Although modern cars are much more effectively protected against rust through the use of resistant materials and protective coatings, no car is completely safe from this deadly killer. What starts as a small brown spot can spread quickly and become a much more serious problem. The longer you wait, the more it will eat away at your vehicle’s body and chassis, leading to costly repairs or an irreparable mess. For this reason, rust prevention is an essential element of car maintenance that every car owner must pay attention to.

WHAT CAUSES RUSTING?

Rust occurs when iron or an iron-containing material is exposed to moisture, causing oxidation. This reaction produces iron oxide (rust). The rate at which automotive parts rust often depends on a series of factors, including the vehicle’s age, climate, alloy elements, and heat treatment processes.

If the car is driven and stored in a cold, wet, or humid environment, the risk of rust increases due to exposure to rain, snow, sleet, and ice. Road salts used to melt snow contaminants also accelerate the rusting process when they dissolve in water.

Paint acts as a protective layer on the body; however, over time, it chips and the protective coating breaks down, leaving the body exposed to moisture and contaminants. Older cars are generally more susceptible to rust because they are made from less resistant materials and do not have as much corrosion protection.

WARNING SIGNS

THE 3 TYPES OF RUST

There are three types or stages of rust that vary in terms of severity and aggressiveness. Identifying which stage the corrosion is at should help you find the right solution to remove or repair it.

HOW TO REMOVE SURFACE RUST FROM A CAR

The Essentials

The Procedure

1. Remove Rust, Paint, and Primer
   This can be done by hand starting with coarse 80-grit sandpaper and a wire brush, or by using an angle grinder and a disc. Using a machine will be more effective at removing stubborn layers and saving time. Sand carefully and thoroughly for a smooth finish. To remove rust from hard-to-reach areas or crevices, you can use a wire brush to remove rust and grime. Alternatively, you can choose to use a rust remover that can be applied with a brush or cloth. However, the product instructions must be followed carefully so that no damage is caused to the vehicle or the person repairing it. Clean the area to remove dirt and metal chips, then make sure it is completely dry before moving on to the next step.
2. Section Off the Area
   Use masking tape and paper to section off the area that needs to be primed and painted so that the rest of the surface is protected.
3. Apply the Primer
   You will first need to use a self-etching primer or one suitable for direct contact with metal. Spray the primer evenly and in thin layers, then let it dry. After the first coat, use a wet sanding method to ensure the surface is smooth and the edges are unified. It is best to use fine-grit sandpaper (400) for this step. Clean the area and let it dry before applying the second coat. Once this coat is dry, use a wet piece of 600-grit sandpaper to smooth it again before applying another coat of primer. You can choose to cover this with a surfacing primer for added protection.
4. Spray on the Base Coat
   Usually, car surfaces only need two to three coats of base paint for good, even coverage. Make sure to keep the coats thin to avoid drips. Once dry, you can also use a rubbing or polishing compound to give it a shinier finish. This can also help you blend the new paint with the original paint.
5. Apply a Clear Coat
   For the final step, you can apply an additional clear coat of paint that can help the paint last longer by providing extra protection against UV rays and harsh weather.
   Removing scale rust involves additional steps because it often leaves tiny holes in the metal. These need to be filled before being repainted.

HOW TO STOP A CAR FROM RUSTING

Best Tips:

4motion is the patented name for the all-wheel drive systems found on Volkswagen cars. It has been used since 1998. Previously, all-wheel drive versions were called “Syncro.” Increased off-road capability on rough terrain and loose or slippery surfaces is one of the main advantages of this system.

HOW IT WORKS

Full-time 4motion can be found on vehicles equipped with longitudinal engines. It uses a Torsen limited-slip differential. This distributes engine torque based on road conditions, transferring the most to the axle with better traction.

An electronically controlled Haldex multi-plate clutch is part of the on-demand system. Under normal conditions, all torque is distributed only to the front axle. If the front wheels start to slip, the rear wheels are engaged, and for short periods, up to 100% of the torque can be distributed to them.

Part-time 4×4 is less common. It is activated by the driver and provides a rigid connection between the front and rear axles. It is designed only for off-road driving and driving on slippery surfaces.

VOLKSWAGEN MODELS EQUIPPED WITH 4MOTION

There are many things to consider when buying a new car. How is the handling? What about the power and acceleration? How comfortable is it to drive? One of the most common questions is how much will it cost to run? And that’s an incredibly important question. In recent years, there have been perfectly designed, attractive, and comfortable cars that consistently received poor ratings because they are simply too expensive to use.

Most of the time, this comes down to them being “gas guzzlers,” meaning they have extremely high fuel consumption. Given the high and unpredictable price of gasoline and diesel, the energy efficiency of cars has become a key indicator to help you choose the right car for you. That’s why we have MPG and why almost every review of a vehicle will mention what its MPG is. But what is this value, can I calculate it for my existing vehicle, and how useful can it be when buying a new car?

WHAT IS MPG?

MPG stands for miles per gallon and it’s the standard unit for measuring fuel consumption in land vehicles. The figure shows the number of miles a car can travel on one gallon of fuel. For example, if your car has a fuel consumption of 50 mpg and its fuel tank holds one gallon (or 4.55 liters), you can travel 50 miles before the car runs out of fuel.

By law, every car must receive an official MPG value from the manufacturer, and this must also be made available to customers. This acts as a guide so consumers can compare energy efficiency between different models and vehicles. The EU sets the standards for British vehicles, and the tests are administered in the UK by the Vehicle Certification Agency. Because they are all standardized, they provide an accurate comparison between cars. If you’re buying a new car and looking to get something more efficient, it’s always a good idea to ask what my car’s MPG is right now and whether this car will have a better one.

HOW IS MPG CALCULATED?

The official MPG is calculated from a laboratory test on a rolling road. A single model is tested in each product range. A car is tested on two cycles: the urban cycle and the extra-urban cycle. The urban cycle test starts from a cold engine and then mimics city driving at speeds not exceeding 30 mph. This test lasts 2 and a half minutes and includes a series of stops and starts to recreate the type of driving needed in urban areas. The extra-urban test is designed to see how a car would behave outside the city and lasts 4.3 miles with a maximum speed of 70 mph. The temperature is standardized to 20-30 degrees, and there is only the driver in the car. The MPG stated by a manufacturer is then an average of the two MPG figures from these two tests.

HOW DOES THIS DIFFER IN REALITY?

Since MPG is done under hypothetical laboratory conditions, there will always be a difference between a car’s official calculated mileage (calculated under the official EU-regulated test conditions) and what you can actually achieve while driving.

MPG figures can still be used for comparison purposes, but they won’t be very helpful if you’re trying to determine how much a car will actually cost you, because the average miles per gallon in the real world will differ from the manufacturer’s value.

The amount of gasoline you’ll need for 100 miles will always be different on the road because the test removes variables such as hills, uneven road surfaces, and does not account for different driving styles, passenger weight, cargo carried, wind resistance, or any modifications made to a car.

For example, fitting larger wheels means the car will be heavier, generate more aerodynamic drag, and have more rolling resistance than standard wheels, so your car’s fuel economy will be worse.

HOW TO CALCULATE ACCURATE FUEL CONSUMPTION RATES

Even though the test is not entirely reliable, it is possible to calculate fuel costs yourself. It’s relatively simple and can teach you how to reduce fuel consumption and save money.

The simplest way is to fill up your car’s gas tank and note your current mileage. Decide whether you’re going to focus on urban, extra-urban, or general fuel consumption and drive normally under the desired conditions. When you’re ready to calculate your car’s MPG, fill up the tank again and note the number of liters of fuel it took to fill to the limit, as well as the number of miles traveled since the first fill-up.

Since we fill our tanks in liters, we’ll need to convert this figure to gallons. So, divide the mileage by the number of liters used, then to convert to MPG, multiply it by 4.546. You now have the true MPG of your car.

It’s important to note that if you want to compare it to the official statistics, you should try to stick to their test conditions (including the speeds used and the types of roads you’re testing on). All of this can be made easier if you have a built-in or aftermarket onboard computer. Many of them often automatically display the MPG at the end of a trip.

TIPS TO IMPROVE YOUR FUEL ECONOMY

From how you drive to what you keep in your car, here are 10 tips to reduce your fuel costs:

1. Lighten your car: Get rid of all unnecessary items in the trunk or back seat of your car. For every 45 kg of weight in the vehicle, your car’s fuel economy decreases by about one or two percent.
2. Keep your tires properly inflated: Underinflated tires can reduce your car’s fuel economy by up to five percent in some cases due to their insufficient traction on the road and increased resistance. Ensuring they are at the recommended pressure can save you money.

   

3. Observe the speed limit: This is not only related to safety, because observing the speed limit also helps you maintain good fuel economy. Driving faster often means your fuel consumption will be worse because the engine has to work harder to produce the power needed for high speeds.
4. Avoid idling: When your car is running but not moving, your gasoline mileage is absolutely zero, but fuel is still burned to keep the engine running. So, if your car is going to be stationary for more than about a minute, turn off the engine. However, only do this if you can do so safely.
5. Regular braking and acceleration: While driving, always apply steady and constant pressure to your car’s accelerator pedal. A heavy foot will always lead to reduced gasoline mileage and low fuel consumption.
6. Make your car more aerodynamic: Removing roof racks and reducing the car’s weight by removing unnecessary items or changing tires or rims can allow the car to move through the air better and reduce drag, meaning it takes less fuel to get you where you need to go.
7. Use cruise control on highways: Cruise control means your car will go at a constant speed, meaning there is no acceleration. The absence of acceleration reduces the amount of work your engine does and thus consumes less fuel.

   

8. Keep the windows closed: This can be difficult if it’s very hot outside, but keeping the windows closed makes your vehicle more aerodynamic and improves your car’s energy efficiency. Especially at higher speeds, you should keep the windows closed to reduce drag and improve fuel consumption.
9. Use air conditioning less: There will always be times when you need to turn on the air conditioning, but you should try to use it in moderation.
10. Replace dirty air filters: A dirty air filter makes your car’s engine work much harder and has a real negative impact on your fuel economy. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations to periodically change the air filter.

How Fuel Additives Can Help Diesel Engines

Diesel engine vehicles typically operate more efficiently than their gasoline engine counterparts, but the nature of diesel fuel can cause drivability issues. Diesel fuel additives can help, but only as a short-term solution.

Water and Dirt in Diesel Fuel

Diesel problems can start even before the fuel is pumped into your tank. Diesel fuel delivered to gas stations is not necessarily clean and free of contaminants. In a 2016 study, Donaldson Filtration Solutions found that a single delivery of 7,500 gallons of diesel fuel contained one to two gallons of water and a cup of dirt. Once delivered, even more water and contaminants can be added to the fuel due to poorly maintained storage tanks at fuel retailers.

Fortunately, diesel fuel systems have water separators to extract moisture and fuel filters to capture other contaminants, and both protect expensive fuel injection components and help prevent problems. Critical maintenance steps for diesel engines include periodically draining the water separator and replacing the fuel filter.

Be Aware of Diesel Engine Drivability Issues

Even if you maintain proper maintenance and use high-quality diesel fuel, your engine may still encounter drivability issues.

• Microbial Growth – If too much water accumulates in the fuel tank, it can “fall out” and settle at the bottom of the tank. When this happens, bacteria and fungi in the fuel can multiply, forming a black slime that can clog fuel lines and filters.
• Freezing – Water retained in the fuel tank or water separator can freeze in winter, blocking fuel flow and preventing the vehicle from starting.
• Fuel Gelling – Diesel fuel contains paraffins that freeze in cold weather, forming a wax-like substance that blocks fuel flow. This occurs at lower temperatures than freezing.
• Fuel Stability – Diesel fuel stored for long periods can become unstable and break down, forming gums that clog fuel filters and create deposits in the fuel injector and combustion chamber.

Diesel fuel additives help combat these issues. Automakers, however, caution against using additives as short-term solutions for specific problems, and not on an ongoing basis.

What to Know When Using Diesel Fuel Additives

• Measure twice and treat once. Additives are designed to work with specific amounts of fuel. For example, 16 ounces of additive can treat 30 gallons of diesel fuel. Over-treating a fuel system with too much additive can damage expensive fuel injectors and the injection pump.
• Get more for your money. Many additives bundle multiple treatments into one product. For example, a diesel fuel “conditioner” may include water absorption capability, an anti-gel agent, and a fuel stability enhancer in a single bottle.
• A wide range of high-quality diesel fuel additives are available on the aftermarket. Before purchasing a product, check your owner’s manual for specific precautions regarding the use of additives.
• Automakers test and recommend their own brand of diesel fuel additives or those from a designated supplier. Remember that using an unapproved additive may void the fuel system or engine warranty if a problem can be linked to the additive.

More and more new cars are equipped with advanced driver assistance systems (ADAS). Some of the most common include:

• Forward collision warning
• Automatic emergency braking
• Adaptive cruise control
• Lane departure warning
• Lane keeping assist
• Blind spot monitoring
• Rear cross traffic alert
• Parking assist/self-parking
• Adaptive headlights that steer with the vehicle
• Automatic high beam headlight activation and dimming

To do their job, ADAS rely on inputs from a variety of sensors that allow the systems to “see” what is happening around the automobile. The most common are cameras, radars, and ultrasonic sensors. Steering sensors are also used to help determine the vehicle’s direction of travel. Some systems use information from a single type of sensor, but others combine information from multiple sensors – a process called sensor fusion – to get a more accurate “view” of the situation.

Most ADAS sensors are very precisely targeted and require calibration if their positions are disturbed in any way. Consider that a sensor on the car that is misaligned by a fraction of an inch or even one degree will be aimed at a significantly off-axis area 50 feet or more down the road. Misaligned sensors often result from collisions – even a small fender bender can misalign ADAS sensors. However, calibration may also be necessary as a byproduct of routine maintenance work such as windshield replacement, suspension repair, or wheel alignment.

Failure to calibrate a sensor when needed can result in erroneous information that will cause the ADAS to operate incorrectly or not at all. A faulty sensor input can result in:

• A warning light or message on the dashboard
• A diagnostic trouble code (DTC) stored in the vehicle’s computer memory
• Steering wheel vibration
• Vehicle steering pull
• Increased steering effort

Issues like these can cause a driver to lose confidence in a car’s ability to provide safe transportation. ADAS failures can also raise questions about the quality of an auto repair shop’s work.

The most common types of ADAS sensors are cameras, radars, ultrasonic emitters, and steering angle sensors. Here is more information on each.

Many vehicles are equipped with forward-facing camera sensors. These sensors are commonly used for automatic emergency braking, adaptive cruise control, lane departure warning, lane keeping assist, and automatic high beam headlight activation and dimming.

Figure 2. Subaru’s ADAS dual camera system. (Photo: Subaru)

Because cameras are optical devices that must be able to “see” the road, it is generally easy to identify when a car is equipped with this type of sensor. Many camera sensors mount against the inside of the windshield as part of an assembly integrated with the rearview mirror; others attach to the interior of the roof, either directly or as part of a mirror housing. Some automakers, including Subaru and Land Rover, use two cameras spaced apart from each other to improve depth perception.

The high-definition image receivers used in camera sensors are not so different from those found in other digital camera applications. What makes ADAS camera sensors unique are the high-power microprocessors and advanced data processing algorithms that are built into the assembly. These components transform the constantly changing analog image that the camera sees into digital information that ADAS can use to control various safety-critical systems.

Camera sensors “see” the world through the windshield and are designed for specific rates of light transmission through glass that has minimal imperfections and distortion. A problem in any of these areas can interfere with a sensor’s ability to provide accurate information. For this reason, many automakers specify that only an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) windshield should be used if replacement is necessary on a car with a camera sensor. In fact, some car dealerships will refuse to calibrate a camera sensor on a car where an aftermarket windshield is installed.

Some newer cars are equipped with 360-degree surround view camera systems that use multiple small cameras at the front, rear, and sides of the vehicle to display a bird’s-eye view of the immediate area around the vehicle. These are simpler, lower-resolution cameras than those used for ADAS, although they also require calibration. The cameras are typically located in the bumpers or front grille, under the side mirrors, and in the trunk lid or tailgate. The computer controlling the system “stitches” the multiple images together to provide a seamless overall view displayed on the infotainment screen in the dashboard.

Adaptive cruise control, forward collision warning, and automatic emergency braking are the ADAS most commonly associated with forward-facing radar sensors. The millimeter-wave radar sensors used on vehicles transmit a high-frequency radio signal that reflects off objects and returns to the sensor. The time it takes to receive a return signal is used to calculate the car’s distance to an object.

Figure 3. This “see-through” image shows how a radar sensor can be positioned behind a solid plastic cover in the grille. (Photo: Mercedes-Benz)

Radar sensors are typically mounted in or behind the front bumper or grille. In a few cases, the radar sensor is mounted in the front camera housing in front of the rearview mirror. Radio waves can pass through glass and plastic bumper covers or grille materials, and the sensor usually has a cover to protect it from stones and other road debris. While many radar sensors are center-mounted, others are offset to one side of the automobile, which affects the calibration process.

Because they are sometimes hidden, determining if a vehicle is equipped with a radar sensor can be more difficult than identifying the presence of a camera sensor. If an external visual inspection does not indicate the presence of a sensor, opening the hood might reveal one. Another method is to check for adaptive cruise control switches inside the car (usually on the steering wheel) or a warning light for an automatic emergency braking and/or adaptive cruise control system that illuminates on the dashboard as a test when the car is first started.

Some rear collision warning and blind spot monitoring systems use small radar sensors mounted under the side mirrors, behind the rear bumper cover, or even in the taillights. Sensors mounted on bumpers and taillights can also provide rear cross traffic alerts when backing out of parking spaces.

To avoid potential interference, most automakers do not allow repairs on the areas of bumper covers that are in front of radar sensors. They also recommend using only OEM covers to ensure that the materials used will not interfere with the sensor signals. Excessive thickness of bumper cover paint can also be an issue on some vehicles, and automakers advise against placing bumper stickers anywhere near radar sensors.

Ultrasonic sensors are primarily used for parking assist and self-parking systems. These sensors are installed in the front and/or rear bumper covers where they use reflected high-frequency sound waves (in a manner similar to radar) to detect people, cars, and other objects near the vehicle. Sensors of this type on the sides of cars are used in some self-parking systems and can serve as additional sensors in blind spot monitoring systems.

Figure 4. An ultrasonic sensor on the edge of a wheel well opening. (Image: Wikipedia, Basotxerri, CC BY-SA 4.0)

ADAS ultrasonic sensors do not require calibration. However, they are designed to be in very precise positions in the bumper cover, or anywhere else they are mounted. For this reason, some automakers do not approve the use of aftermarket, remanufactured, or recycled body parts, which may be warped or lack pre-drilled holes in the appropriate locations for sensor mounting. Although most ultrasonic sensors broadcast a symmetrical circular sound pattern, some generate an asymmetrical oval pattern that requires them to be mounted with a specific orientation to function correctly.

Steering angle sensors are used in lane departure warning, lane keeping, and adaptive headlight ADAS. The information they provide is also used for other safety and performance-related systems, such as electronic stability control and adaptive suspensions. These sensors are typically integrated into the steering column and measure the degree of rotation of the steering wheel.

ADAS sensor calibration is required whenever a sensor’s aim is disturbed in any way. This can occur during a collision, even a slight fender bender, or be a byproduct of routine maintenance work such as windshield replacement, suspension repairs, or wheel alignment. Calibration is also necessary whenever a sensor or its mounting bracket is removed and replaced, there is a tire size change, a front airbag deploys and deflects off the windshield, or repairs are made to a car roof on which a sensor mount is located. Finally, sensor calibration is necessary when there is an associated DTC in the car’s computer memory or an automaker issues a technical service bulletin with instructions for calibration to be performed as part of another repair.

Replacing and calibrating sensors is often part of collision repairs. Automakers recommend that body shops now perform a full diagnostic scan on each vehicle before repairs begin, and then again once the work is completed. This will help the body shop better understand the extent of any issues before work begins, and then confirm that all issues have been resolved, ADAS sensor calibrations are complete, and the vehicle’s control systems are communicating correctly before the car is returned to the customer.

ADAS sensor calibration is a precision process that is often complex and time-consuming. Some sensors can be calibrated in a repair shop, others require a vehicle to be driven, and many sensors require both procedures. The time required can range from 15 minutes to an hour or more, depending on specific calibration requirements. When necessary, this additional labor adds to the cost of repairs.

Due to the challenges involved, many auto repair shops and windshield installers currently send cars to the dealership when ADAS sensor calibration is required. Independent service providers who wish to perform sensor calibrations must invest considerably in these necessary tools:

• Service information that describes the equipment and procedures needed to calibrate ADAS sensors on a given vehicle year, make, and model. This information may be available on the aftermarket, but sometimes must be obtained from the automaker. ADAS sensor calibration requirements can be determined by performing an OEM Calibration Requirements Lookup or by using links to OEM Service Information. Both options incur a cost for the maintenance shop.
• A car computer scan tool that supports ADAS sensor calibration. Factory scan tools can handle the necessary operations for all vehicles and sensors of a specific automaker. The capabilities of aftermarket scan tools vary widely, but some devices will work with certain vehicles and sensors from a number of different automakers. Special tools designed exclusively for ADAS sensor alignment are also available, but as with aftermarket scan tools, the extent of vehicle coverage varies.
• A large, flat, paved indoor area with non-glare lighting and a background free of clutter (camera sensors) and metal objects (radar sensors) that can interfere with calibration. Honda, for example, specifies an open area 13 feet wide, 5 feet high, and extending at least 23 feet in front of the car. The Lexus radar calibration process (performed outdoors) requires a large open road at least 32 feet long and 45 feet wide in front of the car.
• A wheel alignment rack. Many automakers require or recommend that a four-wheel alignment be performed before ADAS sensor calibration. This ensures that the vehicle’s thrust line, an imaginary centerline drawn lengthwise through the car, points straight down the road when the steering wheel is centered. ADAS sensors are then calibrated to align with the thrust line. Wheel alignment equipment is now available with built-in ADAS calibration capabilities, although a static and/or dynamic aiming process (see below) may still be required.

Figure 6. A tool dedicated to ADAS camera sensor calibration. (Image: Pilkington)

Before calibrating an ADAS sensor, a vehicle must be prepared as specified by the automaker. Some of the common requirements include:

There are two forms of ADAS calibration, static and dynamic. General descriptions of these processes are provided below, but the exact procedures vary considerably from one vehicle make and model to another. In all cases, the procedures and instructions specified by the automaker must be followed to the letter.

Static sensor calibration begins by establishing the vehicle’s thrust line. Automakers specify a variety of manual measurement methods and special tools to perform this part of the process. In many cases, the tools attach to or are aligned with the front and rear wheel hubs. Laser projectors are often built into the tools to ensure perfect alignment.

Next, one or more special aiming targets are positioned at precise locations relative to the thrust line and the sensor. The targets must be at a specified height, and many are designed to be used with special adjustable mounting stands. When a sensor is offset from the car’s centerline, the targets must also be offset accordingly. While at least one vehicle uses a target that is placed on

You know nothing about mechanics, but you want to avoid spending hundreds of euros at a garage? Don’t panic! This practical guide explains how to identify common issues using just your five senses. From visual inspection to suspicious smells, learn how to play car detective and act with confidence.

1. Visual Inspection: Your Eyes Are Your Best Allies

Your car is constantly communicating with you. Here’s what to look for:

• Dashboard Warning Lights:

  • The Check Engine Light requires an OBD2 scan (use a €20 scanner or visit an auto parts store for a free reading).

  • The Tire Pressure Light indicates air loss: check them with a pressure gauge (less than €10).

  • Fluid under the car? Identify it by its color:

    • Green/Yellow → Coolant.

    • Red → Transmission or power steering fluid.

    • Black → Engine oil.

    • Clear → Water (air conditioning) or brake fluid (test by touch: slippery = dangerous).

• Tires and Suspension:

  • Underinflated or unevenly worn tires indicate an alignment or suspension problem.

2. Hearing: Noises That Reveal Problems

Turn off the radio and listen carefully:

• High-pitched squealing when braking → Worn brake pads (replace within 500 km).

• Metallic clunking → Damaged CV joint or suspension.

• Hissing under the hood → Loose or worn accessory belt.

• Humming when turning → Faulty wheel bearing.

• Dull knocking during acceleration → Cracked exhaust or worn engine mount.

⚠️ Do not ignore: A repeated clicking when starting may indicate a weak battery. Test it with a multimeter (12.6 V = normal; less than 12 V = recharge or replace).

3. Touch: What Vibrations and Steering Tell You

• Steering wheel vibrating:

  • At high speed → Wheel balancing needed (€20-30 per wheel).

  • When braking → Warped brake discs.

• Difficult or imprecise steering:

  • Check the power steering fluid level (refer to under-hood markings).

  • Steering pulling to the left/right → Uneven tire pressure or alignment issue.

• Seat or pedals vibrating → Engine mounts damaged or unbalanced transmission.

4. Smell: Warning Odors

• Gasoline smell → Leak from the tank, fuel filter, or injectors (fire risk).

• Sweet smell → Coolant leak (check level in the expansion tank).

• Burning smell:

  • Rubber → Slipping belt.

  • Plastic → Electrical overheating (wires or fuses).

  • Oil → Leak onto the exhaust.

• Rotten egg smell → Faulty catalytic converter (hydrogen sulfide emissions).

5. When to Act Immediately? Absolute Emergencies

• Smoke or flames → Stop the engine, evacuate, call the fire department.

• Engine temperature light on → Stop immediately to prevent engine damage.

• Exhaust smell inside the cabin → Carbon monoxide (invisible, deadly). Ventilate and consult a professional.

Essential Tools for Under €50

1. OBD2 Scanner (from €15) to read error codes.

2. Multimeter (€20) to test battery and electrical circuits.

3. Pressure Gauge (€10) to check tire pressure.

Conclusion: Become Self-Reliant, But Stay Cautious!
With these tips, you can solve 50% of common issues (brakes, battery, minor leaks). For complex problems (engine, transmission), consult a professional. Always keep a repair manual specific to your model (e.g., Haynes) on hand, and remember: prevention is better than cure with regular maintenance!

💡 Did You Know?
Most garages offer a free diagnostic to attract customers. Use this offer to confirm your suspicions before repairing it yourself!

Want to avoid unnecessary garage costs? This practical guide explains how to diagnose car problems (brakes, engine, leaks) using your 5 senses. Discover essential tools (OBD2 scanner, multimeter) and emergency signals never to ignore (gasoline smell, smoke).

Numerous studies have shown the very positive impact of implementing advanced road safety technologies in reducing road accidents and deaths. It goes without saying that safer vehicles lead to safer roads. This is why government bodies and organizations like the EU are making certain safety systems, such as stability control technology, a mandatory requirement for modern car manufacturers.

Nowadays, there are countless prevention systems and technologies, developed by the world’s leading car manufacturers. They can be classified as passive or active car safety devices.

ACTIVE VS PASSIVE SAFETY FEATURES

The key difference between the categories lies in the purpose of the automotive components. An active system is a system designed to prevent an accident or fatal incident from occurring. For example, this can be done by providing assistance with braking, visibility, or steering. These features are typically electronically controlled and operate continuously while the vehicle is in motion. In contrast, passive systems are used to mitigate the risk of serious injury or death in the event of a road accident.

WHAT SAFETY FEATURES ARE AVAILABLE ON AUTOMOBILES?

Examples of active features:

• Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)
  It is designed to prevent a loss of traction and prevent the wheels from locking by increasing and releasing brake pressure on the individual wheels. It increases the vehicle’s stability and handling during emergency braking. The system consists of a control module, speed sensors, valves, and a pump.
• Electronic Stability Control (ESC)
  Also known as Electronic Stability Program (ESP), this technology automatically reacts when it detects a loss of traction or control to counteract skidding and prevent the vehicle from veering off the road. It does this by monitoring data from wheel speed, yaw rate, steering angle, and lateral acceleration sensors. This information is analyzed 25 times per second. The control unit can automatically reduce power or apply individual brakes to maintain stability. Research conducted in the UK has shown that ESC can reduce the likelihood of a collision by 25%.

  

• Blind Spot Detection (BSD)
  BSD sensors actively monitor the blind spots at the rear and sides of the car for vehicles or other objects that could cause a collision. Once a threat has been detected, the driver is alerted by a visual or audible warning. Some systems also include a camera.
• Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
  This system monitors tire pressure on various vehicles, providing real-time information via a gauge, digital display, or pressure warning light. There are two types of TPMS: direct and indirect. A direct TPMS uses pressure gauges to directly determine the actual air pressure levels in the tires. This information is then transmitted to the onboard computer. Indirect systems, on the other hand, use ABS wheel speed sensors and identify a pressure problem when one or more tires rotate faster than the others.

  

• Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC)
  ACC is an autonomous technology that monitors other vehicles and obstacles on the road and adjusts the vehicle’s speed accordingly to maintain a safe distance. Vehicles equipped with ACC are fitted with a laser or radar scanning system that examines the road ahead. Drivers can easily activate the technology and set their preferences using the control buttons. Normal cruise control only allows the driver to maintain the car at the same speed without constantly keeping their foot on the pedal, and is not capable of making intelligent adjustments based on the vehicle’s environment.
• Lane Departure Warning
  This is a camera that detects markings on the roads to indicate which lane the vehicle is in. If the devices determine that the car is drifting out of the lane, a visual or audible warning notification is triggered.

Examples of passive safety features:

• Airbags
  Commercially introduced in the 1970s, the airbag is an inflatable device that rapidly expands upon impact to protect the front seat occupants of the vehicle. It serves as a protective cushion to prevent them from hitting the dashboard, steering wheel, or other components.

  

• Seat Belts
  We all know the car seat belts that lock to prevent our bodies from being ejected from the seats in the event of an accident. The common safety component may also be known as a restraint device, as it limits the movement of the driver and passengers while distributing the force of the collision over a large area.
• Whiplash Protection (WLP)
  The system consists of seat backs and headrests designed to absorb energy upon impact, thereby reducing whiplash-related injuries.
• Occupant Detection Systems
  Sensor technology detects when a person occupies a car seat and whether the airbags should be activated or not in the event of an accident.