A vehicle’s engine has many components that perform different functions. However, none of these parts would function without a drive belt. There are different types of car belts, and their function is to keep the engine running by transferring power to various parts.

To do this, they have constant friction with several pulleys. For this reason, a loose or damaged belt affects the performance of the associated engine component.

Types of Car Belts: How Many Belts Does a Car Have?

How many belts are in a car? Several types, and we will discuss some of the most common ones. Here is a brief discussion of standard belts in a car and how they work.

1. Timing Belts

Your timing belt is probably the most important belt you have. It enables combustion inside the engine and ensures everything is timed accurately.

Also known as a Gilmer belt and camshaft drive belt, the role of a timing belt is to help the crankshaft turn the camshaft. The rubber belt opens and closes the engine valves in sync with the pistons.

In modern vehicles, this belt has replaced the timing chain. Timing belt failure causes less damage to pistons and valves than the chain.

2. Accessory Belts

Accessory belts come next. So, what does the term “accessory” actually mean?

It indicates that the purpose of these belts is to power the auxiliary parts that need to be powered to operate.

Without the belt, the auxiliary units will not work at all, and sooner or later, your engine will lose power. Here are the two types of accessory belts you might want to take a look at!

V-Belts (Drive Belts)

Another type of car belts, one of the oldest accessory belts, the V-belt was likely developed on vintage V8 pushrod engines. In order to power various components needed for the engine to function properly, these belts had to be created.

Originating from the crankshaft, they run through various components, including the alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, and water pump, and provide them with the necessary energy to operate. They are mainly found on older cars.

These belts hardly slip from their path, and the failure of one belt does not affect all engine functions. However, all V-belts wear out almost simultaneously.

So you may need to replace them all at the same time. Fluid contamination and regular wear are the main reasons for the malfunction of these belts.

Serpentine Belts

A long, snake-like belt runs through all the engine components and powers them. It is the alternative to multiple V-belts in newer cars. The belt is a standard in modern vehicles.

Since a single belt powers almost all the engine accessories, multiple components will be affected if the belt becomes loose or is damaged. However, it is easy to replace, and you only have to spend on a single belt.

A failing serpentine belt creates a squealing or screeching noise. If it fails, the entire engine may stop working.

Fan Belts

To be powered, the cooling system requires a belt. The serpentine belt drives it in some engines. It is driven by the fan belt in other engines. The following components of the cooling system can be powered by it:

• Water pump
• Fan
• Air conditioning

A functioning fan belt performs the following operations by driving the cooling system:

• Cooling a radiator
• Pumping coolant throughout the engine

Your engine will no longer be cooled if the fan belt breaks. As a result, the engine will overheat, possibly requiring costly repairs. So it seems wise to check the fan belt during regular inspections.

Drive Belt vs. Serpentine Belt

Among all types of car belts, there is no difference between a drive belt and a serpentine belt. Most cars have one or two drive belts. It is also called a serpentine belt when there is only one drive belt in a car.

Whether it’s a drive belt or a serpentine belt, it is part of the accessories that drive a car’s engine. The rubber component lasts a long time, between 40,000 and 70,000 miles.

However, it is not uncommon to see them go over 100,000 miles.

FAQ on Types of Car Belts

1. Can I install a timing belt at home?

Installing the timing belt is not something you can perform immediately. Even experienced technicians do not allow unqualified apprentices to cause damage when changing timing belts.

The engine will not be timed accurately even if the timing is slightly off by a few millimeters during the installation of the timing belt, which would result in engine damage.

Depending on the severity of your mistake, the valves will be broken. Therefore, if you do not have the training and skills to perform this task, do not attempt it at home.

However, changing a serpentine or V-belt is a simple task that anyone can accomplish without risk. Just make sure to remove the old belt and attach the new one in the same way.

2. When should these types of car belts be changed?

The belts in your automobile need to be updated, like all other components. It makes no difference if you use a timing belt, serpentine belt, or V-belt.

Every belt has a chance of breaking, especially the cheaper options made by some lesser-known companies.

To be more precise, how many miles do they last? Well, it depends a lot on the age of the belt.

As you may already know, the rubber used to make the belts hardens over time. As a result, belts can break even if they are not overly worn.

This is also crucial because the teeth keep the timing belt in the correct position. The timing will be disrupted if the belt jumps, which could damage the engine. Therefore, pay close attention to these timing belt components.

Additionally, at 60,000 miles, accessory belts should be changed. Even if the belt breaks, you will not damage the engine, so its replacement is not critical.

However, the vehicle will eventually shut down. In the worst-case scenario, it may potentially overheat. Nevertheless, it is advisable to ensure it is changed as soon as possible.

3. How much does it cost to change a car belt?

Timing belts will be our first mention. In terms of cost, these belts are the most expensive to replace.

The component itself is reasonably priced and can be obtained for between $50 and $100. However, labor is costly, and the total cost of labor and components for a timing belt repair can range from $400 to $600.

On the other hand, serpentine belts are easier to change and cost less than $300 (labor and components).

4. What happens if you don’t change these belts on cars?

Let’s take a look at what could happen if you don’t change the different types of car belts in your vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the timing belt controls the engine timing. As a result, if the belt is broken or breaks.

The timing will be disrupted, and your engine will most likely suffer engine damage. Because these timing belt engines are interference engines.

If a belt breaks in a non-interference engine, the potential damage is minimal. What exactly are non-interference engines?

They are the engines that do not use an overhead camshaft mechanism. Specifically, pushrod V8 engines. Because they are chain-driven and non-interference, they are largely damage-proof in such situations.

Watch this video by Scotty Kilmer to learn more about belt squeal, squeaking belt, belt noise, and drive belt replacement!

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Q-iiIcP7ODA%3Ffeature%3Doembed

Final Words

Ultimately, these are common types of car belts you might want to recognize today.

The health and operation of the engine largely depend on the condition of these belts. So don’t forget each of them and their functions to use them in the best way possible.

Overall, timing belts, V-belts, and serpentine belts are all common. The timing belt drives the engine, while serpentine and V-belts power accessories such as the air conditioning system, water pump, alternator, and other vital parts needed for the vehicle to operate. As simple as that!

Plug-in hybrid electric vehicles, also called plug-ins or PHEVs, are the right choice for many drivers for much of this decade, until the number of public charging stations increases, the value of batteries improves, and the overall prices of pure battery electric vehicles drop.

Half of our favorite plug-ins travel at least 30 miles, roughly the length of an average round trip commute in the United States, according to the Bureau of Transportation Statistics. The others get you to work and back. None of them will leave you stranded because they have an engine and a gas tank.

One in Five Electrified Vehicles Was a Plug-in Last Year

Sometimes, statistics on “electric cars” can be tricky. Do they include plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEV) or only battery electric vehicles (BEV)? It goes both ways. Last year, 64,300 plug-in hybrid vehicles were sold in the United States, compared to 213,000 battery-only cars, according to Pew Research data. Plug-ins also accounted for one-fifth of all electric vehicle sales last year, according to MotorIntelligence.

PHEV sales have halved since 2018, but Covid-19 played a role and it’s hard to draw definitive conclusions: the entire car market decreased by 23% in 2020. The format has always been a transition to battery electric vehicles, which have gradually increased their range as technology improves. General Motors, for its part, doesn’t even offer a PHEV since it killed the Volt in 2019: it’s betting on pure electric vehicles and its new Ultium modular battery system. The entire electrified segment, including PHEVs, still only represents 2% of new car sales in the United States, but 10 million of them are now on the world’s roads.

Toyota and Lexus, its luxury division, capture a significant share of alternative propulsion vehicle sales: 16 of the 30 vehicles are offered as hybrids or plug-ins, including the Mirai, its only hydrogen fuel cell electric vehicle. These vehicles also accounted for 24% of Toyota’s sales for the first nine months of 2021. Toyota offers two models with both hybrid and plug-in variants: the Prius and the RAV4. Just under half of Prius sales were plug-ins and one-fifth of RAV4s were plug-ins.

Why Plug-ins Make Sense

Many cars available today can be purchased in PHEV versions, which eliminates legitimate concerns about range anxiety and the availability of public charging. A shorter electric range, between 18 and 42 miles, is acceptable when there are still an additional 300 to 600 miles available with the gasoline engine. For people making short trips, the gasoline engine might only be used for longer weekend getaways.

All plug-ins can benefit from at least a portion of the available federal income tax credit, up to $7,500. The credit is based on the battery size and varies considerably among PHEVs. A vehicle with a 16.0 kilowatt-hour battery is eligible for the full $7,500 credit.

The Plug-In’s Electric Motor Acts as a Turbocharger

An electric motor develops maximum power (torque) at a much lower RPM than its companion gasoline engine. Even when the car switches to gasoline mode, the battery still has enough power for the electric motor to act as a booster, essentially a turbocharger. While the electric motor and lithium-ion battery are meant to improve mpg, they also go from 0 to 60 mph a second or two faster. Toyota’s RAV4 Prime (what it calls the PHEV version) takes 5.7 seconds, 2 seconds less than the gasoline-engine RAV4.

Below are 10 relatively popular PHEV choices, ranging from entry-level to full luxury. They are sorted by battery range. Drivers who want a transition vehicle to a fully electric future should strive to perform most daily driving tasks without waking the gasoline engine. This means battery range should play a significant role in the purchase decision.

Three of our favorites travel at least 500 miles combined, battery engine and gasoline engine. The cars below are 2021 models unless otherwise noted. To learn more about plug-ins, check out the best plug-in hybrids for 2021 in Forbes Wheels reviews.

Honda Clarity Plug-In Hybrid, 48 miles EV

The battery-only version of the Clarity (discontinued last year) was a limited-range electric vehicle, but the PHEV has a lot to recommend, including 48 electric miles thanks to its 17 kilowatt-hour battery. The 1.5-liter four-cylinder (which rarely drives the wheels) combines with a robust electric motor to produce a combined 212 horsepower and a decent 8.1-second zero-to-60 time. Owners praise the comfort and ride quality, even if the rear bench could be larger. The $33,400 Clarity benefits from the full $7,500 credit.

Toyota RAV4 Prime, 42 miles

Here’s what a plug-in should be: the $38,500 PHEV version of the RAV4, with an 18.1 kilowatt-hour battery, 42 miles of EV range, 600 miles total. It’s an impressive ride. Some critics claim the actual range is better than that. There are also 302 combined horsepower in this RAV4, making it the fastest four-door Toyota. Only the Supra has faster acceleration. The RAV4 Prime benefits from the full $7,500 tax credit. The top-tier XSE model ($41,675) offers many useful features, including 19-inch wheels, paddle shifters, and some safety equipment. There have also been a few improvements to the $28,220 Prius Prime sedan, which now has 25 miles of EV range. But it’s a pokier beast, with a 121 horsepower powertrain. The $28,220 Prius Prime is eligible for a $4,502 federal income tax credit. If there’s one plug-in you buy, make it the RAV4 Prime.

Ford Escape Plug-In Hybrid, 37 miles

Toyota produced the first hybrids Americans could buy and Ford launched the first American car with the Escape in 2004. They then proved themselves as taxis on New York’s potholed streets. The Escape PHEV ($34,755, with a $6,843 credit) uses a 2.5-liter four-cylinder engine coupled with an electric motor for a total output of 221 horsepower. The electric range is 37 miles (530 total) via a 14.4 kilowatt-hour battery. There is no all-wheel-drive version. It’s worth upgrading to the $38,000 SEL version, which adds heated synthetic leather front seats with power adjustment for the driver, convenience and cold weather packages, parking sensors, and fog lights. The Co-Pilot360 Assist+ package adds adaptive cruise control.

Chrysler Pacifica Plug-In Hybrid Minivan, 32 miles

The $39,995 Pacifica remains the only American PHEV minivan, although the Toyota Sienna is now only available as a hybrid. The electric range via a 16 kilowatt-hour battery is 32 miles (566 total). A drawback of the PHEV version is that the company’s famous Stow ‘n Go seats are not available in the second row (which is equipped with captain’s chairs). It’s a large vehicle that needs the 260 horsepower it gets from a 3.6-liter V-6 (the same as the standard Pacifica) with two electric motors. For a grocery getter, the 7.4-second zero-to-60 time isn’t bad. The cargo space – critical in a minivan – is 87.5 cubic feet if the third row is down.

Hyundai Santa Fe Plug-In Hybrid, 30 miles

Good news for Santa Fe buyers: the 2022 model has a 13.8 kilowatt-hour battery, giving it a $6,587 tax credit. Apply that, and it means the PHEV is actually cheaper than the hybrid version. The 2022 Santa Fe starts at $40,535, although savvy buyers might want to look at the Limited. The PHEV’s 1.6-liter four-cylinder producing 177 horsepower is linked to a 90-horsepower electric motor for 260 combined horsepower. The electric range is 30 miles, 440 total. The Limited version increases the price to $46,545 but adds useful features such as leather seats, a 360-degree camera, and an eight-inch infotainment screen with a 12.3-inch digital gauge cluster.

Kia Niro Plug-In Hybrid, 26 miles

Starting at $30,765 (with a $4,543 credit), the Niro is one of the most affordable PHEVs. The EV range is 26 miles via an 8.9 kilowatt-hour power, with a very good total of 560 miles. The 1.6-liter four-cylinder electric motor provides a modest 139 horsepower via a six-speed automatic transmission. Kia also makes an Optima PHEV, $37,315 in the only EX version (with a $4,919 credit). With a 10 kilowatt-hour battery, the electric range is slightly higher, 28 miles, and you get a good dose of punch: 202 horsepower. However, you have to opt for a sedan. That’s a problem for some people who like to sit up high. The Niro charges quickly in 2.5 hours; the Optima might take a bit longer.

Audi A7 55 TSFI e Quattro Plug-In Hybrid, 24 miles

The A7 PHEV allows its buyers to own a large, luxurious top-tier Audi while claiming some green credibility. The Sportback features a two-liter turbo four-cylinder that sandwiches an electric motor between it and a seven-speed S-tronic dual-clutch transmission. It produces a net 362 horsepower, good for 60 mph in 5.7 seconds. But remember it’s a PHEV, so its 14.1 kilowatt-hour battery gives it 24 miles of all-electric range (440 total). The S line exterior package is standard, as are LED headlights with high-beam assist, four-zone automatic climate control, and 20-inch wheels. This is a $74,900 car, with $6,712 in federal money available to soften the impact.

Mitsubishi Outlander Plug-In Hybrid, 24 miles

The Oil Control Valve is an essential component of every engine equipped with variable valve technology. Responsible for controlling the oil flow in the camshaft, it also helps maintain the operation of the engine’s internal moving parts.

Additionally, the use of oil control valves also offers many other inevitable benefits, such as efficient fuel consumption, reduced vehicle emissions, and improved engine performance.

However, its failure can sometimes cause problems. Therefore, to recognize the symptoms of a faulty oil control valve, it is crucial to first understand its basic operation.

Operating Principle of the Oil Control Valve in the Automotive System

This component has its own importance in the proper functioning of any automotive vehicle. Being regulated by the engine control module, it is also known as the engine oil solenoid valve.

This valve controls the oil flow in the engine’s camshaft. If the oil does not reach an appropriate amount, it can harm the engine’s normal operation.

Therefore, the oil control valve must open and close at the right time to lubricate the camshaft. In fact, it decides when to prevent oil from entering or allow oil to exit.

The PCM/ECM will control the valve and instruct it on the appropriate actions based on the engine’s performance requirements.

What is an oil control valve used for? Watch the video below for more information.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=fPqjJVHZS3I%3Ffeature%3Doembed

Common Symptoms of a Failing Oil Control Valve

Some symptoms require immediate attention to be repaired and ensure the proper functioning of the oil control valve. Some of them include:

1. Poor Fuel Economy

This means the oil control valves are unable to regulate the oil flow in the system. This leads to the engine overperforming and increased oil consumption.

Additionally, the exhaust valves would also open and close at the wrong time, resulting in increased fuel expenses.

Ultimately, this would also damage the other internal engine components and significantly reduce fuel economy.

2. Slow Acceleration

Failure to regulate oil consumption would directly affect the car’s acceleration performance. It can be checked by accelerating the car and noting the time taken to reach the desired speed.

Simply put, if the car fails to reach a speed of 60 km/h in a short time, it is a sign of a disrupted oil control valve.

3. Inefficient Engine

To ensure an impeccable and superior oil control valve, one must consider the car’s variable valve timing system.

It generates the power required by the vehicle, which activates automatically when the RPM is above normal. Even when the load on the car is greater, especially on uphill roads, it stimulates.

In this regard, if the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) solenoid is deteriorated, it can cause RPM fluctuations, thus reducing the vehicle’s power.

Now, the question arises: why does this happen? Well, the main cause of damage to the oil control valve is not replacing the oil on time. This negligence can cause impurities, leading to blockage and subsequently preventing oil from entering the camshaft.

Now, it should be easier to detect vehicle malfunctions and work on its maintenance tips to avoid significant expenses.

4. Engine Overheating

Keep in mind that the oil control valve does more than just regulate pressurized engine oil to adjust the position and angle of the camshafts.

Fresh oil is pumped through the valves, camshafts, solenoids, and many other components of a variable valve timing system when the oil control valves open.

By directing the heat from these components to the oil pan, where it can be cooled, it creates an additional type of cooling (besides coolant).

If and when the oil control valves malfunction, it can prevent oil from reaching these parts, thereby increasing the engine temperature and accelerating component wear.

5. Rough Idling

Under typical circumstances, the VVT system operates at higher RPMs or under stress, such as when climbing a hill.

Excess engine oil can be injected into the VVT system by a faulty oil control valve or VVT solenoid, resulting in irregular idling, stalling, or simply poor engine performance in general.

6. Check Engine Light On

The check engine light will invariably come on if there is a problem with the oil control valve. The onboard diagnostic system (OBD2) will generate a code.

This code will tell you if the issues you are experiencing are due to the OCV and its associated VVT solenoid. DTCs P0008, P0014, and P0017 are all VVT-related codes.

As with all cases where the check engine light is on, the car can be driven a limited distance before being towed to a service specialist for repair.

What Causes a Bad Oil Control Valve?

As indicated by the ECU, the VVT solenoid is electrically powered. The VVT solenoid can stop functioning if there is a problem with this system or its electrical wiring.

Additionally, the solenoid itself may encounter an internal electrical issue and start working only occasionally, or not at all.

The OCV uses engine oil, which must be clean to function properly. Sludge and/or varnish (sticky deposits) can accumulate in this valve if regular oil and filter changes are not performed as indicated in your owner’s manual.

This contamination can delay or prevent its operation. Furthermore, despite the fact that this valve is quite basic, an internal mechanical failure could lead to its malfunction.

An inline oil filter before the valve oil inlet is used in many OCV configurations. Dirt or sludge could partially or completely clog this screen. This obstruction can block the flow to the OCV, thus preventing it from functioning.

Again, clean oil is essential. Regular replacement of engine oil and filter can help prevent this type of failure.

Can You Replace a Faulty Oil Control Valve?

The simple answer is yes, but you must be competent in this area. Changing the oil control valve yourself can reduce the overall cost if you are comfortable with engines and capable of conducting the necessary web research to inform yourself.

To ensure that the engine oil is clean and any sludge has been removed, be prepared to replace the oil and filter at the same time. For the majority of car owners, hiring a qualified technician is preferable.

They are equipped to identify the problem by reading ECM error codes. They can also change the engine oil and filter at the same time as replacing the VVT solenoid if necessary.

Watch the video below to learn how to replace the oil control valve in Toyota cars!

https://youtube.com/watch?v=CkLYUjjjJus%3Ffeature%3Doembed

How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Faulty Oil Control Valve?

What can you do to address a malfunctioning oil control valve now that you know what to look for? Unfortunately, an oil control valve cannot simply be repaired; instead, a complete replacement is advised.

Furthermore, in some vehicles, the oil control valve and the VVT solenoid are combined into a single device. In this situation, replacing the OCV also requires replacing the entire VVT solenoid.

A faulty oil control valve will cost you between $100 and $600 to replace. In case of failure, oil control valves (with a VVT solenoid) cost between $50 and $300.

Labor costs will increase the total cost by an additional $50 to $300. The replacement cost will often range between $200 and $500, but this will greatly depend on your car’s make and model.

Additionally, if your oil control valves are difficult to access, the labor cost may be higher. In addition to replacing the OCV and VVT solenoids, the following expenses should be considered:

• Diagnostics ($50 to $150) – Charged by a mechanic to diagnose and identify the current problem (not always relevant). This often covers the costs associated with retrieving error codes and evaluating the OCV.
• Oil Change and Filter Replacement ($40 – $150) – If the OCV fails due to burnt, contaminated, or old oil, flush it as well. Then, add new oil to your car and replace the oil filter. This will facilitate the removal of sludge from the oiling system.

Oil Control Valve FAQ

1. Can you drive a car with a faulty OCV?

Even if your car’s VVT solenoid is broken, you can still drive it, but it won’t be enjoyable. This failure can lead to various operational issues, such as irregular idling or slow acceleration, depending on the circumstances.

Regardless of the symptoms, the engine will not operate optimally, which will significantly increase fuel consumption. Unattended VVT faults can eventually cause further engine damage.

2. Can engine knocking be caused by bad oil control valves?

Yes. If one or both of the engine’s VVT or OCV solenoids malfunction, the engine may start knocking and pinging.

This will occur if a VVT issue makes the air/fuel mixture so lean that it ignites during combustion. If your car’s engine is knocking, you should not drive it because pre-ignition can be very harmful.

3. How long do VVT solenoids and oil control valves last?

The level of production and maintenance of the valves affects the lifespan of the oil control valve or VVT solenoid. The oil control valve typically lasts between one and three years.

As technology evolves, it finds new applications that can facilitate our daily lives and enhance our safety. One such application is adaptive braking, a revolutionary braking technology that automatically adjusts braking force based on driving conditions. With various sensors and a microprocessor, this system can detect factors such as wheel rotation speed and applied braking force to optimize braking performance and minimize the risk of skidding.

Definition of Adaptive Braking

Automation has always been the holy grail of technological innovation, with a particular focus on the automotive industry. The digital revolution that has taken over our lives has given rise to technical marvels that would have been impossible to imagine a few decades ago. One such technological gem is adaptive braking. But what exactly is adaptive braking and how does it work?

At its core, adaptive braking is an intelligent or automated braking system that automatically adjusts braking force according to driving conditions. It automatically detects potential obstacles and takes the necessary measures to avoid a collision. If this sounds futuristic, it certainly is.

Adaptive braking works by using a series of strategically placed sensors around the car. These sensors use either radar, laser, or camera technology that are constantly on the lookout for potential dangers all around the vehicle. If an object is detected near the vehicle’s path, the adaptive braking system intervenes and applies the brakes automatically.

This technology goes beyond traditional ABS (Anti-lock Braking System), which prevents wheel lock-up during emergency braking to allow steering control. Adaptive braking, on the other hand, doesn’t just react to emergency situations. It anticipates and acts accordingly, often faster than the driver could.

For example, imagine you’re driving on a highway and the vehicle in front of you brakes suddenly. In a traditional scenario, you would need to react in time to avoid a collision. But with adaptive braking, the car does it for you, automatically applying the brakes to prevent an accident.

Similarly, adaptive braking can also be useful in heavy traffic situations, where frequent and sudden stops are the norm. In such scenarios, adaptive braking can help reduce driver fatigue while improving safety.

Ultimately, adaptive braking is an impressive advancement in automotive engineering that offers enormous potential to improve road safety. It’s a feature to consider when thinking about your next new vehicle purchase. It’s a technological being that transforms the ordinary into the extraordinary, pushing the boundaries of automation towards the future.

Advantages of Adaptive Braking

Beyond that, exploring the advantages of adaptive brakes in the automotive world leads to broader and deeper perspectives. The first point to emphasize is the contribution of adaptive brakes to optimizing energy consumption. Indeed, they enable a significant improvement in the energy efficiency of modern vehicles thanks to their ability to adjust braking force according to driving conditions. This innovative technological factor is essential in the era of electric vehicles, where energy efficiency is paramount.

Similarly, the importance of adaptive brakes in reducing braking distance cannot be ignored. The embedded technology detects the proximity of other cars and applies appropriate brake pressure to minimize braking distance, thus helping to avoid collisions and improve safety.

One of the major advantages of these systems lies in their ability to improve driving comfort. Adaptive brakes reduce the pressure needed to engage the brakes, which leads to less fatigue for the driver during long journeys.

Moreover, adaptation to various weather conditions is another impressive feature of these brakes. The embedded sensor technology allows the brakes to adapt and react optimally in various situations, whether it’s slippery roads due to rain or snow, or normal driving conditions.

Finally, adaptive brakes play a significant role in improving vehicle maintenance. Thanks to data collected by the sensors, the system can predict future wear and indicate when maintenance is needed. This helps prevent unexpected failures and improves vehicle lifespan.

In summary, adaptive brakes constitute a crucial technological innovation in the automotive world. They not only improve energy efficiency, safety, and driving comfort, but they also adapt their operation to various weather conditions and help prevent maintenance issues. As the world increasingly moves towards automation, these systems pave the way for an exciting transformation of future vehicles.

What are the different types of braking systems and how do they work

Challenges and Limitations of Adaptive Brakes

However, the development and optimization of adaptive brakes also present challenges. To begin with, the technological complexity required for the smooth and precise operation of these braking systems poses a serious challenge. The integration of numerous sensors and computer systems requires careful design and precise programming, as well as a series of rigorous tests to ensure their optimal functioning.

Similarly, the cost of advanced components and the technology required for these systems is considerable. This can significantly increase the final cost of a vehicle, which may make cars with adaptive braking less accessible to the majority of consumers.

Moreover, maintaining these advanced systems can also pose a problem. Adaptive braking that is not properly maintained may not function as intended, which can not only reduce the effectiveness of the technology but also endanger the safety of the vehicle occupants.

Furthermore, the challenge of compatibility with other existing vehicle systems cannot be ignored. Adaptive brakes must be able to coexist and function effectively with other electronic and mechanical systems of the vehicle, ranging from lighting to suspension. This requires compatible communication protocols and the elimination of potential interference.

Finally, we cannot fail to mention the legal and regulatory challenges associated with the introduction of such advanced technologies. As technology continues to evolve, regulations must keep pace, which is not always the case. Clearer regulations and international consensus are needed to ensure broader adoption and safer use of adaptive braking.

Despite these challenges, the optimization of adaptive brakes continues at full speed, with the promise of significantly improving road safety and energy efficiency. As with any technological innovation, balancing potential gains with costs and challenges can be tricky, but the potential of this technology to transform how we drive is undeniable. The journey towards the automotive future continues, and adaptive braking is one of the most exciting passengers.

Why does my car pull to one side?

The Future of Adaptive Brakes

As we navigate further into the waters of technological innovation, let’s explore the horizon for adaptive brakes in the automotive industry. Already at the forefront of road safety, this technological masterpiece still has much to offer.

On the technological front, the integration of AI (Artificial Intelligence) into adaptive brakes is on the horizon. Thus, these systems could learn and further improve their performance based on the user’s driving habits. Additionally, the use of technologies such as LiDAR could further enhance the accuracy of obstacle detection.

Regarding financial challenges, even though the high initial cost of components might deter some, it’s important to mention that, as with any new technology, prices are likely to decrease over time and with increased mass production. In fact, work is underway to make this technology more affordable and accessible to the general public.

As for maintenance, manufacturers are striving to make these systems increasingly autonomous and less dependent on regular maintenance. However, as with any technology, periodic checks remain necessary to ensure proper functioning.

The potential for applying adaptive braking technology in many on-road situations offers immense hope for improving road safety. With their ability to react in a fraction of a second to an emergency situation, these systems could significantly reduce the number of collisions and improve the safety of all road users.

Finally, let’s turn our gaze to the future of integrating adaptive brakes into autonomous vehicles. With the rapid progress of autonomous driving technology, the importance of adaptive brakes is only increasing. In fact, they are a key element of the technological infrastructure needed to make autonomous driving a reality.

Thus, adaptive brakes are more than just a technological step; they are a pivotal element of the next automotive revolution. Without a doubt, this technology is redefining how we drive and think about road safety. So hold on tight, because adaptive brakes are taking us on an exciting journey towards a safer and more efficient future on the road.

Adaptive brakes present challenges, but they are also synonymous with a great number of advantages. Despite the high cost and complexity of installation and maintenance, one cannot ignore the safety benefits they offer. With their ability to adapt to different driving conditions and their potential to reduce braking distances, they undoubtedly constitute a significant innovation in the automotive industry. In the future, with the advent of autonomous driving and the constant evolution of technology, adaptive brakes could become a standard feature in all vehicles and play a determining role in improving road safety.

Transmission fluid is the lifeblood of the transmission. It ensures the engine runs smoothly and keeps the transmission temperature low since the gears generate a lot of heat due to numerous mechanical movements. Some people simply forget to change the fluid, which creates many problems. But will there be issues if there is too much transmission fluid? Let’s find out.

What are the symptoms of excess transmission fluid?

Every driver knows the importance of transmission fluid for the car, so we always feel like adding a bit more when changing the fluid, as most people think more is better than less. However, any excess is not good. Adding too much transmission fluid, exceeding the level specified by car manufacturers, will have unpredictable consequences.

Here are 4 common symptoms you may observe if your transmission is overfilled:

• First, when you remove the transmission dipstick, you will notice that the fluid appears foamy and bubbles appear on the dipstick.
• Transmission overheating – caused by the inability to reduce friction. If your car’s transmission overheats, it’s important to address the issue as soon as possible to avoid damaging the transmission components and your vehicle’s drivetrain.
• Difficult and delayed shifting – due to foamy fluid
• Appearance of a fluid puddle under the transmission – check for leaks on the transmission seals
• Gear slipping

What happens if you add too much transmission fluid?

The main function of transmission fluid is to minimize friction between the transmission components. However, it cannot do its job properly when you overfill the fluid reservoir. The result will be a grumpy transmission. Why does this happen?

Because of foam! Too much transmission fluid creates foam inside the transmission. Foam formation occurs when the rotating gears splash in the overfilled reservoir. It triggers excessive temperature and causes a chemical reaction leading to foam creation.

Foam affects the oil’s viscosity. For this reason, the fluid does not flow properly through the gears when you shift. Lack of lubrication will cause the transmission components to overheat, resulting in mechanical damage and transmission failure.

Although the consequence is the same, automatic and manual transmissions react differently to excess transmission fluid. In an automatic transmission, the gears compress, causing the foam inside to implode. This will affect the hydraulic pressure and cause further damage, as the automatic transmission depends on this pressure to function properly.

On the other hand, an overfilled manual transmission will show clutch problems. The excess oil will leak from the vent, affect the clutch, and lead to shifting issues.

How much fluid should the transmission hold?

You should add half a quart at a time and continue taking readings with a dipstick. When it reads “full,” run the engine and set the gear to “idle” mode. Recheck the oil level when the engine is warm. Stop pouring oil when the dipstick indicates the oil level is at the upper end of the “hot” mark. If the engine is cold, the oil level should be at the upper end of the “cold” mark. When the engine is neither hot nor cold, the fluid level should be between these two marks.

Most transmissions have a capacity between 9 and 13 quarts. Consult the owner’s manual for the exact amount. However, you should always add it little by little to avoid too much transmission fluid.

If the engine was warmed up and the transmission fluid was still hot, the fluid level should not be more than a quarter inch above the full line, otherwise. At this point, there might be an issue with your transmission, and you may want to consider reducing the amount of transmission fluid in your reservoir.

Some transmissions cannot overflow due to how they are designed. They have a system that will drain or spill the excess oil.

Watch the video below to learn how to check transmission fluid:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=S0kCselv9fo%3Ffeature%3Doembed

What to do if the transmission is overfilled?

If your car shows symptoms of overflow, avoid complications and mechanical damage simply by siphoning or draining the excess fluid. You can do this using a fluid extraction pump or a fill tube that you can buy online. Depending on your car’s design, it will either have a cooling line or a pan drain plug, both of which you can simply remove to drain the fluid.

Here are the steps you can follow:

1. Check the transmission fluid level: Use the dipstick to check the transmission fluid level. If the fluid level is above the maximum mark, your transmission is overfilled.
2. Drain the excess fluid: If the transmission fluid is overfilled, you will need to remove the excess fluid. You can do this using a fluid pump or a siphon pump to suck out the excess fluid from the dipstick tube. Make sure to remove only the excess fluid and not drain too much transmission fluid.
3. Check for leaks: Overfilling transmission fluid can be caused by a leak. So it’s important to check for any signs of leakage, such as wet spots or puddles under the vehicle. If you find a leak, repair it before adding more transmission fluid.
4. Test drive the vehicle: After removing the excess fluid, take your vehicle for a short test drive to ensure the transmission is working properly. Check for any unusual noises or vibrations during the drive.

Final words

As you can see, an overfilled transmission is not a complicated problem to solve and avoid. But many drivers still have issues with this system because they ignore it until it causes serious damage.

Therefore, all you need to do is always take care of your car and check it thoroughly at least once a week. Keep in mind that not only the engine is important, but also other parts, including the transmission.

Every car warning light has a meaning, and when it lights up, there’s certainly something your car wants to communicate. One of these indicators is the emission light that may illuminate. If you’re faced with the dilemma of whether to stop or continue driving, we’ll help you here to know the truth.

What Does the “ON” Emission Light Indicate?

The lights and signals that appear on the dashboard exist for a specific purpose. Yes, the emission light turned on in a car can mean many things!

Although there isn’t much risk when the light comes on, you shouldn’t ignore what your car’s system is trying to tell you.

Before knowing the safety of driving with the emission light “on,” it’s essential to understand why the light illuminates. Here are a few reasons.

1. Simply a Sensor Error

When the emission light comes on, but there’s no interruption in your car’s operation, there’s a problem with the sensor.

This means there’s no potential risk you need to consider. It’s a common system failure that causes the dashboard lighting to malfunction.

To be safer, it’s always recommended to consult a mechanic. Sometimes, there may be internal issues that can go unnoticed.

In this case, a vehicle expert would be the right person to contact. These professionals can help you unravel the mystery behind the emission lights.

2. Faulty Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve, or properly, the EGR, helps circulate exhaust gases from the engine for re-combustion.

The valve ensures that fuel is fully used and the output of exhaust gases into the environment decreases. In simple terms, the EGR helps regulate the car’s emissions into the atmosphere.

When the EGR system becomes faulty for one reason or another, the emission control light is likely to illuminate.

That’s why it’s essential to consult a mechanic who will inspect the system and replace the EGR valve if necessary. Refer to the maintenance tips for a DIY process to clean EGR valves.

3. Faulty Vacuum Hose

A rubber tube fitting that connects a manifold vacuum to various components of a car is a vacuum hose.

It’s a component that has the ability to power car components, which requires installing a large number of them.

It’s important to know that the vacuum, being a rubber component, can crack or even disconnect.

This can be another reason why the emission control system light comes on. Although there isn’t much risk if the vacuum hose malfunctions, its replacement should never be neglected.

Consider replacing the vacuum hoses when the emission icon lighting is accompanied by engine RPM fluctuations or when you notice a decrease in fuel consumption.

Is It Safe to Drive with the Emission Light On?

Most of the time, it’s possible to drive safely when the emission light is on. If the emission light is on, but there’s no problem with the car’s proper functioning, you have nothing to worry about!

On the other hand, if the car experiences issues with mileage, speed, power, and responds slowly to throttle action; have it checked. It’s never a bad idea to send your car for an inspection!

How to Reset the Emission Light?

You need to take your automobile to a garage, where it will be thoroughly inspected, the problem will be fixed, and the light will be turned off for you.

If the light doesn’t turn off automatically, you can try the methods listed below. It’s essential that you solve the problem rather than just resetting your lighting without investigating the potential reasons.

The easiest way to reset the check engine light is to drive your car regularly and let the light turn off spontaneously. If it hasn’t turned off after three days, turn it on and off three times in a row.

If the Check Emission Light (CEL) still doesn’t turn off, disconnect and reconnect the battery. While the engine is off, disconnect the positive power cable with a wrench and leave it for 20 minutes.

Turn the ignition key to the “ON” position. Reconnect the positive battery cable and turn the key in the ignition; the CEL should disappear within a few minutes.

If none of these solutions work, you need to take your car to a workshop so a specialist can reset your lighting.

They will also perform thorough diagnostics to establish in the first place the real source of the lighting and whether your automobile has any defects.

FAQ on Emission Light On

1. How Long Can You Drive When the Emission Light Is On?

When you notice the check engine light, you can safely drive 50 to 100 miles with the light on.

This is because if the problem is with the sensors, turning off the check engine light will save time for its reset. If the light remains on, check the computer for relevant error codes.

2. Is There a Serious Problem with Emission Lights On?

A steady light suggests that you should have your car inspected soon, but a flashing CEL tells you that you need to have your vehicle evaluated by a professional immediately.

3. What Is the Cost to Repair a Broken Emission Control System Light?

It’s impossible to estimate the cost of repairing the emission control system message without first identifying the problem.

It could be as simple as a broken gas cap, which costs between $10 and $30, or it could be caused by a faulty catalytic converter, which costs $1,500 or more.

4. Can Faulty Spark Plugs Cause Bad Emissions in Cars?

Yes. Misfires in the combustion process can be caused by faulty spark plugs, leading to unburned fuel exiting the engine through the exhaust. The oxygen sensor will identify this as harmful emissions.

5. Does an Emission Light Indicate an Oil Change?

The presence of an emission light turned on may indicate that your car needs an oil change. It can trigger if the oil is excessively dirty or if the flow is insufficient throughout the engine.

Ultimately, the car emission light is a useful tool for car owners. It could help you identify possible reasons for your car’s problems. The sooner you identify the emission issue and fix it, the sooner you can get back on the road.

Unless you’re driving a car from 1990 or older, it’s likely equipped with an Electronic Throttle Control (ETC). Nowadays, most vehicles come with dozens of computer-controlled electronic systems, and ETC is one of them. Unlike older vehicles, there is no mechanical linkage between the accelerator pedal and the throttle in newer models. Instead, the ETC acts as the connection between these components. The Electronic Throttle Control warning light illuminates if there’s a problem with this system.

When you press the accelerator pedal, the ETC receives an electrical signal and sends control actions to manage the opening and closing of the throttle. When this cycle is disrupted for any reason, the ETC light on the dashboard starts flashing.

What is the Electronic Throttle Control Warning Light?

To begin, we’ll share with you the basic knowledge about your car’s electronic throttle control warning light. You might not know that the main responsibility of the electronic throttle control is to manage the throttle opening in the engine. Thus, the ETC (Electronic Throttle Control) light is an indicator that alerts drivers when the throttle control system has a problem.

When the ETC light comes on the car’s dashboard, it means one of the parts in the throttle control system is malfunctioning, such as a faulty throttle position sensor, a stuck throttle, or an issue with the system’s wiring or connections. This can cause various symptoms, like reduced engine power, poor acceleration, and difficulty maintaining a constant speed. If the ETC light illuminates while you’re driving, it’s important to have your car inspected by a qualified mechanic as soon as possible to diagnose the underlying issue and prevent potential safety risks.

Reasons Why the Electronic Throttle Control Light Comes On

Any malfunction in the ETC system triggers an OBD-II trouble code stored in the Engine Control Module (ECM). A mechanic will use a digital scanner to retrieve the codes and determine the source of the problem. After that, it’s about taking the appropriate repair measures.

Nevertheless, knowing the causes of a flashing electronic throttle control warning light will give you a head start on the repair work to expect.

1. Erratic Throttle Operation

One of the most common electronic throttle control problems is intermittent throttle response.

As you already know, the ETC controls the throttle via an electrical signal. The system cannot function when something disrupts the signal, such as an issue with the control relay, a loose electrical wire, or a damaged sensor.

In any case, the throttle control will lose signals, causing it to work correctly at times and not at others. The problem will affect the car’s acceleration and could lead to a complete loss of accelerator pedal control or the car stalling.

You should stop driving when the vehicle does not accelerate when you press the accelerator pedal. Tow it to a service center and have them diagnose the problem.

2. Accelerator Hesitation or Stumbling

Damage to the throttle control is another instance when the electronic throttle control warning light illuminates. This causes erratic system operation leading to hesitation or a stumbling effect during acceleration when you engage the throttle.

The acceleration issue can lead to major safety risks. The worst-case scenario is a stuck throttle which could result in road accidents. So, take the car to a mechanic when it shows symptoms.

3. A Significant Drop in Fuel Mileage

A flashing electronic throttle control light can be linked to a sudden change in fuel economy. You may need to fill up the tank more often than usual. This happens due to a damaged throttle controller. The system controls the air-fuel mixture entering the engine. Faulty signals can disrupt the system, causing the engine to consume more fuel than necessary.

4. Limited Acceleration

A severe ETC system failure will also cause the electronic throttle control warning light to come on. The problem can put the engine into limp mode. When this happens, the car cannot accelerate beyond a fast idle. The ECM limits the speed to protect the engine from further damage.

5. Damaged Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor

The accelerator pedal position sensor is responsible for detecting the position of the accelerator pedal and relaying this information to the engine control module. If this sensor is faulty, it can cause the ETC light to illuminate.

6. Wiring Problem

Wiring issues can occur in any part of the ETC system, including the throttle body, accelerator pedal position sensor, and engine control module. If there is a problem with the wiring, the ETC light may come on.

7. Failing Engine Control Module

The engine control module is responsible for controlling the ETC system. If the engine control module fails, the ETC light may illuminate.

Learn how to fix the problem when the electronic throttle control light is flashing in this video:

Should I Drive When the Electronic Throttle Control Light Is On?

Of course, it is not recommended to drive when warning lights are illuminated on the car’s dashboard, including the electronic throttle control light, especially when this light is flashing. It’s a warning sign indicating there is a problem with the ETC system, and it can directly affect throttle response and engine performance.

Therefore, our advice is this: if the ETC light is on, you should take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic as soon as possible to diagnose and repair the issue. Continuing to drive with a faulty ETC system can lead to further damage to your vehicle and may also pose a safety risk.

In some cases, the ETC system may go into a “safety mode” when a problem occurs, meaning engine power may be reduced to prevent further damage. If this happens, you might still be able to drive your vehicle to a safe location or to a repair shop, but you should do so cautiously and at reduced speed. In any case, it’s best to have your vehicle inspected by a qualified mechanic as soon as possible when the ETC light comes on to ensure your safety and prevent further damage to your vehicle.

There is a system called the “evaporative emission control system,” which, in turn, contains a vapor canister purge valve. The valve is responsible for regulating the amount of fuel vapor exiting the charcoal canister. The purge valve is known to work in sync with the charcoal canister to recycle emissions as they need to be eliminated through the internal combustion process. That is why driving with a faulty purge valve can affect the engine.

Are you concerned about how to tell if the valve has malfunctioned? Here are the five most common symptoms to watch for that indicate the purge valve needs repair or replacement.

Symptoms of Driving with a Faulty Purge Valve

If you have a faulty purge valve, the situation would be worse than a non-functioning charcoal canister. Here are the symptoms that could help you decide that it’s the purge valve causing problems.

1. The Check Engine Light Turns On

Although there are dozens of reasons that can lead to the check engine light turning on, a faulty purge valve could be one of them. There are sensors in the car’s system that monitor the operation of the purge valve, and once the signals from the valve fail to transmit, an indication is the result. When the sensors detect a loss of signal from the valve, the information is then communicated to the engine control unit. That is why the dashboard light turns on, indicating that you have driven with a faulty purge valve.

2. Rough Idling

Do you often get stuck in traffic with the engine light on? If so, you’ll know how smoothly or roughly your vehicle handles it. If you notice a change that leads to rough idling, you should consult a mechanic. It’s likely that the purge valve is faulty and requires your attention. Do not ignore the problem, as it could lead to the engine stalling completely because vacuum leaks are very likely to occur.

3. Difficulty Starting

When your car is experiencing a vacuum leak, you may struggle to start the car. This problem is even more consistent when it’s the purge valve that has malfunctioned. The vacuum leak would create an entry point for air to enter the engine and significantly disrupt the combustion process. This is not a favorable situation! You can also refer to maintenance tips for other issues that may cause delays in starting your vehicle.

4. Poor Engine Performance

If you’re a fan of high speeds, a faulty purge valve will ruin all the fun of driving. Engine performance would become poor, and no matter how hard you try, power output would deteriorate. If you already miss your smooth rides, you should consult a mechanic. You need to address these small issues when driving at your desired speed.

5. Failed Emission Tests

Did you know that a purge valve prevents toxic hydrocarbons from being released from the exhaust pipe? So when you have a faulty purge valve, toxic hydrocarbons escape from the internal system. Such a situation would not be good for your emission control tests. With more toxicity in the air, you would also increase your carbon footprint. If it’s the purge valve that has caused the mess, you’d better repair or replace it as needed.

Summary

These are the five most common symptoms you need to watch for when driving with a faulty purge valve. Never forget that the healthier your car is, the better the driving experience.

Upgrading your air suspension can improve your car’s comfort.

Whether it’s speed bumps in a residential cul-de-sac, low curbs in driveways, or even potholes or unintended bumps on the road, it’s unfortunate that UK roads aren’t particularly kind to vehicles carrying heavy loads or high-performance sports vehicles. There have surely been times when you wished you could raise your truck or car’s suspension to help it clear an obstacle more easily. Similarly, sometimes when there’s nothing in the back of your van, you sit quite high and feel like you’re riding much slower than usual. While normal suspension systems based on coils and springs are comfortable and provide good vehicle handling, they don’t offer you the ability to lift or lower your vehicle. Enter air suspension.

Air suspension, or air-ride, has been around for a long time, with aftermarket kits first appearing for installation on cars as early as 1920. Besides providing comfort for drivers, it was initially used as a self-leveling suspension for heavy loads. People even used it to help illegally transport moonshine! That’s why, even today, many new trucks and trailers come equipped with air suspension systems, and there’s a whole range of aftermarket kits that can be fitted later.

Air Lift is one of the most well-known companies in aftermarket air suspension and has been around since 1949. Although we tend to associate air-ride as being more comfort-oriented than performance-focused, it was extremely popular in drag racing and NASCAR in the 1950s and 60s.

So, what is this air suspension, why do people want it, and what are the pros and cons of using air suspension?

WHAT IS AIR SUSPENSION AND HOW DOES AIR SUSPENSION WORK?

Conventional shock and spring suspension systems with steel components provide the vehicle with excellent handling and fantastic overall performance. Air suspension, however, replaces these components with robust rubber airbags that can be inflated using an onboard or external air compressor. This allows the vehicle to lift or lower depending on how much the airbag is inflated and can make a car much more comfortable to drive or give it a better appearance. Does air suspension affect performance? Yes – but not necessarily in a bad way. Modern kits also include features like adjustable camber top mounts and adjustable damping, meaning you can have the best of both worlds.

It’s important to note that there are two different types of air suspension: “semi” air suspension and “full” air suspension.

“Semi-air suspension” supports a car’s existing suspension. It’s often found on heavy goods vehicles or trucks. An air spring is installed between the chassis and the rear axle, which increases the vehicle’s ride height and generates greater spring travel. In this way, semi-air suspension helps increase the level of comfort and stability when traveling in your vehicle.

If you’re experiencing suspension issues, full air suspension could be a fully automatic and adjustable solution. The conventional suspension system is completely replaced by a full air suspension system that filters out road surface irregularities, making the ride much more comfortable.

Ultimately, the only major difference between conventional and air suspension systems is that instead of the car resting on a coil spring, it rests on a rubber bellows filled with compressed air. Since the bags aren’t pre-inflated, they are supplied by an air tank and an electric air compressor, and the car can be raised and lowered simply by inflating and deflating the bag.

WHAT ARE THE KEY COMPONENTS OF AN AIR SUSPENSION SYSTEM?

AIR SPRINGS (BAGS)

These are robust rubber bases that replace the coil spring in a conventional setup. They come in two main styles: the coilover setup or the conventional style. In the coilover setup, the bag has a hole in the middle allowing the shock absorber to pass through it. In the conventional style, the bag is completely independent of the shock absorber.

Modern airbags don’t look like a balloon filled with air as we might imagine. They are solid and durable and designed to expand and contract only vertically. When fully inflated, they can have an air pressure of 100 psi.

SHOCK ABSORBER

If you have a suspension design where the spring is mounted separately from the shock absorber, the same shock absorber you would have used with your conventional coil spring can be used. Fortunately, nowadays, with the growing popularity of airbags in the tuning scene, there are now coilover-type kits for a wide range of cars, offering a matched shock absorber and airbag combination. These kits not only simplify installation but also improve handling and ride quality. Many of them feature shock absorbers with adjustable height platforms for the bags, adjustable damping, and even adjustable camber top mounts.

COMPRESSOR

Air doesn’t magically enter the airbags. That’s what the compressor does. All air suspension kits require at least one compressor, and you’ll typically find that the one supplied is quite small and compact; they often fit perfectly in the car’s boot. They often run on a 12-volt power supply, so they won’t drain your battery. The big issue, however, is that they are often very noisy.

AIR TANK

This compressor noise is what makes the air tank necessary. You could do air-ride without it, but the pump would have to run far too often, and it would take too long to lift the car unless the pump was gigantic. An air tank is used as the main supply for the airbags, and the air compressor is used simply to keep the tank above the minimum pressure. Depending on their size, air tanks allow the suspension to be raised at an acceptable speed without the compressor needing to kick in. However, this also has to be stored in the boot of many cars. You just need to decide what’s more important to you; more boot space or a larger tank.

ADVANTAGES

IMPROVED FUEL ECONOMY

The higher your suspension is, the greater the wind resistance of the truck and trailer, meaning your fuel economy will be worse.

Advanced air suspension systems can adjust the ride height based on the load weight and the type of journey you’re making. For long, smooth highway trips with light loads that compress the suspension less than heavy loads, the suspension can be set lower to maximize your fuel economy. For heavy loads, the suspension can be made as firm as needed, and the vehicle remains lower to the ground due to the heavy load. In both situations, the vehicle stays low, and you save fuel. In a conventional suspension system, if the load was light, the vehicle’s suspension, designed for heavy loads, would remain stiff, and your fuel economy would be much worse due to resistance.

MORE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY DUE TO REDUCED CO2 EMISSIONS

Thanks to this decreased fuel consumption and smoother driving, it automatically means less fuel used, journeys are quicker and shorter, and consequently, it’s much better for the environment. That’s something we can all be happy about!

REDUCED VIBRATIONS

Better for your cargo and better for your back on long journeys, air-ride reduces vibrations in the truck or car. Back pain isn’t just something that comes with age; Long-haul truck drivers can experience it if they remain seated for long periods. Vibrations also cause fatigue and discomfort, meaning a happier, fresher, and ultimately safer driver.

Similarly, goods transported by the truck are less likely to be damaged or shift in the back of the van or truck (even though packaging and load restraint methods these days are very good anyway).

Alongside this, a trailer can be used for more types of loads when the suspension setup is flexible. Fragile loads like glass are less likely to be damaged, and loads with difficult weight distribution can be leveled.

IMPROVED TIRE WEAR AND HANDLING

Fewer vibrations and better load distribution through leveling lead to better tire wear. Some air suspensions can even lift unused axles, thereby extending the life of those tires.

Suspension is also a significant factor in how a vehicle behaves. Better suspension could mean a lower risk of rollover. If the vehicle is higher off the ground, it’s much harder to handle, and this can be a problem for vans or trucks with a rigid suspension system when they’re not carrying a load.

EASY INSTALLATION

The advantage of these systems is that they are very easy to install. Five years ago, it might have been a bit different, but nowadays, there are various direct replacement kits for a large number of popular cars. While installing a full air suspension system on a car is still a job for professionals, for most of us, installing a semi-air suspension is no more difficult than installing a set of coilovers and shouldn’t take more than a day. These “plug-and-play” semi-air suspension kits are also relatively inexpensive. Where to install the air suspension isn’t much of a problem either, as these kits are designed to fit current suspension systems, provided there’s boot space for the tank and compressor.

DISADVANTAGES

This isn’t to say everything is perfect for air suspension systems, and they do have some drawbacks.

Some truck drivers still claim that the traditional leaf springs of a semi-trailer can provide a better ride, regardless of the load. This could be partly because air suspension can weigh about 50 kg more than leaf spring suspension. This extra weight could actually counteract the “better” handling provided by lowering the vehicle and make driving more difficult.

Since it weighs considerably more, it might be possible to install other aerodynamic devices such as trailer skirts and cab side fairings to achieve the same fuel economy gains.

Leaf spring suspension is also much more durable and typically doesn’t require much maintenance for the first 5 to 7 years, after which it will need to be tightened. In contrast, with air suspension, cars need to be serviced more frequently – up to 3 times the cost over the first ten years. Air suspension can leak, and you’ll need to keep spare air lines and other parts. Air suspension also needs to be tested more frequently, which takes time.

Although leaks are rare, finding them can be a bit frustrating. You’ll also lose some of your boot space. You need a decent-sized tank to prevent the noisy compressor from kicking in when you lift the car. Height changes aren’t as fast as with hydraulics.

Common air suspension problems can also include the air suspension being inactive due to a leak or the control unit being broken. The compressor could also fail, or the air tank could lose pressure. All these components then need to be serviced or replaced, which could cost you more in parts and repair fees at a garage.

THE VERDICT

So, what’s it really like to have air suspension and use it daily? Better than most people might expect. A good kit, properly set up, will perform much better than the conventional suspension of vans or trucks. For your average passenger car, it might not be worth it, as regular suspension will do the job just fine. That said, people have willingly drifted and set respectable lap times on air setups, so if you have a particularly low-slung car, like a Porsche Carrera or almost any Mercedes S or E-Class, it could be an option for you.

You will, of course, lose a bit of boot space to the compressor and air tank, but no more than with a subwoofer box or a nitrous bottle, and there’s very little weight penalty in adding the air-ride kit.

Don’t be mistaken, however: air-ride doesn’t offer the instant height jumps that hydraulic systems do (you won’t be bouncing like a lowrider), but it actually only takes a few seconds, and with a correctly sized tank, it can be done quietly too. If you’re wondering if air suspension is reliable, rest assured it is, and countless people have these systems on their daily-driven cars with no issues at all.

You’ve probably heard the phrase “riding the clutch.” It’s a term often used by driving school instructors, and you’ve likely sensed it’s a bad driving habit, but what exactly is the clutch and why should you care about it?

“Riding the clutch” refers to unnecessarily keeping the clutch pedal partially depressed. To help you understand why this is bad for your car, we’ll explain the role of the clutch, proper clutch control techniques to show the consequences of riding the clutch, as well as ways to break this bad habit. Avoiding riding the clutch is not only a fundamental aspect of driving but also of properly maintaining your beloved vehicle. Why? Keep reading to find out.

Riding the Clutch: Why Should I Care?

Simply put, in any vehicle equipped with a manual transmission, the clutch is the mechanical device that transfers rotational power from the engine to the transmission, meaning to the wheels. To do this, it connects the shaft coming from the engine and the shafts that turn the wheels.

The clutch is a crucial component because the engine generates power all the time and has parts that are constantly spinning, but the wheels do not spin constantly, and when they do, they may not spin at the same speed as the engine parts. That’s where the clutch comes in. The clutch allows the car to accelerate, slow down, or come to a complete stop without stalling the engine.

To facilitate gear changes, the clutch temporarily interrupts the connection between the wheels and the engine long enough for you to shift gears to accelerate or decelerate. It can also be said that the overall purpose of a clutch is to maximize the efficiency of the system by controlling the connection between rotating parts moving at different speeds.

The clutch/transmission system has many parts. If you master clutch control, a well-treated clutch can last up to 80,000 miles. But if you have the bad habit of “riding the clutch” as well as others like riding the clutch in certain situations, you will need to replace these parts much sooner, sometimes as soon as you reach 35,000 miles. And that won’t be cheap.

The Principle of Clutch Control

In a vehicle with a manual transmission, the basic principle of smooth clutch control is to fully disengage the clutch when shifting gears by pressing the clutch pedal to the floor with your left foot, and then to re-engage the clutch by lifting the pedal to release it completely. Full disengagement before re-engaging will prevent the gears from clashing and thus allow you to shift smoothly.

When the clutch pedal is fully depressed and the clutch is fully disengaged, there is no longer a direct connection between the engine and the transmission shaft, so no torque is transmitted from the engine to the wheels. In the re-engagement phase, when you completely remove your foot from the pedal, the connection is complete again between the engine and the transmission shaft. The engine can now directly transfer torque to the transmission shaft.

During a proper gear shift, the clutch pedal should be released quickly to re-engage the engine to the transmission shaft. When the engine and transmission shaft re-engage and their speeds equalize, you will feel a distinct jerk, characteristic of a manual transmission vehicle.

However, in some situations, the clutch is intentionally released slowly. In this case, the clutch disc will “slip” against the flywheel, and this amount of friction will allow the engine a smoother transition to its new rotational speed.

Here, the clutch disc will be partially engaged and the transmission shaft will therefore only receive a fraction of the engine’s rotational power. This is commonly referred to as “slipping the clutch” or “feathering the clutch.”

Such regular slipping of the clutch disc against the flywheel causes clutch wear that is similar to the wear of a brake pad during braking. Admittedly, some wear is natural and unavoidable, but you can still minimize it with better clutch and shifting techniques.

The general rule is to release the clutch as close as possible to the correct engine speed for the gear and vehicle speed. That is, when upshifting, you will need to let the engine speed drop before releasing the clutch for a smoother transition. Conversely, when downshifting, you will need to increase the engine speed with the accelerator before releasing the clutch. A smoother transition directly results in minimal clutch wear and reduced maintenance costs.

What Does Riding the Clutch Mean?

In a vehicle with a manual transmission, riding the clutch refers to the practice of unnecessarily keeping the clutch partially disengaged. This usually happens when a driver fails to remove their foot from the clutch pedal after changing gears.

This results in the clutch disc slipping against the flywheel and some of the engine’s power not being transferred to the transmission and wheels. The friction between the clutch disc and the flywheel creates heat and eventually causes premature wear on your clutch.

Habitually resting your foot on the clutch while driving instead of on the floor or on the dead pedal is a bad habit to get into. It’s a very common habit among beginner drivers, but it’s not limited to learners only. Riding the clutch is something anyone can do while driving.

You should keep your foot away from the clutch at all times, unless you need to start your car, shift up or down gears, and come to a stop. Even if you think no pressure is applied when the foot is simply resting on the clutch pedal, it certainly is.

Although this light pressure is not enough to allow the clutch disc itself to slip, it is enough to keep the release bearing against the release springs. This causes the bearing to keep spinning, leading to premature bearing failure.

Thus, treating your clutch pedal as a footrest can lead to extra strain and wear on certain components. And since the clutch is considered a wear item just like tires and brakes, clutch wear will not be covered by your new car’s warranty. You will eventually need to repair or replace your clutch much sooner, and that’s not cheap.

The cost of repairing a clutch can range from $500 to $2,500, depending on the make and model of your car. Clutch replacement is more affordable if you own a Japanese economy car, and will be much more expensive for performance cars, exotic cars, and European models.

It is worth noting that while riding the clutch is a bad habit to get rid of, many drivers regularly and effectively use this technique in traffic jams, as it is easier to control the throttle and acceleration at very slow speeds. The clutch is also intentionally used when driving in reverse, as the distance to travel is short while full engagement of reverse gear results in too high a speed.

Another note is that riding the clutch should not be confused with “coasting” or “freewheeling,” a common practice where the clutch is pressed all the way down, allowing the car to roll either downhill or by inertia, or to roll into a parking space or over speed bumps by inertia. While this technique is not damaging to the car, it can be considered a tricky way of driving since you won’t be able to accelerate quickly if needed.

How to Avoid Riding the Clutch

Automatic transmissions are undoubtedly convenient, especially in city traffic. But a manual transmission continues to win hearts for the pure, unadulterated driving pleasure it offers. However, it is not as convenient as an automatic transmission, so you will need to learn to find a balance in your driving. If you want to enjoy your manual transmission, you must develop good habits to properly care for your clutch.

It takes some effort to break the ingrained habit of riding the clutch. It might take you a bit of practice to feel like you’ve really gotten the hang of it, but it’s worth it, both to avoid premature and costly replacement and to acquire good driving habits.

Now that you understand the meaning of riding the clutch, you need to learn how to avoid doing it.

If you have a habit of riding the clutch, the biggest clue that you are causing excessive wear to the clutch is a distinctive burning smell from the clutch discs as they slip on the gearbox shaft. If you notice this smell, adjust your position accordingly.

Automatic or Semi-Automatic Gearbox

There are several ways to avoid riding the clutch in a manual car, but the other way to avoid it completely is to buy a car with an automatic or semi-automatic gearbox. With no pedal to rest your foot on, and thus more footwell space, you will never have to worry about riding the clutch and paying for expensive repairs if the clutch fails prematurely.

Adjust Your Driving Position

One reason for riding the clutch could be a poor driving position. If you sit too close to the pedals, you may not have enough legroom to place your left foot in a comfortable position elsewhere and you might end up unintentionally resting it on the clutch pedal.

To fix this, you need to find ways to adjust your driving position. The best way to do this is to press the clutch pedal with your leg locked in a completely straight position, then move the seat until you are pushing the clutch pedal against the bulkhead in the driver’s footwell. Once the seat is adjusted, remove your foot from the pedal and you should have enough legroom to comfortably move your foot away from the clutch pedal and rest it on the floor.

Many cars are equipped with a dead pedal (footrest) which makes it much easier to avoid riding the clutch. However, if you are driving a car with a cramped footwell, see if you can place your foot behind the clutch pedal. This is not ideal, but at least one can drive without touching the clutch pedal too much.

Use Neutral More Often

The general rule for manual transmission vehicles is to use neutral more and the clutch less. You need to have your foot on the clutch to start your car, to shift up or down gears, and to come to a stop. Otherwise, keep your foot off the clutch.

When going down a slope, downshift and use your brakes or shift into neutral and use your brakes to slow down. In traffic, plan for a greater distance between your car and the one in front of you and ride a bit more with the flow of traffic.

When stopping at a red light, do not leave your car in gear as this would cause unnecessary wear on your clutch. When you leave your car in gear while stopped, you are essentially pressing the three main parts of your clutch against each other: the spring, the bearing, and the diaphragm.

Instead, release the clutch, put your car in neutral, and use your brake until the light changes. This allows it to relax and avoid excessive wear.

Shifting Gears: Be Quick and Decisive

When you need to change gears, try to look far down the road so you have the opportunity to anticipate obstacles you will encounter. The goal is to try to maintain a constant speed rather than shifting gears from time to time.

Also be decisive and quick. Don’t linger when shifting gears. This is a common problem for new drivers when they are first learning to drive a manual vehicle. Shifting gears only takes a few seconds. The longer you press the clutch pedal with each gear change, the more unnecessary pressure and wear you put on your clutch.

Even if the gear shift happens in the blink of an eye, you will shift gears multiple times during an average journey, which can add up very quickly over time.

Use the Handbrake When Parking

Whenever possible, you should use the handbrake to secure the car when you park instead of leaving your car parked in gear. Leaving a vehicle parked in gear puts pressure on the clutch even when the engine is off. Instead, using the handbrake will reduce the pressure on the clutch disc when you are not driving, so less wear in the long term.