procedures can be helpful.

4. Is it possible to replace a blend door actuator yourself, or should it be done by a professional?

Replacing a blend door actuator can be a DIY project if you have mechanical skills and the necessary tools. However, the difficulty can vary depending on your vehicle’s make and model.

Some blend door actuators are relatively easy to access and replace, while others may require more extensive dashboard disassembly.

If in doubt, it is best to consult your vehicle’s service manual or seek the help of a professional mechanic.

5. Are there any maintenance tips to prevent blend door actuator problems?

Regularly changing your vehicle’s cabin air filter can help prevent debris from entering the HVAC system, which can reduce strain on the blend door actuator and extend its lifespan.

Additionally, avoiding sudden temperature changes in the cabin can help reduce wear and tear on the actuator.

Conclusion

Check the blend door actuator on all settings to ensure it is functioning in all modes.

Furthermore, the door might be stuck, and there might be no problem with the actuator. You can confirm this before buying the actuator so you can determine which part is faulty.

This can save you money that you would otherwise spend on the actuator. If it’s just a calibration issue, troubleshooting will be easier and less costly than when you have to perform a replacement.

If in doubt or if you don’t want to deal with the technical details, calling a professional would be a wise decision.

Vehicles manufactured before the 1980s were equipped with a carburetor. But today’s automobiles are equipped with an advanced electronic fuel injection system. As part of this system, a fuel injector functions to spray fuel into the engine. Any problem will seriously affect engine performance and can make driving difficult. It is necessary to detect bad fuel injector symptoms before your precious car suddenly breaks down.

What is the purpose of a fuel injector? Well, it supplies the engine with fuel to facilitate the internal combustion process. It sprays fuel into the engine cylinder via a nozzle. The Engine Control Unit (ECU) monitors the injector’s operation and ensures it sends the correct amount of fuel to the engine at the right time.

Bad Fuel Injector Symptoms

Fuel injectors are unlikely to malfunction if you clean them regularly. When maintenance is not up to par, they can become clogged with dirt and fail completely.

What happens when fuel injectors fail? It certainly affects engine performance. A bad fuel injector will spoil the quantity, timing, angle, pressure, or pattern of the sprayed oil. In any case, the car will not perform as it should.

Here are some common symptoms of a bad fuel injector:

Engine Performance Problems

Fuel injectors not working properly means the engine does not receive enough sprayed fuel. As a result, the combustion process does not start, leading to engine misfires and creating several performance-related issues, such as difficulty accelerating, hesitation after pressing the accelerator pedal, and lower fuel economy.

All these problems are due to an incorrect air/fuel ratio. A delay in this case will lead to overheating and even engine stalling.

Rough Idle

Due to an incorrect amount of fuel in the engine, the vehicle’s RPM drops below the optimal level at idle. As a result, it starts to idle irregularly or roughly. The engine may also stall if the RPM level drops too low.

Engine Vibrations

The fuel sprayed by the injectors facilitates the combustion process. When one of them is faulty, the corresponding cylinder will not be able to fire. The consequence is engine hiccups or constant vibration while driving.

Vibration is one of those bad fuel injector symptoms that correspond to many other engine problems from other sources. Diagnose the fuel injection system to ensure the problem comes from the injectors.

Check Engine Light Illuminates

After all these engine problems, it makes sense that a faulty injector triggers the check engine light. The ECU illuminates the light when it detects an anomaly such as an engine misfire, clogged injectors, or an electrical issue.

Fuel Leak

Due to age, the fuel injector can become punctured or damaged. Oil will escape through the opening when this happens, causing it to leak from the injector body. This could also come from the injector seal, which will only worsen over time. A visual inspection is enough to discover the trace of gasoline on the injector surface or on the fuel rail.

Fuel Smell

A chain reaction from a fuel leak will be a fuel smell. Whether it’s a leak at the injector or its seal, you will smell a gasoline odor. This happens because the oil does not burn as the injector is not functioning correctly. A faulty sensor or fuel lines could also be the cause. Whatever the reason, any kind of gasoline smell must be addressed immediately, lest it turn into a huge safety hazard.

Failed Emissions Test

Bad fuel injector symptoms also include excessive emissions due to incomplete or irregular gasoline combustion. A leak in the injector can make the air/fuel ratio so rich that it can burn out the catalytic converter.

Fuel injectors are essential to a car’s operation and drivability. You should entrust the car to a professional mechanic if it shows any of the signs mentioned above.

Your car’s water pump circulates coolant throughout the engine, where it absorbs heat, and into the radiator, where the coolant is cooled and then recirculated back to the engine to start the process over. (For this reason, the water pump is sometimes called a “coolant pump,” since coolant is a mixture of water and antifreeze.) If the water pump fails to circulate the coolant, the engine will typically overheat very quickly. So, what can cause a water pump to fail and when should you consider replacing it?

What can cause a water pump failure?

Sometimes, it’s not the pump itself that fails; it’s what drives the pump. While most automotive water pumps are driven by the engine via a belt, in some cars, particularly hybrids, the water pump is driven by an electric motor.

In the case of a belt-driven water pump (found in most cars on the road today), the pump will stop working if the belt driving it breaks. This is typically the accessory drive belt, which you can usually see on the outside of the engine (it’s often called a serpentine belt due to how it winds around the pulleys of the components it drives). In some cases, however, the pump may be driven by the engine’s timing belt or timing chain, located inside the engine.

If the pump is driven by the serpentine belt and the belt breaks, you will usually get a “warning” because the battery light should come on on the dashboard or the steering wheel will become hard to turn. This is because the serpentine belt also typically drives the alternator that recharges the battery and, in some cases, the power steering pump.

If the battery light comes on, stop the car as soon as possible and check if the serpentine belt is still in place. (The battery light can also come on because the alternator is faulty, but that is less likely to cause an immediate problem; overheating can.)

In some cars, the power steering pump is also driven by the serpentine belt, and the steering wheel will become hard to turn if the belt breaks. However, many newer cars have electric power steering, in which case the “hard steering” warning will not materialize. If you continue driving, the next indicator will likely be the temperature light coming on.

If the water pump is driven by the internal timing belt or chain and the belt or chain breaks, you don’t have to worry about the engine overheating because the engine will stop running immediately.

Whether the water pump is driven by a belt or an electric motor (which can also fail), the pump itself can have issues. These problems often start with a coolant leak or a squealing noise, so either would warrant taking the car to a mechanic to have it checked. Your engine overheating is another indication that the pump might be faulty.

When should the water pump be replaced?

Although a water pump contains wear components such as seals and bearings, as well as a fan-like impeller that can fail, it is not typically replaced simply as a maintenance item, as it’s not uncommon for a water pump to last at least 100,000 miles. You can help extend the pump’s life by replacing the coolant at the intervals recommended by the manufacturer, as coolant contains additives that help lubricate the pump and prevent corrosion, and these additives “wear out” over time.

However, if the water pump is driven by the internal timing belt or chain, it is often recommended to replace the water pump when you replace the belt or chain, as it will eventually wear out. This is because a large part of the repair cost is due to the amount of labor, and the mechanic often has to remove the water pump anyway.

What to do when your brakes lock up? First of all, it’s a frightening situation if you’re driving. Having no control over the car speeding down the road is downright dangerous. However, it could be an expensive repair job, even if you’re not driving when the car’s brakes are locked.

Discover why brakes lock up and what you can do when it happens. Remember that if you have no mechanical skills, tow the vehicle to an auto repair shop for the best service.

What causes brakes to lock up?

Several reasons can trigger this unfortunate event. The elements that may or may not cause brakes to lock up while driving are:

• Overheated braking system
• Using incorrect brake fluid
• Misaligned brake booster rod
• Damaged or broken calipers, rotors, or drum brake backing plates
• Faulty ABS component, proportioning valve, or parking brake mechanism
• Worn caliper pistons or wheel brake cylinders

What to do when your brakes lock up?

What you need to do depends on how many wheels are locked. Lift the car with a jack and spin the wheels by hand.

It might be a mechanical issue if only one wheel is stiff. Look for a clogged fluid hose or a broken spring.

A clogged hose transfers fluid to the wheel cylinders but prevents it from returning when you release the brake pedal. For this reason, the brakes remain “activated” and appear locked.

A stuck parking brake could cause both wheels on the same axle to lock. This mainly happens to the rear wheels since the parking brake operates on the rear axle.

How to unlock brakes when all wheels are locked? In this case, a faulty or misaligned master cylinder is likely the cause.

What to do when the front brakes lock up while driving?

What causes brakes to lock up while driving? This occurs when you lose control while driving on a slippery surface and brake sharply in a desperate attempt to stop the car. This will only lock the braking system and leave you helpless on the road.

What to do when your brakes lock up?

If the car is not equipped with ABS brakes, release brake pressure when you realize it’s starting to lock. Continue to press and release the brake pedal in rapid succession until the vehicle stops.

A vehicle with ABS brakes is unlikely to lock up unless a component of the system is damaged. Damaged disc brakes, calipers, rotors, wheel bearings, and a handful of other parts can cause locking.

A car with ABS will automatically prevent locking when you start to lose traction on rough tracks. It will pump the brakes so you don’t have to do anything.

All you’ll feel is a pulsating sensation in the brake pedal during hard braking. Simply ignore it and maintain pressure on the pedal to stop the car safely.

FAQ

1. How can I prevent my brakes from locking up?

Preventing brake lock-up involves adopting good driving habits, such as gentle and progressive braking, as well as regular brake maintenance. Regularly inspect your vehicle’s braking system and ensure the ABS is functioning correctly.

2. What immediate action should I take if my brakes lock up while I’m driving?

If you find yourself in a situation where your brakes lock up, the first step is to immediately release the brake pedal.

Then steer your vehicle in the desired direction, avoiding sudden movements. Gradually reapply the brakes with less pressure to regain control.

3. Is it safe to continue driving with locked brakes?

No, it is very dangerous to drive with locked brakes. It could lead to loss of control and accidents. Prioritize releasing the brakes, regaining control of your vehicle, and addressing the underlying issue before continuing your journey.

4. How can I determine if my ABS is faulty?

An ABS malfunction can often trigger a warning light on your vehicle’s dashboard. Additionally, if you notice uncontrolled wheel skidding when you brake, it could be a sign that your ABS system is not working properly.

5. Should I pump the brakes if they lock up?

It is important not to pump the brakes if they lock up. Instead, use a steady and gentle application of the brake pedal to regain control. Pumping the brakes can worsen the problem, especially if your vehicle is equipped with ABS.

6. What should I do if my brakes lock up in adverse weather conditions, such as rain, snow, or ice?

In slippery conditions, such as rain, snow, or ice, brake lock-up can be more challenging to handle.

In such situations, release the brake pedal, steer into the skid (the direction in which the rear of the vehicle is sliding), and gently apply the brakes to regain traction and control.

7. Is it advisable to attempt to repair locked brakes myself?

Repairing locked brakes is a complex and potentially dangerous task. It is recommended to seek the expertise of a qualified mechanic for proper diagnosis and repair.

Attempting to fix brake problems without the necessary knowledge and tools can pose risks to your safety and your vehicle’s operation.

Conclusion

When your brakes lock up, it can be a frightening experience, but knowing how to react can help you stay safe on the road.

So in the end, what to do when your brakes lock up? The key is to stay calm, release the brake pedal, and steer in the direction you want to go. Avoid sudden or sharp movements that could worsen the situation.

If you’re unsure about the condition of your brakes or if they lock up repeatedly, consult a qualified mechanic to diagnose and resolve the issue, ensuring your vehicle’s safety.

If you’ve ever run out of windshield washer fluid when you didn’t have any on hand, you might have wondered if you really need a special fluid or if you could simply use plain water instead. Water is readily available almost everywhere, and filling your reservoir with it would save you a trip to the store. Is plain water an acceptable substitute for windshield washer fluid?

Windshield Washer Fluid vs. Plain Water

If you live in a place where the temperature never drops to freezing, you might get by with clear water—but even then, water doesn’t have the cleaning power of a specialized cleaning fluid to remove bugs, bird droppings, road grime, and other dirt that accumulates on windshields. Windshield washer fluid contains ingredients designed to clean these stubborn messes. Most products are made of methanol and other alcohols like ethylene glycol. Many also contain small amounts of ethanol or alcohol-based antifreeze to prevent the product from freezing during the winter months. The ingredients in windshield washer fluid work together to give you a clean, streak-free windshield, no matter how cold it is outside.

The main advantages of water are that it’s cheaper than windshield washer fluid and more environmentally friendly. Its main drawbacks are its lack of cleaning solvents and detergents and the fact that it freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit, making your vehicle’s washer system useless in cold weather. So even if you live in a very warm climate, keep in mind those trips to Grandma’s in Minneapolis; you don’t want to get stuck in a snowstorm without being able to clean your windshield because you didn’t want to stop at the store to get windshield washer fluid.

Windshield Washer Fluid Works Better but Comes at a Cost

Fluids specifically formulated to clean windshields generally do a better cleaning job than plain water and typically don’t freeze until 20 degrees below zero or lower. The bad news about windshield washer fluid is that it’s usually made of ethanol or methanol, which are toxic to people and animals and can harm the environment. Windshield washer fluid also often includes a dose of ethylene glycol, a toxic alcohol used in automotive antifreeze. These substances can damage paint finishes as well as some plastic and rubber parts of vehicles.

For health and environmental reasons, some vehicle owners make their own windshield washer fluid from non-toxic substances. We have no experience with these homemade preparations and cannot guarantee their effectiveness. However, some people use ingredients like white vinegar and distilled water to clean windshields without using toxic fluids.

Despite the toxicity of over-the-counter windshield washer fluids, it can be downright dangerous to drive without them in many parts of the country, especially in winter. Snow, slush, ice, and road salt can quickly make a windshield unusable. Frequent washing with a high-strength windshield washer fluid designed for winter conditions is the only way to clear away the grime so you can see where you’re going.

Electric vehicles have their own terminology – some familiar, others technical – that can seem mysterious and confusing to the uninitiated. Knowing what these terms mean is essential to deciding not only if an EV is right for you, but also which EV is best for you. For example, do you care how quickly your car accepts gasoline from the pump? No, but you will need to know how fast your car and your home can replenish a battery to take advantage of home charging, and there is no standard answer. But we can get you closer through an understanding of charging-related terms, and more.

Alternating Current (AC)

The form electricity takes in the grid and in homes and other structures

With alternating current, electrons regularly change direction. The relevance of AC in the EV world is that all batteries require direct current (DC), in which electrons always flow in the same direction. So, whenever a vehicle is charged, AC must be converted, or rectified, into DC.

In Level 1 and Level 2 charging, a hidden component in every EV called the onboard charger module handles this task, as well as controlling the charging rate. In the case of public DC fast charging, the charger is external and supplies DC directly to the car’s battery, bypassing its onboard charger module, which is a bottleneck for current flow. The DC fast charger starts with nearly twice the household voltage and rectifies AC externally using components too large for a car to accommodate. These are the two reasons why DC charging can be much faster than Level 2.

Alternating current gets its name because the current changes direction, which happens 60 times per second in the U.S. It’s hard to grasp what that means, and it’s even more confusing when you dig deeper and learn that when the current reverses, technically, it goes from positive to negative in the same conductor. But AC has advantages over DC, such as minimal losses when transmitted over long distances, and the fact that transformers can be used to increase or decrease its voltage. Ironically, most electric cars use AC drive motors, so yes, the DC from the battery must be converted back into AC, a process called inversion, to propel the vehicle. In fact, hybrids typically use AC motors, meaning the current is literally constantly being converted from AC to DC or vice versa. Whenever these conversions occur, whether inside the car or outside, energy losses are associated.

Conventional gasoline and diesel vehicles use belt-driven alternators, which are AC generators, even though all electrical demands are DC.

Alternator

A type of generator that produces alternating current

In all modern conventional cars, the gasoline or diesel engine drives an alternator via a belt to generate the electricity that keeps the starting battery charged and powers the lights, electronics, and other electrical components on board. Nowadays, literally all these devices require DC, which makes a type of generator that produces only alternating current seem like an odd choice, but alternators are the generator of choice because they are smaller, lighter, and more durable, mechanically, than DC generators – three of the criteria that most interest automakers. This has been the case since the 1960s, when solid-state rectification (converting AC to DC) became viable. Alternators incorporate such rectifiers and voltage regulators to ensure the proper DC voltage.

Amps

Abbreviation for amperes, a measure of electrical current that EV owners are most likely to encounter when setting up Level 2 home charging.

Level 2 means 240 volts, but the amount of energy delivered to the car also depends on current flow, which varies significantly among Level 2 chargers. To use the classic plumbing analogy for electricity flowing in a wire, voltage represents the pressure forcing water through a pipe, and current is the water flow determined mainly by the pipe’s diameter. To get more water out of the end of the pipe, you can either increase the pressure or the pipe diameter. It’s the same with electricity: increase the voltage or the current (amperage) to get more power (measured in watts) at the other end of the wire. Just like the pipe, a larger diameter wire has less resistance and allows for greater current flow.

Amperes are the unit for the electrical service a home can distribute from the utility – like 50, 100, or 200 amps – and the current a given circuit or a Level 2 charger can pass.

Battery Pack

The complete energy storage component in an electric or hybrid vehicle, including the individual battery cells as well as supporting electronics and, typically, thermal management provisions.

The cells in a pack, regardless of type, are usually grouped into modules, which add structure and simplify replacing faulty cells. Packs include a battery management system that tracks the pack’s state of charge and monitors cell voltages and temperatures. Packs contain their own fuse and a means of manual disconnection from the rest of the vehicle for maintenance. Contactors (heavy-duty relay switches) are typically present, especially in pure battery-electric systems, to isolate the battery from the vehicle if it fails an onboard safety test or if a collision is detected.Nissan Leaf 2011 Battery Pack | Manufacturer Image

Battery electric vehicles use circulating liquid to manage battery temperature, except for the Nissan Leaf (pack shown), which has no active thermal management. In most of these packs, there are channels through which coolant (usually a mix of water and conventional antifreeze) flows and then exits the battery to be conditioned either in a simple radiator or in a heat exchanger connected to an air conditioning or heat pump circuit.

Battery Cell

The smallest component of a battery, hundreds of which may be needed to achieve the voltages necessary to power a hybrid or electric car.

Like all other individual battery cells, these operate at only a few volts each. (What we call a battery with a higher voltage, like a 12-volt car battery, is itself a collection of separate cells in a case – in this example, six cells.) Lithium-ion battery cells come in three basic types, namely three shapes: cylindrical, prismatic, and pouch. The cylindrical batteries that power some EVs look so much like something you might put in a flashlight that one might think they are unsophisticated. Detractors have said as much about their packaging efficiency because their shape leaves space between them, but Tesla seems to have done very well for most of its history, even though the brand is now interested in prismatic cells, which are shaped like a deck of cards or a candy bar. The style of choice among most other EV manufacturers has been the pouch, which resembles a nearly empty Ziploc mylar sandwich bag. Unlike the other two styles, the floppy pouch relies on a battery module for its structure.Chevrolet Volt Battery Pouch Cell | Manufacturer Image

Battery Module

A structural subset of an electric vehicle’s battery pack in which the battery cells are divided and contained for monitoring and, if necessary, replacement

Since a battery cell’s voltage is on the order of a few volts, dozens or even hundreds of them are used in EVs, grouped into enclosures that provide structure (particularly important for pouch cells) and simplify wiring. Each module typically has its own voltage and temperature sensor and has only two terminals, regardless of the number of cells wired together, which depends on the manufacturer’s design. Typically, modules include insulated channels through which coolant flows to manage the thermal state of the battery pack.

Combined Charging System (CCS)

A nearly universal (except for Tesla) EV charging connector on the U.S. market that combines the J1772 AC connector with two conductors for DC fast charging into a single composite port.

While early Japanese-origin electric cars relied on a separate connector called CHAdeMO for DC fast charging, most new EVs with this capability (except for Tesla, which has its own connector) provide this composite CCS port. When searching for public charging options online or via an app, owners of these cars must select J1772 for Level 2 charging and CCS for DC fast charging.Combined Charging System Gun (left) and Car Port |

Direct Current (DC)

The form electricity takes in batteries and in most electronic circuits

With direct current, electrons flow in a single direction. The main relevance in the EV world is that electricity is transmitted in the power grid as alternating current (AC). So, whenever the car’s battery is charged, AC must be converted or rectified into DC. With Level 1 and Level 2 charging, the car itself accomplishes this via an invisible component called the onboard charger module. DC fast chargers start with nearly twice the household voltage and rectify AC externally using bulky components often hidden away from the charging area before supplying DC directly to the car’s battery, bypassing its integrated charger module, which is a bottleneck for current flow.

Although some EVs use DC drive motors, most use AC motors, meaning the vehicle must convert the battery’s DC into AC to accelerate – and vice versa during regenerative braking. Rectification and inversion, which is the name for DC-to-AC conversion, result in inefficiencies, but automakers choosing AC motors are thinking about the vehicle’s overall performance and efficiency, not a single component or process. For what it’s worth, even a conventional vehicle relies on AC through the use of an alternator, which is a generator that produces AC, even though DC reigns throughout the vehicle.

DC Fast Charging

A type of public charging that can charge compatible vehicles several times faster than the fastest Level 2 AC charger by supplying higher DC voltage directly to the battery. Tesla Superchargers are DC fast chargers.

Current EVs are better suited for DC fast charging when time is of the essence (e.g., on a long trip or when range is low). The term “fast” is in the name, but EV beginners won’t find DC fast charging comparable to a gasoline fill-up, which can provide hundreds of miles of range in minutes. Automakers generally claim DC fast charging involves 30-minute sessions, but that rarely represents a full charge. While more and more automakers include free DC fast charging with the purchase of a new EV, almost all acknowledge that frequent fast charging will compromise the vehicle’s battery life. When there is a cost, fast charging is more expensive than public Level 2 charging, usually enough to negate the financial benefits of electric driving with home charging.Electrify America Charging Station | Manufacturer Image

DC fast chargers and the three-phase AC they require make them extremely expensive for home installation. The power they provide ranges from 24 to 350 kW, but there is no guarantee the EV, regardless of its own acceptance specification, will charge at that rate.

Destination Charging

A new name for public Level 2 charging where EVs can be parked long enough to add appreciable miles

Popularized by Tesla, the term destination charging aims to distinguish slower away-from-home charging from DC fast charging (or Supercharging, in Tesla parlance).

Drag Coefficient (Cd)

A measure of a vehicle’s resistance to the air it passes through

The sleeker shape of current vehicles reflects an aerodynamic movement that started several decades ago, partly to improve fuel efficiency. Drag, like a stuck parking brake or any other form of resistance, opposes the effort of the engine or drive motor. The higher a vehicle’s drag coefficient, the harder its engine works and the more fuel it consumes, whether gasoline, diesel, or electricity.

A vehicle’s drag coefficient is influenced not only by its size and shape but also by the surface area of its underside and how high it sits off the ground. Vehicles that hug the ground tend to be more aerodynamic, which is why modern vehicles with active suspensions are often designed to automatically lower at highway speeds. There’s no doubt that the most efficient vehicles on the market – typically hybrids and electrics – are hatchbacks, because the high rear end is inherently more aerodynamic than a traditional sedan or coupe with a trunk that drops abruptly from the roofline. Vehicle designers work in wind tunnels to try to gain hundredths of a point on future models. After going as far as possible with general shapes, engineers have turned their attention to airflow around the wheels, in and above engine compartments with active grille shutters and flush exterior door handles, which increasingly retract flush with the body sides. Side mirrors are a long-standing target that would be replaced by cameras if not for federal and state regulations requiring named mirrors.

EVSE

Electric Vehicle Service Equipment (or Supply Equipment)

An EVSE is what we commonly call an electric car charger, whether it’s the provided maintenance charging cord or a more robust Level 2 unit you can install at home or find at a “destination” public charging station. The reason for this different name is that, in electronics, the name charger is technically reserved for the component that handles battery charging and, if necessary, converts AC to DC. The EVSE does neither. Every car is equipped with an onboard charger, which you can’t see, that fulfills these roles. The EVSE is primarily a safety device that protects you and your vehicle from damage, incorporating a bit more than a ground-fault circuit interrupter, switches, and circuits that communicate how much power it can supply to an EV.

Whether it’s a J1772 or Tesla connector, 240 volts is a lot to hold in your hand, especially if you’re outside in the rain. The EVSE will not provide high voltage to the cable until the connector is plugged into the EV. Once inserted, the car can detect the EVSE’s pilot signal, which indicates how much power it can supply. Charging can then begin, and the EVSE triggers a heavy-duty switch, called a contactor, that powers the cable. You can usually hear this contactor click. Similarly, if you remove a connector from an EV, as soon as you press the unlock button, the car and EVSE stop charging, so there is no danger.

Frunk

A contraction of “front” and “trunk” representing the front trunk that the elimination of a front-mounted internal combustion engine often makes possible in electric vehicles.

Like the name itself, frunks tend to amuse and satisfy people, and they can add versatility to a vehicle, but they aren’t always an advantage. We remind buyers not to lose sight of the vehicle’s overall cargo capacity. For example, the Volkswagen ID.4, which has no frunk, offers more cubic feet of storage volume behind the rear seat than its competitor, the Ford Mustang Mach-E, when its frunk and rear cargo volumes are combined.

Inverter

An electronic component that converts direct current to alternating current

Inverters are crucial components in electric cars, as well as most hybrids, because the vast majority of electric motors used in both types of vehicles are AC while batteries are always DC, making conversion necessary via a traction inverter, so named because its sole task is to create AC to power an AC traction motor. The term inverter has also proliferated due to Ford’s use of this technology in its Pro Power Onboard option that powers 120- and 240-volt outlets in the beds of 2021 F-150 hybrids (and, subsequently, F-150 Lightning EVs). This system can supply AC power from the hybrid battery alone, even if a low state of charge will cause the hybrid truck’s engine to start. Pro Power Onboard recalls so-called inverter generators, backup generators that similarly generate AC, rectify it to DC, and then convert it back to AC. That seems ridiculous, but it’s this redundant conversion that allows inverter generators to run their engines at variable speeds depending on load – a more efficient and quieter approach – leaving AC production to the electronics. Conversely, conventional generators are actually alternators that must run at a constant speed (full speed and maximum power, essentially) just to maintain a constant 60-hertz AC cycle.

J1772

The international SAE standard governing EV charging, but also the name of the type of charging connector on most non-Tesla EVs and chargers in the U.S.

J1772 isn’t a very good name for

Detecting a boost leak in a car can be challenging. These leaks can damage the entire engine and turbocharger. It is crucial to detect and repair the leak as quickly as possible to prevent further damage. You may face higher repair costs if you don’t address the issue promptly. However, the symptoms of a boost leak can tell you a lot about this vehicle problem.

Your car’s engine may eventually perform poorly. The engine’s power drops to the lowest levels, and the vehicle might start making strange noises.

Before discussing some of the symptoms, drivers should understand what a boost leak is.

Definition of a Boost Leak

A car engine includes pipes, seals, hoses, clamps, and many other components. These loose or damaged components can lead to a boost leak. A boost leak also occurs when the supercharger cannot handle the air pressure, which typically comes from the intake path before the engine cylinders. Car engines equipped with turbochargers exert enough pressure on the components to produce optimal performance. But when a clamp cannot handle this pressure, air begins to escape, resulting in a boost leak.

In short, it is usually an air leak that affects engine performance.

This typically happens with engines equipped with turbo engines rather than non-turbo ones. More specifically, the hoses and pipes associated with the turbo are directly exposed to the heat of the engine compartment and the turbo’s pressure, leading to cracks and leaks. Another situation is due to a loose engine mount. In addition to the engine’s torque, the pressure can twist a pipe and create leaks. Boost leaks also occur in non-turbo engines, but the chances are low. The number of pipes, hoses, and clamps is lower in non-turbo engines.

The Ultimate Explanation of Boost Leak Symptoms

To understand how to check for boost leaks, we have prepared a list of symptoms and causes of turbo boost leaks:

Poor Acceleration

A car that accelerates poorly is one of the main symptoms of a boost leak. The vehicle ends up performing poorly when there is a leak issue inside the engine. Car owners may experience a loss of power during acceleration.

Faulty clamps and flexible pipes are the main causes of this problem. You may need to repair the boost leak to achieve faster acceleration.

Fuel Consumption

An engine with a boost leak problem will certainly consume more fuel. According to expert maintenance tips, checking the vehicle’s average fuel consumption would help identify the issue.

Turbochargers give the engine the power it needs to perform better. But faulty vacuum hoses lead to higher fuel consumption. Detecting and repairing couplers, clamps, and flexible hoses would help eliminate the problem.

Check Engine Light

To know how to find a boost leak, the engine light can be a clue. If drivers see a flashing check engine light on the dashboard, it is highly likely they have a boost leak. The only way to resolve this issue is to go to a garage and have mechanics read the error codes.

Smoke and Noise from the Engine

Other symptoms include smoke from the exhaust and the noise of a boost leak from the engine. The engine starts burning more fuel and produces black smoke. Faulty components inside the engine always lead to strange noises.

The main cause of this problem can be loose clamps or cracks. The boost leak generates excessive heat inside the engine, causing cracks in various components.

Repairing it as soon as possible is important to save money in the future. A full engine repair will certainly cost more than fixing a boost leak.

How to Fix a Boost Leak

After drivers have a thorough understanding of all boost leak symptoms, it is now time to determine the method for repairing a boost leak.

Buy a Boost Leak Tester

Have you ever wondered why car mechanics can detect a boost leak so quickly? The answer is to perform a boost leak test using a testing device. Instead of struggling to test whether your car is leaking or not, this device will test it for you. It is recommended to have one so that car owners don’t have to spend time and money at a mechanic’s garage.

The way to use this tester is very simple: remove the turbo intake and place the boost leak tester, then car owners will attach an air compressor to the system and wait for the pressure to rise. You can find the damaged spots by listening for air leaks.

However, if you don’t have a testing device and still want to look for the boost leak, we offer a second method:

Check the Couplers and Clamps

The clamp is one of the most common factors for boost leaks, so our recommendation is to check the clamps and couplers connected to the engine. What you’re looking for are loose clamps.

To find the errors, we need to look even deeper inside. After examining the compressor housing, car owners will look around the vacuum lines and the blow-off valve controller. Around these areas, it is suggested to inspect the clamps to see if they are properly tightened.

Repairing a Boost Leak

As we all know, loose couplers and clamps are the cause of leaks.

Drivers can start by tightening them and see what happens next. If the leaks don’t stop, it is recommended to call a mechanic.

Frequently Asked Question

How to Know If You Have a Boost Leak?

There are two most common solutions for checking boost leaks: the intake pressure test and the smoke test. Drivers can start by pressurizing the intake, then applying soapy water. If there are bubbles, there are boost leaks. The same technique applies to the smoke test, but instead of using soapy water, the smoke tester will provide a visual indication.

What Does a Leaking Turbo Mean?

Although many different factors can cause oil leaks, most of them come from compressor and turbine housing issues. While boost leaks can slowly affect the engine, oil leaks significantly damage bearing systems. For this reason, it is recommended to take your car to a mechanic’s workshop immediately.

What Can Cause Turbo Failure?

There are three main causes of turbo failure: oil contamination, lack of oil, and damage from foreign objects. More specifically, oil is the primary cause of turbo failure.

Final Words

That’s everything you need to know about the symptoms and causes of boost leaks. Neglecting a boost leak would not be good for the engine or the turbo’s lifespan. You risk damaging your engine’s turbo or the engine itself. By understanding these boost leak symptoms, drivers should keep these components in good condition, as it is necessary to add years to the engine’s life.

Today, we will learn how to test the wheel speed sensor when you suspect it is malfunctioning, so that smooth driving doesn’t come to a halt.

A wheel speed sensor, as the name suggests, detects the speed of a wheel. The sensor reads the total number of wheel rotations and informs the driver. Therefore, it can be said to function like a tachometer.

There is a simple and quick method to perform the speed sensor test.

How to Test the Wheel Speed Sensor: Avoid Penalties

It is essential to monitor the speed sensor because it allows the driver to know the speed. This way, they drive in a controlled manner. In the United States, you can easily be penalized with speeding tickets.

These tickets affect your overall driving record, which can cause you trouble when choosing a job or insurance for your vehicle.

We will discuss the wheel speed sensor in more detail: to determine if the sensor is faulty or not, we use the stator ring. The faster the stator ring spins, the greater the voltage generated.

Car owners can connect a code tool to pinpoint the sensor. They can also check them manually.

When the speed sensor is working correctly, you know the driving speed so you can control it accordingly. This is actually the most important thing every driver wants. Let’s move on to the method of testing a speed sensor.

Preparing the Car

When you are ready to test the speed sensor, you must first prepare your car. Place your vehicle on level ground and turn off the engine.

To proceed further with “how to test the wheel speed sensor“, use the transmission in park settings with the parking brake.

You need to use a jack to lift your car in order to remove the tire for part replacement and testing purposes. This allows for testing the sensor since your vehicle is in the correct position. Keep all tools within reach so you don’t have to rush to grab them.

Here are the tools you need:

• Your car’s manual
• Floor jack
• Tire iron
• Assistant
• Voltmeter
• Electrical cable
• Torque wrench

Continuing the Steps – Removing the Connector

Access the wheel speed sensor once your car is raised on the jack and you have removed the wheel. There, you need to locate the electrical connector.

In most cases, it is located near the wheel frame. New car owners are often confused by other cable harnesses connected to the wheel, such as the brake pad wear sensor.

Disconnect the sensor wire by unlocking the safety latch and gently remove it. This will expose the sensor terminals you will need for testing purposes. Alongside these terminals, you can also see the voltmeter probes.

Working with the Voltmeter

The terminals you have exposed will be used with the voltmeter. You see these probes in the voltmeter; these probes need to be attached to the sensor terminals.

You must use the alligator clips provided with the meter to securely fasten the sensor.

When connecting the sensor terminals for the wheel speed sensor test, ensure that the probes do not touch each other. Otherwise, the sensor will not be able to provide correct results.

A voltmeter with handheld probes is most likely to cause fluctuating readings. Avoid having these probes if you want accurate readings. This will overall make testing quite easy.

When you see that the probes and terminals are well connected, it’s time to activate the alternating voltage. You can immediately see the readings on the meter going up and down. This indicates that the sensor is ready to be tested.

Finally Moving to the Test

Now, we finally move on to the progression of the test. We understand that the wheel or hub creates a voltage by observing the voltmeter’s rotation, as it depends on the speed.

To get the readings on the voltmeter, you need to spin this wheel or the hub. The readings vary depending on the wheel’s speed. Consequently, it shows the meter readings dropping to zero once the wheel stops.

If you can see the values displayed on the meter when you spin the wheel, it indicates that the sensor is working. Conversely, if no value appears on the meter, regardless of the spinning, it indicates that the sensor is faulty and you should consider replacing it.

Tip: when you cannot find the sensor wire connector, consult the driver’s manual provided with your car.

Replacing the Wheel Speed Sensor

Once you have determined that there are no readings in the voltmeter, it means you need to replace the speed sensor. Access the nuts or clips holding the sensor and unscrew them. This will detach the sensor from the vehicle so you can remove it.

Before installing the new sensor, inspect the area and look for any signs of rust. Take sandpaper and scrape the surface where you will place the new sensor.

Once the new sensor is in place, tighten it using the provided screws or clips. Test the sensor using the voltmeter, and it should now show you the measured values when you spin the wheel.

If you removed the brake pads and discs to get a clear view of the speed sensor, put them back as well.

In this way, you must put everything back in order or assemble the parts correctly. Once you are done with the brake pads and sensor parts, it’s about putting those wheels back on the hubs. Adjust them all perfectly and tighten using the wheel nuts with a ratchet and socket.

Use the jack again and put the vehicle back in place using the jack stand. Lower the vehicle until it reaches the ground, in the default position.

It’s time to tighten the wheel or use those wheel nuts to mount the wheel onto the vehicle. Use the nuts and tighten them by hand. Once they seem well fitted, use a torque wrench.

The torque wrench must be set according to your vehicle’s torque capacity. Use the manual to find your car’s torque range and set it accordingly.

Now, go to those nuts and secure them safely using the torque wrench. You should be finished in a minute or two!

Conclusion

In the final step, you are supposed to test the vehicle to ensure everything is working correctly.

Also observe the wheel speed sensor or if you are informed of the vehicle’s current speed. And that’s how to test the wheel speed sensor and replace it if the sensor fails!