What is the most stressful aspect of driving? Possible traffic collisions? Road rage? Breaking down for no apparent reason? No. Apparently, nearly half of drivers aged 18 to 34 find parallel parking to be their biggest stress. It’s the maneuver everyone dreads being asked to perform during their driving test and long after people have obtained their driver’s license, they can struggle with it. Fortunately, our guide is here to explain and give you some tips and tricks to help you parallel park, as well as reverse bay parking and forward bay parking, perfectly every time.

FORWARD BAY PARKING

We will start with an explanation of forward bay parking, which is often considered the simplest of these three parking maneuvers. This procedure involves driving the car forward into an empty parking space. Although it doesn’t seem that difficult, the obstacles on each side must be taken into account, as well as the distance from the bay, where and when to start turning relative to the bay, and the speed of the car. Entering the bay itself is normally not a problem when there’s nothing around, but it’s a real test of observation to enter and exit in a very busy parking lot because there can be many hazards around us.

Here are some tips to avoid parking fears:

1. The first step is to ensure you are at a good distance, ideally as far as possible, from the bay you wish to park in. This gives you the widest possible turning radius and more time to turn and correct your angle, without having to reverse or straighten up once you’re in the bay.
2. This should go without saying, but before turning, make sure to use your indicators to signal your intention to other road users. Also check your mirrors at this point, looking for current or potential hazards.
3. You are now looking for the first reference point to help you park – the boundaries of the parking area you wish to park in, often white lines on the ground. When you see the first white line just under your right side mirror, you can check one last time in your mirrors, then steer to full lock (turning the steering wheel as far as possible to the left or right). An important aspect of this is to make sure to take your time and go as slowly as possible; the slower you drive, the more time the vehicle has to turn and the less you’ll have to make adjustments. Even if it seems like a great idea to swing the car into place as quickly as possible, it certainly is not!
4. As you turn into the bay, start to straighten your steering once your car is parallel or nearly parallel to the white lines of the bay (you can see them in your mirror) or if you can tell the car is straight using visible objects through the windshield. You can use both outside mirrors to check if the car is straight, then apply the handbrake, and you’re done!

REVERSE PARKING INTO A BAY

To paraphrase Isaac Newton, what goes into a parking space must come out of a parking space. If you park forward into a bay, you will have to reverse out of it. This can be quite tricky or time-consuming when there is a lot of traffic or movement in a parking lot. What many drivers prefer, therefore, is reverse bay parking, to ensure you can escape quickly and comfortably when you want to.

Even if you opt for forward bay parking, it’s really worth familiarizing yourself with reverse parking, as you’ll be reversing out of your spot anyway. This turn uses the same principles as forward bay parking but, since the car is moving in reverse, it just requires a bit more observation and awareness.

Here are some simple steps to help you perfect your reverse bay parking:

1. Again, try to position the car far from the bay you wish to park in (to get a wide turning arc) and ensure your car is opposite the desired bay. If you are turning into a bay that is on the side of a road, you are in the middle of the road at a good distance, but this of course means extra precautions must be taken to check and alert other road users of your intention. Also be aware that the front of your car will swing out when you reverse into the bay and there is a risk of hitting objects on the other side of the bay, such as low walls or fences, so take extra care! If there are vehicles or cyclists behind you, as well as pedestrians nearby or approaching, stop and let them pass.
2. Next, reverse your car slowly until you reach the turning point. This point is slightly different for all cars, so you will need to establish your own way of recognizing when you have reached this point. It’s roughly when the first white line of the bay is parallel to the middle of your vehicle. As with forward bay parking, you can use your mirrors and look out the window to help establish this. When you reach this point, check once more for cars or pedestrians nearby, stopping if necessary, then turn your steering wheel to full lock in the direction you wish to go.
3. Continue moving slowly in reverse, checking both sides and all around you to ensure you are not going to collide with any object either behind or to the side of you. You can also check the white lines of the bay and use your rearview mirror to see when you are inside the bay. When your car is parallel to the white lines and directly inside the bay, straighten the wheel.
4. Once your car is directly inside the bay, continue moving very slowly in reverse until the front of the lines that mark the bay are in front of your car. This may not be possible for some larger or longer vehicles, but for most ordinary cars, it’s a good indicator that you have reached a point where your car is safely parked in the bay. Your perfect reverse bay park is complete!

PARALLEL PARKING

What is it about parallel parking that makes people break out in a cold sweat? Why do so many people consider it the most stressful aspect of driving? As with reverse bay parking, the car is reversing, which limits one’s ability to see potential hazards the car is heading towards and forces them to constantly turn their head to detect any potential danger.

Furthermore, the timing must be perfect when parallel parking: since you often park your car behind an already parked vehicle (and sometimes even between two already parked cars), the risk of collision increases and the space is much smaller or tighter than a predefined parking space.

But fear not, if you follow these tips for parallel parking correctly, your parking nightmares will be over:

1. Find the space you want to parallel park in. This is often likely to be between two cars or at least behind one car. Drive a good distance (about a car’s length) past the car you wish to park behind, so you have enough time to reverse slowly and think about when and where to start turning. When you are about to stop, check your mirrors and around you for other road users.
2. Before starting to reverse, check if any vehicles or cyclists are approaching and wait for them to pass.
3. Once you are satisfied it’s all clear, look through the rear window, then move the car backward, taking your time and moving slowly until the rear of your car is level with the rear of the car in front of the space you want to park in. It is important that you reverse far enough – if you don’t, you risk hitting the car next to you.
4. Once the rear of your car is level with the rear of the already parked car, you are at the turning point and are about to steer into the space. This is the most dangerous part of the maneuver, as the front of your car will swing out into the road. Before doing anything else, observe the road again to ensure there are no cyclists, cars, or pedestrians nearby. Remember to always check your right blind spot.
5. If all is quiet, reverse very slowly and while moving the car, turn the steering wheel one full turn (360 degrees) in the direction of the space (e.g., if it’s on your left, turn the wheel to the left). By turning the wheel one full turn instead of full lock, the steering angle will be slightly less sharp at about 45 degrees. This eliminates the possibility of you reversing into the car next to you.
6. You now need to determine when to straighten the car. While reversing, you will need constant all-around observation and must stop if vehicles are approaching. Also, if you are reversing towards pedestrians, stop and let them pass before continuing. Remember to check your rearview mirror frequently. The moment you straighten up varies from car to car, but generally aligning the left corner of your car with the right corner of the car you are parking behind serves as a good reference point. Once aligned, turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction, this time to full lock. You can even stop at this point to give yourself more time to check around for hazards or to turn the wheel.
7. Turning your steering wheel to full lock position will bring the car parallel to the curb. As you reverse, continue to check your outside mirror to ensure you are not going to hit the curb or are too far from it; leaving your car too far from the curb can be extremely dangerous. If you are too far away, you will need to pull forward slightly, then reverse again, this time turning more in the desired direction to get closer to the curb.
8. Once you are close enough to the curb and have started to straighten your car, continue moving slowly until the car is completely parallel to the curb, using your mirror to judge. It’s always best to ensure your car is not too close to the car in front of you, to give them space to reverse slightly and help them move. A gap of about a quarter of a car’s length or 1 meter can be a blessing for drivers when they need to maneuver out of a tight space.

PARKING AIDS: REVERSE PARKING WITH CAMERAS AND SENSORS

Reverse parking should now be straightforward thanks to the best tips and tricks we’ve given you, but if it all still seems a bit daunting, there are now tons of gadgets that come standard or can be fitted to your car to help you with reverse bay and parallel parking. The most helpful are reverse or parking sensors or cameras.

Parking sensors are proximity sensors designed to alert drivers to the presence of obstacles, moving or stationary, when parking. These systems use electromagnetic or ultrasonic sensors. Ultrasonic systems use sensors located on the front or rear bumper to detect objects, while electromagnetic systems often come with cameras and do not require additional holes to be drilled in your car (like ultrasonic sensors) as they can be discreetly mounted on the inside of the bumper. When ultrasonic sensors were first developed in the 1970s, they were dismissed by Jaguar as unnecessary and likely to be unpopular. Times have definitely changed; now, they can often come standard from the manufacturer.

Both systems often use sounds to alert drivers when there is an obstacle behind them and make the job easier if your car is about to hit the curb or another car while parallel parking or reversing.

In addition to sensors, a wide range of parking cameras is also available. These are cameras that attach to the rear of your car and are linked to a screen that can be positioned on your dashboard. They give the driver a picture of what is directly behind their car and are often accompanied by software that shows you the “parking line” (the potential position of your vehicle if you continue moving on that trajectory). This can be extremely useful when aligning your car in a parking bay or in a parallel parking space. A handful of cameras even come with night vision settings and variable angle settings, allowing you to adjust how much you see behind you. Many of these cameras are relatively inexpensive and all are user-friendly and easy to use. Some of the best parking cameras come from Pioneer, Vordon, or Valeo, and for reliable parking sensors, a wide range comes from Amio, Stark, and Ridex.

With all these tips and some of this fantastic technology, you should be able to reverse, bay, and parallel park perfectly.

KNOWING HOW TO TOW A CAR CAN HELP YOU OUT OF SOME TOUGH SITUATIONS, BUT IT ISN’T AS SIMPLE AS YOU MIGHT THINK

It’s a situation we never want to find ourselves in: you’re stuck on the side of the road with a car that won’t start and you don’t know how to get the engine running again. Whether it’s because you forgot to fill up the tank or you ignored the annoying check engine light, you’re stranded in the middle of nowhere and, to make matters worse, you haven’t renewed your breakdown cover. When a friend or family member offers to tow you home, you’ll feel like they’re your guardian angel. But without knowing exactly how to tow your car legally and safely, you shouldn’t jump for joy just yet. This is our guide on how to tow a vehicle and the regulations you need to be aware of when towing.

HOW TO TOW A CAR

It’s not only in the disastrous circumstances mentioned above that you might want to tow a car. It could be taking a vehicle on vacation, helping during a move, or taking a car that won’t start from your home to a garage. The most important thing is to prepare for it with the right equipment and know exactly how to tow a vehicle.

USING A TOW ROPE OR STRAPS

A tow strap is one of the most basic, cheapest, and easiest ways to tow a car. The tow rope should be strong and in good condition and must be attached to the front of the car that needs to be towed. The other end should, of course, be attached to the car doing the towing. Ensuring the rope is attached roughly in the center and in line on both vehicles will make it easier to control the direction of the towed vehicle. There are many strengths, sizes, and qualities of tow ropes for different vehicles available on the market, so be sure to consider what you might need when purchasing a tow rope.

USING A TOW DOLLY

A tow dolly makes towing vehicles easier because some of the load is taken off the vehicle doing the towing, as only the rear wheels of the towed vehicle rest on the ground. The front set of wheels is lifted onto the dolly itself, which can be coupled with the tow ball at the back of the vehicle doing the towing, just like a trailer. This usually works best when the towing vehicle is front-wheel drive. This is because a rear-wheel drive or four-wheel drive vehicle means you need to disconnect the drive shaft for longer distances.

When the dolly is secured, you can load the towed vehicle. If possible, drive the car onto the dolly facing forward. Make sure the vehicle is properly positioned on the dolly.

The front wheels should then be secured using tire straps and all you have to do is disconnect the drive shaft and you’re ready to tow the car.

USING A TRAILER

Whereas with a tow dolly, only one end of the vehicle will be raised, using a trailer means the vehicle is completely off the ground. This is by far the easiest way to tow a vehicle, but of course, you won’t carry a trailer with you everywhere you go.

This is also safer than other methods, but it has its drawbacks, one of which is that the towing vehicle and trailer together may be too heavy for the towing vehicle to handle. So your vehicle’s towing rating is something it’s essential you know (for any type of towing actually!). This towing rating or Maximum Authorized Mass (MAM) will be given in KG. For example, a vehicle with a towing rating of 800 kg MAM will be able to tow a vehicle provided the weight of the towed vehicle and the trailer does not exceed 800 kg.

The trailer is attached to the tow ball of the vehicle that will perform the towing. You must ensure that the trailer hitch is securely fastened and that it is attached to the hitch by gently pushing the towing vehicle forward. When you have done this, attach the safety chains that connect the trailer to the towing vehicle itself. Then connect the trailer’s wiring harness to the towing vehicle’s sockets. If the trailer comes with a brake battery, you should check its charge before starting your journey.

After setting up and attaching the trailer, you will then need to load the vehicle itself. After extending the trailer’s ramps, you will drive the towing vehicle up the ramp and onto the trailer itself. Make sure the towing vehicle is centered by driving the vehicle slowly up the ramps.

Continue climbing until the front tires rest against the tire stops located at the front of the trailer itself. Then place the vehicle in park and make sure you have engaged the parking brake.

You can then attach wheel nets or nylon straps to the towed vehicle to ensure maximum safety.

USING A TOW BAR

Finally, you can also tow cars using a tow bar. All four wheels of the towed vehicle will be on the ground during this process and you must ensure to disconnect the drive shaft to make sure the transmission is not damaged when the car is towed.

Tow bars are typically used with caravans or when towing vehicles over long distances or across the country. It is important to note that a tow bar means you attach brackets to the front chassis of the vehicle doing the towing. If you cannot do this yourself, a technician or expert can help you.

You must first secure the brackets. Find the strongest part of the vehicle’s chassis to attach the bracket, one on each side of the front. Then check the brake lights and turn signals to ensure they work together simultaneously. You can purchase a wiring system that will connect and coordinate with the lights and turn signals so they work together.

Finally, attach the tow bar. After attaching the tow bar brackets to the towed vehicle itself, you ensure the bolts are secured using a socket wrench. After securing the tow bar, make sure to fasten it by attaching the towing vehicle’s safety chains to the pivot bracket itself.
Towing Rules

Towing a car with another car is perfectly legal, provided certain guidelines are followed, which must be adhered to at all times, especially if the vehicle is being towed in an emergency situation and it may not be immediately clear that a vehicle is being towed.

TOP TOWING TIPS

Give your car the best grip and total traction with our 11 best tires.

Although budget tires may seem attractive compared to premium brands, there is a good reason to opt for the gold standard. If a brand claims to be the best tire manufacturer, like many on this list, they will have years of experience and research behind them that allow them to offer car owners the most technologically advanced tires. You may not immediately associate these four pieces of rubber with cutting-edge technology, but these experts have found countless ways to make tires safer, more robust, and more aerodynamic. This does not mean, however, that price is everything. There are a handful of cheaper tire brands that keep their promise and can even offer better value for money than premium manufacturers, without a huge lack of grip and handling.

Whether it’s improving traction in difficult weather, or making them more reliable and engineered to last longer, all the tires on this list will offer you something more than generic and budget tires. Read our guide to find out which tires are the best and what makes a great tire.

WHAT ARE THE QUALITIES OF THE BEST TIRES?

RUBBER COMPOUND AND STRUCTURE

First, the type of rubber compound used is essential for having a good tire. Tires must have a compound that allows them to perform well in wet conditions as well as dry and to have decent longevity. Major brands constantly tweak to see how the materials they use in these compounds, and in the tire in general, affect performance. To give you an idea of the complexity of the situation, an average Goodyear tire contains about 30 types of synthetic rubber, 8 types of natural rubber, 8 types of carbon black, polyester and nylon fiber, steel bead wire, and 40 different chemicals, waxes, oils, pigments, silicas, and clays. So when you hear someone talking about the smell of burning rubber on a race track, you know that actually it’s the smell of much more than that. Things you might find in all tires, but especially high-quality tires, will be zinc to make the tires more resistant, carbon black to make them last longer, and nylon threads to help seal the tire to the wheel. Good internal structure and materials used inside the tire will also help ensure that the contact patch remains even and on the road.

TREAD PATTERN

Besides the material used, the tread pattern is very important for the quality of a tire. It is the tread design that helps determine the tire’s traction on the road, and companies have developed many different styles for different conditions. Like the bow of a ship, a good design should cut through water, allowing the rubber to make contact with the road. The grooves must evacuate water from the contact patch, as failure to do so leads to hydroplaning.

There are four elements that make up a tire’s tread: the ribs are the raised section of the tread, made up of tread blocks; the grooves are deep channels that extend circumferentially and laterally around the tire; the tread blocks are the raised rubber segments that make contact with the road surface; the sipes are thin, small slits molded into the tread blocks. All these different elements work together to create the right balance between grip, stability in different conditions, and reduced resistance to allow for smooth and fast driving.

Since the best tire brands often design their own treads, they all have subtle differences and peculiarities. However, we can generalize tread types into a few rough categories.

Symmetric tread patterns are very common and feature ribs and tread blocks on the tread face where both halves of the tire display the same pattern. They provide smooth driving, have high directional control, and low rolling resistance.

A directional tread pattern is designed to rotate in one direction only and typically incorporates V-shaped tread blocks. These patterns are effective at ejecting water and have good grip on wet surfaces. They offer extremely high protection against hydroplaning, excellent handling on snow and mud, and very good high-speed handling.

Asymmetric tire treads offer almost a combination between directional and symmetric, with excellent handling, high stability in corners, and excellent grip in wet conditions.

THE 11 BEST TIRE BRANDS

HANKOOK

Moving towards the high-end of the tire market and gaining exposure in Europe through its partnership with Formula Renault and other major racing series, it offers a full range of winter, all-season, and low rolling resistance tires for excellent handling and improved fuel economy.

GOODRIDE

Goodride tires can be found all over the world, and this universal brand focuses on manufacturing products that do not harm the environment, while maintaining excellent performance, and their state-of-the-art installation has won awards from the U.S. Department of Transportation and the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe.

ROTALLA

Offering high-performance tires at affordable prices, Rotalla is a good option if you are looking for replacement tires but don’t want to pay for the brand. They have a full range of tires, including winter and low-noise tires.

NANKANG

Exceptional value for money is also something that Nankang, Taiwan’s largest tire manufacturer, tries to combine with high-quality products. Their motto is “Integrity, pragmatism, and innovation,” and they are proud of their research and development tires that make them up.

GOODYEAR

You can’t think of tires or racing without thinking of Goodyear. Named after the scientist who invented vulcanized rubber and with over 100 years of experience in the field, all Goodyear tires are technologically advanced and offer high quality. From UltraGrip 8 tires for winter to Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 tires for high performance, they have something for everyone.

MICHELIN

They may be known now for a man made of white tires or exquisite cuisine, but Michelin is a serious tire brand. For over 125 years, their technology has made them renowned for their reliability and quality. Their products are all designed with road safety in mind, and they stock everything from budget tires to high-performance tires.

PIRELLI

Since 1872, Pirelli has been designing and manufacturing innovative tires. With a set of these on your car, you can rely on their safety, reliability, and excellent driving performance. With tires suitable for off-road driving, sports performance as well as eco-friendly tires, Pirelli meets all needs.

CONTINENTAL

Recognized worldwide for their tires for a variety of vehicles (cyclists can also use Continental tires or inner tubes!), they are also known for their quality and performance. Their range includes the ContiEcoContact 5, an eco-friendly tire, the ContiPremiumContact 5 for comfort, and the ContiSportContact 3 for high-performance vehicles.

BRIDGESTONE

Whether it’s high-performance tires or just tires for daily use, Bridgestone has everything you need. Whether you drive a 4×4, a car, a van, or even a motorcycle, your needs can be met to the highest standards and according to your budget.

NEXEN

Nexen is a Korean tire brand founded in 1956. Their forward-thinking approach is illustrated by their very name, which is a combination of “next” and “century” in Korean.

Due to their commitment to quality products, friendly service, and exceptional value, Nexen’s domestic market share has grown from 8% to 20%, and they export to 120 countries. Their tires must be doing something right!

DUNLOP

Forget tennis balls and rackets, Dunlop is also a serious tire manufacturer. They clearly focus on sport and offer a “complete range of tires for all seasons and all sizes.” Their tires aim for maximum grip and are designed to be robust and durable; some are even developed in tandem with DuPont Kevlar.

Avoid canine chaos and potential accidents by safely securing your dogs.

Since the 1970s, laws began to be introduced to make seat belts mandatory in passenger vehicles worldwide. Experts have proven the benefits of wearing a seat belt and that it massively reduces the risk of injury for passengers. It took a long time for this idea to catch on for pets, but it’s finally here. It is now almost mandatory to take special precautions when transporting pets and there is certainly a right and wrong way to travel with a dog in the car.

There are many reasons why it is important to keep an eye on your dogs, from pets being a distraction in the car to injuries in an accident. Regardless, failing to comply with regulations could result in a heavy fine, invalidate your insurance, and in the worst case, be fatal for your dog or for you.

Since our pets bring us so much joy, it is only fair that when we travel with a dog in the car, we provide them with the appropriate safety equipment to ensure they are as protected as we are. Here, we will give you all the best tips on the safest way to travel with a dog in the car.

WHY DO PETS NEED TO BE RESTRAINED IN THE CAR?

There are a ton of important reasons to keep your dog protected and secure while you are driving. This applies to all dogs; even the best-behaved dogs need some form of restraint and it should be used, whether you are going to the shops or taking a longer trip.

First, it is vital for their safety. Seat belts and airbags prevent humans from crashing into what is in front of them if the vehicle collides with another object. A pet seat belt or carrier will do the same and prevent them from sustaining serious injuries if you are in a car accident. Things like appropriate boot mats for cars also prevent pets from slipping while driving, which could also cause injuries. Aside from the physical pressure it could put on them, many dogs hate driving because it is so artificial. Having the right equipment limits the stress of the experience for them, even if it can be stressful to put them in the basket or carrier!

After an accident, an unrestrained dog may be frightened or even aggressive, especially if they are in pain and confused. Having them properly restrained will make accessing them safely to help much easier and reduce the risk of them running away or lashing out in fear.

Second, your safety is threatened if your pet is loose in the car. They could seriously injure you and your passengers in an accident if they are thrown onto you. A Border Collie may not seem that big compared to many other animals, but when traveling at 30 mph, the force is equivalent to the weight of a polar bear. Forget breaking the ice, that will break your bones.

Loose pets can not only be involved in accidents, they can also be the cause of accidents. Dogs can distract the driver from the road when they climb or try to get on your lap, or perhaps even interfere with the steering wheel or brake pedal, thereby increasing the risk of an accident. Even if they are not doing anything dangerous, pets making noise, moving around, or attacking car accessories can cause drivers to take their eyes off the road and become a deadly distraction. It only takes a few seconds for a situation on the road that could be potentially fatal to develop. Even with the best-behaved dogs, it is not worth taking the risk.

Dogs roaming in the car can also cause insurance headaches. The terms of many car insurance policies require that, when driving with pets, they are properly restrained at all times. A loose dog in the car could mean that you have violated your insurance policy, invalidated it, and left you with a huge bill to pay if you are involved in an accident. This can also invalidate your pet insurance if they are injured and need treatment.

WHAT DOES THE LAW SAY?

It is not straightforward to determine precisely what the law is in the UK regarding restraining dogs, as there is no specific “dog in car law,” but it is always better to be on the right side. Rule 57 of the Highway Code states that drivers must “ensure that dogs or other animals are properly restrained so that they cannot distract you while you are driving or injure you, or injure themselves, if you stop quickly.” It also recommends that “a seat belt harness, pet carrier, dog cage, or dog guard are ways to restrain animals in cars.”

The Highway Code is not technically enforceable by law, but if you do not follow the regulations, it could still cause you problems. If you have an accident with an unrestrained pet, or even if the police stop you, it may be considered that you are driving “without due care and attention.” If you are involved in an accident because you were distracted by your pet, it could be considered dangerous driving. Driving without due care or dangerous driving can result in fines of up to £2500, up to 9 penalty points on your license, and in extreme cases, a driving ban. Some insurance companies now warn customers that their car insurance could be invalid if they are involved in an accident with an unrestrained animal in their vehicle.

TIPS FOR TRAVELING SAFELY WITH A DOG IN THE CAR

Dogs can travel in the back seat if they are attached to the seat belts with a car dog harness and they can also travel in the boot in a crate or on foot if a dog mat is used; remember to remove the parcel shelf to give them enough space. The quality of the harness, crate, or guard is also very important. There are many different types on the market, so take a look at our recommendations below to know where to start.

Small dogs should be placed in a pet carrier and secured with a seat belt on the back seats or on the floor behind the passenger seat. It may seem like they don’t have a good view, but sometimes not being able to see the road can make them calmer and less anxious or excitable.

Always make sure you have enough water for your dogs in your car, especially on long trips. Also consider bringing food if you are traveling during their normal meal times and plan places to stop for your dog to go to the toilet. Even if they don’t end up going, they will certainly appreciate the fresh air. Just like humans, meeting their basic needs will ensure that pets are less likely to distract you while driving.

 

If you are traveling with more than one dog, make sure they are separated as much as possible. Even the best of friends can suddenly change behavior in unfamiliar situations and trying to break up a dog fight while navigating traffic or driving on country roads will never end happily.
Use sunshades to cover the windows when it is hot or very sunny to help protect your dog and never leave them alone in a hot car, even if it’s only for 5 minutes.

 

If you know you have a significant or long trip coming up, it is worth taking your dog on shorter trips first to get them used to being in the car. It is important that they feel as comfortable and relaxed as possible. Getting used to it at a young age will mean it is part of their “socialization” and will not seem strange to them. Plan longer trips and make sure they usually end with something fun like a treat or a walk. Make these experiences as positive as possible, with plenty of treats and fun days so that your dogs look forward to driving.

 

It is also important to drive to fun places. Just as children hate going to the dentist, dogs will not enjoy going to the vet. If they associate the sound of the boot opening with a vet visit, it will cause more distress than excitement.

 

Finally, ignore movies and car advertisements: never let dogs stick their heads out the window. They could bump their head on something, fall out the window, or distract other drivers.

BEST PRODUCTS AND BRANDS FOR TRANSPORTING DOGS

Some of the products you might want to think about for your dogs are pet seat belts, harnesses, crates, and carriers, as well as boot or trunk guards or mats. There is a wide variety of brands that stock these different products, so here are some of the best.

If you are looking for carriers or containers for small dogs, SAVIC and EBI both offer an excellent range. These are typically made of sturdy but lightweight plastic, making them ideal for carrying or transporting a dog to and from the car. There are plenty of ventilation holes and flaps depending on the model, so dogs have adequate ventilation and can see what is in front of them, but it can help if a dog is anxious or disoriented during the journey. This is probably the safest way for a dog to ride in the car.

EBI also offers a range of small dog baskets so they can be carried under the arm. These might not be as safe for long trips, however, and should be used with a dog harness. Both brands also offer larger boxes or cages for dogs that can often take up an entire boot but can also accommodate multiple dogs and are often made of metal, great for protecting your dogs in a collision.

Hunter offers a premium range of larger dog transport bags, which could be useful for carrying a dog or for walking in the city or countryside. Along with this, Hunter offers a variety of polyester, leather, and faux leather protective mats to put in your car boot and protect the boot floor from dogs. POLGUM offers a range of very effective protection that prevents dogs from slipping and gives them a firm footing in your boot.

Finally, for dog guards and barriers to prevent dogs from climbing from the boot to the back seat, both DBS or Animals & Car offer a good variety of metal or mesh guards, depending on your needs.

A spare car alarm can give you what you need to make your car safe again.

You’re standing in your living room looking at your brand new car. A warm feeling runs through you and it’s not coming from the central heating. It’s both a machine and a work of art, you think as you turn away and head to bed. This blend of Daimler and Dali is just as appealing to others and there would be nothing worse than coming down the next morning to see just an empty driveway staring back at you. While all cars, whether cheap or high-end, come with a door-locking anti-theft system, these can be easily broken. Even if your car already has a manufacturer-installed car alarm system, an additional car alarm will help provide extra protection for your vehicle and ensure you get that warm feeling every time you look at it (Okay, okay… maybe you just want to get to work in the morning). In addition to dealing with the best car alarms you can add to your car, we’ve also covered common problems for built-in and spare car alarms.

CAR ALARM TYPES AND FEATURES

There are different types of car alarms that your car might already be equipped with or that you might consider installing. In addition to the different ways of activating the car alarm, it can operate in a different way, have different ways of indicating that it is active, and there is a whole range of different capabilities for some alarms.

AUDIBLE ALARMS

The simplest car alarms are audible car alarms. They work using sensors placed in different locations on your vehicle. If something disturbs the sensors, they activate and a hidden alarm in the car goes off. You can adjust the sensitivity levels of the sensors so they detect the slightest movement or they can be reduced to ensure it doesn’t go off at the touch of a feather. While some systems flash the car’s lights and more advanced systems can alert users remotely when the alarm is triggered, almost all systems will operate in conjunction with audible alarms.

ACTIVE OR PASSIVE SYSTEMS

A car alarm can also be active or passive. This refers to how the alarm is activated.

A passive system arms itself automatically once the ignition is turned off and the last door is closed. Active alarms require the user to press a button on the transmitter to arm and disarm their system.

Most alarms can be set up as passive or active and it’s a matter of preference here. It may be interesting to know, however, that you can probably get a discount on your insurance if you use passive alarm systems.

TWO-WAY REMOTE SYSTEMS

A more advanced car alarm system is a two-way remote car alarm. These systems provide two-way communication between the alarm and the key fob on a driver’s keychain. Some more technologically advanced systems will even have small LCD screens on the key fob. Basic and older systems simply trigger an audible alarm and flash the vehicle’s lights to deter potential car thieves (or scare off cats that accidentally set off the alarm). However, two-way remote alarms can communicate their status to the owner sometimes up to a kilometer away. This communication is also not limited to a simple report that the alarm has been triggered. It can include notifying the owner if someone breaks into the car or even if the alarm goes off for any reason. Your system may have a remote start function for the car alarm, which allows you to use the remote control to start the car remotely.

AFTERMARKET CAR ALARMS

There are a few points to keep in mind when buying a spare alarm. The first thing to consider is installation, as this can sometimes be a challenge. There will be a lot of wires and ideally, you need to be familiar with your car’s electrical system. You can of course leave it to a professional to do it. Some aftermarket systems, however, make installation extremely easy. Some alarms can easily be installed on the car roof with glue and others have solar cells, which absorb sunlight and reduce the need to connect the alarm to the car’s electronics.

The range of the alarm is something that could be a deciding factor. Some alarms claim to have a range of one mile, but you are unlikely to ever need to lock the car from that distance. It’s better to think about the strength of the alarm rather than the range. This way, you can be certain that even from a distance, you can secure your car by simply pressing a button.

A car alarm with motion sensors is now a common feature of most new cars. The quality of these motion or shock sensors in your alarm system determines the sensitivity of the system and what triggers it. As mentioned above, this can often be adjusted, but checking how sensitive it can be is a great idea before buying. We recommend using a system with responsive shock sensors capable of triggering the alarm when your car is hit by a significant impact or when someone smashes the car window. As for the power of the alarm, anything over 100 decibels will truly terrify any potential crooks.

As technology has progressed in recent years, car alarms have kept up well. There is a wide variety of alarm systems accessible and monitored via your smartphone. This adds a level of convenience that allows you to effortlessly control your car and use your phone as an additional remote control. Some units are equipped with features that send you email or SMS alerts in case of a security breach. A smartphone app also comes with a GPS tracking feature that can be extremely useful if your car is stolen. Whether it’s an aftermarket system or a built-in add-on module, however, it will be much more expensive than the standard bog system.

Smartcar alarm manufacturers understand that we live in an advanced digital age and there are bound to be tech-savvy thieves waiting for us.

That’s why many offer a system with encrypted transmission. Encrypted transmission simply means that the signals your remote sends to your alarm system can only be decoded by the system and no other device. In most cases, cybercriminals will attempt to intercept the signals sent between your remote and your car alarm system to gain access to your car (no more crowbars needed!). With encrypted transmission, however, the alarm system will be able to recognize what an authentic remote signal is and what a hacker’s signal is, and then block them accordingly.

COMMON CAR ALARM PROBLEMS

There are many common car alarm problems that can drive you up the wall. From your car alarm going off randomly at night to when your car alarm goes off when unlocking it with your key and making the entire supermarket parking lot stare, they can be really annoying. They can even pose a real safety threat if you find yourself with a car alarm that goes off while driving! Here are some of the causes of the most common problems and a few temporary fixes.

YOUR CAR ALARM GOES OFF RANDOMLY

This could be caused by a wide variety of faults in the internal circuit of the alarm console. By random, we mean the alarm goes off even when there’s nothing around. Normally, you can stop the alarm by simply turning on the ignition or sometimes even by unlocking the car.

If that doesn’t work, you can also try turning off the alarm button, located under your steering wheel. However, if that doesn’t solve the problem, you may need to remove the alarm fuse. You’ll need to locate the fuse box, usually located under the steering wheel on pre-installed systems or under the hood in aftermarket systems. Your car manual or kit will give you the exact location of the fuse box. Remove the fuse using tweezers to disable the alarm. If that doesn’t work, your last resort should be to disconnect the negative terminal of the car battery to disable it. This is the last option because it of course means you cannot start the car when the negative terminal is disconnected. If it keeps happening, take it to a garage to have it checked.

ALARM CANNOT BE ACTIVATED AND DEACTIVATED

Sometimes it’s not the alarm itself that is faulty, but the remote control. If the battery inside a car alarm remote starts to run out, it can mean you cannot activate (or more embarrassingly deactivate!) your car alarm.

If you find that you cannot activate or deactivate the alarm using the remote, start by replacing the battery and see if that makes a difference. If not, there could be more of a problem with the sensor that connects the two. This will likely require more professional help and you should have it checked at a garage.

CAR ALARM BATTERY PROBLEMS

A car battery can cause all sorts of problems with your car alarm, mainly the fact that your car alarm will go off randomly. In addition to the internal circuit causing problems, if your car alarm goes off in the middle of the night, an old battery is often the issue. Car alarms are actually designed to go off if the battery is too low to alert you to the fact that it is dying. It may not be an accident if the alarm goes off, but as a warning sign that something is wrong with your battery. This will likely happen after about 5 years of using the battery.

The alarm going off randomly when you’re not using the car can also indicate that the battery is dying or that the connections have corroded. This would mean they are sending inconsistent power signals throughout the vehicle.

A corroded or faulty battery can also cause you problems, even if it is fully charged. It can still send the wrong signals to the car alarm. Rusty and worn terminals essentially send the same signals as a dying or discharged battery to the car’s systems. This doesn’t just mean the car alarm might malfunction, but all the electrical systems in your car. The car alarm going off could be a sign that something more serious is going on under your car’s hood.

Many drivers have faced the situation where the engine was impossible to start due to a dead battery. This often happens when it’s freezing cold outside or, for example, when you forgot to turn off the exterior lights or the car radio. The problem of starting the vehicle can be solved by connecting your battery to the battery of another vehicle. For this, you will need a set of jumper cables. In this article, we explain how to properly connect the jumper cables. Let’s find out the correct order of steps.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

• Make sure there are no children near the area where the procedure will be performed. If necessary, move them to a safe distance.
• Read the vehicle’s manual carefully. Some models cannot be jump-started.
• When performing the work, wear rubber gloves and protective glasses. Do not touch the terminals and metal parts of the car body with bare hands when they are live.

WHICH VEHICLES ARE UNSUITABLE FOR JUMP STARTING

• Never start a car with another car whose on-board voltage is higher or lower than your car’s. For example, if your vehicle is equipped with a 12 V battery, it should not be connected to a 24 V or 6 V battery, to avoid overvoltages.
• It is not advisable to connect vehicles with gasoline and diesel engines because their batteries have different cold cranking amps, therefore the process will be either ineffective or risk damaging the electronic devices.
• It is forbidden to jump-start a car with faulty wiring, a leaking battery, or other defects. Therefore, for example, if your battery has become discharged due to long unsuccessful attempts to start the engine, seek professional help.
• It is not advisable to connect to a vehicle whose battery is not fully charged.

HOW TO FIND OUT IF IT IS SAFE TO JUMP START YOUR VEHICLE?

Make sure your car is in good working order. For this purpose:

16 STEPS FOR PROPERLY JUMPING YOUR CAR

1. Park the vehicles facing each other at a distance of 45 to 50 cm between them – so that the length of the cables is sufficient to connect them. Caution: the vehicles must not contact each other in any way.
2. In cars with automatic transmission, set the gear selector to “Park” mode, in those with manual transmission – to “Neutral”.
3. Make sure to stop the donor vehicle’s engine.
4. Engage the parking brake on both vehicles.
5. Remove the keys from the ignition switches of the cars and open the doors of the car with the dead battery. Otherwise, when voltage is supplied, the car’s anti-theft system may trigger and lock the doors.
6. Open the hood. Find the battery. Its exact location is specified in the vehicle’s manual.
7. Inspect the battery. Find two terminals. The positive is usually the larger one and marked as “POS” or “+”, and the negative – as “NEG” or “-“. The positive terminal is often red in color, negative – black. When connecting the jumper cables, it is very important not to mix up the terminals.
8. If necessary, clean dirt and oxides from the terminals with a cloth or a wire brush.
9. Look at the set of jumper wires. The kit should include two cables. One of them is usually red and the second is black. Note that the cables themselves may be a different color but the alligator clips at their ends are almost always red and black. This color coding helps avoid errors when connecting the wires.
10. Connect the cables in the following order:
    • a red clip – to the positive terminal of the dead battery;
    • the second red clip – to the positive terminal of the donor car;
    • a black clip – to the negative terminal of the battery on the donor car;
    • the second black clip – to an unpainted metal part of the vehicle with the dead battery. This could be a nut or bolt on the engine block.
11. Make sure the cables do not touch the moving parts of the engine.
12. Start the donor car’s engine and let it run for 10 to 20 minutes. Stop the engine.
13. Try to start the engine of the car with the dead battery. If you succeed, do not turn off the engine for 10 to 20 minutes. This duration should be enough to recharge the battery a bit.
14. If the car does not start, repeat the procedure: start the donor car’s engine and let it run for a while, stop it, and try to start the other vehicle. Caution: do not engage the starter of the car being jump-started while the donor car’s engine is running: this can cause its alternator to fail.
15. If the start was successful, disconnect the cables in the reverse order:
    • black clip – from the negative terminal of the donor car;
    • the second red clip – from the positive terminal of the donor car;
    • red clip – from the positive terminal of the donor car;
    • red clip – from the positive terminal of the battery that was dead.
16. If, after several attempts, you cannot start the engine, visit a garage for help: your battery may be completely depleted and it will be necessary to restore or replace it, or some other vehicle systems may be faulty. In particular, the engine may not start if the following components are defective:
    • fuses;
    • input;
    • ignition switch.

HOW TO JUMP START A CAR WITHOUT ANOTHER CAR?

To start a vehicle, you can use a portable jump-starting device – a jump starter. It operates based on lithium polymer batteries and, therefore, despite its compact size, it provides fairly high starting amps. You can buy such a device if, for example, your vehicle is used in difficult conditions, especially in regions with cold winters.

The device must be directly connected to the battery terminals. During this operation, it is also very important to observe the polarity. For more information on how to properly connect the jumper cables, carefully read the jump starter’s manual.

Usually, it is necessary to follow these steps:

1. Connect the red cable provided with the device to the positive terminal of the battery.
2. Connect the black cable to the negative terminal of the dead battery.
3. Insert the connectors from the other ends of the cables into the corresponding outlets of the portable jump-starting device.
4. Select the desired mode of the jump starter and turn on the device.
5. Start the engine.

Conclusion

A dead battery is a problem that even experienced drivers can encounter. It’s good that it can be solved by a relatively simple method – jump-starting. All you need is a set of jumper cables and another battery. By following all the advice above, you can easily jump-start a car with another battery, even if you became a driver not so long ago.

Automobiles have come a long way since the first single-cylinder engines used in the 1880s and the more complex and sophisticated they have become and the smarter and more convenient their features are, the more problems we can have. To keep us informed about what is precisely happening under the hood of our cars and the technical systems that ensure the proper functioning of these modern miracles, our dashboards now have more warning icons than the Millennium Falcon and can leave us perplexed, confused, and sometimes even anxious.

There is almost nothing worse than seeing a red light suddenly come on while you are driving without having any idea what it means and the urgency of the problem. With our accessible guide to the most common car dashboard warning symbols and indicators, you will know exactly the meaning of each warning signal.

THE COLOR OF WARNING ICONS

Generally speaking, the color of a symbol is related to the urgency of solving the problem and works on the basis of traffic lights.

If the light is green, it often means there is no problem and a function has simply been activated (for example, the lights or turn signals are always green).

When a symbol with a yellow light appears, something has definitely gone wrong, but it does not need to be fixed immediately (although it should certainly be resolved as soon as you have the opportunity). The windshield washer fluid level is a good example of this. When this level is too low, the windshield wipers cannot function properly. This will not prevent you from driving right away, but could be dangerous in the near future.

This of course means that when the red light comes on, something is really wrong and will affect or is already affecting the car’s fundamental functions.

	Oil Pressure Warning. This image of an old-fashioned oil can lets you know that there is a problem with your car’s oil pressure system. You may be low on oil or your oil pump may not be pumping enough fluid to effectively lubricate your car’s internal surfaces. If this is not fixed quickly, you will soon find that your engine begins to wear out and this could be very costly. You must: Check the oil level and pressure.
	Tire Pressure Warning Light. This dashboard warning signal tells you that the pressure in one or more of your tires is too low and needs to be addressed. Also known as the TPMS symbol, it is a fairly important icon. Driving with low tire pressure can be extremely dangerous as it greatly increases the likelihood of a tire bursting while you are driving, meaning you could lose control of your vehicle and put yourself in danger. Even if this worst-case scenario does not happen, low tire pressure also negatively impacts fuel consumption and causes your tires to wear out too quickly. Putting a little more air in those tires could save you a lot of money in the long run. You must: Check the pressure of all your tires and increase it if necessary (it should normally be between 30 and 35 psi). Cold weather can cause pressure to drop, so be sure to check regularly.
	Engine Temperature Warning. When this symbol appears on your dashboard, it means your engine has overheated. A common cause of this is a lack or problem with the coolant (antifreeze) in your engine, but there may be other reasons such as a broken water pump or issues with your car’s radiator. It is very important to address this issue immediately, as an overheated engine could lead to warping of the pistons and cylinders or cracking of the engine block, causing serious damage. You must: Make sure you have enough coolant and if the problem persists, consult an expert.
	Traction Control Light. If your car’s anti-skid system is activated, you will see this symbol on the dashboard. The traction control system uses the anti-lock braking system to determine if any of your wheels are spinning faster than the others. It will apply the brakes if it detects a wheel is spinning and you will have traction again. It is really useful for driving in rain or snow and it can indicate to you that road conditions are more dangerous than you think and you should consider slowing down.
	Anti-lock Brake Warning Light. This may look like a warning symbol that requires you to go to the gym more often, but it actually tells you that you have a problem with your anti-lock brakes. As we know, anti-lock brakes work to keep your car safely in contact with the road, so if there is a problem with the system, it is important to get to the bottom of it as soon as possible (or all that hard work on your abs will have been for nothing). It is worth keeping in mind that whenever you start your vehicle, the system performs a self-check and may light up for a few seconds. If it goes away immediately, however, you are good to go. You should: Have your system checked by an expert if the light is persistent.
	Traction Control Malfunction. This warning icon indicates that your vehicle’s traction control system may have a broken or damaged sensor or another issue. In some cars, the same control module operates the anti-lock brakes and the traction control system, so the light sometimes comes on if there is a problem with your ABS. You should: Once again, have it checked by an expert as it may need to be recalibrated.
	Engine Warning. Also known as the “check engine light,” when this symbol lights up on your dashboard, it is usually accompanied by a sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach. The light could be a minor issue, such as a faulty gas cap, or it could mean something more serious, like a misfiring engine. In many cases, it means you will be visiting the car dealership to fix the issue and resolve the problem quickly. You should: When you see the light, the best thing to do is to stop the car, pull over to the side of the road, and check your gas cap and other systems. If the light is flashing, you absolutely must stop driving. In most vehicles, the flashing check engine light lets you know that the problem is relatively serious and is going to cause fairly severe damage if you try to bury your head in the sand and ignore it.
	Battery Alert. From this warning symbol, we can tell that there is a problem with the car’s charging system. The symbol can be misleading, however, as the problem may not be coming from your battery. It could mean that the battery cable is loose or damaged, but it could also indicate that your alternator belt is broken. There are telltale signs if it is your battery: the clock display may start to fade and the headlights may start to dim. If you wait too long, your vehicle may shut down completely or refuse to start – very frustrating before the morning commute! It is best not to ignore it. You must: Make sure your battery is fully charged.
	Low Fuel Indicator. This is a fairly obvious symbol that most drivers are familiar with and it simply means that you are running low on fuel and need to refill. While it may seem like an adventurous idea to see if you can make it home without refueling, it is not a good idea if you have a long way to go. Who knows what will happen with the weather or traffic, so do yourself a favor and fill up as soon as possible. You should: Find the nearest garage or gas station. Simple!
	Airbag Indicator. This symbol lets you know that there is a problem with your airbags, one of them, or the system as a whole. The airbags in your car protect you in the event of an accident and it is imperative that you resolve this issue as soon as possible. Do not wait to find out what the problem is! You must: Check your airbags or take the car to a specialist who can help you resolve the issue.
	Fog Light Indicator. If you are navigating through difficult weather conditions and using your fog lights, you will see this symbol. It is important to note, however, that fog lights should only be used if your visibility is less than 100 meters, otherwise they could blind other road users and pose a hazard. You should: Check if you need to use your fog lights and if you do not, turn them off.
Why Engine Misfires Are Dangerous and How to Avoid Them An engine misfire is a malfunction where one or more of its cylinders do not work. This causes excessive wear and overheating of the engine and leads to scratches on the surfaces of the pistons and cylinders. In the following, we will explain how to recognize this problem and how to solve it. FIVE SIGNS OF MALFUNCTION The engine shakes at idle. Sometimes, the vibrations are so strong that you can feel them in the steering wheel, gear lever, and body. Additionally, the engine’s idle speed is unstable. Reduced engine power. You can particularly notice malfunctions in the engine’s operation when you press the accelerator pedal, as well as jerking during acceleration. The “Check Engine” light may come on on the dashboard. Carbon deposits on the spark plugs and cracks in the high-tension wires. These are usually easy to spot during parts inspection. Unusual noises when the engine is running. For example, intermittent sounds may be heard instead of a regular hum. Increased fuel consumption. This is usually caused by issues with the fuel mixing and ignition processes. THREE CAUSES OF ENGINE MISFIRE Problems in the ignition system. Faulty spark plugs, broken coils, high-tension wires, or incorrect settings can cause ignition that is too early or too late, which in turn disrupts the combustion process of the air-fuel mixture and leads to engine malfunction. Disruption in fuel supply and mixing processes. Dirty fuel injectors and malfunctioning solenoid valves, clogged air filter, leaks in the intake or fuel supply systems, or in the brake booster can cause a lean or rich air/fuel mixture, which affects combustion efficiency. Failure of the mass air flow sensor, throttle position sensor, or idle air control valve has similar consequences. Leakage from the combustion chamber. This is usually caused by burnt valves, pistons, head gasket, and scratches on the cylinder surface. It can also be caused by incorrect valve adjustment, faulty lifters or hydraulic lifters, or incorrect valve timing. SIX TIPS Replace consumables on time. For example, air filters should be replaced every 10,000 to 15,000 km. Depending on the type, spark plugs last between 30,000 and 100,000 km, and fuel injectors from 100,000 to 120,000 km. Clean fuel injectors regularly, about once a year. To do this, add a special additive to the fuel. In case of heavy soiling, you should go to a service station. Use only high-quality engine oil. Engine wear products can cause engine overheating, piston ring sticking, and component destruction. It is recommended to change the lubricant and oil filter every 10,000 to 15,000 km. Use high-quality fuel. This will prevent carbon buildup on the surfaces of engine components. Let the engine run at the highest RPM from time to time. This will briefly increase the temperature in the combustion chambers to 500°C and clean the spark plug tips of deposits. When maintaining the engine, tighten all threaded connections with the torque specified in the vehicle’s technical documentation. This will ensure the tightness of all joints and the integrity of the sealing elements. Conclusion An engine misfire not only affects its performance but is also a symptom of serious defects. That is why it is important to perform a thorough engine diagnosis at the first signs of a problem and repair the fault as quickly as possible. Timely engine maintenance ensures long and trouble-free operation. What should I do if the key is stuck in the ignition switch You may have encountered a situation where, before leaving on a trip, you realize that the key won’t turn in the ignition switch. Sometimes, you manage to turn it after all, but when you arrive at your destination, you can’t remove it from the switch. In this article, we look at the reasons why it gets stuck and suggest the simplest methods to solve the problem. 1 10 Reasons Why the Ignition Key Won’t Come Out of the Ignition Switch 1.1 Your Steering Wheel is Locked 1.2 The Key is Deformed 1.3 The Door Lock is Frozen 1.4 The Car Battery is Flat 1.5 The Key Teeth are Worn 1.6 The Switch Cylinder is Defective 1.7 The Switch Cylinder and Key are Dirty 1.8 Wrong Gear Selection 1.9 The Key Hasn’t Been Put in the Proper Position 1.10 The Component is Broken 10 REASONS WHY THE IGNITION KEY WON’T COME OUT OF THE IGNITION SWITCH YOUR STEERING WHEEL IS LOCKED Almost all modern cars are equipped with an anti-theft protection system. In some cases, it locks the steering wheel and the ignition switch to prevent intruders from driving your car. The lock is triggered when you turn the steering wheel without a key in the ignition switch, or when you try to use another key or a very worn key. Sometimes the problem is caused by an attempt to turn a key that is not fully inserted into the cylinder. Additionally, the protection system can be triggered when the car’s wheels are fully turned to one side, for example when you park on a steep slope, or if the front wheels are resting against the curb or another obstacle. Usually, when the locking function is activated, you can hear a distinctive click and cannot remove the key from the ignition switch at all. What to do: Gently turn the steering wheel from side to side while trying to turn the key in the switch. This will help unlock the steering wheel. Do not pull too hard on the key to avoid breaking it. THE KEY IS DEFORMED If you carry it in your pocket or wallet, or use it for other purposes, it can bend. Sometimes this means the key won’t turn, won’t come out of the ignition, or can’t even be inserted. What to do: Have you noticed that your key is bent? Do not try to use it, to avoid damaging the switch cylinder. Start the car with a spare ignition key. If you don’t have one, contact an automotive locksmith. Their specialists will restore the shape of the old key in no time or make a copy. If you have inserted a bent key into the ignition switch and it is stuck there, seek professional help to have it removed. THE DOOR LOCK IS FROZEN This can happen if it’s cold outside and water has accumulated in the lock cylinder. What to do: If your car has been parked outside in freezing cold or in an unheated room for a long time and you think the lock has frozen, try to thaw it. To do this, warm your key using a lighter or a candle and insert it into the lock. Repeat this step several times. You can also use a special lock de-icer. To avoid further problems, ensure stable operation of the ventilation system. Before storing your car long-term, ventilate the interior to reduce the temperature inside and prevent condensation. THE CAR BATTERY IS FLAT In some cars, when the battery is discharged, the key is locked in the ignition switch. What to do: Turn on the headlights. If the lights don’t come on, the problem is likely the battery. Using a voltmeter, measure the voltage across the car battery terminals. If it is less than 11.7 V, the battery is completely discharged and you will probably need to replace or restore it. If you don’t have a multimeter, try to restart the car. If it works, the problem is with the battery. Otherwise, the failure is of another nature. THE KEY TEETH ARE WORN Poor quality products made from non-durable materials suffer from abrasive wear quite quickly. The key becomes loose in the switch and cannot interact properly with the moving parts of the ignition switch cylinder. What to do: Compare the key you are using with the spare key. If you see signs of wear, replace it. If the old key is stuck in the ignition switch, try gently turning it back and forth and shaking it in and out. You will likely succeed in finding the movement that activates the mechanism. THE SWITCH CYLINDER IS DEFECTIVE It also wears out over time. This can happen even faster due to the habit of many drivers attaching heavy keychains and other ornaments to their keys. When the car is moving, they create an additional load on the mechanism’s parts. What to do: If you manage to remove the key from the ignition switch, use the spare key. If it also gets stuck, the switch cylinder is worn out. Contact a garage to have it replaced. THE SWITCH CYLINDER AND KEY ARE DIRTY Using the wrong lubricant leads to a buildup of dirt inside the mechanism and can cause it to stick over time. Usually, the key’s notches get dirty if it is used for purposes other than intended, for example, to tear packaging tape when opening packages. What to do: To clean the switch, use WD-40 or another penetrating oil by spraying it directly into the keyhole. If possible, blow out the cylinder with compressed air. After blowing out and cleaning the switch, lubricate it. Wipe the key with a lint-free cloth soaked in WD-40, alcohol, or solvent. WRONG GEAR SELECTION In cars with automatic transmission, the key will be locked in the ignition switch until you put the selector lever in Park. To unlock the switch in manual transmission vehicles, the gear shift lever must be in neutral. What to do: When parking your car, make sure the automatic transmission selector lever is in the Park position. If it is not, but you have already stopped the car and turned off the engine, press the brake pedal and put the selector lever into the Park position. Try to carefully extract the key. If this is impossible, check if the selector lever can be locked in this position. If you can move it even after the engine is off, take your car to a garage to have the torque converter, cable, and automatic transmission lever and brake pedal lock mechanism checked. If your car is equipped with a manual transmission, press the clutch pedal, put the gear lever in neutral, and retrieve the key from the ignition switch while gently shaking it. THE KEY HASN’T BEEN PUT IN THE PROPER POSITION Sometimes drivers forget to turn the key to the “Lock” position. What to do: Look at the ignition switch. It has several marks corresponding to different modes: “Ignition on”, “Engine start”, “Lock” (or “Park”). Make sure the key is in the “Locked” or “0” position. If necessary, change its position. THE COMPONENT IS BROKEN Applying too much force when trying to turn the key in the ignition switch can cause it to break. It is difficult to extract the part of the key left in the mechanism. Action: Try to remove the fragment using a special extractor. If you do not have such a tool, seek professional help. Do not use improvised means to extract the broken tip, as you could damage the cylinder. Conclusion Despite its simple design, the ignition key is a very important element and requires appropriate attention from the driver. A car can only be started if this component is in good working order. If your key is stuck in the ignition switch, follow our advice. How to Repair Car Seats Yourself Tears, rips, and burns in your car seats can make your car’s interior look shabby and worn out. Do your own upholstery with our guide! Having a tear or hole in your car seat upholstery can be incredibly frustrating. Unlike so many other problems related to your car’s aesthetics, nicks in the upholstery don’t just disappear with a simple wipe or easy replacement. They can make your car’s interior look poorly maintained and unkempt. Worse still, the longer they stay there, the more likely they are to get worse. A small hole turns into a small tear, which turns into a rip, which becomes a gaping giant gash with foam escaping that you can’t take your eyes off! Taking your car to a garage to have the upholstery repaired or changed can be very expensive, but it’s also something you can do yourself. It’s not always easy to repair or replace car covers and you may need tools to do it, but with a little patience and our comprehensive guide, you can certainly do it. There are a variety of options for renewing the upholstery and there is a wide range of replacement kits available to completely replace car seats or materials that will help correct problems. Whatever type of material your car seats are made of and whatever the problem, we have some ideas and tips to get rid of your tears and make your car look factory-fresh again. TYPES OF UPHOLSTERY Before you can repair your car seat cover, it’s important to know what type of material you’re dealing with, as they all have different characteristics and require several different approaches. Car seats are usually covered with one of the following materials. Nylon is one of the most common types of automotive upholstery and is known for its durability and ability to withstand heavy use. Nylon is quite porous and will pick up dirt and debris every time you drive your car, so even without tears, you might decide to replace your nylon sooner. Polyester is another popular choice for automotive upholstery and it’s designed to look like suede. This soft fabric is quite comfortable but can tear and rip easily. Vinyl has been a popular upholstery choice for a long time due to its strength and ease of cleaning. If it tears or a hole appears, it can be a bit more difficult to repair. It may look like leather, but it’s a smart, animal-friendly imposter: faux leather upholstery is a popular choice for luxury cars, and it’s relatively easy to keep clean, strong, and scratch-resistant. Leather seats are often a sign of a high-end luxury car. Leather upholstery requires special maintenance and cleaning products to keep it looking sharp, but it’s extremely durable and strong. However, it is much more difficult to repair than other, cheaper materials. Repairs on leather, especially new or light-colored leather, can also be very visible if not done correctly. COMMON UPHOLSTERY PROBLEMS Some of the most common problems people see with car seats are tears or rips. These can come from clothing catching on the seat or luggage or other objects cutting into it with hard or sharp edges. Frayed seat edges or seams are also a common problem and mainly come from age alone. Seams can also become unstitched, although this is unlikely. Burns, often caused by cigarettes, can also damage the surface of your seats. There can also be problems with car seat padding. If there is a tear deep enough, the padding can come out, or it can simply become too compressed and no longer supportive. Specifically for leather or vinyl, the seat may start to “crack” or show imperfections, such as small scratches. All these different problems will need to be dealt with in a different way, TOOLS NEEDED The tools you’ll need of course differ depending on what needs to be repaired, but these are tools you might find useful for general repairs or for car upholstery maintenance. Clean cloth(s) Canvas patches serving as seat back support Fine or medium sandpaper Leather repair kit, paints, or pre/post treatment solutions (depending on the type of repair) Tweezers Scouring pads Putty knife Rubbing alcohol Scissors REPAIRING MINOR ISSUES To start, let’s address some of the most common minor problems such as tears and rips. Before starting however, it’s important to recognize that if you do it yourself, a repaired seat tear will never be completely unnoticeable. If you want it to look like new, you’ll need to take it to a professional upholstery shop. SMALL HOLES, TEARS, RIPS, OR BURNS IN CLOTH/FABRIC CAR SEATS The best way to repair fabric seats is usually to use a patch on the seat cover to hide this type of wear and support the remaining seat fabric. You’ll want to try to find a patch that not only matches the color of the seat you’re working on, but also the type or pattern, and find a material that has the necessary strength to handle regular use. It’s worth asking for recommendations at a local garage or checking online if you can find a specific fabric for this type of repair. You’ll need to cut the fabric to match the size of the hole in the fabric or the length of the tear before applying it to the seat. It should comfortably cover the hole or tear, but it’s up to you to determine how much excess material will join the current seat fabric. This can then be placed directly over the hole or small tear and, hopefully, blend seamlessly into the seat cover. You have two options for applying the patch: use an adhesive patch or sew or stitch the material directly onto the seat. Most patches can be attached using contact adhesive, usually available as a spray. You can also use heat (from an iron or heat gun) to ensure a strong bond on the material. Some people worry that if they don’t sew it, it won’t be as effective, but the adhesive works just as well. TEARS IN CLOTH/FABRIC SEATS For a tear or rip more than a few inches in diameter, a patch won’t be suitable; it will leave the seat ugly and mismatched. Professional repair is always the best bet from an aesthetic standpoint in this situation, but there are DIY options available, the first of which is to re-stitch the tear. Using a curved needle and thread, hold the two sides of the torn fabric together and stitch the tear using an X-stitch from top to bottom. Over this, you’re going to apply a larger patch, so that initial X-stitch will hold the sides together under the patch. From there, it’s very similar to the process described above. Choose a patch that matches the seat cover fabric and use an adhesive to cover the seams. Here, you won’t need to use too much adhesive; it’s the stitching that holds the seat together and not the glue. TEARS IN LEATHER, FAUX LEATHER, OR VINYL Tears on leather are slightly more delicate than tears on fabric seats, mainly because the material is different and requires much different treatment. When the seat fabric splits and it’s not right against the seams, we’re in a good position because we have access to the back of both sides of the tear. Our solution is going to be to glue a piece of fabric (not leather, just ordinary fabric) to the back so that the two sides come together, and any gap can be filled with a filler specially designed for leather seats. The first step is to ensure that the fabric, whether it’s leather, vinyl, or faux leather, is not connected to any seat padding or any other material that might be used to secure it; we just want to be able to access the fabric itself. If it is connected, you may need to use a piece of plastic or a knife to release the material from the padding, but be sure to do so carefully. Next, apply adhesive to the patch. You won’t need to use much here, but enough to ensure it sticks on both sides. Slide it behind the seat cover and make sure it touches both sides. Take the two sides of the tear and hold the gap closed while the glue dries (this isn’t as easy as it sounds). It’s important to use an appropriate patch fabric. A piece of strong suede or duck cloth used for uniforms works well. The critical factor for the woven fabric is that it doesn’t stretch or change shape when subjected to stress, i.e., when you sit on it! If the color closely matches the seat, that’s a bonus. Next, you need to apply a weight or constant pressure to the area so that the patch adheres effectively to the adhesive, as the glue can take some time to dry. This can be done using any type of weight or a pressure clamp to hold it in place. The surface of the leather is always curved, due to the padding pushing it up, so you need to press hard enough to flatten the curve. If the tear is quite large, be sure to use a weight large enough to cover almost the entire space. If you don’t, one side would be overpowered and that could mean the gap tightens and worsens further. If possible, use clamps to reduce the gap while applying pressure. As for the adhesive you use, it’s best to look for a specific fabric adhesive. We’ll come to a few good brands for this later. If the leather is thick, once the gap is closed, you can use a filler material to bring it back to an even surface. Various fillers will work and see below again for some product recommendations. The main requirements are that it is flexible, non-shrinking, and can be colored or painted in some way. CRACKS, CREASES, AND HOLES IN LEATHER OR VINYL Repairing cracks and creases in leather and vinyl is also a bit more complicated than dealing with fabric seats. However, there are many more products that can help in this process, so don’t be discouraged! The first step is to ensure the seats are perfectly clean. Using specific leather seat cleaning products will ensure that any fillers or sealants used will truly adhere and apply well to the surface of the leather seats. For small cracks, a temporary solution may simply be to use a leather color restorer or restoration product. These are widely available and will simply add color to the faded leather. They won’t change the surface but will give the appearance of new leather. This is only a very short-term solution, however. For small holes, a leather and vinyl compound or coating can be used to fill the void. These can then be painted to blend into the leather seat (although for this to be effective, the entire seat really needs to be coated). Some are heat-activated, meaning you’ll need something to heat the liquid. Using a small trowel or spatula, you can insert and spread the filler into the holes. You need to do this in stages and layers to create the best finish and the strongest repair. Layer by layer, slowly fill the hole until it is flush with the surrounding leather. Feel the surface with your fingers to make sure it’s truly flat and level. Different products will need to be applied in different ways, so check the instructions provided with each product. Once you’re satisfied that the layer is relatively flush with the rest of the seat, For anything more than discoloration and more severe cracks, heavier repairs are needed. Use masking tape to cover any parts of the seat that are not leather, for example the plastic bracket used to adjust the seat tilt angle or any fabric under the leather, then use fine sandpaper to level the existing damaged leather and remove any loose or compromised leather, creating a uniform, flat surface. There may be a lot of peaks and valleys or leather that is lost, but it’s important that the surface is as flat as possible by sanding or cutting off these protruding pieces. If we get the surface as even as possible, we won’t need to use as much filler and it will look much better and last much longer. As with small holes, for our cracks, we’re going to use a leather or vinyl filler. Many of these are specially designed to reduce the appearance of cracks and can take about 20 to 30 minutes to dry and seal. They are often not heat-activated, but a heat gun can of course speed up the process. Spread the filler or putty evenly over the cracks and try to ensure it blends seamlessly with the surface, wiping off any excess. Apply only a small amount at a time using a spatula and your fingers in tight areas and be sure not to overdo it. Once you’re satisfied that the gaps have been filled as much as possible and the seat looks relatively even, sand lightly to remove any tiny ridges or uneven surfaces created by the filling. You can repeat this as many times as you like to get the best surface. If cracks have completely worn through the seat, especially on the seat’s curvature, it may need to be re-stitched and replaced. There are limits to what you can do with products designed to repair small cracks, but these can still be smoothed using fillers and painted to match. The end result won’t be perfect, but will be cosmetically and aesthetically better than before and it can strengthen the area to prevent further damage. PAINTING LEATHER Once the cracks and holes have been repaired, it’s time to paint. Use a topcoat color selector to help you choose a shade to paint the seat. There are a variety of products to do this, but Global Smart Repairs offers a particularly good range to help you mix and match/find the right color. Once you’ve selected your color, use a spray gun to paint the entire seat, not just the affected area. This will ensure it’s not obvious that an area has been repaired. Apply the paint evenly and not too thickly, keeping the air spray gun close to the surface so that the paint is smooth and still wet when it touches the surface. You should aim to find a good distance and keep moving while you paint, aiming for a light but adequate coating. The paint must be specially designed for leather and normal water-based paint won’t cut it. Water-based paints have poor durability and lack chemical and UV resistance properties, as specific leather paints should. Once you’re satisfied with the paint job, you can apply a protective coating to further increase durability. LEATHER REPAIR KITS When it comes to leather repair, many kits are available with Exit mobile version