Coolant Temperature Sensor: Testing and Troubleshooting

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In a car with an internal combustion engine, the engine typically runs hot. This is a natural consequence of using rapid fuel explosions mixed with air to create the locomotion that drives the wheels. This in turn creates the need to cool the engine, and that’s where the engine cooling system comes into play. The most critical part of this system is the coolant. In the past, it was water, sometimes mixed with antifreeze in winter to prevent the engine block from becoming an ice engine block. With advances in technology, not only has plain water been abandoned as the main coolant, but sensors to determine the coolant temperature have also been developed.

WHAT IS A COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR?

Coolant temperature sensors were developed to determine the engine’s operating temperature. In short, the sensor delivers a small charge that the engine control unit can read. This charge is the result of voltage passing through the sensor’s internal resistance, the latter decreasing as the temperature increases and vice versa. Measuring the effect of the lowered or increased resistance allows the ECU to determine the measured temperature. It essentially serves the same function as an old thermometer but uses resistance instead of mercury to determine the temperature.

SYMPTOMS OF A FAULTY ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

Symptoms of a faulty engine coolant temperature sensor

Several issues indicate that the coolant temperature sensor is damaged. Among the most common are increased fuel consumption, difficult engine starts, and higher idle speeds. Other indicators may include black smoke coming from the exhaust pipe and cooling fans that do not activate. Often, the “Check Engine” light comes on. These problems are caused by incorrect readings, which lead the fuel system to inject inappropriate amounts of fuel and the engine running too hot because the cooling system is not prompted to engage by the control unit. In these cases, a faulty coolant temperature sensor can prevent a car from starting at all.

TROUBLESHOOTING A DEFECTIVE SENSOR

There are several ways to test a faulty coolant temperature sensor. Generally, the OBD II error codes from the ECU will be the first conclusive evidence indicating a faulty coolant temperature sensor. The codes associated with this range are from P0115 to P0119. If you see any of these codes or suspect that the coolant sensor is the source of your problems, proceed as follows:

  • iLocate the sensor. By necessity, the sensor is usually located near the front of the engine. The radiator housing or thermostat housing is a good place to look. Use a light if necessary. If you cannot find the sensor, consult your vehicle’s technical documentation.
  • iInspect the wiring. If there are issues with the electrical connections, the solution may be as simple as plugging them in correctly. If the connector is not properly inserted or if the cables and wires are broken or corroded, that is likely the cause of the problem.
  • iUse a multimeter to check the sensor’s wiring harness. To do this, remove the cables connected to the sensor. Then turn the ignition key without starting the engine. Connect the multimeter’s red lead to terminal two and ground it with the black one. A value of up to 5 volts indicates there is no problem on this side.
  • iUse an ohmmeter to check the sensor. Disconnect the sensor wiring when the ignition is off. Attach the ohmmeter to the sensor terminals. Measure the resistance and note it. Reconnect the wiring. Run the engine for about two minutes, then turn it off again. Now, disconnect everything as before and measure the resistance. Compare this reading to that of a cold engine. The difference should be at least 200 ohms. If not, the sensor is not functioning properly.
  • iUse a multimeter to check the sensor. Proceed as with the ohmmeter and attach it to the sensor with the ignition off. Note the voltage. It is typically around 5 volts. Reconnect the sensor and run the engine for about two minutes before turning it off. Disconnect everything and measure the voltage again. It should be as low as 0.25 volts after the engine has warmed up. No change in voltage indicates a faulty coolant sensor.

In case you cannot start your engine, you can simulate hot and cold readings by immersing the sensor in hot and cold water. Ensure the sensor is sufficiently waterproof and avoid immersing the terminals. Use cold and barely boiling water to take your readings. Make sure your vehicle is off and the key is not in the ignition when you remove the sensor. This will prevent you from getting an electric shock.

More precise figures on the voltages and resistances to expect from your coolant temperature sensor can be found in the technical documentation or online. Refer to these numbers if you are unsure about the values received.

REPLACING A DEFECTIVE SENSOR

Replacing a defective sensor

Unfortunately, a faulty coolant temperature sensor cannot really be repaired, and you need to buy a new one. Fortunately, they are not particularly expensive. The replacement process is quite straightforward and can be done at home:

  • iLocate the old sensor. If you have already tested to see if it was faulty, then you already know the water temperature sensor location. Otherwise, follow step 1 of the troubleshooting section.
  • iDisconnect the old sensor. Carefully unplug the connector.
  • iLoosen and remove the old sensor. This requires the appropriate tools to unscrew the device. Use a deep socket ratchet to turn it counterclockwise before unscrewing it by hand.
  • iInstall the new sensor. Clean the area and screw in the new sensor with the appropriate tool.
  • iConnect the new sensor. Plug in the previously detached connector.
  • iTest the sensor. Start the engine and monitor the temperature gauge on the dashboard.

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