Flat tires: not only can they ruin your day, but they can also make a dent in your wallet when the problem can’t be solved with a simple puncture repair. And if you own a four-wheel drive (4WD) or all-wheel drive (AWD) vehicle, you might need to replace not one, but two or even all four tires.

Why would you need to replace other tires that still have good tread when only one tire is bad? The answer is that tire size variations can have a major effect on the durability of modern 4WD and AWD systems.

The size of a tire, or more precisely its circumference, is important because a larger tire travels farther with each rotation than a smaller one. Although such variations may seem insignificant to the naked eye, they cause various 4WD and AWD drivetrain components to spin at different speeds, increasing wear and tear.

But that’s not the only issue. On some AWD cars, a circumference variation of more than a quarter inch between the four tires will lead to costly transmission or drivetrain failure in a short time.

There are also potential safety issues. Most modern 4WD and AWD systems are computer-controlled and are installed on vehicles also equipped with anti-lock brakes, traction control, and stability control. These safety systems require accurate information about wheel rotation speed to function properly; if tire size variations cause conflicting wheel speed signals, the systems could malfunction or be disabled.

To reduce your risk of tire-related problems on 4WD and AWD vehicles:

An engine heater is a convenient electrical device used for the sole purpose of warming up your car’s engine and its fluids during cold and winter days. At freezing temperatures, engine oil thickens, causing more resistance, as well as difficulties in starting the engine. In addition to that, the more you have to crank your engine, the more it will consume battery power. This device helps combat this issue by preheating the block or fluids so that you can start the engine more quickly. It also prevents damage caused by cold starts and idling.

The first block heater was invented in 1947 by a man from North Dakota named Andrew Freeman. As you can imagine, the cold climate of North Dakota made it very difficult for him to start his Ford car, and after draining the car’s battery, he set out on a quest for a solution. This led to the invention of the head bolt heater. By inserting an electric heating element through the head bolt, he was able to directly heat the water in the engine block. Nowadays, there are many types of heaters that can be inserted or installed on the engine block using different methods.

TYPES OF ENGINE HEATERS

If you are looking to buy a block heater, you will need to choose one based on your own needs and your vehicle’s requirements. Some are universal and easy to install, while others may require professional installation. Some heat the block itself, while others are designed to heat the coolant or the oil itself.

Dipstick Heaters. Installing these devices is quite simple as they are installed where the vehicle’s regular dipstick normally goes. The heating element warms the engine oil. In addition to being easy to use, this solution is also very affordable. The downside is that the devices normally have a lower heating capacity than most other types.

Engine Heater Blankets. These heating blankets can be placed on top of the engine or attached under the hood. They are good for warming the entire engine block.

Bolted-On External Devices. They attach to the outside of the engine block, indirectly heating the coolant. It is advisable to have it installed by a professional automotive technician as the wiring will need to be carefully routed through the engine compartment.

Freeze Plug/ Core Heaters. The car’s existing freeze plug is replaced by the heater, which heats the coolant inside the block. The plug-in heating method is direct and, therefore, generally more effective than external devices.

Oil Pan Heaters. This device acts as a heating pad for the oil pan. By attaching the pad to the oil pan with magnets or bolts, the oil can be heated from the outside.

In-Line Coolant Heater. There are two types of in-line coolant heaters: circulating and non-circulating. Both types connect to the coolant hose to heat the fluids. Circulating devices use the pump to push the warm coolant around the engine unit, while non-circulating heaters only heat the fluid in one area.

DO I REALLY NEED TO USE ONE?

It depends on where you live and where you drive your car. If you live in a sunny paradise, you will probably never have to think about it. However, if you are no stranger to icy winters, it can make all the difference. Block heaters are generally recommended when temperatures reach -15°C or lower. They can also be useful if the vehicle remains stationary for long periods and is therefore not regularly heated. These devices are also particularly useful for diesel engines that require higher temperatures to operate efficiently, as well as for cars that use non-synthetic oils. Using one can improve ignition and combustion efficiency and help reduce fuel costs in the long term.

WHEN AND HOW LONG SHOULD I USE AN ENGINE BLOCK HEATER?

It is not always necessary to keep the heater plugged in overnight, only if the weather is severe enough to solidify your engine’s antifreeze or damage the engine block. Once it has reached the necessary temperature, any additional heat will be lost and electricity will be wasted. It is often best to use a timer and start the heater a few hours before you plan to leave. It usually takes no more than 2 to 4 hours.

Since its debut in 2019, the Tesla Model Y has become one of the best-selling vehicles worldwide. The company reached the milestone of 500,000 units sold for this model in just two years, and this year, it is expected to sell around 800,000 units. But what makes this electric car so popular?

This all-electric compact crossover is one of Tesla’s most ambitious projects. It is a more affordable alternative to the Model X SUV, sharing the same platform as the company’s cheapest car – the Model 3. Designed with safety in mind, it features a low center of gravity, a rigid body structure, and large crumple zones. The family electric vehicle (EV) received a 5-star safety rating and was awarded the IIHS Top Safety Pick+.

PERFORMANCE VS LONG RANGE

The manufacturer offers two versions for this model: the current standard Long Range version and the Performance version.

RANGE AND CAPACITY:

With the Tesla Model Y Long Range, you can travel up to 330 miles on a single charge. The Model Y Performance has a slightly lower range of 303 miles (EPA).

HORSEPOWER:

However, the Performance version sacrifices range for power and speed, offering 456 hp (comb) compared to the Long Range version’s 384 hp (comb).

DRIVE:

Both versions are equipped with dual-motor all-wheel drive, which includes independent electric motors to digitally control torque at the front and rear of the vehicle, thereby improving traction and stability control. They are powered by a 75 kWh battery.

ACCELERATION AND SPEED:

A Long Range car can accelerate from 0 to 60 mph in just 4.8 seconds with a top speed of 135 mph. The Tesla Performance version significantly outperforms this, accelerating from 0 to 60 mph in about 3.5 seconds with an impressive top speed of 155 mph.

STANDARD TESLA MODEL Y DIMENSIONS

Perhaps you are looking to buy a new car. The brand and model of the vehicle were the only considerations when making this decision. Things have changed. Now you have to choose not only between style and manufacturer but also whether you want to purchase a diesel, gasoline, or even hybrid vehicle. In this article, we will discuss the difference between diesel and gasoline engines.

HOW DOES A GASOLINE ENGINE WORK?

In a gasoline engine with a carburetor or intake manifold injection, the pistons draw an air-fuel mixture into the cylinder (“external mixture formation”). If it is direct injection, which is common today, only air is drawn in. It first mixes with gasoline in the cylinder (“internal mixture formation”). Regardless of how the mixture is formed in the gasoline engine, the finished mixture is always compressed by the upward movement of the piston and then ignited by a spark plug (“spark ignition”), after which the piston is pushed downward. The efficient mixing of air and gasoline before compression is possible because gasoline evaporates quickly, meaning it mixes rapidly with air. Its low flash point ensures that a spark is sufficient to ignite it.

Igniting the final mixture has the advantage that the combustion spreads evenly in the cylinder, making these engines quiet and low in vibration. The more you press the accelerator, the more the throttle valve opens. More air is drawn in and mixed with more fuel, the optimal mixture ratio always remaining the same: for every part of gasoline, there are about 15 parts of air. Since only the quantity of the mixture varies in gasoline engines but not its composition, this is referred to as “quantitative mixture control.” When there is more fuel-air mixture in the cylinder, the compression is greater, and the resulting combustion is stronger: more pressure is exerted on the piston. The power ultimately transmitted to the drive is correspondingly greater.

HOW DOES A DIESEL ENGINE WORK?

Diesel has different chemical properties than gasoline: it is less volatile and therefore does not mix easily with air. Additionally, the flash point of this fuel is higher. Therefore, it must be ignited differently than gasoline. In a diesel engine, the piston draws in air and then compresses it to a high degree, causing it to heat up significantly. Then, atomized diesel is sprayed into the cylinder at high pressure via the injection nozzle. Due to friction with the hot air, the fuel ignites (“auto-ignition”). With diesel, the mixture of fuel and air therefore only occurs during combustion. Since the fuel and air are not pre-mixed, the combustion is uncontrolled, which makes more noise and causes the engine to vibrate more than in a gasoline engine.

As a result, a diesel has more material and is therefore more expensive. For frequent drivers in particular, however, this usually pays off due to fuel savings and lower prices at the gas station. Another point in favor of a diesel is the high torque, especially in the low RPM range, which is most often used. There is no longer a need to downshift when driving in the low RPM range. However, it is also not advisable to run a diesel engine at low RPMs.

DIFFERENCES IN EXHAUST FUMES

Gasoline engines have different exhaust gas profiles because, first, gasoline and diesel differ chemically and, second, higher temperatures are generated during combustion in this type of engine.

In general, exhaust gases must be separated from CO2 (which is harmful to the climate) and other pollutants such as particulates or nitrogen oxides. CO2 is produced during the combustion of carbon-containing fuels. Both gasoline and diesel engines therefore emit CO2. Since diesels consume less fuel than gasoline cars, they tend to be more climate-friendly on the road. However, diesel engines are often relatively powerful, partly because they are often installed in large cars such as SUVs or station wagons.

As a result, many diesels are not low-carbon in absolute numbers. Additionally, a study from May 2019 suggests that, contrary to popular belief, at least gasoline engines in the compact class and other smaller models actually emit less CO2 than comparable diesels. When it comes to nitrogen oxides, however, it is clear who is ahead: the gasoline engine. One reason for this is the three-way catalytic converter, which can only be installed in gasoline cars. Among other things, it reduces nitrogen oxides to nitrogen.

Older diesel engines produce about three times more nitrogen oxide than comparable gasoline engines. The latest models, on the other hand, are equipped with SCR catalytic converters, which convert nitrogen oxides into nitrogen using urea (also called “AdBlue”). This means they can also meet the strict Euro 6 emission standards. Particulates were a problem early on, especially in direct injection (DI) diesel engines. However, soot particle filters have alleviated the situation now that politicians have set limits for permitted particulate emissions from passenger cars. Since more and more gasoline cars also use direct injection, these limit values now also apply to correspondingly equipped gasoline engines.

WHICH VEHICLE IS MORE SUITABLE FOR SHORT DISTANCES AND WHICH FOR LONG DISTANCES?

The area of use is also important when choosing the right vehicle. This also includes whether the car will be used more for short or long distances. Many diesel vehicles are already worth owning from about 9,000 miles per year. For commuters or frequent drivers, a diesel vehicle is a real alternative to a gasoline vehicle. When purchasing a diesel, you should always pay attention to the model, as not all versions are as economical. Some car models only pay off after 18,000 miles.

Since diesel vehicles are equipped with soot particle filters and these become clogged with ash and soot after only a few hundred kilometers, they are less suitable as purely city cars. If you own a diesel vehicle, you should definitely drive on the highway more often. A gasoline car is therefore more interesting for road traffic, but here too, there are still a few things to consider.

The model plays an important role. A small car consumes much less fuel in the city than a station wagon or SUV. However, constant short trips are not good for any vehicle in the long term. For example, the exhaust of a short-distance vehicle rusts faster than that of a car that occasionally covers long distances. Here, engine condensation settles, which does not evaporate because the temperature is not high enough.

INSURANCE

The amount of car insurance you will have to pay depends, among other things, on the type of vehicle you own. Diesel cars are usually a bit more expensive to insure because they cover more miles per year due to their use on long distances and therefore present an increased risk of accidents. This causes them to be rated better in the insurance sector than gasoline vehicles. Whether diesel or gasoline is better depends solely on the needs and preferences you have as a driver and how you plan to use the vehicle. There is no clear difference in overall costs.

Everyone knows it: the performance of a particular car is often measured only in horsepower. The question of power is usually the first one asked when discussing the actual power of a vehicle. Young drivers, in particular, like to show off power figures and think that the vehicle with the most power under the hood also surpasses all others in terms of acceleration and performance. Is that really the case? Because there is also torque, which should not be overlooked. So, if you really want to compare engines with each other, you must not only pay attention to the number of horses in your vehicle but also take into consideration the factors of speed and torque.

WHAT EXACTLY IS TORQUE?

We must first address the question of what we are actually dealing with when we use the term “torque.” It describes the rotational equivalent of force. This force accelerates things, and torque sets them in motion. Torque is therefore composed of the actual force and the lever arm, which can set things in motion, but the time factor must not be overlooked here either. In terms of the engine, torque indicates how quickly the engine responds to the accelerator pedal. Modern engines must deliver as much torque as possible in the lower speed range as well as a “wide” speed range. The torque curve of the 1.4L TSI Twincharger engine meets these requirements: high torque from low RPMs (250 Nm at 1,500 rpm) and a constant curve up to high RPMs (up to 4,500 rpm).

Torque describes the effect of a force on a body. However, this force does not act directly on the body but in a rotational movement. In a car engine, the amount of torque is the effect of the combustion pressure on the piston, which in turn sets the crankshaft in motion. The torque of an engine is mainly influenced by the piston displacement. But it is the interaction of torque and speed that gives the engine its actual power. The engine speed indicates the revolutions of the crankshaft per minute. In an internal combustion engine for cars, it is between 500 and 900 revolutions per minute.

PETROL OR DIESEL, WHICH HAS MORE TORQUE?

In general, most people know that a diesel car has more to offer in terms of torque than a petrol car. Because as a compression-ignition engine, which a diesel vehicle is after all, the torque is always greater, even if the displacement is the same. This naturally also results in faster acceleration. Another reason for this is the special design of a diesel engine where the cylinders are rather narrow and tall. It can also be noted that the combustion pressure that builds up is higher. This, of course, also has a positive effect on torque.

TURBOCHARGED ENGINES – WHERE DOES ALL THAT POWER COME FROM?

Supercharging allows for increasing the power of the internal combustion engine. During the intake phase, the engine is supplied with air by a compressor, which is itself driven by a turbine powered by the energy of the exhaust gases. So, it can be said that a turbocharger brings a power increase for the same displacement. Furthermore, a turbocharger can also be useful for achieving a specific engine performance with a lightweight engine. A vehicle with a turbo engine is particularly popular with drivers of towing vehicles. Indeed, high torque at low RPM can bring significant advantages when towing a trailer.

WILL PETROL ENGINES BE LEFT IN THE DUST?

Definitely not. Although a petrol engine without a turbocharger has lower torque at low RPM, it can still deliver the same power. However, this requires high engine speeds, in which case a petrol engine can also achieve quite good acceleration. And then there are also modern petrol engines that have a turbocharger and thus compensate for this disadvantage, as then the high RPMs can also be eliminated. So, if the question is how fast your vehicle can accelerate from 0 to 100 km/h, a power comparison should be preferred over a torque comparison.

WHICH VEHICLES ARE POPULAR TODAY?

Today, people want vehicles that are flexible and can be driven with high torque even at low RPM, but can also be driven quite fuel-efficiently at low RPM. Because when it comes to performance parameters, they are only essential when high acceleration and top speed are absolute priorities. For a few drivers, this may be the priority, but in general, fast acceleration or top speed is usually impossible to achieve in practice. Nevertheless, performance parameters remain important factors when comparing vehicles.

It is undeniable that car headlights are essential for increasing and maintaining visibility while driving. However, if your car’s lights are not aimed in the right direction, they could actually make visibility more difficult for you and other road users. You must ensure that the angle is correct to avoid blinding other drivers and prevent collisions.

Lights often need to be realigned after being replaced, but they can also be affected by simple things such as heavy loads, tire pressure, minor collisions, and worn or damaged components. Even modern adaptive headlights require adjustment from time to time. Fortunately, most car owners will only need to adjust one set of headlights, as adjusting the low beams often resets the high beams.

Some vehicles are also equipped with bubble levels or diaphragms to make this task easier. This way, all you have to do is align the bubble or angle indicator with the reference marks. For vehicles that do not have these alignment features, there are a few additional steps to follow, which are outlined in the guide below. The adjustment process varies depending on the vehicle’s make and model. Therefore, it is advisable to read the manufacturer’s instructions in the vehicle owner’s manual before starting. Different countries will also have different regulations regarding cutoff lines for beams.

SIGNS OF MISALIGNED HEADLIGHTS

If other drivers frequently flash their lights at you when you are driving in the dark, it is probably because they are blinded by your lights or because there is a problem with the bulbs. If the headlights only illuminate 20 feet or less of the road ahead, they are aimed too low. If they are aimed at the ground, this can also cause glare due to reflection from the road, affecting the driver’s view.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

Essential items list:

HOW TO ADJUST HEADLIGHTS

1. Prepare the vehicle. The first step is to ensure that the tire pressure is correct and your fuel tank should be half full. Make sure to leave the items you normally carry inside your car where they are, including heavy tools and the spare tire, as this weight can change the tilt of your vehicle, affecting the beam angle.

   

2. Shake the suspension. To do this, you need to stand at the bumper support or grille support and bounce the vehicle up and down several times to ensure it settles into the correct position.
3. Park the vehicle. Park it as close as possible to the target wall/door, facing it head-on. It should also be parked on a flat surface. Measure the distance between the headlights and the target. The distance should be the same on both sides.
4. Turn on the low beams. Note: if you are doing this outside, you will need to wait until it is dark enough so that you can clearly see the headlights. Fog lights and high beams must remain off.
5. Mark the center lines. Use the tape around the center line of the beams on the wall/door. To mark the horizontal center line, place the first piece of tape directly above the top of the headlight pattern on the driver’s side, then do the same for the other headlight on the other side. Then, you will need to mark the vertical lines. Use the tape to mark the lines going down the center of the lights.
6. Reverse the vehicle. You will then need to reverse to about 8 meters (or 25 feet) from the target surface in a straight line. You can measure this distance using the measuring tape.
7. Locate and access the adjustment screws. The location should be specified in the owner’s manual.
8. Compare the beams with the marks and adjust the lights accordingly. For vertical adjustments, the top of the most intense point of the light beam should be below or aligned with the horizontal center line. You should refer to the vertical line when making horizontal adjustments. In countries with right-hand drive cars, such as the UK, the lights point to the left, while left-hand drive lights point to the right. The direction is important because if the lights are aimed in the wrong direction, it could affect oncoming traffic.

Have you thought about buying a new car? Brand and model have always been the first thing that comes to mind. Nowadays, we have to make another decision. Should I buy an electric or hybrid car? Here are some points to consider to help you make the right decision.

ELECTRIC CARS – ADVANTAGES

The development of electric cars is progressing more and more. Due to their advantages, more and more customers are enthusiastic about electric cars. There are several reasons for this; driving pleasure thanks to powerful acceleration from a complete stop and reduced noise. The main argument for buying an electric car is that it is environmentally friendly. The car becomes a purchase that is both a status symbol and an expression of one’s idealism. Thanks to the electric motor, which does not require combustion, no CO2 or other greenhouse gases are emitted. Even in the overall CO2 balance, which takes into account the entire lifespan of the electric car, it beats normal combustion engines.

The electric motor is also very energy efficient: integrated motors have an efficiency of up to 90%. This means that 90% of the energy input can also be used. This value is only 20 to 40% for combustion engines. Furthermore, electric cars do not consume oil in the form of gasoline or diesel, thus preserving this resource.

THE DISADVANTAGES

The range of electric cars is not yet close to that of diesel and gasoline. Electric cars are still more expensive than combustion engines, and recharging the batteries is not always easy. These are facts that still hinder the sale of electric and plug-in hybrid cars in most countries, but they are on the rise.

Most of the disadvantages of electric cars are due to the current state of technology. The most important cost factor remains the vehicle’s battery. The production of lithium-ion batteries, which are being installed, is not only expensive but also leaves a significant CO2 footprint that weighs on the overall environmental balance of electric cars.

HYBRID CARS – ADVANTAGES

Hybrid cars aim to combine the advantages of combustion engines and electric propulsion. Since an electric motor is already very efficient in the low-speed range, it is particularly well-suited for starting and low speeds. At high speeds, on the other hand, the combustion engine performs better. Most hybrid cars can automatically switch between the two engines or operate both together when it is most efficient.

With the synthesis of the two types of drive, fuel consumption and emissions can be reduced, dynamic driving performance created, and a long range achieved at a reasonable additional cost. The electric motor assists or replaces the combustion engine – especially when it is inefficient – and serves as a performance booster in certain situations.

THE DISADVANTAGES

Even before taking a closer look at a hybrid car, one thing immediately catches your attention: its high price. Many models are now offered in classic internal combustion engines and hybrid versions, and the price difference is often several thousand euros more for the hybrid model. One reason for this is that both electric technology and combustion technology need to be installed.

This brings us to the next disadvantage, weight. Precisely because both systems are installed, the hybrid weighs significantly more than a classic model. The extra weight becomes a problem especially when driving on the highway, as fuel consumption increases sharply here and can even be higher than that of a combustion model. Two systems also mean that more space is needed. The battery has to be stored somewhere, which is usually at the expense of the trunk space. The fuel tank is also smaller, and therefore the fuel is no longer sufficient for long journeys. From an ecological point of view, a hybrid is only cost-effective if you drive it for a long time and especially on short distances and in city traffic.

ELECTRIC OR HYBRID – WHICH IS THE BETTER OPTION?

An electric vehicle consumes up to 50% less energy than a hybrid. Studies show that operating an electric car produces up to 70% fewer greenhouse gases, nitrogen oxides, and particulates than a hybrid car. So, if you are concerned about emissions, you should invest in an electric vehicle.

Top 5 Rated Electric Vehicles in the UK:

Hyundai Ioniq 5 – With high charging speed, numerous assistance systems, and generous interior space, Hyundai is even tackling the electric luxury class.

Kia EV6 – The Kia EV6 is equipped with cutting-edge 800-volt technology and a bold design.

Skoda Enyaq – The Skoda benefits from its rear-wheel drive design, and winding maneuvers are no problem.

Tesla Model 3 – The “base model” of the rear-wheel drive Model 3 is quite impressive. The “Standard Range Plus” version offers 239 kW or 325 hp.
Ford Mustang Mach-E – It takes you through everyday life entirely electrically and impresses with its appearance, technology, and performance.

Top 5 Rated Hybrids in the UK:

Toyota Prius – It is still an aerodynamically optimized compact-class sedan.

Renault Captur – The entire powertrain offers agility, very good driving comfort, and enough power for all everyday situations.

Kia Niro PHEV – In terms of connectivity and assistance systems, the crossover is once again state-of-the-art, making it an attractive choice.

Skoda Octavia iV – The vehicle is striking with a lush grille and a touch of luxury inside.

BMW 330e – It may not be the most economical plug-in hybrid, but it offers a lot of dynamics with the concentrated power of its drive units.

Few things damage a car’s interior faster than water leaks. Water inside your car can cause foul odors of mold and mildew. In extreme cases, mold growth can be harmful to your health.

If you have water leaking into your cabin, don’t wait to fix the problem. Here are some common sources of interior water leaks.

Sources of Interior Water Leaks

1) Convertibles

If you have a soft-top convertible, you know how difficult it can be to keep water out of the car. Water often leaks through the windows into the cabin or through the seal where the top meets the windshield frame (at the top of the A-pillar).

Most convertibles offer several adjustments that allow the top to seal tightly against the windows and A-pillar. If your top doesn’t fit quite right, it may just need a simple adjustment. Punctured soft tops may need to be repaired or replaced.

The adjustment procedure will be different on each car. For example, early Mazda MX-5 Miatas allowed you to adjust the top latches and window height.

2) T-Tops, Removable Hard Tops, and Targa Tops

Similar to soft-top convertibles, T-tops, removable hard tops, and Targa tops all have sealing gaskets around the removable roof. Over time, these gaskets can deteriorate.

When transferring a top from one car to another, you may need to make slight adjustments to the latch tension to keep the top firmly attached to the car. Sometimes, replacing the weatherstripping is necessary.

3) Pressure Washing Past Seals

Pressure washing is a great way to detail a car, provided you use the pressure washer correctly. If you use the pressure washer too close to window seals or weatherstripping, or if you hold the pressure washer in one spot for too long, you risk forcing water inside.

If you’ve accidentally introduced water into the cabin, run the air conditioner for a while. This dries the air and helps remove excess water before it becomes a problem.

4) Sunroof Seals

Sunroofs and moonroofs have the unfortunate task of blocking rain, while being directly exposed to the worst weather 100% of the time.

Since sunroofs sit on top of the car, water must drain through rain rails. If these rails become clogged, you may notice water accumulating inside the car, particularly in the headliner.

While they make special tools to unclog sunroof drains, you might be able to unclog them yourself using a long piece of weed trimmer line and air from an air compressor.

5) Automatic Car Washes

Automatic car washes are convenient, but they aren’t particularly gentle on the car. Some touchless car washes spray water on the car at very high pressure.

After going through an automatic car wash, you might notice that a bit of water has seeped into the cabin. After checking that none of the windows are cracked, you can simply run the air conditioner for a while to dry the wet parts.

If you don’t notice any leaks until after you’ve been through a car wash, it’s probably not a cause for concern and isn’t something that needs to be fixed.

6) Air Conditioning Drain

When you run the air conditioner, condensation forms on the unit as it cools. This condensation needs a place to drain out of the car. Typically, you’ll notice a small puddle of water under the car after running the air conditioning.

When this drain is clogged, the condensation may have nowhere to go but inside the car. You might be able to unclog the drain by placing the drain under the car. Some vehicles will need to be lifted off the ground to give you enough space to do this.

7) Door Weather Stripping and Vapor Barrier

The weather stripping on your doors has two purposes: to eliminate noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH) and to seal out water. This rubber lining is very similar to what you’ll find on the sunroof, hatchback, or convertible top seals.

Doors also contain a vapor barrier behind the door panels. This plastic sheet prevents the door card from getting wet. The vapor barrier is glued to the door using a black sticky substance that sticks to everything (seriously, don’t get it in your hair).

Vapor barriers are often peeled back during aftermarket stereo installations, which weakens the bond between the barrier and the door. If you have a leak in your vapor barrier, you might want to remove the door card and check that you still have a vapor barrier and that it’s properly installed.

8) Windshield Molding

Windshields need to be both airtight and waterproof. Windshields are sealed in place using a combination of a windshield gasket and adhesive that holds them in place.

When this seal starts to fail, you might notice water on the dashboard or condensation on the edges of the windshield. You might also hear a whistling sound that gets louder as you drive faster, as air leaks past the seal.

9) Flying Water Bottles

This might seem silly, but before spending a lot of time or money looking for a problem, check that there are no liquid containers in the car that might have leaked. When driving, it’s quite easy for a water bottle to leak as it’s jostled by bumps in the road.

Conclusion

There are many causes of water leaks in a cabin, but you can usually tell where the leak is coming from. You’ll usually feel more moisture near the source of the leak. Many of these leaks can usually be fixed at home, and it’s often something you can do yourself at low cost.

According to the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration, there are approximately 11,000 accidents and 200 deaths each year that can be attributed to tire failure, the majority of which are caused by underinflated tires. To ensure optimal stability, control, handling, and braking performance, your tires must be consistently inflated to the optimal air pressure specified by your vehicle manufacturer.

To ensure this, most newer vehicles are equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system that displays a warning light on your dashboard when a tire is significantly low on air. However, there is a common problem of seeing the low tire pressure light, but the tires are fine.

So what is the reason for this issue and how to fix it? Continue reading to find out. However, before diving into the reasons why the tire pressure light keeps coming on and its solutions, you must first understand the basics of the technology measuring tire pressure inside the car.

Tire Pressure Monitoring System: What is it for?

Car tires must be properly inflated to the optimal air pressure specified by your vehicle manufacturer. Underinflated tires and overinflated tires can impair handling and braking, accelerate the wear of your tires and unevenly, and thus compromise your safety on the roads. Underinflated tires are more problematic and account for the majority of tire-related accidents. Underinflation means more contact with the road surface, leading to rapid heat buildup, which can, in the worst case, completely separate the tread from the wheel and make the vehicle uncontrollable.

You might know that most new vehicles are equipped with a TPMS, which stands for Tire Pressure Monitoring System, which is an electronic unit mounted on the tire rim. Its main function is to generate tire pressure information for the car’s computer system.

Note that such a system turns on a light on your dashboard to warn if a tire’s pressure is significantly lower than the recommended pressure specified by your vehicle manufacturer and does not allow you to check the exact pressure. So, just because the light is not on does not mean your tire pressure has been set correctly. Also note that if your car is from an older model year, it may not be equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system like newer models.

Available in two different technological forms, TPMS can either determine the pressure directly or calculate it indirectly using tire rotation information. When the car starts, the TPMS light normally comes on for a second or two. This indicator often looks like a tire seen from the front with an exclamation point inside. Sometimes it will simply say “TPMS”.

If a tire is underinflated, the dashboard TPMS light comes on. It may flash or stay on. So what causes the TPMS light to come on but the tires are fine?

Often, when the tires are not flat or underinflated, the low pressure light on the dashboard comes on. There are many perfect reasons why this might happen:

Extreme Cold Weather

It is quite common for the low tire pressure light to come on, but the tires are fine problem to occur on very cold winter mornings. Hot air expands, takes up more space, and is less dense, but inside the confined space of a tire, this expansion means increased air pressure. In contrast, cold air becomes denser and takes up less space, so inside a tire, this condensation means a decrease in air pressure.

A car tire may measure 30 PSI at 80-degree temperatures during the day, but early the next morning when the temperature drops to 30 degrees because it is often colder at night, it may return a reading of only 25 PSI.

On days when the temperature varies considerably, say about 40 to 50 degrees F between day and night, your tire pressure can vary by about 3 PSI to 5 PSI. This is why it is quite normal that, on a cold winter morning, your dashboard’s low pressure light comes on, but once you start driving, the tires warm up. The air inside the tire will expand, thus increasing the air pressure and the light will go out. So, you see the low tire pressure light, but the tires are fine.

However, if the light does not go out once the tires are warmed up, you should grab your pressure gauge to measure the exact pressure of your tires and inflate them to the correct optimal pressure level.

Recent Tire Rotation or Replacement

As mentioned earlier, the TPMS is located on the tire rim. So, there is a chance that this electronic unit could be damaged during the tire rotation or replacement process. So, whenever you are going to change a car’s tires, check on the spot for the low tire pressure light but tires are good problem to avoid the hassle of returning to the auto shop later.

Furthermore, you might replace old tires with a different tire that does not have a TPMS like the others, or that does not have the correct TPMS as specified by your car manufacturer. When this happens, it is as if your vehicle needs to go through a relearning process, which can trigger the TPMS light but the tire pressure is good.

In this case, all it takes to turn off the light is to take your vehicle for a relaxed drive at a constant speed for about 10 minutes. If this does not solve the problem, you will probably need to take your car to a mechanic for external recalibration.

Faulty TPMS Sensor

If you have used a pressure gauge and confirmed that all four tires are properly inflated to the optimal level specified by your car manufacturer, but every time you start the car, the pressure light comes on and stays on, it means the TPMS is not working properly. In this case, it is best to consult a mechanic to inspect and possibly replace the TPMS.

Physical sensors are subject to wear and tear over time, especially the seals, gaskets, valve caps, or sensor core. These sensors also run on onboard batteries, which have a limited lifespan of about 5 to 7 years (up to 10 years in the best case). Low battery power and age-related wear can cause the TPMS sensor to malfunction and cause the low tire pressure light, but tires are fine problem.

Another reason for TPMS sensor malfunction is the presence of a substance other than air or nitrogen in the tire, such as tire repair sealants used when fixing a flat tire.

Forgotten Spare Tire

You might have just swapped your spare tire, which has been sitting for a while without attention or care. Not all spare tires are equipped with TPMS, but if it is and the tire pressure in the spare tire is too low, it can trigger the warning light.

Almost all tires gradually lose air pressure over time through the inflation valve, even with a spare tire or if the vehicle is stored and rarely driven. There is a cap, but the role of the valve stem dust cap is to keep dirt out rather than better keeping air in. So, although it is recommended to check your tire pressure at least once a month, it is still a good idea to check your spare tire as well and inflate it to the optimal pressure so that you always have a properly inflated spare tire to swap at any time.

Air Loss Due to Physical Impacts

A sudden loss of air pressure in tires is quite common and can cause the TPMS light to come on even if you just properly inflated your tires a few days ago. The pressure loss is likely caused by driving on very rough terrain or hitting a curb, which can cause the momentary separation of the seal between the tire and the rim, thus letting a small amount of air escape.

Other common reasons for air leaks that can cause the low tire pressure light, but tires are fine problem, include damage to the wheel rim due to physical impacts on the road like flying pebbles or debris, or a faulty tire valve that bleeds air gradually.

Low Tire Pressure Light But Tires Are Fine: How to Fix It

Now that we are well informed about the causes of the low tire pressure light but tires are in good condition, let’s address this issue.

You have the choice to reset the TPMS yourself or seek professional help. But be aware that by law, any auto shop must fix the problem before letting you go. So, in the rare cases where troubleshooting and repair take longer than expected, your car will be held hostage until the issue is resolved.

Locate the Reset Button

Placed inside the glove box (a compartment inside the dashboard), you can easily find it in front of the passenger seat. In case you cannot locate it, find the button with “SET” marked on it or consult the car manual.

Note: The position of this button may vary depending on the car’s make and model.

Press the Reset Button

The next step in the process is to press the located button for three seconds. Once the light flashes three times on the dashboard, it means the TPMS is reset. After that, turn off the engine and restart it after five seconds (from the time the light flashes).

This would solve the problem. But, it is important here to note that the TPMS reset process may vary depending on the car model. Therefore, consult the vehicle manual before proceeding.

However, if the above solution does not work for you, take your car to the nearest mechanic for a thorough inspection.

Sometimes, you can’t do it yourself…

Some vehicles like Subarus do not allow you to reset your TPMS sensors yourself. You will need a special tool, which is only available at auto repair shops, auto parts stores, and tire dealers.

In this case, the TPMS sensor receives a unique identifier that must be registered with the ECU, along with pressure information as well as the position and temperature of the tires at that time. Once you rotate or replace your tire, to fill your tire, one or more of this information changes, which requires the sensor to be recalibrated with the special tool above.

Having your car shut off while driving is a dangerous situation. There are several reasons for this headache. Discover the most likely culprits for random car stalling, how to fix it and avoid it in the future with proper car maintenance, and the steps to take to ensure your safety and that of others on the road when your car shuts off while you’re driving in traffic.

In this article, we will address the issue of the car shutting off while driving. It’s a different matter than when your car shuts off after you stop. This happens when the engine is very sensitive at idle and can be caused by many things, but the most common reasons are a faulty throttle body or a lean fuel mixture that causes the idle to drop too low.

7 Reasons Why Your Car Shuts Off While Driving

Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor

One of the most common reasons for the car stalling problem while driving is a faulty crankshaft position sensor. The role of the crankshaft position sensor is to monitor the many moving parts of the engine, including the crankshaft, engine valves, and pistons. It tracks the speed and location of the crankshaft to facilitate optimal timing of fuel injection and ignition.

In short, this mechanism is essential for optimal engine performance. A failing crankshaft position sensor cannot provide the correct information about the piston positioning in the engine to the engine control unit, causing a cylinder misfire.

If the crankshaft position sensor is not working properly, the check engine light may come on. Another sign that the crankshaft position sensor is faulty is that the tachometer does not work correctly. The tachometer is the gauge usually located next to your speedometer on your dashboard that reads the RPMs in your car. The tachometer usually increases every time you rev your engine. When the intended speed is reached, the tachometer stays in place.

After receiving engine speed information from the crankshaft position sensor, the ECU will then relay the information to the tachometer. So, if the crankshaft position sensor is faulty, it will send incorrect and abnormal data to the ECU, which will then be relayed and cause the tachometer to start erratically or sporadically.

Other common symptoms of a faulty crankshaft position sensor are that fuel efficiency will be compromised and the engine might run very roughly, misfire before stalling completely while driving.

One way to check if your crankshaft position sensor is faulty is to use an OBD scanner and read the error codes from the ECU. If you get diagnostic codes between P0335 and P0338, your crankshaft position sensor has a problem. Although an OBD scanner won’t help you pinpoint the exact problem, it is still a great tool for identifying culprits.

Faulty Engine Control Unit

Another source of problems that can cause the car to stall while driving and the Check Engine light to come on is a faulty Engine Control Unit (ECU) or Powertrain Control Module. Your car’s ECU is a computer that collects information from different parts of an internal combustion engine to ensure that the entire system is working properly, optimally, and accurately to maximize efficiency.

A faulty ECU can cause sudden drops in power, fuel efficiency, and loss of spark, causing your car to randomly stall and restart. Another common symptom of a faulty ECU is your car stalling and jerking while driving. The check engine light may also come on on your dashboard.

Unfortunately, testing and inspecting your ECU is not easy. A check engine light does not necessarily mean an ECU problem. If you want to try to troubleshoot it yourself, the only thing you can do is use an OBD scanner to see what diagnostic code you get. However, the code may still not be clear for a failing ECU. Your only option is to take it to a professional mechanic. A mechanic will have the right tools, software, and understanding to diagnose your ECU.

Faulty Alternator

Your car’s alternator is responsible for producing a constant flow of electricity from the car’s mechanical energy. It uses this electrical energy to operate various electrical components such as dashboard lights, dome lights, the air conditioning unit, the stereo system, … and to charge the battery. If, for some reason, the alternator is not doing its job properly, your car will not receive the electrical energy it needs, leading to the problem of the car stalling while driving. When this happens, you get a flashing dash.

It is important to note that if your battery is working properly and can step in to provide power after your alternator dies, your car may still run for a while without an alternator, so you might not realize right away what you’re dealing with.

But your car can only last a short period when running on battery, as the battery is not designed to power the entire car. Once your battery dies, your car stalls and eventually shuts off completely.

If you pay enough attention to how your car is running, you should be able to detect when an alternator is not working properly, meaning your car will start to receive intermittent power. In any case, a basic car maintenance job is to use a multimeter or voltmeter to test your battery with your alternator at regular intervals, say every 4 to 6 months.

To test an alternator, let the engine idle, turn off all lights, including the dashboard, and all accessories like the stereo system that may consume electricity. Perform the battery test with the multimeter. A good alternator should produce between 13.1 V and 14.6 V at normal idle. If not, you should have it further inspected by a professional.

Next, test the alternator to see if it will function properly under heavy use. Have your assistant rev the engine to 2,000 RPM. Turn on all accessories, including headlights, interior lights, radio, windshield wipers… and plug the voltmeter back in. If it reads 13.0 volts and above, the alternator is powerful enough. Anything below 13.0 signals a faulty alternator that needs to be replaced. Make sure you have the best catalytic converters.

Empty Fuel Tank but Faulty Fuel Gauge

You might be surprised to learn that thousands of people every year have their car shut off while driving due to an empty fuel tank. While some may be too busy or forgetful to regularly check the fuel level and refuel as soon as possible, there are cases where your fuel gauge is faulty and does not indicate the actual fuel level in the tank.

One of the common reasons you have a faulty fuel gauge is due to a failure of the sending unit. This will usually cause your fuel gauge to stick in one position regardless of the fuel level, which is usually at the “F” or “E” mark in most cases.

If you think there is a problem with your fuel gauge or fuel level sensor, try filling up 1 gallon or 4 liters of gasoline to see if your car restarts.

Clogged or Faulty Fuel Pump or Fuel System

If your car shuts off while driving but suddenly restarts, it can often be due to a bad fuel pump. Your engine needs a precise fuel supply at a precise time as input for combustion to generate power, and the fuel pump is the part that supplies the engine with the right amount of fuel. If the engine does not receive the right amount of fuel at the right time, the engine stalls, and when this happens, it feels a lot like your car running out of gas. The bad news is that if you are dealing with a faulty fuel pump, there is no workaround for it. You will have to repair or replace it.

Another reason could be that your fuel filter is clogged. The role of the fuel filter is to clean the fuel entering the engine. Over time, it can become clogged with contaminants in old gasoline, so the fuel pump cannot pump the sufficient amount of fuel through it, spoiling the engine’s ability to produce power and shutting off your car while driving.

If your fuel filter is made of nylon or paper, you should simply replace it, which is cheap. If it is metal, you can simply clean it and reuse it.

Most fuel pumps are installed inside the fuel tank. A quick way to check if the fuel pump is really the culprit when your car shuts off while driving is to kick the fuel tank. If the car starts then, there is most likely a problem with your fuel pump. But don’t hit it hard with a metal tool because the tank is plastic and you wouldn’t want to damage it.

Faulty Ignition Switch

When you turn the key to start the car, the ignition switch, which is installed behind the ignition lock, is turned. Inside the ignition switch are many small metal plates that can rust over time. When this happens, one of these plates may lose connection and all contact will be cut off. Or the ignition relay may deteriorate and the mechanism that controls the amount of electricity passing through them will stop working. These will cause the engine to shut off abruptly while driving.

Fortunately, it is quite easy to check if a faulty ignition switch is the reason your car shuts off while driving. When the car shuts off, check if there are still any lights on your dashboard. If the dashboard instrument is dead, a faulty ignition switch is likely. And put your car keys back in the ignition after the car has stalled and try to turn them. If it doesn’t start the engine, you probably have an ignition failure.

Faulty Spark Plugs

The tiny spark plugs are another essential component that allows your engine to generate power. They are the parts that ignite the air-fuel mixture in the engine’s combustion chamber to generate combustions. Each cylinder has its own spark plug.

If you only have one faulty spark plug, you can still start your car and drive. But when more than one spark plug is malfunctioning, your car may start, but it probably won’t run for long. Several faulty spark plugs will cause your engine to stall and shut off while driving.

Before your engine shuts off completely and leaves you stranded, in most cases, there are other telltale signs you need to watch out for, including reduced engine performance, lack of acceleration, engine misfires, and engine knocking.

If you experience these symptoms, it is quite easy to determine if you have a bad spark plug: you just need to locate and inspect them. Once you can physically see your spark plugs, you can determine the condition of your spark plugs. A bad spark plug is one that is blistered because it overheated or is covered with a substance like oil, fuel, or carbon.

Steps to Take When Your Car Shuts Off While Driving

Needless to say, having your car shut off while you’re driving can leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere or become a safety hazard if you are driving at high speed or on the highway with heavy traffic. Follow the steps below to ensure your safety as well as that of other vehicles on the road:

Pull Your Car Over to the Side of the Road

The very first thing you need to do when your car shuts off while driving is to try not to panic and guide your car to the side of the road or onto the shoulder. As you slow down to a stop, pull over to prevent vehicles behind you from crashing into the rear, as cars on the highway often travel at high speed. Note that your car will lose the ability to brake and steer, but this is your only course of action.

In the case where slowing your car down is too difficult, try to find a safe spot in sight on the side of the road to guide your car, then engage the emergency brake. This will cause a sudden stop, but it is a hundred times better than stalling abruptly in the middle of the road.

Try to Restart Your Car

Now that your car is safely on the side of the road, the next step is to check if you can restart your car so you can at least get to the nearest auto repair shop. If you are lucky and can determine or narrow down the culprit, you might in some cases be able to get your car started again.

Use Hazard Lights to Alert Other Drivers

But if you cannot restart your vehicle, you must use your hazard lights to inform other drivers that your car is stationary and that you won’t end up in traffic. This will keep you safe while you determine the next steps.

Call Your Emergency Number or a Roadside Assistance Service

When a car is stranded on the road and there is no help in sight, it is best to seek help from an emergency number or a roadside assistance service like AAA, which usually have 24/7 assistance. Alternatively, if you cannot reach either, be aware that the police can also help you contact roadside assistance if you have no service or your phone is dead, and they will ensure your car is safe.

And if you are a bit lucky, your car may shut off while driving but restart so you can get home, you can use an OBD2 scanner at the first opportunity to check for fault codes in the engine control unit. Continue diagnosing the fault code if you get one.