Does your car’s air conditioner not keep you cool enough or provide much comfort during hot summers, and do you need the temperature in your car to be colder? Don’t worry! We will show you some simple tricks you can apply to make your car’s air conditioning much cooler. Let’s take an in-depth look at how to make car air conditioning colder in the summer.

How to Make the Car Air Conditioning Colder?

Some drivers worry about why their car’s air conditioner isn’t cooling enough. You need to understand that on a sunny day, the car’s air conditioner often works under overload, especially when starting the car after it has been parked in the sun for a long time. Sometimes, the air conditioner’s capacity is still not enough to satisfy the driver in heavy weather, so you still feel sweaty even with the car’s air conditioning on because the amount of cool air isn’t sufficient inside the car.

Normally, when starting your car after it has been parked outside for a long time, drivers often turn the cold mode to the maximum to quickly cool the interior. This is partly true but not necessarily correct because it will affect the lifespan of other devices in your car. You might have thought that using the car’s air conditioner was simply about turning it on and off. However, if used incorrectly, the car’s air conditioner won’t be cold and will consume a lot of fuel.

The air conditioning system’s function is to cool your car’s space during the summer heat, and everyone can adjust the temperature to suit the cockpit. However, we will share some tips with you to help your car air conditioner cooler and burn less fuel. Discover how to make your car’s air conditioning colder?

Don’t Turn on the Air Conditioning Before Getting in Your Car

The car’s air conditioning will work much better when you are actually driving; the faster the engine runs, the faster the air conditioning compressor operates, allowing for a more efficient cooling system. Don’t waste time or fuel by turning on the air conditioner first to cool the car before driving. If the car’s interior is very hot, turn on the fan when you start driving and only open the rear windows for 10 to 20 seconds. This will push all the hot air out of the cabin. Don’t open the front windows because that will only move the hot air to the front of the interior, while the hot air in the back remains stagnant and the interior stays hot.

Note: Do not turn on the air conditioner at the same time as starting your vehicle. Because if you simply get in the car and turn on the air conditioner, the car will start at a low idle already under a heavy load, and the battery can be easily damaged.

Set the Air Conditioning to the Coldest Setting

This is a simple method to apply. When the air conditioner is on, set the mode to MAX or REC at the highest level to quickly cool the car. After feeling cool enough, start switching to NORM, OUTSIDE, or COOL mode, and lower the fan level. At that point, the airflow will recirculate inside your car and bring you a lot of relief. Do not switch to the coldest setting when you just start the car.

Ensure the Filter is Clean

Please check the air filter and make sure it is clean. Dirty cabin filters will prevent optimal airflow. In newer cars, these filters are relatively easy to check; if you see a lot of dirt accumulating on them, it means it’s time to change the filter. You can save money by replacing the filter yourself in many modern cars. Of course, if that doesn’t work, you need to go to a car dealership.

Apply Car Insulation Film

In fact, this is considered an effective solution and also one of the pieces of equipment that should be available after buying a car. Note that you should choose a reflective windshield that limits heat absorption during prolonged parking in the sun. Keep in mind, the insulation film is only effective when the car is moving, and parking in one spot only partially limits heat but allows for faster cooling.

Park Your Car in the Shade

Did you know that when a car is parked in direct sunlight, the temperature inside your car can reach 131-172°F while the actual outside temperature is only 80-100°F? Therefore, parking in the shade is the most active and effective way: drivers can park their car in the shade of trees, under roofs, or on the side of a building,… or use sunshades to cover the windows. Limit direct sunlight inside the interior compartment, and this will reduce the heat inside your car.

Correctly Turn On/Off the Air Conditioner

Before starting the car, you should turn on the extraction fan and open the window to let out the hot air. Then, once the hot air is blown out, you close the window and turn on the air conditioner. This prevents the air conditioning system from being overloaded and allows your vehicle to cool more optimally. If you want to stop the car or turn off the engine, you can first turn off the air conditioning, turn off the fan, then open the door and get out.

Periodic Air Conditioning Maintenance

Many drivers often do not pay attention to the periodic maintenance of their car’s air conditioning. This easily leads to the air conditioner taking a long time to cool or the car’s air conditioning not being cold when turned on. You should go to a specialized air conditioning repair center to maintain this system. Because the air conditioning system’s structure includes many details such as the outdoor unit, indoor unit, air filter, fan, and refrigerant gas,… Timely and correct air conditioning maintenance will provide deep cooling performance and help you feel comfortable when traveling in the car.

Using the Outside Air Mode

In cases where you don’t have time to start your car, use the fan and use the outside air mode to create convection to suck out the hot air and draw in air. This helps the vehicle dissipate heat faster and at the same time, pushes the carcinogenic toxins generated by the reaction of heated plastic at high temperature to the outside environment. Even when the car has been driven, this can be combined with opening the window for a faster effect.

In fact, many drivers often think that turning on the strongest fan in combination with the air conditioner will cool faster. But actually, some tests show that the air conditioner reaches the coldest temperature when the fan mode has a medium level and is generally optimized when using the automatic air conditioning function, although this mode may take longer than a manual setting.

Add Additives to Your Car

In the middle of the summer heat, it seems that your car’s air conditioner is also busier or overworked. To solve this problem, many drivers have used additives like Ice Cold to support the air conditioning system and cool the space in their car. These additives will make functional air conditioners more efficient. There are many types of additives on the market, so make sure to choose the right type for the air conditioning system.

Final Thoughts

It’s not difficult and doesn’t cost too much for drivers to follow all the above methods. Summer is coming, let’s make sure you experience the best driving in a cool place in your own car.

It’s time to pay attention to your car if it emits smoke from the exhaust pipe. The smoke can be different colors and may not be dangerous at all. However, you should not ignore white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe as it could be a sign of major problems.

What Does White Smoke from the Exhaust Pipe Mean?

Sometimes, normal condensation buildup inside the exhaust system causes a very fine white vapor. There’s no need to worry in this case because it disappears very quickly. Sometimes, white smoke can be due to condensation.

When starting your car, you will see smoke escaping from the exhaust pipe. White smoke that dissipates quickly, especially in cold weather, is likely due to condensation in the exhaust system. This is a normal phenomenon and usually not a concern. It often happens when the engine starts after idling for some time.

On the other hand, thick white smoke could be a warning sign of many serious problems such as a cracked cylinder head, a blown head gasket, or a cracked engine block – all of which are expensive repairs.

Coolant burning is another reason for white smoke. Even a small leak poses a risk of overheating and thus serious engine damage. Coolant could mix with oil and damage important engine parts. When the coolant reservoir leaks, the fluid inside flows out, causing engine oil contamination and the exhaust smoke becomes milky.

Furthermore, low coolant level is also a cause of white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe. This causes the head gasket to fail, leading to wear of internal components and possible coolant leakage. At this point, the car owner must perform a thorough inspection of the crack in the head gasket to decide whether to reseal or replace it accordingly.

White smoke from the exhaust system, if not addressed promptly, will cause too much damage and reduce the engine’s lifespan. Even in the long term, this incident can cause fire and explosion when using the vehicle.

How to Stop Smoking in Car Exhaust?

When the vehicle starts emitting white smoke, drivers should check the vehicle parts and quickly remedy this situation to ensure safety and minimize subsequent repair costs. Follow these steps if your vehicle emits an excessive amount of white vapor:

Inspect the Intake Gasket

An intake manifold evenly distributes coolant or the combustion mixture to each intake port of the cylinder heads. There is a gasket that seals this manifold to the head. If it fails or is damaged, coolant will enter the port and then into the combustion chamber. Your job is to remove the intake manifold and examine the gasket to see if there is a leak or rust. If everything went well, proceed to the next step.

Examine in More Detail to Check the Head Gasket

When the intake gasket is in good condition, probe further to discover the reason for the smoke. There is a head gasket that seals the cylinder head to a block through which coolant flows to the cylinder. Any leak or damage in this part will allow coolant to enter the combustion chamber and create a jet of white vapor coming out of the exhaust pipe.

Look for Any Crack in the Cylinder Head

This part is made of aluminum which tends to break in case of overheating. You must change it if it appears broken or damaged in another way. It is important to ensure that it seals evenly with the engine block and the head gasket.

Solving such a problem is easy if you are an experienced mechanic. However, it will be wise to take the vehicle to a repair shop because changing any car part is a complicated job for an amateur.

Coolant is an antifreeze ingredient that keeps the engine cool when everything is normal. However, white smoke escapes from the exhaust pipe when this element leaks into the engine’s combustion compartment.

A pungent smell accompanies the vapor, which is a simple way to detect the problem. Other symptoms are engine overheating and loss of coolant without any visible leak.

Learn more about the repair process:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=tLJC-chKgso%3Ffeature%3Doembed

Car emissions not only affect human health but also the environment, especially in high-traffic areas.

White smoke from car exhaust is due to many different causes, but if the car emits white smoke at times other than winter, drivers must handle it quickly to avoid damaging the engine and reducing the vehicle’s power on long trips. Therefore, vehicle owners must understand the causes and ways to repair white smoke in their car and plan periodic maintenance and regular vehicle inspection for quick solutions.

So, what are the advantages and disadvantages of drilled and slotted rotors?

Drilled and slotted rotors are a type of brake rotor designed to improve a vehicle’s braking performance. The rotors are drilled with holes and grooves, which increases the surface area and enhances rotor ventilation. This can help dissipate heat more effectively and provide better braking performance.

These rotors have been known for some time, but they have become increasingly popular lately. Initially, they were mainly used in race cars and high-performance vehicles. The first drilled and slotted rotors were made of cast iron. But with technological advancements, they are now made from more effective materials such as carbon ceramic, composites, and aluminum. These rotors have been used in motorsports for over a century. And over time, the technology has evolved, and they are now accessible for everyday use vehicles.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Drilled and Slotted Rotors

Below are the advantages and disadvantages of drilled and slotted rotors for your reference.

Advantages of Drilled and Slotted Rotors

Improved Braking Performance

Drilled and slotted rotors offer driving performance that is more in demand than ever, thanks to their increased surface and ventilation effects. The holes and grooves on the rotor increase the surface area, allowing for more friction between the brake pads and the rotor. This additional friction improves the vehicle’s braking performance.

Drilling holes and grooves also allows for better heat dissipation. Temperature is one of the biggest enemies of brake performance, as it can cause brakes to fade or lose braking power. They can provide better and more stable braking performance by dissipating the heat generated during braking.

Increased Heat Dissipation

Holes and slots are drilled into the surface of the fan blades for more effective heat dissipation. This increased ventilation on the rotor allows hot air to escape and cooler air to enter the rotor. This helps reduce the temperature of the rotor and brake pads, preventing them from overheating and deforming.

Improved Braking in Wet Weather

The holes and grooves drilled into the rotor surface can push water away from the braking surface. When driving in rainy weather, water can accumulate on the brake disc, reducing the friction between the brake pads and the disc. This can reduce braking force, thereby improving braking performance in wet conditions. With better wet-weather braking, vehicle owners can enjoy a safer and more comfortable driving experience in the rain.

Enhanced Aesthetics

Drilled and slotted rotors can give the vehicle a sportier appearance, which can enhance its overall aesthetic look. The holes and grooves drilled on the rotor can give the car a sporty and high-performance look. This can be particularly appealing to car owners who want to customize and improve their vehicle’s appearance. Overall, they can be a way to stand out and make the car more unique.

Increased Stopping Power

Thanks to the improved design and ventilation system, drilled and slotted rotors have better stopping power than conventional types. The holes and grooves on the rotor increase the surface area, allowing for more friction between the brake pads and the rotor. This additional friction improves the vehicle’s braking performance.

Drilled and slotted rotors also allow for better heat dissipation. This keeps the rotor and brake pads cooler, preventing the brake pads from overheating and losing their braking power. This can significantly affect the vehicle’s braking power, especially in high-performance or high-speed driving conditions.

Better Performance on High-Speed Vehicles

The rotors can perform better in high-speed and high-performance driving conditions. Thanks to improved ventilation and design, drilled and slotted rotors can withstand higher temperatures and braking loads than conventional rotors.

They can also help improve the vehicle’s braking performance at high speeds, providing a safer and more enjoyable drive.

Extends Brake Pad Lifespan

Improved ventilation of drilled and slotted rotors can help extend the lifespan of brake pads. Drilled and slotted rotors can reduce brake pad wear by dissipating the heat generated during braking.

Additionally, the increased surface area of the rotor gives the brake pads more space to grip the rotor, resulting in a more even distribution of braking pressure. This can help avoid uneven wear on the brake pads. With a longer brake pad lifespan, vehicle owners can save time and money on brake pad replacement costs.

Reduced Vibrations

The design of drilled and slotted rotors reduces vibrations during braking, providing a better driving feel. The slotted or drilled holes will disperse heat, thereby reducing the annoying vibrations created during braking.

Additionally, the increased surface area of the rotor can help distribute braking pressure more evenly, which can also help reduce vibrations. This can result in a smoother and more comfortable driving experience.

Easy to Clean

The drilled holes and slots make it easier to clean brake dust, rust, and other contaminants. The drilled holes and slots can help remove dirt and brake debris. Since they are much easier to clean than conventional rotors, which can be quite difficult because brake dust and dirt can accumulate on the rotor surface. This can help keep the rotor surface clean and extend the rotor’s lifespan.

Better Durability

The design of drilled and slotted rotors makes them more durable and resistant to wear. The increased surface area of the rotor can help distribute braking pressure more evenly, which can help prevent rotor wear.

Additionally, the improved ventilation of drilled and slotted rotors can prevent the rotor from warping and cracking, which can extend its lifespan.

Reduced Brake Fade

Drilled and slotted rotors provide better cooling, which can reduce brake fade during high-performance driving. The rotor can become very hot during high-speed operation or under high-performance conditions, which can cause the brake pads to lose friction with the rotor and result in brake fade.

The fan blades are drilled and slotted for better ventilation, can dissipate heat more effectively, and can reduce brake fade. This can result in a safer and more enjoyable driving experience.

Better Warp Resistance

Thanks to the design of drilled and slotted rotors, they are less prone to warping or cracking under high temperatures and heavy use. The increased ventilation of drilled and slotted rotors can provide more effective heat dissipation, preventing the rotor from warping and cracking.

Additionally, the increased surface area of the rotor can help distribute braking pressure more evenly, which can also help prevent warping and cracking.

Disadvantages of Drilled and Slotted Rotors

Noise

Drilled and slotted rotors can make more noise than standard rotors, especially during high-speed braking. The drilled and slotted design can cause more vibration in the brake pads, leading to noticeable squealing or squeaking.

Compatibility Issues

Drilled and slotted rotors are not compatible with all vehicles and braking systems. It is essential to check the compatibility of drilled and slotted rotors with the specific vehicle make and model before purchasing and installing them. Additionally, drilled and slotted rotors may require specific types of pads and braking systems to function properly.

Reduced Brake Feel

Drilled and slotted brake rotors can negatively affect the “feel” of the brake pedal. Designs with holes and grooves can result in less pedal resistance, making it difficult for the driver to accurately gauge the braking force applied. This can lead to a less safe and less precise driving experience.

More Heat

Drilled and slotted rotors can generate more heat than standard rotors, leading to increased brake fade. This is because the hole and groove design can cause the brake pads to overheat more effectively, which can cause the brake pads to lose their ability to grip the rotor and reduce overall braking force. This can be particularly challenging during high-speed driving or in emergency braking situations.

Reduced Energy Efficiency

Drilled and slotted rotors can harm fuel efficiency. This type of rotor design pushes the brake pads to create more drag, forcing the vehicle to consume more fuel to maintain a steady speed. The disadvantages frequently affect vehicles on highways or over long distances.

Reduced Resale Value

Drilled and slotted rotors can negatively affect a vehicle’s resale value. Slotted models are often considered performance upgrades, making a vehicle less attractive to potential buyers who are not interested in performance enhancements.

Additionally, additional wear due to drilled and slotted rotors can negatively impact the vehicle’s resale value.

Reduced Stopping Force

Drilled and slotted rotors can reduce the overall stopping force of the vehicle’s braking system. Designs with holes and grooves can put extra stress on the rotors and brake pads, causing them to wear out more quickly, thus reducing their effectiveness. This can be particularly challenging in emergency braking situations, where maximum stopping force is required.

Requires More Maintenance

You may not know it, but drilled and slotted rotors require more maintenance to perform as typically as conventional rotors. Their design, with holes and grooves, can create more dust and debris, clogging the brake pads and causing them to wear out faster.

Additionally, the design can cause the blades to rust more quickly, requiring more frequent cleaning and anti-rust treatment.

Reduced Comfort

Drilled and slotted brake rotors can reduce the overall comfort of your vehicle’s braking system. The drill and slot design can produce more noise and vibrations, which can be transmitted through the brake pedal, causing discomfort for the driver and passengers.

Reduced Safety

Drilled and slotted rotors can reduce the overall safety of the vehicle’s braking system. Drilling and slotting designs can lead to faster wear of the brake pads, reducing their effectiveness and potentially increasing the vehicle’s stopping distance. A design with holes and grooves can more effectively cause the rotor to crack or warp, leading to brake failure.

Conclusion

We have gone through some advantages and disadvantages of drilled and slotted rotors. I hope this helps you decide on every necessary step with this type of rotor and to always be aware of the proper ways to maintain your car.

There are controversies in the secondary automotive market regarding the purpose of a throttle body spacer in your car. Is it really effective or not? We are sure that when considering increasing power or giving your car better performance or better fuel consumption, one of the things most drivers will encounter is installing a throttle body spacer. So, what is the purpose of a throttle body spacer? Everything will be clear in this article:

What does a throttle body spacer do in your car?

A throttle body spacer is essentially just a metal block that is placed between your intake system and the throttle body to provide better incoming airflow into your engine, which is supposed to increase performance and fuel consumption if you apply and install it correctly. In fact, the main function of the throttle body spacer is to increase the length of the intake manifold (by extending the distance between the rest of the intake and the throttle body inlet) and the volume of the incoming air surface. This will help your engine by more easily combining air and fuel. Almost all throttle body spacers are made of aluminum, so they are usually quite lightweight and will not add extra weight to your engine compartment. You can simply understand the throttle body spacer as a tool to increase the engine’s capacity to circulate airflow.

Normally, a throttle body spacer is not available in your car, so you might consider installing one, but is a throttle body spacer expensive?

How much does a throttle body spacer cost?

The good news is that it won’t be too expensive to buy a throttle body spacer. Currently, throttle body spacers are on sale for $50 to $150, which depends on your car model and the material of the part you choose. There are two types of throttle body spacers: one with a smooth inner surface, while the other has a rough surface. Most drivers assume that the rough surface creates a turbulent effect on the incoming airflow and provides better performance. We see that the price is very affordable. You don’t need to think too much before buying this part. With this price, is a throttle body spacer worth equipping your car with?

Is the throttle body spacer really effective for your engine?

Most of the time, the answer is “Yes.” A throttle body spacer is considered a tool to increase power, torque, horsepower, and fuel economy. It will help direct the airflow into the manifold to increase the volume entering the intake system. Power improvement is one of the main benefits of installing the throttle body spacer. The spacer will increase the air speed and cause an extension of atomization.

So, how much horsepower does a throttle body add? When equipped with a throttle body spacer, the average increase can be 7 to 15 horsepower and torque from 15 to 125 lb-ft depending on the model and with proper tuning and fuel octane rating. However, note that the spacer works best only for vehicles equipped with carburetors and vehicles with single-port fuel injection systems. Additionally, the spacer can increase the volume of the air space under the throttle body, which can help the car reach high RPM.

However, installing a throttle body spacer is sometimes still not a perfect solution for your engine. Although it is claimed that spacers will increase your engine’s power, some automotive experts analyze that adding a body spacer can decrease the quality of the idling process and possibly cause emissions.

How to install a throttle body spacer?

Let’s move on to this part to learn how to properly install a throttle body spacer:

A few tools you need before installing a spacer for your car:

• A socket wrench (7/16″, 7 mm or 10 mm)
• Screws
• Cleaning solutions
• O-ring
• Rags
• Protective glasses and gloves

After preparing all these tools, roll up your sleeves and carry out the process:

Step 1: Disconnect the electricity or the negative terminal of your car battery.

Step 2: Remove the air intake to start accessing the throttle body. You can do this by disconnecting the screws connecting the air intake manifold to the engine. If the intake has a clamp that needs to be removed, use pliers to loosen it.

Step 3: Use the socket wrench to disconnect all factory torque bolts (you can use the 10 mm wrench)

Step 4: Assemble a new spacer between the throttle body and the air intake system. In this step, use a screwdriver and a 10 mm socket to secure the spacer and tighten the bolts. Make sure all bolts are tightened before moving to the next step. NOTE: When installing the spacer, be sure to use Teflon tape to properly seal the threads.

Step 5: Reinstall the bolts firmly. After that, connect the negative terminal of your battery and start your vehicle.

Final thoughts

Above all, installing a throttle body spacer can probably alter the performance of your car’s fuel injection process, as it actually creates a bit more speed going from the throttle body to the intake system. However, sometimes, adding a spacer probably changes the optimization process of your car on certain models. Therefore, consult a professional or read the user manual carefully before installing this part.

In the world of automobiles, technological innovations follow one another at a frantic pace, making vehicles smarter and more functional. Among them, the Audi Q5, a luxury asset that fascinates with its splendor and impeccable technical operation, has particularly caught our attention. However, during its use, one warning light particularly intrigues us: the EPC light, which emits significant signals for your vehicle. Understanding its operation and knowing how to diagnose and resolve the errors it may indicate, as well as preventing future errors, will help you maximize the performance of your Audi Q5 and extend its lifespan.

EPC Light: Technical Operation

The EPC (Electronic Power Control) warning light on your Audi Q5 illuminates when your car detects a problem related to the engine control system. It is, in a way, an alert to inform you that there is a failure in the electronic power control system of your vehicle.

One of the reasons why the EPC light may come on is a faulty accelerator pedal sensor. This is crucial because it tells the car how much power it needs to generate. Never ignore this light.

Another possible cause is a problem with the throttle position sensor. In an Audi Q5, this sensor is associated with the accelerator pedal, and if this sensor fails, the EPC light may illuminate.

Furthermore, problems with the ignition coils can also trigger the EPC light. The ignition coils power the spark plugs, and if one of them is defective, it can lead to a loss of power and the illumination of the EPC light.

A malfunction of the engine control system is another reason why the EPC light may come on. This can involve issues such as engine overheating or a poor air-fuel mixture.

It is essential to note that when you see the EPC light on, it is recommended to avoid driving and take the vehicle to a professional for diagnosis. Ignoring this problem could lead to potentially serious damage to your vehicle.

Remember that today’s technologies can solve the problem more quickly and effectively. Specialized diagnostic equipment is capable of reading the error codes from your Audi Q5, providing an accurate and fast solution to your problem. Using these tools, a qualified technician can determine the cause of the issue and make the necessary repairs.

So, don’t wait any longer. As soon as the EPC light comes on, it’s a signal that your car needs to be examined by an automotive technology expert. This will ensure you get accurate and timely diagnostics to keep your Audi Q5 in perfect working order.

Diagnosing the EPC Light Error

Troubleshooting the EPC light error on an Audi Q5

The EPC light error can cause a series of problems that can affect the overall performance of your Audi Q5. At this point, it is crucial to adopt a methodical approach to correctly diagnose the error.

First, check if an unexpected engine shutdown has occurred. A sudden shutdown could indicate a failure of the engine control system, which could trigger the EPC light error. If this is the case, it is possible that a system reset may fix the problem.

Next, inspect the throttle position sensor. If the sensor is faulty or damaged, it could cause unexpected engine speed fluctuations, or even engine stalling, triggering the EPC light. If you are unsure how to undertake this step, do not hesitate to consult a professional.

Similarly, the accelerator sensor could be the culprit. A faulty accelerator sensor sends incorrect information to the computer, which controls the vehicle’s acceleration, which could trigger the EPC light error.

Another aspect to check is the ignition coil. The role of the ignition coil is to provide the necessary spark to ignite the fuel in the cylinders. If the ignition coil is defective, it could lead to irregular engine performance and the appearance of the EPC light.

Finally, do not ignore the possibility of a failure of the electronic control system itself. A faulty EPC system could, for example, restrict the vehicle’s acceleration capability or cause engine speed fluctuations, thus leading to the EPC error.

In summary, troubleshooting the EPC light error on an Audi Q5 requires methodical attention and careful analysis. Keep in mind that EPC errors can have multiple causes, which requires a systematic approach for their resolution. If you are not equipped or comfortable with diagnosing these problems, do not hesitate to consult a professional equipped with the necessary specialized tools to perform an accurate diagnosis.

Resolving EPC Light Errors

Following the importance of accurate and rapid diagnosis of the EPC warning light, let’s continue our dive into this technically enriching universe. It’s about understanding how to resolve EPC light errors on an Audi Q5 in a pragmatic manner.

One of the most serious problems that can be signaled by the EPC light is the unexpected engine shutdown. However, before using more radical means, a reset of the electronic power control system can sometimes be enough to resolve the problem. This can be done using specialized diagnostic software. If the reset does not solve the problem, then it is time to move to a more in-depth check.

When the system is reset and power is restored, it is recommended to check all elements of the system that can trigger the EPC light. This notably includes the throttle position sensor, the accelerator sensor, and the ignition coil, all of which have been identified as potential causes of EPC error.

A methodical approach is essential. Each component must be meticulously inspected to identify and resolve the exact problem. A professional service equipped with the appropriate diagnostic equipment is often the best option for this step, as the problem can be resolved quickly and accurately.

It is important to note that the electronic control system itself may be at fault. If each component has been tested and is in good working order, then the electronic power management system could be the cause of the EPC error. This requires professional diagnosis and repair, as it takes a certain technical expertise to repair this complex component of the car.

Throughout the troubleshooting process, it is absolutely necessary to preserve the integrity of the vehicle and avoid any further deterioration. For this reason, it is recommended to call upon a professional to resolve EPC errors.

Maintaining a methodical approach in searching for problems and their resolution is crucial. The complex technology that supports each Audi Q5 allows it to deliver optimal performance. However, this requires rigorous maintenance and accurate diagnostics to ensure the proper functioning of all systems. Thus, when it comes to resolving EPC light errors, the most important aspect remains trusting a professional and thorough diagnosis, which will allow you to identify, understand, and resolve problems with precision and efficiency.

Preventing Future EPC Light Errors

Now that we have covered the main aspects of the EPC warning light malfunction, the question remains: how can we prevent this light from illuminating in the future? EPC errors cannot be completely eliminated, as they are generally a sign of a potential underlying problem. However, following preventive measures can greatly decrease the likelihood of having to deal with these errors.

First and foremost, regular maintenance of your Audi Q5 is essential. Well-scheduled maintenance performed by qualified technicians can help identify potential problems before they trigger the EPC light. This involves inspecting critical elements such as the ignition system, the accelerator and throttle position sensors.

Furthermore, familiarizing yourself with the owner’s manual is an essential step. The owner’s manual provides access to valuable information regarding vehicle maintenance and the manufacturer’s recommended maintenance intervals. Adhering to these schedules ensures that the vehicle operates as intended and minimizes the occurrence of an EPC warning.

Driving habits must also be taken into account. Aggressive behaviors, such as hard acceleration or high-speed driving, can contribute to premature wear of the car’s components and cause EPC errors. Driving cautiously and responsibly can help mitigate these risks.

Lastly, do not neglect the importance of an accurate diagnosis if the EPC light illuminates. The failures manifested by the EPC light illumination can be related to a multitude of causes. Only an accurate diagnosis can identify the real cause and ensure its correct resolution to prevent the problem from recurring.

In short, preventing EPC errors requires a combination of regular maintenance, knowledge of the vehicle, cautious driving, and accurate diagnostics when the light appears. By adopting these practices, you can keep your Audi Q5 in excellent condition and minimize the likelihood of future EPC errors.

Thus, the EPC light, although often overlooked, can be a valuable indicator of your Audi Q5’s health. Through a thorough understanding of its technical operation, accurate diagnosis of the errors it signals, effective troubleshooting, and proactive prevention of future errors, we can significantly improve the efficiency of our Audi Q5. Strengthening our knowledge and expertise in these areas is essential to preserve and extend the life of our vehicle. As automotive technology continues to evolve, we must adapt and update our skills to keep pace with these innovations and maintain our vehicles in perfect working order.

The hottest days of summer are over, yet you notice that your car’s air conditioner is running all the time or constantly turning on and off. If it’s not due to the weather, the air conditioning compressor stays on all the time, which means there is a problem with the unit.

If the issue is not resolved as quickly as possible, you will face a staggering electricity bill, and your air conditioner will undergo additional wear and tear due to unnecessary overworking.

It should be noted that the compressor has the second highest failure rate among all components of the air conditioning system. Discover the possible reasons why AC compressors stay on permanently and how to fix this common maintenance issue.

What is the purpose of an AC compressor?

The compressor is the component that powers the air conditioning unit.

When you turn on the air conditioner, the compressor compresses and heats the refrigerant, a special fluid mixture. This compressed and hot refrigerant is then sent through the condenser to cool down.

The refrigerant then passes through the dryer to remove contaminants. Once purified, the compressed refrigerant goes through the expansion valve, where it is relieved of its pressure. After passing through the evaporator, the refrigerant is now super clean, dry, and cold.

To create the bursts of cold air coming from your car’s air conditioner, air is sent through this newly cold refrigerant in the compressor tank to cool down, then blown through the fans.

Why does an AC compressor turn on and off?

It is normal for your car’s air conditioning compressor to turn on and off. For example, on the hottest days, the more you set your air conditioning to a cool level, the more the compressor has to work to maintain the desired temperature.

Once the desired temperature is reached, the air conditioning compressor may stop for a while until there is a change in your car’s temperature. Thus, the air conditioning system turning on and off is not a problem, but the frequency of the cycles can indicate issues.

An example of such abnormal cycling frequency is that instead of turning on and off, the AC compressor stays on all the time.

AC compressor stays on all the time – Common causes

Automatic temperature control

If automatic air conditioning is enabled, the air conditioning compressor will run continuously, summer and winter, if the automatic air conditioning is on a setting other than off.

Low refrigerant level

If the amount of refrigerant in the air conditioning compressor tank is reduced, probably due to a leak in the coils, the compressor might not have enough refrigerant to operate the air conditioning effectively. Due to this inefficiency, the AC compressor will have to work harder than usual.

In this case, you will likely need a professional to find and repair the leak and restore the correct refrigerant level.

Leak detection

Leaks most often occur at the O-rings, seals, and worn pipes of the air conditioning system, followed by leaks in a pinhole of the condenser and evaporator, and leaks in the compressor shaft seal.

To detect leaks, add refrigerant to restore it to the correct level, then turn on the air conditioner. The simplest but most effective method is to spray soapy water on the suspected areas and watch for bubbles.

If a leak occurs at the O-rings, seals, or pipes, simply replacing them will solve the problem. However, if the issue is from a leak in the condenser or evaporator or the compressor shaft seal, the repair is costly and more tedious and should be done by a professional.

Dirty or clogged condenser

A condenser filled with dirt and debris will not work as effectively as usual to cool the compressed and hot refrigerant passing through it, forcing the air conditioning compressor to overload.

Dirty evaporator coil

Similar to the condenser, the evaporator coil can be covered with dirt and debris, hindering its drying process and the overall cooling process of the system, thus forcing the air conditioning compressor to work harder to cool the inside of your car.

Watch more:

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How much to replace an AC compressor?

If you are experiencing issues with your air conditioning compressor without knowing the exact reason, it is best to have it repaired. Only EPA-certified mechanics can service mobile air conditioning systems.

You might be wondering how much it costs to replace an air conditioning compressor. The average cost for replacing an air conditioning compressor is between $500 and $700 depending on the car in question. Labor costs alone are estimated at just over $200.

Rest assured, an air conditioning compressor typically lasts 8 to 10 years, which generally corresponds to the length of time an average car owner would keep their car.

A leaking tire can ruin beautiful trips in no time. Familiarizing yourself with the repair process to prevent a tire from leaking around the rim can be very helpful.

There has been a lot of progress in the field of tires, from traditional vehicles to the modern era. From tube tires to tubeless tires, manufacturers have strived to make our long journeys smooth.

Tubeless tires are the most advanced technology on the market. These tires hold air longer and the grip is also perfect. One of the biggest dilemmas related to tires is that of leaks.

How to know if your car tire is leaking?

The tire doesn’t work “alone,” you might find that even if it’s not leaking, it’s still flat. So there is a very simple way to check if the tire is leaking around the rim or not. Let us show you how to do it!

Get a generic spray bottle. Then prepare a liquid mixture including dish soap with water, mix well and put it in the bottle. The ratio is about 1 part soap to 4 parts water.

The next step is to inflate the tire to the valve caps and also spray the solution on the valve end so you can see if the valve itself is leaking.

If you see soap bubbles forming somewhere, there is a leak. For a small leak, it takes 10 to 20 minutes to notice the change in the tire and the soap bubbles. This method is simple for checking your tires at home and you can do it without experience.

Step-by-step process to repair tire air leaks around the rim

Repairing a leaking tire is not as complex as it seems. The changing process is much easier if you have a proper equipment kit with you.

You may need to consult a mechanic to repair tube tires. Repairing tubeless tires is easy thanks to special techniques and equipment.

Let’s review the repair process to prevent a tire from leaking around a car’s rim.

1. Remove the tire and start the procedure

The first step to prevent a tire from leaking around the rim is to remove the tire and place it on a flat surface. Make sure the air inlet valve is not facing the ground.

Check if there is a visible leak or hole. It will be easier to treat the leak on the outside than the tire leaking around the rim.

Fill the tire and rim with water. The leak area will be identified by bubbles from an air leak. Check both sides of the tire with plain or soapy water.

2. Release the air from the valve

Locate the leak area on the tire and mark it accordingly. Deflate the tire by pressing the valve inlet with a pin. It is essential to deflate the tire before treating it.

There is also a tool to remove the valves in the car’s equipment kit. Make sure the leaking side of the tire and rim is visible for treatment. That’s all you need to do for the second step of repairing a rim leak.

3. Release the tire-rim attachment

The tire and rim are secured with a seal. The air inside the tire tightens the seal. You may need something heavy to release the attachment. According to expert maintenance advice, a heavy hammer and a wooden board will do the job perfectly.

It is essential to remove the tire from the rim if the problem is due to tire leaks around the rim. Hit the board with the hammer after bringing it closer to the rim seal.

4. Clean the edges and repair

The final step to prevent a tire from leaking around the rim is to clean the edges of the tire with a cloth after detaching the seal. It is easy to press the removed tire with your hands and clean it accordingly.

Put some repair solution on the leak and refill the air. While the air is circulating in the tire, make sure to position the tire and rim appropriately. You can check the tire leak again with water.

How much does a rim leak repair cost?

Most people who ask how to prevent a tire from leaking around the rim wonder how much it costs to repair the leak. If it’s the rims, then the wheels are struggling.

At the garage, the repairer will dismount the tire, clean the rim inside, then apply the anti-bead product and remount the tire. They also change the valve stem for you. The total cost is about $20 to $30 per wheel.

The problem is that, instead of solving the problem from the rim, you might consider it a bad bead or something that will charge you a lot of money to throw sealant on the problem.

Your car will be fine for a week and the leak will return to what it was before. Also, some shops might just grab something from the store and smooth it out.

They try to smooth the surface where there was a leak, then apply a bunch of bead sealants. Again, the problem is not completely solved.

Final words

This is about how to prevent a tire from leaking around the rim. Follow these essential tips and continue your journey flawlessly on the roads. You can do it yourself at home or if you’re not sure whether you can do it or not.

Take your car to the trusted garage, tell them you have a slow leak on the tire, and ask them to check the rim. So everything will be on the right track!

If you’re like most people, you probably know very little about your car’s air/fuel ratio sensor. But what if I told you that this small piece of equipment is responsible for ensuring your engine runs properly and efficiently?

Let’s look at what an air-fuel ratio sensor is, where it’s located, the common symptoms of failure, and how much it will cost to replace. It’s going to be fun!

What is an Air-Fuel Ratio Sensor?

An air-fuel ratio sensor (or air-fuel sensor) is a simple device found in your vehicle’s engine. It constantly measures the amount of oxygen in your exhaust gases and sends this information back to your ECU (your car’s central computer).

This allows your engine to know if it needs to run richer, leaner, optimize fuel economy, or if you like a certain SPEED – and your car has this feature – your ECU can even optimize performance.

Essentially, you’ll need a properly functioning air-fuel sensor to maintain a healthy engine. This is because the engineers who created the engine designed it to operate at optimal air/fuel levels.

If the ratio changes too much in one direction or the other, the sensor will instruct the ECU to turn on a check engine light on your dashboard. This will “weaken” your engine so you can drive it to your nearest auto mechanic to fix the problem. This might sound extreme, but this way, you’ll still have a car at the end of the day.

Where is it located?

The air-fuel ratio sensor is located either in the exhaust manifold or in the front exhaust pipe. It measures the amount of air in your exhaust gases and uses this information to determine your current air-fuel ratio.

Symptoms of a Bad Air-Fuel Ratio Sensor

#1 – Rough Idle

If, for some reason, you notice your engine’s RPM increasing, then decreasing, then sputtering a bit, then returning to normal, you might be experiencing a rough idle. You might also feel it through the floor when you’re sitting in the car with the engine running and the vehicle in “Park.”

It might just feel like a “tapping” or intermittent rumbling for no apparent reason. This could be a potential symptom of a bad air/fuel sensor.

#2 – Engine Ping

If your car makes a metallic noise, almost a rattling sound, when you accelerate from a stop and it hasn’t always done this, the air-fuel sensor might be failing. Sometimes called “spark knock,” engine ping is the result of an improper combustion cycle.

If you don’t have enough air or too much air in your air-fuel mixture, you could end up with incomplete combustion. This will release harmful gases into the atmosphere that none of us want to breathe.

#3 – Poor Gas Mileage

If you’re like me, you pay attention to how far a tank of gas can take you. The thirstier the car, the more I pay attention to how much money I’m spending.

For example, I know that my Toyota Sequoia, driven at 5,200 feet above sea level (as I drive), will average about 16 to 17 MPG. If I suddenly saw it drop to 12 MPG and my habits hadn’t changed much, I might check the air-fuel ratio sensor for an issue.

You can get a scanner that plugs into your OBD 1 or 2 port and it will tell you the kind of codes your engine is throwing, which could be much cheaper than taking the car to your mechanic. Or, you can go to the dealership and they will tell you exactly what’s wrong, then fix the problem while you wait.

#4 – Increased Exhaust Emissions

If you notice your car smoking a lot on startup, there’s a change in smell from your exhaust, or it seems like there’s a bit more smoke than usual coming out, take your car to the mechanic. They will be able to determine if your air-fuel sensor is faulty and if you’re getting incomplete combustion.

Alternatively, if you need to register your car or take a new emissions test, you’ll need to go to your state agency to have this measured. If you fail the test, but just passed it last year, you might have a faulty air-fuel sensor.

Related Fault Codes: P0131, P0132, P0133, P0134, P0135, P0170.

#5 – Decreased Engine Power

You’re driving and you’re going to pass a semi-truck, but suddenly you find it’s taking longer than usual. You check the back seat, and there’s no extra equipment inside, and you don’t have a pen of squealing pigs in the trunk – everything should be fine, right? Wrong.

You seem to have a sudden drop in engine power, which is a potential symptom of a bad air-fuel sensor. Take the car to your favorite repair shop to have it checked. It’s a fairly simple and inexpensive fix if you take care of it quickly. This way, you can avoid further problems later.

What Causes Sensor Failure?

As is the case with most other sensors in your vehicle, fuel, grime, dirt, debris, and physical damage can all negatively impact your air-fuel sensor’s ability to properly transmit information to your ECU.

Unfortunately, this isn’t something easy to avoid because the sensor lives in your exhaust system, so you’re not going to take it out and clean it all the time (I don’t know anyone who would). So, when it goes bad, replace it and move on. At least, that’s what I recommend.

Can You Drive with a Faulty Air-Fuel Sensor?

Yes, you can drive with a faulty air-fuel sensor, but we don’t recommend driving with a check engine light on for very long. It could just be your air-fuel sensor, but it could also be a catastrophic engine failure, and the average driver won’t know the difference.

So, if you see the check engine light on, take it to a mechanic. If they say it’s a faulty sensor, just ask them to replace it if you can afford it. Otherwise, try to limit your driving to only necessary trips.

Air-Fuel Sensor vs. Oxygen Sensor

Both have very similar purposes. The only difference is that a proper air-fuel ratio sensor reads a much wider range of inputs than the conventional O2 sensor. This is why it’s sometimes called a “wideband O2 sensor” instead of an air-fuel ratio sensor.

If you’re considering tuning your car, you might want to look into a wideband O2 sensor instead of the conventional method. This data can then be displayed via an aftermarket air/fuel ratio gauge mounted inside your car. More information means more power.

All of this depends on your mechanic’s rate and the type of car you own. Generally, a more expensive car = more expensive parts = a more expensive repair. Expect to pay between $50 and $200 for this repair.

Do you have oil stains in your driveway, or an engine block that leaks when you look under your vehicle? Sorry, very bad news: you might have a rear main seal leak. Few words from a mechanic will stop all drivers in their tracks faster than “You have a rear main seal leak!”

A rear main seal leak is one of the worst things that can happen to any vehicle, because the rear main seal is very difficult to access and requires disassembling a large part of your engine.

On most modern engines, seal failure is due to a condition inside the engine or a component connected to the rear of the engine and is more common in older cars.

For many drivers, the announcement of such a problem means it might be time to buy a new vehicle, as repairing the rear main seal usually costs more than the value of vehicles old enough to develop such leaks.

Replacing a rear main seal is one of the most dreaded, labor-intensive, and expensive tasks you can perform on your car, after replacing head gaskets or rebuilding your transmission. It can easily cost you between $800 and $1,200 at a mechanic.

Furthermore, there are no shortcuts or quick fixes if the seal has expired. A replacement is not something you’ll want to undertake yourself, and even a seasoned mechanic might struggle with it because it’s in an extremely difficult position.

That said, a proper diagnosis will save you a lot of money by having a mechanic check if your current oil leak situation is indeed a rear main seal leak. Plus, in some mild cases, you can spend less than $20 to fix the issue.

Read on to learn everything you need to know about the rear main seal leak, including how it works, the symptoms and causes of a rear main seal leak, how to troubleshoot, and what to do.

What is the purpose of a rear main seal?

The rear main seal is designed to prevent oil leaks between the block and the crankshaft. Originally, manufacturers intended rear seals to last the lifetime of a vehicle, so no replacement would be needed, unlike many other engine components under the hood that need replacing every few years.

It is located just outside your rear main bearing, which supports your engine’s crankshaft in your engine. These bearings support the majority of your engine’s load and play a crucial role in converting the axial motion of your piston into the rotational motion of the crankshaft.

The main bearings achieve this by absorbing the axial load from the piston pushed down by combustion, while allowing the crankshaft to rotate.

To accomplish this task, these bearings must be incredibly smooth and remain well-lubricated by your engine oil. In other words, the correct oil for your engine is extremely important for creating the optimal conditions allowing the main bearings to do their job without excessive wear.

This oil must also be contained within your engine so that everything remains constantly lubricated, and that’s exactly where the rear main seal comes in. The rear main seal allows the crankshaft to exit the engine block so it can bolt to the flywheel or flexplate and transfer its energy into the transmission.

The rear main seal also holds the engine oil and keeps it inside your engine where it can keep your main bearings lubricated.

Rear Main Seal Repair Cost

The average cost to repair a leaking rear main seal is between $800 and $1,200. In rare cases, some drivers have reported getting quotes as high as $2,500 on certain vehicles.

Is a Rear Main Seal Leak Serious?

Rapid Leak and Permanent Engine Damage

Driving with a rear main seal leak is dangerous due to the high possibility of a very rapid leak. A rapid leak will cause the engine oil level to drop very quickly to dangerous levels, which can lead to permanent engine damage.

The possibility of a rapid leak is very likely, as the rear main seal is in a location that receives a lot of oil and has the additional wear of the crankshaft spinning inside it.

If the seal tears or cracks, even slightly, the rotation of the crankshaft can cause a very rapid tearing of the seal, leading to a rapid leak.

A quick side note is that when a vehicle is parked on a slope, an oil leak is bound to worsen much more quickly. Therefore, if your driveway is built on a slope, park your car on the flat street in front of your house until the issue is resolved.

On vehicles with a manual transmission, the clutch disc can become soaked in oil if you let a leak persist for too long.

High Risk of Leak

Some seals and gaskets in your engine never cause major leaks due to their design or because they are not subjected to high oil pressure in the engine.

In contrast, the rear main seal is an engine component very prone to developing a leak. This is because it is subjected to high oil pressure since it is right next to the rear main bearing as well as the rotating crankshaft, which constantly wears against the inside of the seal.

No matter how often you change your oil, the rotating metal crankshaft will eventually wear the seal enough to cause a leak.

Expensive Repair and Replacement

As mentioned earlier, inspecting and replacing the rear main seal requires disassembling a large part of your engine. Therefore, labor costs would be very high, and of course, if you’re not a professional DIYer, it would be a very complicated project.

The problem comes from the location of the rear main seal. It is located at the rear of the engine and seals the crankshaft where it exits the engine. The flywheel or flexplate of your vehicle is then bolted to the crankshaft flange, sandwiching your rear main seal between your engine and your transmission.

To replace the seal, either the engine or the transmission will need to be removed. Once one of them is removed, the oil pan must also come out, so this maintenance work is extremely labor-intensive.

Types of Rear Main Seal

The majority of older vehicle models use the rope or wick seal, with a small number using split seals. Meanwhile, newer models use the one-piece seal for improved performance.

Rope seals and split seals are much more universal and can work on almost any engine, while one-piece seals are less prone to leaking.

Rope or Wick Seal

Named for its resemblance to rope and lamp wicks, this seal is designed to withstand the impacts of intense crankshaft rotations and the friction caused by temperature fluctuations.

Therefore, a rope/wick seal can fail in two ways: shrinking in cold weather or expanding in hot weather. The seal is lubricated to prevent drying out with a small amount of oil, which also keeps it in place next to the crankshaft.

In modern cars, the new design of rope seals doesn’t have the resilience of the old version when it comes to preventing oil leaks.

According to many professionals and specialists, such a design change is due to stricter environmental regulations, which restricted the use of materials like asbestos.

Such regulations forced manufacturers to cut costs to reduce the production cost of the rear main seal. As a result, most modern rope/wick seals are vulnerable to contact with the crankshaft and engine RPM and therefore must match your engine’s RPM requirements.

To avoid bad rope/wick seal replacements, only buy from reputable parts suppliers, and it’s best to check reviews on Amazon before making a purchase.

Neoprene or Split Seal

Made of rubber-like material, the split seal has a lip shape and is installed in one direction to prevent oil from passing through. Although effective for this purpose, neoprene seals are just as vulnerable to leaks as rope/wick seals.

One-Piece Seal

One-piece seals are the most difficult to maintain and don’t have the universality of rope seals and split seals. With its unique round design, the one-piece seal only works on specially manufactured crankshafts.

Therefore, you cannot install one-piece seals on older engines without replacing the crankshaft.

Symptoms of Rear Main Seal Leak

The problem can be difficult to identify because the parts in question are relatively unknown to most car owners. The hard-to-reach location of the rear main seal shows that this part of the vehicle was never really intended to be replaced during the car’s ownership period.

How to tell if the rear main seal is leaking? The main symptom of a rear main seal leak is when your car starts leaving black spots on your driveway or parking spot.

Another sign is aggressive oil loss: you find yourself having to top up oil more frequently, despite the same routes and driving conditions. At the start of a leak, the oil loss may not be fast enough for black spots to appear where the vehicle is parked.

While you might see an oil spot in your driveway overnight, the leak might not be fast enough to leave its mark on the supermarket parking lot during your grocery run. Therefore, you may need to perform tests to determine if you are losing oil or not.

Rear Main Seal Leak Causes

There are many causes of rear main seal leak. Any of the following conditions can cause your rear main seal to leak because they can deform or deteriorate the seal.

Worn Main Bearings

If your vehicle has worn main bearings, the crankshaft is able to move excessively inside the bearings, which will stretch and displace the rear main seal while the engine is running. This will allow oil to flow past the seal.

It is difficult to know if your engine has worn main bearings without removing many components.

If this is the cause, you are likely looking at a full engine rebuild, which would involve removing the engine and replacing many other components in addition to the rear main seal itself.

Clogged or Blocked PCV System

Most rear main seals have a lip that rests on the shaft. Pressure inside the crankcase will push the lip against the shaft. Too much pressure will eventually cause the lip to swell and allow oil to pass.

So when will there be too much pressure? If the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system is blocked, it will increase pressures inside the crankshaft and push the seal out.

Otherwise, if the engine is supercharged or turbocharged, excessive blow-by from worn or damaged piston rings can lead to increased crankcase pressure, which can also damage the rear main seal, causing a leak.

Engine Oil Condition

Another frequent cause could be a low oil level or using the wrong type of oil. Most oils contain chemicals in their additives that condition the engine seals. If the oil isn’t changed regularly, the seal will deteriorate.

The sealing conditions deplete over time, just like the additives present in the oil. The lip that rests on the crankshaft will become stiff and will no longer be able to seal against the crankshaft.

Crankshaft Condition

Rear main seals have a lip that rests directly on the crankshaft. Therefore, the condition of the surfaces the rear main seal rests on